derrickdj1

I think this is much ado about nothing, when you look at the world we live in. You can't protect the kids from everything and Wi Fi connected devices with increase by over 80% by 2022. Mars is not currently occupied.

I am with you Thom, I am not using the main theater setup anywhere near that I used it. I have a 3.1 in my family room and it is more than adequate for the family and my taste. It is all a cycle and things can change or remain the same.

Dito, LATERAL MOVE FOR THE MOST PART.

Hybrid amps are a nice way to go. A Mc hybird is an especially nice way to go, lol. I started this way also and eventually just had to go to full tube amp. Beware of Alice. Enjoy Trippings!

No magic feet?

I can't put up a good argument for the 32 bit DAC's since much of it is marketing hype. The filters used are able to discern 32 bit resolution but, not being an audio engineer, I can't support or not support the significance of this as far as the final sound. The most likely answer to why some avr's have a tube like sounds is multifactorial and based on the parts used to construct the avr.

How does the tube sound happen, This is what I know basee on Pioneer Elite SC 99 avr that have dual 32 bit DAC's. A 32 bit DAC can/will requantize 16, 20 and 24 bit music to 32 bit. This will bring about a smoother and less harsh presentation. Then you can use the avr's digital filters SLOW(soft and warm), SHARP(solid and tight) and SHORT(quick and forward).

this guy made small dollies:

You need something like this:http://www.ambery.com/6stspseamsws.html

No problem with mixing non-identical subs. Put the smaller one closer to the MLP. Phase and other stuff is a mute point. I would turn the XO all the way up or off on both subs. There is nothing magical about symmetrically sub and usually more negatives. Even identical subs in two different locations will behave has two totally different subs. If they are symmetrical. they will reinforce the same frequencies and dould the same nulls. Neither is a positive thing in the subwoofer world.

A quart should be way more that enough.. If it is not, the paint is to thick and will not hold up. There is a point of being good and a point of being overboard.

No way should this be dead, go to AVS DIY speaker and subs and people will help you for free. These are the people that help me build 8 subs of different types, size, drivers. etc. They even told me the power requirements not to exceed to get the most out of the speaker. Eng 399 who is on this forum has made many speakers for people or model them on WISD. RobKlipsc will also model a box for you. Your drivers are good, you will need a XO. I have sent other members to him to build speakers for although I could have did it but, not as good! DIY Sound Group is also another option, they may be able to model a box and sell you dirver and XO at a deep discount. One of the designer's is in our Chicagoland AVS membership.

I even wonder with some of the more expensive amp, should you roll the tubes. I would like to think the tubes that come with an amp have been selectively picked to work best with that particular amp within reason and cost. For example, amp A and B are EL 34 tube amp and use same preamp tube. Amp B has a tendency to be bright where as amp A lacks some midrange performance. Tubes can be picked to damp or pickup each of these area. I Know that most preamp tubes and power tubes of the same designation have many similarities but, the cost can be vastly different. Is the cost benefit in the tube amp upgrade worth and are we making many of the decision without enough info. No amp maker tells you which type of tube should be use except for PrimaLuna. PrimaLuna does not recommend tube rolling.

Hi Emile, Klipsch like speaker parts that work at 8 ohm nominal, so the R28F or KG 2.5 should work. I don't no how to model a box for you but, someone be able to model a speaker that will fit the size you need with WISD or bass box software.

Tube amp upgrade which can even be applied to SS amp, is it really worth it. I see so many people doing thing when they purchase a used or new amp. They change the stock tubes, caps, It is very appealing to think that I can morph this amp into a whole new creature, just change this and change that, not hard to do. These changes are suppose to yield a major improvement in tone and presentation that yields audio bliss. Not that easy without considering the speakers. Some speakers can benefit in rolling back the highs and some actually need a boost in the highs. So, these or any upgrades need to take into account the speakers and setup. What works for one may be totally wrong for someone else. Even tube rolling falls into this scenario. There is no best tube. It may work well with speaker X and not speaker Y. I will say swapping preamp tubes do little harm and can have a major benefit. What major mods do you think make a real difference. Some people change resistor to lower brightness other strive for more headroom.