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rplace

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Posts posted by rplace

  1. Thanks guys for the lead on Linear Actuators. They seem to fit the bill nicely. Wide range of prices and lengths/force. I am not much of an electrical person so this is sort of fun to explore. I still have one question. Do you guys envision the set up to use the L.A. to still pull/push a cable attached to pulley system, or in some way mound the L.A. to the speaker directly or perhaps a shelf and raise/lower the speaker in a more direct manner? Do either of those scenarios make sense the way I described them?

    One other question - I see lots of motors for the actuators listed inches per minute would that be some function of the motors speed for lack of a better word or the actual inches the motor will extend/retract the rod. For example I see 8.4 inches per minute and 19.2 inches per minute. If it happened to be that the rod extends at a rate of 8.4 inches per minute and I want to move it over a foot that seems to be a long time to wait. I notice the Satellite movers tend to be slower and cost less then more industrial models? Is that because you need a more precise and thus slower movement to point the dish in the right spot?

    Thanks again, Rich

  2. Wow, guess I could not be more wrong in my assessment that 300 was way high. I just looked at it and it is already over that. mandi, not sure if you were posting to me, but if so what are you suggesting? I looked at the KLF-C7 specs and it is close in size but not quite a match. All I want is the Academy cabinet...no parts at all. If you are interested in the guts of the speaker I will for sure go in on it with you...or anybody else that wants to for that matter.

    On a side note I have 3 black Academys one with a mangled corner that I am trying to get UPS to make good on and an OO academy that I have had since day one new in box. It is looking like I will ultimately only need 3 of my 4 Academys, 2 will be used as sides on my 7.1 set up due to space problems with Heresys in the Rear. The 3rd will be used in my standard TV area concealed by a custom built cabinet. My problem is that the 2 used in the 7.1 set up really need to be OO, to match my Chorus/Forte/Heresy. So being that I have an extra to play with but need to end up with two OO and the 3rd I really don't care about I am open to suggestions.

    Rich

  3. I have been keeping an eye on this since the day is showed up. I purchased a black Academy, though I sorely need an Oak one, and it arrived yesterday. My original plan was to swap out my black components into this cabinet. Unfortunately my black one arrived yesterday and the corner was damaged in shipping 15.gif So now I REALLY need to get that cabinet. Hopefully my good Karma of not bidding on fellow forum member Lipinski when he was seriously in want of one will be repaid here.

    WFIW, I think the early suggestion of 300 is quite high, if the seller has damaged the driver and broken the binding post - my feeling is that you discount all the components and tell yourself that you are just buying a decent cabinet. If it turns out that the rest of components are working...then all the better. Guess that is the beauty of an auction, everybody has their price.

  4. Looking for some thoughts on how to pull this off. In my previous post:

    http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=57756&sessionID={B616DEFA-788B-42F7-9808-BDEDF35A14B4}

    DrWho and others had some great ideas for my room. I am now kicking around the idea of how to raise and lower one or more speakers from a location recessed up between the floor joists down to listening level. The area between my floor joists will nicely house either my Heresys or Academys. I have purchased some stainless steel aircraft wire and some pulleys to play around with. I dont think it will be too tough to figure out the rigging, but I am at a loss for how to automate it. I dont know much about electric motors, but would think something like a smaller version of a garage door opener. Something that has a forward and reverse and a way to limit the travel. This motor would then act like a winch taking up or letting out the aircraft wire to raise/lower the speaker. I have already determined I cannot get a completely flush mount in the ceiling when retracted, but a small protrusion will do.

    Anybody got any thought on how to make this work or where to buy the equipment needed?

    I have seen some pretty slick set ups for lowering a projector so it cant be that hard. I also have a trigger output on my projector to lower a screen. I wonder if that could be used to lower speakers instead?

    Thanks, Rich

  5. The mystery bidder is revealed.me.

    Kind of funny story I was composing this very related message

    http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=58117&sessionID={0E7922A4-B5E1-4F87-BA01-A786920DFB8A}

    when I decided to check ebay for an Academy. I was shocked to see the 3 up for bid. Not a great price at allbut certainly market value as of late. I was very surprised at the OO one that went for 680, as I had requested pix from the seller and it is in way worse shape then the black ones up today.

