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TheEAR

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About TheEAR

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  1. Well not exactly all speakers, take a few classic , dare I say iconic JBL speakers ! They will fetch several times more than they were sold for even in converted currency brand new! There are those few timless speakers I would love to buy, unfortunate reality is these are almost all sold in a few shops in Japan. restored to perfection and even...refinished by master craftsmen.Some older Klipsch K Horn or vintage Tannoy also deserve respect and can command higher prices. JBL finest however stand at the very top in the resale field.
  2. TheEAR

    DIY sub

    Yes horn loaded they are, this bass section must have awe inspiring SLAM.
  3. I would absolutly not remove any bracing from these very thin boxes, the bracing was not factored for looks. Adding stuffing will add volume as "seen"by the driver. Adding stuffing within reason is a YES, removing bracing a big NO. Simply common sense here. When i build cabinets for subs I make sure I have bracing every 5 inches or so and matrix bracing in the cabinets holding the very high performance drivers (LMS-Ultra, Acoupower, Tumult...). The less the cabinet walls vibrate the less loss you have, the less sound leak you have. the better
  4. Hmm these PSA subs have a similar look and approach to the now defunct eD(remember eD?) subs. Low(~$200 or less) cost larger drivers in larger boxes = BIG PERFORMANCE per $. Could be an interesting alternative to DIY.
  5. The SVS SB13 Ultra is competition for a JL F113, very close performance. Slight edge to the F113 here. The E110 however uses a 10" driver and simply cannot be compared to a SB13 Ultra. SB13 Ultra all the way in extension,output at all frequecies and...SQ. As great small sub as the E series from JL are, the SVS offer more performance per $. I use four F113 in my "small" PC audio system....yeah they bang hard and when called upon offer finesse...but over $3000 per sub. Purchased one of the very first sold in Canada...still all working.
  6. Some capable sub drivers I use are the beastly TC Sounds LMS-Ultra and Accoupower 18's, I am getting the RE XXX 18's. Massive linear displacement, the RE needs a larger cabinet. Ideal for sealed cabinets used in multiples with PEQ applied to get flat response down to below any ported design. I have a few Sound Splinter drivers (TC Sounds made), very high quality. The negatives with TC Sounds...do not bottom the drivers, the alu cones do not forgive abuse/bottoming. If you bottom a diver is is being abused. I have never bottomed/damaged a single sub. Proper filters/box/port(tune if ported)are Paramount.Ported subs require filtering below tune as you can bottom easy providing enough power. Ideal design revolves around taking the driver to near thermal(wattage Wise) VC when nearing excursion limits. I try to remain within linear Xmax, never aproach Xmech or thermal limits.This is not a max SPL competition where you drive them to the brink of thermal/excursion suicide.
  7. These are some descent small subs, but having tried most compact subs made I have to say the all important WAF makes them so popular. The smaller the sub, the lower the performance per $. No matter who designed/manufactured the unit. $350-400 in mint condition maybe if you must have one, as a new was $499. These are not collector items and they lose value with time/use.
  8. Tapped horns bring the most SPL in the usable range out of drivers, drivers as small as 6" will astound with high clean high SPL. A good few have build monster performers using 12" Eminence sub drivers. If you can allow a larger (or long/tall)box and can cut and assemble the cabinet properly. Then you get tremendous output per dollar.
  9. Did I read LFE/sub output on a receiver, integrated amp. Better use the sub/LFE out. The mains should be relieved from the deepest bass they cannot reproduce properly. This offloads the speakers and amp section in the integrated/receiver. Even with very capable mains like the larger Klipsch Palladiums or the Dynaudio S5.4 I have I set the crossovers to 60Hz, I want the impact/slam from the mains but the true LF from the subs. You would have to use truly huge mains capable of true 16Hz performance @ high SPL to negate the need for subs. And how many speakers fit that bill, not even the imposing Wilson Alexandria X2's, once you relieve these from 40hz down, and add a proper sub array. These is no mains in the world that rival the displacement and extension of a sealed array. I do not see why you would not use a LFE/sub out for a powered sub? unless the crossover point is fixed and ruians the mains/sub match in your room.
  10. TheEAR

