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Thought I'd drop a quick message to the group on the solution to my tweeter problem. The replacement K-105 tweeter arrived this morning. The first thing I did was put a meter across the terminals, read 3.3 ohms, good enough for me! Took my time, so it was installed in about 5 mins and playing a couple of mins latter. It sounds perfect, just like the one it replaced. I was surprised how replacing 1 tweeter put the whole system back in shape. I returned all the system settings back to where they were before discovering the damaged tweeter and it sounds as good if not better. I am thinking I might check out the drivers of the SF-1s I'm using for rear speakers. It never ends!!! Thanks to all who helped and guided me towards the best solution.

Think I found one, and its even fairly close to Dublin, VA https://www.ebay.com/itm/386554032549?epid=1104735114&itmmeta=01HPSQV4JGKJHGRB3950T2AYYC&hash=item5a006a71a5:g:B2oAAOSwMKxllIni&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwKgKnneF%2BGcaCkEqtPqjEo1jCpT1eDns2Iinya6oafm%2F8AFaBP%2FcrxjSm1jraU5BoBI4sZXjGoETTkhIF8J22NZydcRWoKoTJeeYuoDWuWU65doDuNf2pQWdm2dWxvreLx%2Fp3MDGmFlq4ZZOA3sm11CjvldkqKA%2FgJW8Bf1OYXWiRmFG%2Fsnaur8hCuFRXX90u6jE2bzSF5TC2LYHnH94x41CSlUAi5qQAgLICxWnYbyy97HNlp2Ks2IriRHO2Fxh8w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6jJ7Le2Yw

Morning, even at almost 70, your never too old to attend class! I'm associated with a local university and a facility advisor to the school's FSAE racing team. At our shop last night I ran into a fellow advisor who's not just an EE, but also a huge audiophile. After telling him about my quest to find the correct replacement diaphragm and my questions about the differences in ohms between mine and the replacements, we went into a classroom with a board and he explained resistance, inductance and the math. The upshot is, installing an 8 ohm with my current XO would move the crossover point much higher than with the 3.2 ohms. Even if they are 6.2 or 6.4, the crossover point would move higher where frequencies would be lost. He figures the vendors created a universal replacement that will satisfy the general public, figuring they'll never hear the difference. He agreed with jjptkd's suggestion, just find a good exact replacement on Ebay. I can't be the only geek here, any thoughts or comments?

Morning all, I've solved the mystery! Yesterday I disassembled the tweeter again and had a closer look at its internals. Discovered the voice coil has detached from the dome. You can even see a loose string of adhesive between the inside of the dome and the coil. Guess during earlier inspections I was being too careful not to hurt the voice coil and didn't find the problem. Explains why its resistance was the same as the others, but was muted. 001, thanks for the Ebay heads up. The only other question I have is regarding the differences in DC ohms between my tweeters, the replacement diaphragms and Klipsch's specs for the speakers. All my K-105s are around 3.2 DC ohms, Simply's replacements are listed as 6.2 DC ohms, and Klipsch specs them as 8 ohms. A customer service rep at Midwest Speakers claimed mine are nominally 4 ohms and theirs 6.5 ohms, nominal 8 ohms, and wouldn't be compatible with my crossovers. Could there be any problems using the 6.5 DC ohm in my speakers. Even though the other plays as it should, the plan is to replace both just to insure they are identical. Sorry if I'm being wayyyyy OTT, but experience has shown me to always side with possibility of problems. Any members who are motor racing fans, let me tell you how one night we at Electramotive Engineering, the Nissan GTP racing team, blacked out the city of EL Segundo, CA! PG&E were not happy bunnies!

Thanks for the replies! Winglet, I was under the impression Klipsch discontinued parts for the RF-3s. If I'm wrong I'd prefer a genuine Klipsch part. Do you have a contact number for Klipsch parts? For some reason I've never been able to get through on the number I have. Unfortunately, Simply has gone totally internet sales and the only way to communicate with them is through email. (Maybe I'm old fashion, but still prefer dealing directly with another human!) I emailed them asking if there was any difference between my tweeters that meter around 3.2 ohms vs the 6.5 ohms they list on the specs for their replacements. They replied they've sold lots of them and never gotten a complaint. Midwest Speaker also sells a replacement, I wonder if there any difference between the two store's suppliers? I'm a refugee from the auto industry, you would be surprised how many OEMs components are all from the same suppliers. Any additional info or advice would be greatly appreciated! Add: Just got off the phone with Klipsch parts. All parts for the RF-3s and RF-3IIs are discontinued and deleted from their parts lists. So, aftermarket is my only option.

Anybody???

Morning, it sounds like the K-105 tweeter in one of my RF-3s has a problem. I noticed the highs were muted on a track (The Last of the Mohicans, track3) I know should make the horns sing. Checked the connections and swapped the driver into the other speaker and its equally muted there also. As final confirmation I installed the K-105 from my RC-3 center and the sound returned as it should. So, there's a good chance the diaphragm is on its way out and needs replacing. Both tweeters have the original 2001 diaphragms, so it seems like best practice would be to replace both to account for any slight differences. There seems to be no shortage of aftermarket diaphragms, but the replacements offered by Simply Speakers were recommended. Anybody here have any experience with the Simply Speakers diaphragms? And should I replace the furrofluid while I have them apart? Thanks

Currently my RF-3s are only slightly toed in and the stage is centered, but very narrow. I'll have to increase the toe and hear what it does. The inner engineer in me wants and loves dealing with numbers! So I ran several different speaker tilt angles verses the 38" ear height and the 115" speaker distance. I've found a related factor is finding the speaker's is"Sonic Center" and calculating the angle that points it at the listening height. I've read several discussions claiming speakers with the same driver configuration as RF-3s (top tweeter with 2 woofers below) its located either in the center of the space between the bottom of the tweeter and the top of the upper woofer or in the center of the tweeter. BTW, I'm attaching the Vandersteen 1C manual I mentioned in my first post. Might be of interest. 1cmanual.pdf

Morning, hopping the Klipsch gurus here can clue me in! This summer's project was rebuilding my audio cabinet so I could fit a larger screen. Now I'm working on re-positioning my original (bought in 2000!) RF-3 mains. After endlessly playing with position and toe they always sounded endemic. One night I remembered reading raking or tilting them back improves mids, so in desperation I lengthened the front spikes to tilt them back 2.0 degs. I've never experienced such an audio epiphany! The center sweet spot is back, along with the mids, but still good separation. Searching the web I found a few discussions on speaker rake, but none directly dealing with Klipsch. Vandersteen's owners manual for their 1Cs has detailed instructions, including a chart of "Rake" as a function of "Listener Ear Height" vs "Listener Distance To Speaker". But the chart was made for Vandersteens, not sure how applicable it is to Klipschs. Anybody here have any experience With original RF-3s and the optimum, if any, tilt along with any other bits of knowledge. Thanks