    I currently have an exceptional OO and my plans are to use either 2 of the Academys for sides or all 4 (3 from auction and mine) for rears/sides of a 7.1 set up. If I go the all 4 route I will need to Trade my OO Academy for a black one as I think having on Oak one in a batch of four might look odd.

    Anybody have three OOs they want to trade for three black ;-)

  6. Wondering if anyone out there has actually heard Academys used as surrounds? I remember when I bought my single Academy to compliment my Forte IIs way back in 1992, or there about, I asked the salesman when I save up some more money what would make good surrounds for that set up. He said my best bet would be two more Academys. I found that odd to use a center as surrounds, but he assured me it would sound great.

    Well I never did save up that money, fast forward 10+ years and two different houses and I am now building a dedicated theater. Drawing it out on paper and in mind I thought 4 Heresys for the rear part of a 7.1 set up would be the ultimate I could get in my room. However this weekend I actually put the equipment in the mostly finished room and I dont think it is going to be at all practical. As the framing gives way to drywall and speaker placementthe room just keeps shrinking. If you read any of my posts on ceiling mounts vs. speaker stands you know my dilemma with a set of double doors. I discovered that an Academy is the perfect size to fit above those doors and angle down toward the seating area. That got me to thinking not only cold I use them for sides of a 7.1 but also to rears to make the logistics of the room easier.

    So does anyone have any ear-time with Academys as surrounds in 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1??? What do you think? If not actual listening experience does anyone have an opinion on 4 Academys in place of 4 Heresys? I would really like to use the Heresys, but it is looking like at the very least I have to scrap my 7.1 plans in favor of 5.1 or 6.1

    BTW, my current Academy is OO. I know they are getting harder and harder to come by in decent shape and more and more expensive for that matter. But just for arguments sake lets assume I could snap my fingers and have four of either Heresys or Academys

    As usual, thanks for the input.

  7. Thanks for all the input, DrWho. I think I am going to explore 6.1 with one Heresy on the closet/shelf and the other Heresy and Forte mounted on the ceiling from a suspended platform of aircraft wire or threaded rod. These platforms will be in the same plane as that of the speaker on the shelf (read same height and distance from back wall). My thinking is that with some sort of platform I am not locked into a fixed location. Yes a fixed distance off the back wall, but I can rotate or change the angle a bit. Sort of a shelf but up from the back wall if you will. Also with this setup I could swap the forte out for my other heresy for checking performance. This will also spread out my two rears more then if I put all 3 on the back wall.

    Not to limit myself I think I will still run a set of 7.1 wires in the walls before I drywall. This way when I am looking for a project in the years to come I can give that a go.

    I am assuming I should put the heresys and forte upside down so woofer is closer to the ceiling, right? If I go with the heresys on their sides to give me more head room while moving around the room (that one is going to be close to the pocket door entrance) then I will put them with woofers toward the walls. Either way I think I will try and keep the single centered forte upside down and not on one side.

  8. Hmmm, I must be missing something here. In my past two homes I have had 5.1 and due to the room being used for a lot more then just a theater I had my surrounds mounted on the rear wall (mostly because I was missing all or part of a side wall). But it was my understanding in a perfect world you would want the surrounds mounted on either side or to the side and slightly back of the listening area. Even though most setup you see have the surrounds in or on the back wall I thought ideally they should be on the side walls. Is this not necessarily true?

    More or less as I am construction a HT from the ground up, yes I am stuck with the double doors and the space allotted but I dont have to worry about additional use. So my thinking was that even if I went the 5.1 route the first choice would be to have the two surround speakers on the side of the listening area at ear height. Next I thought if I went the 6.1 route I would just take the 5.1 optimal in my mind setup and add a rear center. If I went the 7.1 route I would just add two speakers in the rear instead of the one rear center.

