sivadselim
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Posts posted by sivadselim
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Sorry, I can't really address this. Did you calibrate your setup properly?Just purchased a Klipsch SW-308. The power off/auto/on switch gives you those options, but when I put it in Auto, the green light comes on but never goes off. According to some specs I've read, it is supposed to either turn red after 20 minutes (standby mode) or turn off.
It just constantly lights up green, even hours after I turn my system off.
Why? You should either turn it all the way up or bypass it completely if there is a bypass setting and/or bypass input available on the sub. Your AVR is providing the crossover filtering function. You don't want the sub doing that, too. With both your sub's low-pass filter (it's not really a crossover) and the AVR's crossover set at 80Hz, you will get unwanted interaction between the two low-pass filters.I have subs crossover set at about 80Hz.......................
With your front speakers set to LARGE you will get less output from the subwoofer and none when listening to 2-channel sources in 2-channel mode. 2-channel sources have no LFE channel content so the sub will be inactive with 2-channl sources. Try setting your front speakers to SMALL.I have my receiver set for large speakers in the front...............
What speakers are you using? What AVR?
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He said it would blow a fuse with all cabling disconnected.
[:$] Oh. Oops.
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Do you still have your old AVR? If so, try reconnecting it to the sub with a new fuse in it and see what happens.
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hat price though, I would look at SVS subwooffers way before this one.
Yeah? So, which SVS do you think can match up with that AT THAT PRICE?
An Epik Empire, currently @ $799, might compete.
Also, I suspect that the SW-115 is going to eventually be available for less than that list price.
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Hmmmm. Interesting. It's relatively inexpensive. And pretty plain, too. Looks like they are looking to go head to head with the usual suspects. And 18Hz for $850 is pretty competitive. The link in the original post is dead.
http://www.klipsch.com/product/75768.46005.0.0.0/1012935/_/SW-115_Subwoofer
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This gizmo requires a sub that features the proprietary "WA PORT".
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From everything I have read, the Audioengine product works well enough for this. Any delay issues can be compensated for by using your processor's distance settings (assuming you are using an AVR). Just make certain you buy enough of the parts you will need. You'd need 2 (not just 1) of the AC-to-USB adapters; one at each end. I think the basic setup only incudes one of those. And 2 RCA-to-3.5mm adapters with the proper ends that you might need. Not sure how many of those it comes with but those are easy enough to find, anywhere. You may even be able to find mono versions although the stereo version with only one of the lines being used will work just fine.
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MODERATOR, PLEASE DELETE POST
Posted in the 'Garage Sale' section of the forum. Sorry, but I really am not interested in shipping it. Need a Colorado pick-up.
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I just picked up an older pair of Vandersteen 2Ci which are designed to be at minimum bi-wired. There are two sets of banana inputs with no jumpers. I made a set of jumpers and I'm listening to them this way right now. When I get a chance to bi-wire I'll see if there is a difference. In the past I have bi-wired and bi-amped other speaker brands. The bi-wiring seemed to give subtle improvement while bi-amping provided noticable improvement.
Vandersteen insists those speakers be bi-wired. There used to be quite a bit of info (propaganda?) on their website regarding bi-wiring,
/shrugs
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You have? Didn't you just get all your stuff fairly recently? Why don't you TRY to enjoy your new stuff for a while before giving in to the upgrade bug so soon? Please? [Well'p I've been convinced.
] Save up your money for a while and set your sites on somethiong nicer than what you are currently considering.
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Sorry, but setting that AVR's impedance setting to '4ohms' when driving those particular speakers IS bad advice. Totally unnecessary.DJK and Trey do not give bad advice.
And that that AVR's other available setting is '6ohms' (as opposed to '8ohms') would only tend to lend support to the idea that that AVR is more than robust enough to drive a pair of 8ohm (nominal) rated speakers with its impedance set to its standard '6ohm' setting.
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Me either. [I don't understand the confusion.
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Yes, it's fine.I was wondering if it was possible to use the
FR and FL connections on my Denon and still use the Front preouts at the
same time?
No, they don't.Connecting to the Pre Outs usually disables the corresponding Speaker Outs.
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Go ahead and ignore expert advise................
Which is what? Set the impedence switch to its lowest setting no matter what?
Expert? Baloney. [
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Trey's advice is correct.
@djk, too.
The original poster's speakers are 8ohm speakers. How is setting the impedence switch to 4ohms the correct advice? It's not.
I realize that the speakers' impedence may drop as low as 4ohms or even lower. Still, they are nominally rated as 8 ohm speakers. Any receiver spec'd to be able to drive an 8 ohm speaker will drive those speakers just fine with no need for the 4ohm impedence switch setting. In the original poster's case, since he has a 4 ohm and 6 ohm setting, and with those speakers, the 6 ohm setting is the correct setting.
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Just take Trey's advice
Why? Trey is wrong. [
] As pointed out in the thread and, more specifically, in the Audioholics link that was linked to in Ski Bum's post, the 4ohm setting provided on mid-level recievers and amps does nothing but throttle back the amps' output so as to provide a modicum of protection when they are driving 4ohm speakers. That switch doesn't make the amps magically operate at 4ohms. The impedence at which an amp operates is dictated by the speaker it is driving.
To people with a 4ohm and 8ohm setting, but driving 4ohm speakers, I would recommend at least trying to use the standard 8ohm setting, if at all possible, as this will provide the most power to the speakers. Yes, the 4ohm speakers will force the receiver to operate at 4ohms, but many receivers are robust enough to handle that nowadays. The 4ohm setting in this situation does nothing but send less power to the speakers thereby reducing the amount of heat produced and thereby reducing the chance of the amps going into a thermal protection mode. But no matter what, whether the 8ohm or 4ohm setting is used, the receiver will still be operating at the impedance presented by the speakers (in this example, 4ohms - nominal, of course).
