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Recent Posts
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Ultimately, power requirements have to reflect listening level requirements and distortion requirements. Let the listening requirement be 85dB average. Let the distortion requirement be for now, "clean"; un-clipped similar to values at rated power. Let the crest factor requirement be +20dB. Crest factor is a comparison of the peak level to average level with respect to recorded music. A crest factor of +20dB is sufficient to cover all recorded music except for some test records and demonstration albums. This +20dB is a convenient figure because it represents a linear factor of 100. An amp rated at 100W subject to a +20dB crest factor results in a maximum average level of 1W. This means with the 100W amp the maximum average power level that does not exceed 100W when the +20dB crest factor is applied to the average power level is... one watt. Since this 1W level is average, the crest factor above is reflected by a similar range below. 1W + 20dB = 100W 1W - 20dB = 0.01W or 10mW So the 1W level is in the middle of the 10Mw - 100W range... half the music is above, half below. At this point it is clear that even with a 100W amp, the "first watt" is half the music. The listening level of 85dB is also a convenient figure because the average speaker has a corresponding sensitivity specification. Continuing with the above instances, the 85dB speaker means the 1W average power will result in 85dB, and the +20dB crest factor applied means the level from the speaker will vary accordingly. At 10mW the speaker will present 65dB At 1W the speaker will present 85dB At 100W the speaker will present 105dB (if it can) There are some simplifying assumptions in the above, but the point is to compare this to using low power amps and high sensitivity speakers. So, we start again with the same requirements... An amp rated at 1W subject to a +20dB crest factor results in a maximum average level of 0.01W. This means with the 1W amp the maximum average power level that does not exceed 1W when the +20dB crest factor is applied to the average power level is... one hundredth watt. Since this 0.01W level is average, the crest factor above is reflected by a similar range below.
0.01W + 20dB = 1W
0.01W - 20dB = 0.0001W or 0.1mW So the .01W level is in the middle of the 0.0001W - 1W range... half the music is above, half below.
At this point it is clear that with a 1W amp, the "first watt" is ALL the music. The listening level of 85dB is also a convenient figure because the sensitive speaker of 105dB is +20dB above that, same as the crest factor.
Continuing with the above instances, the 105dB speaker means the 0.01W average power will result in 85dB, and the +20dB crest factor applied means the level from the speaker will vary accordingly. At 0.0001mW the speaker will present 65dB
At 0.01W the speaker will present 85dB
At 1W the speaker will present 105dB (easily) So at this point, both approaches meet the requirements at first glance. But looking further: In the high power amp low sensitivity speaker combination - class-AB has a constant level of non-harmonically related crossover distortion whose proportion of the total distortion increases with decreasing power output - the need for global negative feedback for solid state amps to be stable is a known detriment to harmonic distortion spectrum (shifting to higher order) - the harmonic distortion rises at lower power output levels (below the 100mW level is difficult to measure and distortion plots cut the line off below 100mW. The few instances when an effort has been made to examine distortion levels below 100mW has given a shocking result; in one case a highly regarded 250lb amp with "perfect specs" that sells for many thousands of dollars was measured to have distortion levels of 8% in the sub 100mW power output. The implication is that modest power amps may be even worse.) - high power levels to the speaker heat the voice coils, increase their resistance, and decrease their marginal output, so resulting in compression of dynamics (so they may not make it linearly to +20dB) In the low power high sensitivity combination - class-A has no crossover distortion - class-A SET amps typically have no global negative feedback - class-A SET amps' distortion curves get cleaner with decreasing output levels - low power levels to speakers are thermally insignificant to their operation (maximal dynamics) Keep in mind that the SPL meters and meters on amps are not perfect. Those that show average level are generally OK in so far as the level shown is close to correct. Those that show peak levels actually are not doing so... the method for summing amplitude over time to get the canonical "peak level" was standardized for male voice early in the radio broadcasting era. The summation time is too long to represent an instantaneous music transient peak and falls short by about 13dB of true peak. This means that when you see the biggest peaks on the meter bumping up to 87db, the actual peaks are up around 100dB. -
Of course drunk driving is number one. IIRC alcohol is involved in about half of all accidents. Watching COPS there are many accidents at 2:00 a.m. or whenever the bars close. My pet peeve is fog. One Thanksgiving I was fixing my car at a blinking red-light and yellow-light intersection in a hollow at night. Two college women were crossing from a general store to a gas station. A car came out of the fog, driven by another college woman. One pedestrian got brushed aside when she caught the chrome trim on the left side of the car but was mostly okay. She said over and over, "My mother is going to kill me." The other got the left headlight and was thrown down the road, which I had only glimpsed. I had a railroad flare, lit it up, and searched down the road. Smoke and red light in the dense fog -- very weird. She was face down with one foot pointing up. I listened to her back. It was like listening to a sack of potatoes. (My lasting impression.) The cops arrived at the scene of impact. And everyone was caring for the minor injury. But I told one cop, "There's another." I took him down the road and showed him. "I think she's dead, but that is your call" I said. Kinda stupid but all I could think of. The driver was just stricken with horror realizing the first lady had been injured. When I said, "There's another" she was totally freaked. I had to continue to my destination in the fog and was a basket case. No booze involved, no macho man. The driver has to live with this for the rest of her life. WMcD -
Lollygagging around texting or cell phone talking after the red light turns green and they stay stopped. Then I say to myself they are not driving they are texting. The text probably saying, "What are you doing?" JJK -
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Been meaning to buy one last 3 yrs but always wait till there sold out . I got the jump this yr they just put them out today .