    While it might be fun to say I have a 7.1 setup what I am really looking for is the right sound. I am totally fine with 5.1 or 6.1 if that is in my best interest. Currently I have 8 speakers to work with - more if I pirate some from my current upstairs system. In the heritage line I have Chorus, Forte II, two set of Heresy and an Academy.

    Again my thinking (flawed as it may be) was that if I went the rear wall method (read no side speakers) I would be losing a few feet of separation do to the closet/stairs in the back. That is why I reduced the height and made a shelf to widen the area in the back. How about one speaker on the closet shelf and another in roughly the same area on the other side suspended from the ceiling?

    For the sake of argument lets take the sides at ear level out of the equation and stick with 6.1. Do I want the three rears (LS, Rear Center, RS) to be on the same plane? Do I need them to be the same height? Do I need them to be the same speaker? To that final question consider that when I was thinking 7.1 I had 4 Heresys and 2 Forte IIs. My use of one Forte (center) would leave me with and extra Forte. If I put 3 Heresys across the back then I will still have the extra Forte, but will also have an extra Heresy. Might a better choice be to go with Heresy/Forte II/Heresy across the back? That leaves me a full set of Heresy to play with elsewhere in the house. For the time being I dont think I want to use the Fortes as surrounds a put a Heresy in the Center. I believe Chorus/Forte/Chorus up front will work nicer together then Chorus/Heresy/Chorus, but will probably experiment once the room is done.

    BTW, I totally like the idea of the some pulley system that raises and lowers the side speaker excellent wow factor! However, this morning I stood and looked at the room for a long time with my current heresy on the shelf and the fake in the ceiling. That puts two powerful speakers within a few feet of each other (overkill perhaps?). So if I dont really NEED the surrounds to be on the sides I think it might be best to use fewer speakers and move them back. Question now is completely on the back wall (cant with the one on the closet unless it is in front of the other two or I forgo the closet and put it next to wall created by closet) or put one on the closet/shelf and put the other two inline with the closet. This would mandate some way of ceiling mounting or suspending from threaded rods or cable.

    I am open to any and all ideasso keep em coming

    Many thanks for all the ideas and advice, Rich

  9. Here is my lame attempt at dimensions of the room. Let me know if you need more. Not quite to scale. The wall with the screen is 13 feet wide the room is 16 feet deep. Closet around stairs is about 2X3. Other then the small area by the pocket door the room is basically 13X16.

    floorplan.JPG

    Thanks for any and all help, Rich

  10. Due to some basement equipment (pump diaphragm for my well) I needed to move to open up the room but could not move it to where the furnace/etc. is I had to construct a closet to hide it. Then it dawned on me that putting the rack in the wall of that same closet would kill two birds with one stone AND get the equipment to rear/side of the room away from the screen. However the pump diaphragm takes up most of the foot print of the closet up to a height of about 2 feet. So my rack is actually mounted up high enough so the bottom piece of equipment will clear the diaphragm. Maybe I could construct something to cover the diaphragm that would also function as a shelf. Then put all the amps at the bottom of the rack resting on that newly created shelf. As stated earlier the ears would more or less cover the actual rails and with the handles still on the amps should look nice.

    Keep those ides coming guysand dont forget to give me your .02 worth on my Heresy surrounds in the ceiling or on speaker stands see Ceiling mount or speaker stands? post please.

    Thanks for all the input!

  11. My original plan was to rack mount the Carver stuff and buy shelves for the rest. I thought that would keep with the rack look and provide for all of my needs. If I space the rails narrower to fit the Carver stuff I cannot then use standard spacers/vents/panels. So far it looks to me that a shelf for every component will add up quickly (4 amps, preamp, DVT, HTPC, Music Server, etc.) as the shelves are not all that cheap. I like the rack mounted look and as minn_male42 pointed out the ears might still give that rack look when in a shelfnot a bad idea.

    colterphoto1 had a great idea to make in effect two racks. One narrower for Carver stuff and one standard width. I think I will give this some thought and exploration. I would think with some creative trimming where the rack meets the drywall I can make it appear as one rack.