    What A Day

    Thank you, yes I will stay. Never left the Klipsch forums. Just took an extended "sick" leave. Using well placed quartets of identical subwoofers you can achieve near flawless (at listening) position bass. The ideal is to start with a great single rather than multiples of lesser subs, as you get towards the magical set of four, you will only get improved SQ and greater headroom. Mix and match works , but never leads to the "That is it, I have reached my goal" joy. Often one well positioned and calibrated sub can bring good enough performance to satisfy a very critical listener. Again I prefer sealed subs, negatives are multiple drivers need to be used to get to a desired SPL/freq goal, more robust driver/amplification used.And if you need apply PEQ, drivers with enough Xmax and safe high Xmech just in case you decide to floor the volume.
  11. TheEAR

    Looking for a sub

    If you can build two simple sealed cabinets(proper bracing) you are a great candidate for DIY. I used to own over 60 commercial subs of many sizes and ranging from budget to upscale subs. Once I started with my first srious build a dual TC Sounds TC-3000 15" sealed opposed. I never looked back. Dollar for dollar cannot be beat, you buy the driver and amp, and pay very little for the cabinet (I use regular Birch and Russian Baltic Birch), you can use MDF as I have used for my two first projects, mostly a time investment. Today quality large displacement drivers ca be had from ~$200 to $300/ driver, a economical pro amp ~$300. The rest ~ $100. To access a level of performance you cannot find in ready made subs . A large ported of a much more compact multiple sealed are two viable ways to reach great performance. I prefer multiple sealed as I can boost extreme LF to get flat frequency response down to near DC. Ported you get much more output per/driver down low, at the expense of increased box size. Or you can use PR's to maintain box size in check. Opposed PR's are very important as they are mass loaded.
  12. Dayton Audio makes some very competent sub drivers in the HO and Ultimax series. The driver selected is more of a SQ driver , I have two of the 15" Dayton HO sub drivers waiting for cabinets. Dollar for dollar very good value. Very good choice , nice work. Investing time in building a proper cabinet(well braced) and using bolts to hold the heavy drivers is time well spent.
  13. TheEAR

    "The Ear"

    Hello fellow Klipschers, Faced a few days at the bottom of the pit, lost people dear to me, still not easy to talk about it. Lost our beloved cat who died of cancer slowly. Life took a turn for the bad. Met the woman that changed my life and made me see beauty in the world. I have come out of the pit now, rebuild my audio systems , renovated my place. And am in the process of expanding what will be probably one of the most demented subwoofer arrays ever. Have over 40 pro amps and even some on order. Lets say car like SPL output down to 10Hz, with ease. 36 Drivers will be used powered by over 130Kw of amplification for the subs. Iown several units of almost all high performance subwoofer drivers from around the globe. My sickness is my passion. Fantasy world, yes of course. Being sourrounded by dozens of subs for no truly practical reason is some form of fantasy.
  14. The Velo ULD-15 is an old old sub, its performance compared to today's subs is nothing great. These Velodynes have low linear Xmax, displacement is quite poor. At lower SPL or in smaller rooms they sound great(providing the driver is original/refoamed/reconed). Today a Velo DD15 or newer brethren will trounce these old , once great subs in overall performance(mostly output limited down deep).
  15. TheEAR

    What A Day

    Using multiple capable subs correctly (placement is crucial)can bring truly awe inspiring( when called upon) foundation for music and movies. I use sixteen TC LMS-Ultra 15" and 18" drivers in sealed cabinets driven by nearly unlimited amplification (four iTech8000 and four PL380). The total freedom from audible compression and majestic ease cannot be put into mere words. A true foundation for the most demanding audiophile, bass fanatic and worth each penny invested. It is all about clean output,low distortion and massive displacement even at minimal cone excursion. I use dual Sunfire ATMOS to help Dynaudio powered monitors as part of my most minimalistic PC audio setup and even a near sub like the ATMOS (two of them) help with the realism.
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