ekbriggs

Buzzing in rears only happens when the sub preout is used from the onkyo. There is no buzzing in any of the other multichannel outs only the sub preout. Would it help to eliminate the problem if i tried running the sub speaker lvl input with the center? Thanks again for the help guys. -Eric

Not too bad at all, its just that when the sub preout cable is connected it runs itself into a loop, like the servo is constantly trying to power on. When the sub preout cable is disconnected the sub powers on normally like it always has. Tried isolators as well but its being quite nasty to me, and it never happened in my Yamaha (i know i have stressed this but i would much rather hear i have a problem in my 30lb 500$ reciever and not my 110lb 2000 dollar sub...have had to deal with Velodyne before and they are not cheap) only when i put the onkyo into the equation. So to answer your question the buzzing from the sub is not bad (but should not be there) and the buzzing thourgh the C/LR/RR speakers is enough to be noticeable. Thus i challenge the gurus...bring on your answers!!! And where is that big hearing guy who always checks these posts...i know he lurks out there somewhere... -Eric

Formica let me start by saying thank you for all of your help. Here is where i stand as of now..the facts as i know them: Buzzing persists after trying 3 different sub cables from onkyo preout to sub in on the FSR-18 (pesky servos). When i disconnect the sub preout on the onkyo and power up the sub everythign is just as it should be. The minute i put my sub cable into the onkyo preout (whether the sub is powered off or on) the buzzing immediately begins. Thus i dont think its: -The sub cable itself as i have tried multiple ones of all prices and links. -The sub as when its turned on but no connection is made to the onkyo, everything is fine. -The power cords as i have tried all of the hookup methods inclusing lengthing the subs power cable into the HTS-2500 as well as moving it and the recievers to multiple locations (same strip, same side of strip, different monster surges, different outlets...) As such is it possible to have a corrupted or noisy onkyo sub preout? This never happened with my RX-V2095 with the same cables, surge, etc...? Thanks again for any of the help that you can give me Formica...now i need to get that guy with the big EARS to answer as i am sure he has encountered this problem at least once with all the subs he owns. Let me hear from you guys as i really want to figure this out. -Eric P.S. I should have a newer Hk AVR-430 or 630 (not sure which one yet) fairly soon so i hope that it sounds as good as the 2095 and the onkyo but has no buzzing in it.

So to all that have helped me already i thank you. Now the newest in the problem. I have disconnected the amp and put it on another surge protector, the sub is still on my monster cable Hts-2500...when the amp is on in dolby digital there is no buzzing sound as long as the sub cable is not plugged into the subwoofer preout on the onkyo. The minute that i put the sub cable in the buzzing immediately starts (only in the center/L and R rear) and the sub humming signal starts up again...just sounds like a humming loop. Pull the cable out and the sound disappears.... 1. Could it be my sub cable has suddendly gone bad? 2. How can i be having a ground loop that never persisted before even with stage 2 power conditioning (although i technically understand it only helps with incoming power from the wall)? if both components are in totally different surges? 3. Is it possible that the onkyo subwoofer preout has gone bad or off the edge? Thanks again to any that can help its not a bad problem but its really agging me...

So I am letting a friend borrow my Rx-V2095 Yamaha reciever and in its place i am using the Onkyo TXDS-575x reciever. When i got all the Rf'3s up and running there appears to be a consistent high pitched humming coming from the center/r left and right. When i go to turn on my big velo (those who own it know that there is a slight humming when you turn it on at first as the servo warms up then its silent) there seems to be a continuous humming signal that never stops. Disconnecting my usual sub connector (which is a nicer monster) the humming in the center/L and R stops.... as does the humming in the sub...it powers up just like normal. Any potential help on what might be causing this would be greatly appreciated...just please tell me it is not my sub (which was working perfectly well when i disconnected my Yamaha). Thanks again for any help. -Eric

Hmm...not a good one but yes i have shot bows for many years now.. (lol) was that a game macro you just hit there Rick?

