Help! My RF-7 horn blew....

[bairda]

After moving my HT receiver, I heard a loud squelch on my front right speaker, an RF-7. It sounded like the sub cable and a speaker cable crossed live and produced the noise. It appears that was enough to blow the horn on my RF-7. I have switched the cable and signal with its mate with the same conclusion. The woofers appear to be ok but no sound from the horn.

My question is, can I replace the horn on the RF-7 myself? I removed the horn from the cabinet and saw that it is connected by solder instead of spade connections. I traced it back to the crossover and see that it is also soldered there. Do I have to replace the crossover and the horn? How much is this going to cost and can I order parts from Klipsch?

Thanks for the help!

-Alex-

[michael hurd]

You can order parts from Klipsch, if you are located in the U.S. 1-800-KLIPSCH

Other countries, check the website here for your distributor contact, or contact your local authorized dealer.

I am sure that if you can't solder, you may be able to find a friend who knows a friend. If there is enough wire slack, you may be able to clip the wires tight to the tabs where they are soldered on the driver, then simply strip the wire back slightly for soldering to the new diaprhagm. With a small wrench, detatch the plastic horn from the driver magnetic assembly.

If you can't obtain just the diapragm, you may have to buy a 'motor' assembly which has a diaprhagm installed in the gap. Simply place your old plastic horn on the studs and install the nuts. Solder tabs to wires, and re-install in the cabinet. The crossover network should be A-ok... they can handle a lot of power.

For the RF3II, the 'motor' assembly for the tweeter horn is around $ 50 + shipping if I recall correctly. I suspect the RF7 to be slightly more.

[bairda]

Thanks for the help!

I hope the fix will be simple and not to much $$$.

Thanks,

-Alex-

[bairda]

Just an update to answer my own question...

Turned out to be the diaphragm needed replacing. Ordered the part (~$100) and replaced it without incident. The nice support folks at Klipsch sent me well illustrated instructions on how to remove the horn, disassemble and replace the diaphragm. There is no soldering involved as the wires into the horn are terminated with pressure clips that hold the bare positive/negative leads (looks much like speaker inputs on the back of the speakers). The hardest part is muscling the protection cap on the back of the horn assembly off of the rest of the horn.

-Alex-