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
How do I correct for a phase inverting component? The total number of phase inversions in the system should be either 0 or an even number. If you have an odd number of inversions (typically 1), compensate by inverting phase at the speaker terminals. Be sure to reverse the polarity on BOTH speaker terminals. In other words connect the amplifier positive (+ or red) connector to your speakers’ negative (“-” or black) connector for both sets of speaker wires. How do I know if my conrad-johnson component is phase inverting? Phase information on conrad-johnson products is in all but the earliest conrad-johnson owner’s manuals (PV1,PV2, PV3, MV45 and MV75). Early conrad-johnson preamplifiers were phase correct (with the exceptions of the PV3 and the PV4 which inverted phase of line-level inputs). From the PV7 and the Premier 7 on, all conrad-johnson brand preamplifiers (both tube and solid-state) have been phase inverting in the line-stage. All three pre-preamplifiers (HV1, HV2 and Premier Six) were phase inverting. All conrad-johnson power amplifiers, tube and solid-state, are phase correct except the Premier 350. -
By Chris Miami · Posted
Hello, I'm setting up a 7.1 home theater, so far I have: - 2 R-28F as front speaker - 1 R-12SW as subwoofer - 1 RP-440WC as central speaker Which one would be the best bet the my missing 4 surround speaker? Was thinking maybe R-12SW or is RP-240S a better option? Thank you Chris -
Well, I have resisted selling these for several years, but the demands of family life (2 young kids) and needing extra space require shifting of gears. This forum has been great to me and I have enjoyed mostly lurking for a long time. See pics here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskEojoYa, and let me know if you need any specific angles/shots. 1979 BK WO Belles in decent 7 out of 10 condition with AA crossovers. I replaced crossover caps with Crites parts ~2 years ago. They've been great speakers for me, and my wife grew to love them, but it's time to downsize speakers. Powered with a B&K ST-202 amp for a while (sounded great!) and now a Marantz NR-1604 receiver (underpowered, but never played loud because of the kiddos). Matching serial #s. Price is $1825. Downstairs in my man cave, I have 1970s Klipschorns in 7/10 condition with AK crossovers. I will post pics and more details tonight or tomorrow. I split up a pair of Vertical Cornwalls from 1972 to use as a center channel, which was a great LCR. All caps replaced via Crites. Matching serial #s. Price is $1850. A friend is borrowing the other of the pair of Cornwalls to use with a pair of CF-4 I let him borrow. These speakers sounds so great in a 2.1 setup. Powered by an Emotiva XPA-3. The Cornwall single is $400. If you want the pair, I can easily get the matching one from my friend. Will post pics in the next 24 hours. This post is making me realize how many Klipsch speakers I have owned in the last 7 years, mainly because of this amazing forum! I can't really upgrade from here, but am looking at the DIY route with my father in law. I am not looking to ship these speakers. Hoping the Klipsch community is interested so I don't have to go the Craigslist route. : ) -
That "warm tube sound" is second harmonic that wasn't in the original signal+jitter sidebands. That 2nd harmonic will convolve with the harmonics and the jitter sidebands to form more complex products, some of which may be audible, some of which isn't. So on balance, you'll hear a slightly more opaque sound, but probably not much more. Chris -
I recently revamped my bedroom PC audio system. I need to find a new home for this guy. It includes a spare set of tubes. Detailed info here: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=QIA6500&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsai_BRC30KH347fjksoBEiQAoiaqsSrCA94f2HB1r4souzYtUaQmGawvj_r288kEGjXJ9VYaAuwU8P8HAQ Asking price is $80 delivered to a CONUS address and paid by PayPal. Note 1: When hooked to high efficiency speakers there is a low level buzz/hum. I used it with not so efficient speakers so I never heard it. Note 2: This is NOT a tube amplifier. The preamp stage is tube buffered. The final amplifier stage is solid state. Thanks for looking!
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