It seems to me Eric that after careful deduction of the owners manual for the Pa 4000 that 4 channel sound would not be possible. The HK's owneners manual states that the amp was designed for multi room multi source configurations, thus powering a set of rear surounds in a 7.1 system, and sending the remaining mono signal to another seperate source. Second, of the reciever amp configurations that you mentioned it seems that the AVR-630 would be the superior choice given your speaker selection as even though the 430 is only 10 watts less (representing a miniscule overall db amount when cranked), the 630 has a higher overall amperage rating...aka more headroom for those dynamic soundtracks. Even with 75watts per channel this could easily represent 115db continuous output when paired with the high efficiency RF-3's... that is near the painful area. Third my manager is about to take off my head as this email is written so i shall have to get back to you on this particular subject....

Ok here goes to all you HK amp savy people. My questions are as follows: My setup: (4) Klipsch RF-3s, Rc-3 and a Velodyne FSR-18 bringing in the bottow end. Using a pioneer elite dvd, etc.. My questions are on what those with more experience as well as an unbiased mind think would be the best combination for 70% home theater and 30% music: HK AVR-630 HK AVR-430 HK AVR-130 or 230 with a PA 4000 amp taking care of most of the amp work. here a few tchnical questions arise as well. To any that own this amp: 1. Its an 8 channel amp but only has 3 inputs from what i can see. Is there a way to bridge 2 of the channels and have 100 watts going to each of two front speakers and use the remainder for bridging the surrounds or powering at least some of the surrounds? 2. Is there a way to use it to bi-amp the front L/R and center and then power the surrounds with the rear channels of the reciever? 3. Are there any connection methods that would be better that i am missing that those who own this amp would recommend? 4. When these multi channel amps say that you can power the surround sounds of a 7.1 system..is that technically a mono signal sent to two rear speakers or is it a pair of mono signals...? I have repeatedly tried to deciper the PA-4000s owners manuel but the fact that it seems to be setup for more multi-room multi-source configurations i end up with more of a headache than not. Thus i turn to the pros and ask for any and all that have had experience with the amp or are simply better at creative thinking than i am. Thanks to all that reply. -Eric

Anyone have experience with this sub, or even able to find literature on it since adires site link goes to a dead page? If so, give me some info on it...curous as to how a pair would stack up against my single FSR-18 and mate with 2 pairs of RF-3's?

Just remember your saying smilin...patience is a virtue....but you do deserve a break, especially when new toys are coming home. I just tell my mrs. that it has to be thoroughly tested to make sure the unit is not/not going to be any time soon defective. I am sure that you know that there are alot of tests that follow that....

Just remember your saying smilin...patience is a virtue....but you do deserve a break, especially when new toys are coming home. I just tell my mrs. that it has to be thoroughly tested to make sure the unit is not/not going to be any time soon defective. I am sure that you know that there are alot of tests that follow that....

So just give me reassurance that the 505 will make a good sub to cross over my rc-3 at and i am sold...though i think that you already have. Also just out of curiosity : 1. Why do you think that polk used a class AB on the 303 and 404 and switched to the bash on the 505? 2. Aren't the BASH style amps typically class D? Thanks again for the help man. -Eric

Hey Ear can you give me the dish on the newer polk PSW-404 AND PSW-505 subs. Figured i would ask you as i am pretty sure you own one and have demoed both. I can get both at an exceptionally good price (about 40 dollars difference) and am looking to use one to augment my rc-3 to run it full range and let the sub handle the center channel lows. Which do you prefer of the two since price is not the issue, how did their outputs against one another compare, depth, speed, etc... Just looking at these two since i can get both for a good price just not sure of which one to really go for so any help that you/anyone can give me would be most appreciated. Thanks for any that reply. -Eric

Here is the question nagging me as of late. Probably going to sell Yamaha reciever to a friend. Current system consists of Klipsh Rf-3 all around and an Rc-3 center with a Velodyne FSR-18 sub filling the low end. Which would give me the better sound and why: Harman Kardon AVR-430 or AVR-630 or Lower powered AVR-230 with a Parasound Hca-855 amp (85 watts X5 channels) Though the parasound amp weighs as much as the whole avr-630, i have heard similiar amps and HK sounds wonderful on Klipsch speakers. Thus i stand facing a dilemma. Erego any input that you can give me would be most appreciated. Thanks to all that apply. -Eric

To those out there that own/have listened to the Velodyne FSR/HGS 18" subs, how would you compare them to the now very frequently talked about but not so frequently reviewed Revel B-15 subs? Give me the goods as far as speed (being relative to the size i am sure that neither are the fastest out there), depth, slam, etc... These two have really interested me for a while and i am curious to know how they would stack up to one another since none of the dealers around me appear to run both brands. Also for kicks and giggles stack a pair of each of them against a single B4 driven by a Crown K2 (that is how would two Velo's compare against the B4 in one test and how would 2 B15s fare against the B4 in another test...indulge my curiosity) Thanks to all that reply. -E

Well met, well put, and no doubt both will be very well deserved. Hate to be the copycat but soon i will have to follow in your footsteps.

