craftsman

So, you're basically saying that your 4.1s was taken out in a mob hit to the transistor... Obviously, witness protection isn't working!

I believe that the part you are looking for is "IRF740A". What makes you think that the transistor is dead?

That stuff that you see at the bottom (or top) of the capacitor is glue to hold the capacitor down. Every v2-400 has the same stuff.

Any news or updates on how the process went? Thanks

A lot of intermittent switch failures are casued by dirt/oil getting into the switch mechanism. You can try some contact cleaner on the switch itself - of course, that would involve taking the CP-1 apart.

I've read that people have replaced their woofers with ones from www.partsexpress.com. You can also see if you can purchase a dead 4.1 subwoofer and use those woofers.

If you don't mind used, ebay usually has tons of Promedia 2.1/4.1 speakers for sale.

Okay, I've looked and this is what I found - I checked every leg of the secondary of the transformer starting from pin 9: Pin 9 connected to a diode which is connected to R27 (820 Ohms 1/2 watt 1%) which is connected to ground. This could be the one since it has two small electrolytic capacitors near by - very similar to what you have.

Hi Didyman, Unfortunately, it does not look anything like the 120V version. The PCB layout doesn't even resemble mine....

Almost any 5.1 amp will do - it will depend on the feature set you want. If you want to go cheap, I would recommend that you check out the local pawn shop as 5.1 amps (or receivers) have been around for years. As for the sub, the same advice goes. Think of it as shopping for a cheap home theatre rather than computer speakers.

Sure.

The sats are basically an inexpensive speaker system. They will work on the majority of amps and subwoofer systems that are rated for an 8 ohm load. You can if you want get an cheap 5.1 amp and connect the sats to it...

Normally, that might be a good idea. However, from what I have seen the 120V and the 220V units are completely different animals internally.

Hi Mickstafa, I'm sorry to hear about your issue. I too have a very similar issue with my 4.1s - what you are describing is almost exactly what I have (except that I replaced R12). You have to remember that I replaced the components before anything happened. On my unit, the +/- voltage coming out of the board has issues, if I connect the white ribbon cables (one of them is input and the other is output) the power coming into the regulators goes close to zero - which tells me that there is short somewhere. I replaced the regulators and the same problem exist. Unfortunately, I don't have enough time right now to address the issue. What I ended up doing was finding a used PM5.1 sub on Ebay and connecting my sats to it. Works fine.

Sorry, I've got the North American model.

Is this a 220 V model?

It's possible that the cable connecting to the rear jacks is bad - like mine...

Rust is not an indication of excessive heat. If that was the case, alot of cars would be bursting into flames. You can say that rust is an indication of poorly protected iron which has been exposed to oxygen... The purpose of those "heat transferring materials" is not to transfer heat - those are metal clips used to hold the transistor firmly to the heatsink so that the back of the transistor can transfer the heat effectively to the heatsink.

That sometimes happens - I had a similar problem. What you want to do is to determine whether its the cable or the control pod (the assembly that you took apart). You will see that the 1/8" plugs are connected to white connectors on the PCB. Both connectors are wired the same way. Just switch the cables around and test. If the problem remains the rear channels, then the control pod is dead. If the problem moves to the front channels, the cable is bad. With mine, it was the cable. I found the break in the cable, cut the end off and soldered a new one on. How did you know that the rear jacks don't work at all?

The volume control problem is relatively simple - you have some dust in the controls. I posted a procedure to address the problem several months back - look for CAIG. As for the rear channels, it might be related to the volume control problem as the rear channel sound is controlled by the same volume control...

Hi MrRuckus, Welcome! Both of these issues have been addressed on the board - do a quick search and you should be able to find what you need. Here's a quick summary of what can be done: 1. Speaker wire. The connections on the speaker is well known to have not the best connection. Take some contact cleaner or some pure 99% alcohol and clean the headphone plug going into the speaker. Should help it out. Also, you can replace the provided "kit string" wire with some 16 or 18 guage wire, if you know how to solder. 2. scratchy or noisy volume controls. In short, buy some CAIG Cailube MCL (old name) or DeOxit Fader Lube and disassemble the Control module (CP-1) - the thing with the volume control - and spray some in the controls.

The CP-1 is the volume control connected to the bottom of a speaker. How can you tell if it is the CP-1 or the amp module? Are you willing to take the subwoofer apart?

Don't worry about that sticky brown goo. That's just glue - it seems that everyone has it. Have you replaced the two resistors - R26 and R12? It seems to help some people.

Could be two things - your amp module for the sub is dead (rare) or your CP-1 volume control is broken (more common).

The wires inside of the cord carry only low voltages - the highest voltage is 15 VDC. You should be fine to solder the wire back on.