And the advice to use a 4ohm setting with an 8ohm rated speaker just because the impedence probably dips well below 8ohms with that speaker is, quite frankly, terrible advice. Terrible. If a speaker is nominally rated at 8ohms then any receiver should be able to drive them just fine operating at its standard 8ohm setting regardless of any impedence dips presented by the speakers. The 4ohm setting in this instance will ONLY serve to diminish the performance of one's system.
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The only problem I have is the auto on. My old sub 12 would turn on even in the lowest volume settings. But this new sub requires a higher volume/bass to turn on. I guess I can turn up the sub out level on the yammie, then turn down the sub level VIA the side level control.
I leave mine ON all the time. Never been an issue for 7+ years, now. There is no real advantage to using the Auto-ON feature. It doesn't actually turn off the sub's amp.
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Yea! [
]Now I won't feel bad about trying to sell mine locally. [
] A question on setting this up, on my old sub
I set the crossover on the sub to the highest point to turn it off
(bypass the crossover), and used the yammies onboard crossover. Should I
follow this theory or am I doing this wrong?Don't do it that way. The RSW-15 has a lowpass bypass switch on it. Use it. Set it to "Disable (LFE Mode)".
Also how far away should the rear active sub be from
the wall is ideal?? I dont think the side to wall distance is very
important, is it??How far from the back wall is up to
you. I like 8 - 12" and that is probably what most RSW owners will
recommend. Side wall distance will affect it, too, of course. What you are using
in your picture looks fine. But, basically, with your placement what you
are asking with those questions is how close to the corner should it
be. Experiment. You can aim it diagonally into the corner, too. -
[:^)]They are competely different subs. The RT-10d is triangular with a 10" front-firing driver and 2 - 10" side or rear-firing passive radiators. The RSW-15 is a cube with a rear-firing 15" driver and a front-firing 15" passive radiator.What's the performance difference between the RT-10d vs. a RSW-15?
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I don't think the OP has "subwoofer pre-outs". He has a 2-channel pre-amp. He's always in "Pure" mode.Like I said about the "Pure" 2 ch listening mode, this is the only benefit I can see, since in "Pure" listening mode the subwoofer pre-outs are turned off so there will be no subwoofer this way. However using speaker level connections would allow the "Pure" listening mode to still have the subwoofer working.
There is no real difference as far as what is reproduced on the playback end, SWL. But using the pre-outs is probably a cleaner way to do things.
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Looks like some new subs are available in the SW-350 and SW-450. I suspect these witll replce the Sub10 and Sub12.
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Good to see folks are still giving great advice over here. [8-)]10 and 12 are driver sizes. So the 12 would have more punch
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Dummy, the sub's high-level speaker outputs are high-passed at 100Hz. This means that they only pass those frequencies above ~100Hz to the speakers that are connected to them. As pointed out, in order to use a speaker level connection to your sub, you must set the front speakers to LARGE or FULL RANGE (and also set the receiver up as having NO SUB).My concern is, in the sub's manual using the High Level Out “passes the
High Level In signal to your….speakers with frequencies below 100hz removed” Now, does this mean that the frequencies below 100hz are automatically
handled by the sub, or are they being eliminated outright by the connection?(The high-pass filter is not a brick-wall. There is a slope or drop-off associated with it. So, frequencies below 100Hz will still get past the filter but they drop off at some rate the further those frequencies are below 100Hz. Ths slope of most subs' high pass filters are usually either 12dB/octave or 24dB/octave. This means that at 50Hz, which is an octave below 100Hz, the output will be down either 12dB or 24dB.)
The sub also has a variable low-pass filter. This is often incorrectly called the sub's "crossover". It's not. It is an adjustable low-pass filter. Assuming that your speakers ARE capable of output down to (and beyond) 100Hz, you would use the sub's variable low-pass to adjust it to your speakers' output characteristrics when they are being high-passed at 100Hz. The correct setting for the sub's variable low-pass filter may be ~100Hz. But it may be lower or higher than that. For example, the room may have a peak in its frequency response ~100Hz in which case the optimal setting for the sub's variable low-pass may be lower than 100Hz. Also, the knob that adjusts the low-pass and the frequency scale printed or painted around the knob that adjusts the low-pass is not hugely accurate. So, the correct setting for the sub's variable low-pass needs to be determined empirically, either by adjusting it to taste, or by measuring your room's frequency response and adjusting the sub's variable low-pass to a setting that provides the flattest response.
Now, you can also run your front speakers full-range, if you wish, by simply comnecting them directly to your receiver's speaker outputs. Yes, you can connect both the sub and the speakers to the same outputs. If you run your speakers full-range, you would use the sub's variable low-pass to adjust the sub to your speakers' low-end roll-off. Again, the correct setting would need to be determined empirically. Realize, though, that if you run your speakers full-range when the receiver is configured as having NO SUB that the LFE channel (with material that contains an LFE channel) will be sent to your speakers. Whether this would be problematic for you depends upon your speakers' design, construction, and capabilities as well as the volume levels you wil be attempting.
(If you have some "B" speaker outputs that represent parallel outputs
off of the same two amps as your"A" outputs, you can use these to connect both the speaker and sub to your front channels.) -
What do you mean by this? You have the sub's own low-pass set to 80Hz?TYhe sub is X'd at 80Hz. It won't play anything above that to avoid compression.
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SW-308...Green power light stays on, very little output problem
in Home Theater
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