Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

henry4841

Regulars
  • Content Count

    469
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

302 Excellent

About henry4841

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Short across it anyway. Could be when a signal reaches it that it opens too early. Never know.
  2. Just came to me. Not as quick thinking as I use to be. If the polyswitch is bad, open it would be the problem of low highs since all the sound would be going through the 100ohm resistor and also changing the crossover frequency. Easy to check with ohmmeter or even just jump across the polyswitch with a jumper wire.
  3. Learn something every day. I just googled RDE 50 and came up with a ceramic capacitor that Mouser and Digikey sells. If that is the case then the circuit should be just a protection circuit which does make sense. No help for OP.
  4. You might try removing the RDE50 and 100 ohm resistor and see what effect that has. I had to do some searching to find out exactly what a RDE 50 is and what I find is it is a ceramic capacitor. Never seen that symbol before and not listed in an electronic symbol book I have. Anyways the circuit looks like it may be some kind of attenuation network. Might be just for frequencies above the human hearing range but not exactly sure what frequency without the value of capacitor stated. Worth a try anyways. Will not hurt anything. Not part of the crossover frequency network.
  5. You cannot do that with the original Klipsch design crossovers without upsetting the crossover frequencies. ALK sells crossovers that can be done that way.
  6. Easy to do with L-pads from parts express. Directions come with L-pad. You will need two, one for each channel. Just remember center pin goes to positive + of the driver. If you reverse the outside pins the L-pad will just work in reverse. https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-15W-Mono-3-8-Shaft-8-Ohm-260-248
  7. My understanding is he still does make and sell infrequently on Ebay. Drop him a message on Ebay and if able I am sure he will build one for you.
  8. The EL34 kit uses good parts and iron. Should sound excellent when assembled. Not much choice these days for someone wanting learn and build a tube kit. I lived in the day when there were many choices. I even assembled a television kit in the 60's. Good luck finding a television kit these days. Looks like a good way for someone to get into diy electronics and be rewarded with excellent sound.
  9. Excellent. I love seeing new members posting pictures.
  10. I highly recommend what Mustang said. I do not think moving the crossover point has any bearing on what you are hearing. I would recommend these. https://www.parts-express.com/L-Pad-15W-Mono-3-8-Shaft-8-Ohm-260-248 Easy peasy to install. Center pin goes to horn. If either one of the other pins hooked up wrong the L-pad will just be in reverse. Increase the wattage if you want but 15 watt is plenty good enough. Tweeter never sees a continuous 15 watts, doubtful even a peak 5 watts. The driver for the horn is the culprit. Needs some attenuation to suit your taste.
  11. El-34 tubes are my favorites as well. Right now I am using 6L6 tubes in two of my amplifiers which use the EL-34 family of tubes. The KT-88 is supposed to have better bass and I am using them in an amplifier specifically made for KT-88's but do not find a lot of difference in sound form the EL-34 or 6L6 tubes. No experience with the 150's but as Shu said more power that is really not needed for most with horns.
  12. As you probably know this subject is very subjective but if you do some reading you can get an idea of what sellers have to say here. In there search engine you have to hit enter to do a search. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/vacuum_tubes
  13. All of the above. Lucky guy to be able to hear the magic of a 300B.
×
×
  • Create New...