joeydingo Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 When I recently purchased my pair of 3002s and 4000 C2s, I was surprised that all of the fuses in the speakers were 20 amp slow blow, as the web data info on the KP 480s called for a 4 amp fuse----which seemed about right given my limited knowledge on fusing speakers. So my assumption was that the former owner replaced all the fuses with 20 amp as he might have blown a couple of the 4 amp ones and just threw in what he had laying around the house. Seems to me that by the time you blow a 20 amp fuse in even a heavy duty driver, you'd already have melted down the voice coil, so I had planned to replace all the fuses with 4 amp and check how that works---- and possibly work my way up to 5 and 6 amp if blowing fuses. Situation changes yesterday when my brand new KP-4000/KP-480 crossover networks arrive from Klipsch. Each one had a 20 amp fuse in it inserted at the factory. Is a 20 amp fuse really what is called for in these speakers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 funny you should ask, I just addressed this in my Stage Monitors post. Check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I have MWM's that specify 5 for the K43 and MWM's that specify 3 forthe K43. Also my LSI's specify 3 amp. Let's call it a 3 amp FAST blow fuse, never larger. I think I read somewhere that Jim Hunter said 'a K43 driver will successfully protect a 4 amp fuse'. (in other words- don't do that). I have a fuse chart here somewhere, will try to post it. Do your upper cabinets have single or LF/HF fuses- check those too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeydingo Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Great info, thanks!!!! My upper cabinets have separate fuses for both drivers. I think I'll go with 3 amp fast blow all around and see how that works unless someone has a good reason to do otherwise. In looking at some of the fuse holders, there are some that have a small 4 marked on them, some with a small 5 and some with a small 7. Feel like a dumbass that I had them all out and didn't note which position they were in what cabinet before taking them all into the basement to look at them under good light with a magnifying glass. Better to blow a few fuses and work my way up. I like the cost of fuses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I'd stick to 1's for any high horns unless specified. I don't think your numbers 4,5,7 relate to fuse sizes. 7 amp fuse would be several hundred watts! I think LS high horn is 1 1/2. 2 1/2 or 3 probably safe for most bass drivers. I'll keep checking for the chart. AH here it is!!! Sorry I don't have electronically, will keep looking for that. Your bass bins should have 4's. Use 3 for the LF part of the 3002 (or similar) and 1.5 for about any PA HF section. I get mine from Parts Express, they're in bags of 5. Keep em with you on gigs in case you blow one. Get those 20's out of there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeydingo Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Went with 4 amp for the bass bins, 3 amp for the LF in the satellites and 1.5 amp for the horns. And to second Bill Hendrix comments about the combo of the 302/3002 and 484/4000s with the optional crossover network in the 484/4000 bass bins-----these sound great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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