derrickdj1

Rob, you HT is awesome with all the changes from last summer! Folks, this is a 5 star HT experience sound system.

Be carefully with those headphones, lol. A guy died due to wearing headphones. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1997-01-03/news/9701030216_1_faulty-wiring-prison-official-state-correctional-institute

Tinnitus is like herpes, once you have it, tinnitus is very difficult to get rid of or, impossible. The old inner ear bones don't move as free just as some of the joints. This makes them easier to injure along with other things not functioning like they did when you were twenty. Old age is a monster in spite of how hard we try to fight it.

I am one that did the transistor mod and later reversed it. I liked the RF 7 as it was manufactured. The biggest difference between the RF 7 and RF 7 II IMO is the midrange is better in the RF 7 II and the bass is more pronounced in the origninal RF 7.

Protect the ear when possible is the key to help prevent tinnitus and nothing can be done about aging, lol.

That is an excellent graph Rob. People need to post graphs because a picture is worth 1000 words. It also show what is possible. Your point on Theory and our small HT is right on target. There are so many people using multiple subs now and employing NF sub. This sets up a scenario where the NF subs and far field sub in the room are most likely not identical due to room and space restrictions..

Just a side note, I have never read anything where Geedes said you need identical subwoofers or it can't work. He has mentioned the the LF sub should match the main. Setup myths have no place in the scientific approach to settting up multiple subs.

A given room and gear can only equal so much perfection. Proper integration of mains and subs= This is an image of perfection and unity. This should sound good and be slightly different in multiple setups. Since there is no one perfect time alignment, this represents the best that can be achieved in X room with Y gear and Z correction(EQ and room TX, ect.) with multiple subs. The circle represents the HT and good bass. The spike are the negative aspect of the calibrations and HT due to being close to walls, suck outs from door or hallway open, asymmetry and what ever else in the room that prevents the perfect response. Unless you are in an anechoic chamber or free field with no wind or atmospheric changes, you for the most part are dealing with this diagram. Even the work by Harman and Geddes has to be taken into perspective and the room that their findings are based one type of room or a room built for good acoustical sound. Horn subs are no exception. Sound wave physics still applies. They bring their own deck of cards to the table. Just decide which deck you would rather play with. The game is the same, the expertise in setup may not be? This is an excellent topic and not easily answered in a few post and should generate good discussion. Ask more questions, refute any point that you don't agree with. This is how we all learn. Also post some graph for teaching purpose and to be educational. The subwoofer bassband is something we all can bend to our will with the right knowledge.

With everything being equal, the edge goes to the larger same quality woofer. The RF 7 will be in a 3rd generation for good reason. The real question is will it make a difference in your room? With my last calibration my RF 7 II's are XO at 100 Hz which is gaining my acceptance as the best XO in my system?

It is hard to answer with the limited info. Room size, avr, sub EQ like MCACC Pro, Auddysee, etc. all need to be considered. For many HT's, there is no need for Mid bass driver if the system can be calibrated. MBM have become popular over the last year or two. People employing have lots of sub and may be running into cancellations issues in the midbass. They are fighting themselves in a respect.

Omnimic is a great tool and easy to learn as another option for taking measurements. It is more expensive but, one can be up and running in 20 min. It will take several days for the new user to learn the in's and out's of REW. The manual is around 90 pages.

Matt is one of our Chicago area guys. This topic has been covered in part at some of our local GTG and the GTG I had back in Oct. of 2016. My approach is different than Matt's but, will get the same results for the most part. Matt's post is great for those using REW. My approach is with Omnimic but, most of the basic concepts are very similar.

The issue of 2 lesser subs vs one really good sub is a frequent topic. There is no right or wrong answer. If you have the ability to get a second subs down the road, get a really good sub. If size problem, then two smaller subwoofer will offer more benefit. This will give better bass coverage that can't be achieved with one sub. My preference is to add subs in pairs.

Multiple subwoofer integration with the mains. This is a complicated process to cover in one or two post. Also, is there any advantage of using all the same type and size subs. The issue of phase cancellation has to also be considered. First, you can't perfectly time align multiple subwoofers. It does not matter if they are identical subs or mixed. Second, you can only align the direct reflection of one subwoofer to a single spot. There will be secondary reflections that will interfere with perfect alignment. Third, take two, three or four subs and multiply that by every boundary in the room. This multiplied number is the number of spots one would have to time align. This is impossible because you can set a delay for a reflection or change the phase. Fourth, there is light at the end of the tunnel. For the same reasons that subs are omnidirectional and a group delay lag up to 25-30 ms are not audible in the small HT. This is what allows for good results with sealed and mixed subwoofers in the same system, and also the use of non-identical subwoofers. No problem if they are all the same either. There is a need for a permanent sticky in the subwoofer section for subwoofer setup and integration on multiple subwoofer. With skillful EQ, this is not as difficult has it appears. For my 8 subs all asymmetrically placed, I use no more than 2-3 EQ filters and the first one is a boost down low. So, the EQ process does not have to be a nightmare.

No real difference between in-wall or in-ceiling, except for the shape. Klipsch has several in-ceiling and in-wall speakers to choose from.