Hate when i put things in (< >) and it never appears in the post.. Any how the good dream was supposed to be that you quoted us prices in Canadian dollars Ear, as Paradigm is a canadian company. However, something tells me that you didn't in which case i really will have to fall in love with the Sig in order to be able to justify a doubling of cost for Paradigms newest flagship sub.

Good dream: thats not so bad then... Bad dream: That seems to be too bad, as a cherry finished B4+ calls from the other side of the room... Just tell me that if i am dreaming about such a sub....its a good dream.

Overkill...such a soothing word when one speaks of subs. Quickly though Formica, can you give me the names of the other companies that are making Everest like designs, my research has failed to produce much literature or feedback like that of the folks at acoustic visions. Thanks again. -Eric

Great to hear from someone Formica, it seems that your response was right one with what i have heard from the industry people i have talked to. However, i think that the snell had much more hype from the industry guys than i have discovered myself...i am setting up a private demo near my home to see how this thing truly performs. Also its the same price as a new B4 making it vey hard to justify as i do not see the two being anywhere near equals...what think you on it? As far as the Hartley drivers i have had several opportunities to purchase, one right now on audiogon but only as pairs. And the only enclosure plans i have seen resemble an odd sort of horn like loading. As to the DIY type design i am definitely considering one though i know little to nothing about designing the enclosures, do not have the tools, and am not the least bit able as a carpenter...i would probably ty to contract out the whole design. On the other hand i did consider a dual tempest design using 4 18" passive radiators on a bridged NAD amp but after talking to a few experienced DIY ers it seemed that the cabinet would have to be 15-20 cubic feet.

How do you all think the following larger passive subs stack up against one another in the the normal subwoofer tests we all perform (integration, sheer home theater spl, speed, etc..) the svs ultras/ss, the adire audio everests', the oldie but tried and true Snell Sub 1800 THX, etc... Lets say for the sake of argument they would be run with either a NAD 208 thx or 218thx amp (bridged mono for the 8 ohm snell). So it terms of integrating with a reference series 7 channel home theater how do you predict these largers monsters would perform in all of the normal sub tests? Also for those more experienced DIY builders out there here are a few questions: 1. Does anyone have any info or link to info on the old hartley 24" drivers? 2. Would these be a good subject for a DIY design and if so what kind of cabinet design would best suit such a driver if we wanted it to be a fantastic lfe sub (tuned for a mixture of both extension and spl)? Thanks to any and all that help out with these small quandries. -Eric

Thanks Mike. Now that we have established that this is in fact a defect do you think it wise to attempt self repair or try to return a model that has been out of production to the place that i originally bought it from.

Getting very frustrated...must have an answer...

Hi all, good friend of mine bought one of the polk rt300p subs at a great price since there was no matching pair or tower part of the module. After playing it for a while we noticed that on challenging materials at moderate to semi-high volumes there sounds like a crackling sound coming out of the top woofer (for those that are not familair with the rt3000p it is a dual 8" setup with a 300wat sub in very thick/heavy cabinet). ANY possible solutions on what could be causing this and how to remedy it would be more than greatly appreciated... Again just for clarification it only makes this crackling sond under challenging materials and it only sounds like its coming from the topmost woofer. I have checked and rechecked the seals and it is apparent that the woofer and amp are in good condition. If any need more detail please feel free to fire away with questions so that i can nip this problem. Thanks again to all that reply. -Eric

Give me more my friend, do you really think that it would take 2 or more of our Velo's to match the power of the Denali...thats a prett big claim, but then again coming from a man of experience I have to believe you more that doubt you. None the less can you give me a little more concrete reasoning...like for example the kiega amp (never heard of it though have seen the inside shots and it does not look half bad, very heavy for a class D amp) do you know anything about them or their background? And the tumult in an enclosure of that size and weight...really that strong eh? Look foreward to hearing from you Ear.