    Access is really not an issue the rack is being built in the side of a closet that is pretty deep.

    Tomski, thanks for the heads up on the spacingwould not want the Carver stuff to offset the rest. I cant really figure out why the carver stuff lines up on some sets of holes and not on other, but my Midatlantic rails do look like the holes are grouped and not evenly spaced.

    FYI the TMF-25 amps are about a 3 space height.

  12. I need some input from the rest of you. I have two goals here and think there is a good chance they conflict.

    1 Great sound wanted

    2 Nice looking or wow factor

    My HT has a 6 foot wide double door located directly below a steel beam. Just after the end of the door is a closet that hides the basements steps. Moving the double doors, steel beam or closet is not an option. I have already ripped out the finished closet/door that was there in favor of a lower door with a shelf to make room for rear speakers. Please see the pictures below with explanations. The entire wall is pretty much door or wall space that the doors open back onto.

    I am considering putting a set of Heresys in the ceiling for my surrounds. Pros in my mind are: Looks cool, does not interfere with door operation, looks cool, and oh yea, I think it would look cool. Cons are: have to figure out how to pull it off, might not be optimal sound, no future movement of the speaker once finished. My other option would be to get some sort of speaker stand and put them in front of the one door at ear level. You can always open just one door and if need be when not in use I could move the speaker/stand to open the doors.

    1LeftWall.JPG

    This is pretty much the entire wallon far right you can see a piece of front wall on far left you can see the start of the closet. That black vertical line is where the door edge is when fully open. Check out the Greyhound on the couch outside the room. He does not use the surfboard in the corner much since he retired from the track.

    2Rear1.JPG

    This is the corner of wall in question and back wall. The shelf built from reducing closet height will hold on of the rear speakers. NOTE upper right corner of picture. I have constructed a cardboard heresy to test fit my option of ceiling mounting. More on that below.

    3DoorCloset.JPG

    Here you can see cardboard Heresy in the ceiling just clearing the operation of the door and relation to back speaker on shelf.

    4CBKlipsch.JPG

    Opposite wall from the one with the double doors. My second option would be to place the Heresy surrounds on stands at ear level when seated. Does not have the wow factor as ceiling mounts, but surely easier and would provide for movement of speakers as needed.

    I see a lot of talk about custom speaker cabinets on the forum here. Ill start taking order for these as soon as I finish the room. Excellent attention to detail as well as craftsmanship.

    5DoorCloset.JPG

    Better shot of ceiling mount and rear. Speaker has to be fairly flat and that tell me it points down a bit too much. Would I be sacrificing sound quality for speakers up and out of the way?

    Any other thoughts on my options? Any advice as to which is better? Thoughts on how to actually do the mounting if I move forward with ceiling mount?

  13. Well, at least I am not going insane in my thought patterns. I built the rack with the standard spacing thinking I can use any standard shelf/vent/spacer/etc. It is a shame it is not standard spacing. Sort of deceiving on Carvers part in my book. I remember buying some of that equipment back in 1992 thinking some day I will have a wall of rack mounted equipment. Well, good marketing on their part. Live and learn.

    Now how can I get some one to fabricate me just the right sized piece from aluminum?

    FYI for any other carver TFM owners. The vertical spacing matches up as you move it around the railsnot every setyou have to play with it a bit.

  14. In an earlier post

    http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=57146&forumID=69&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={E5D6FA1F-26D3-4FA2-B179-9A1A5E6EE564}

    I got a lot of great information about building a 19 rack for my equipment. Well this morning I got all my parts together and went to build it and have either run into a problem or dont understand something basic about rack mounted equipment. Please set me straight.

    I purchased some blank spacers for the rack so I could get my rails the correct width and keep everything square during construction. With the rails and spacers assembled I measured the center to cent space of the rails it is 18.25 inches. Just to be sure I measured the distance between my equipment holes center to center with the rack handles removed it is 17.75 inches. The equipment happens to be 3 Carver TFM-25 amps, a Carver AV-60 Four amp and a Carver CT-17 preamp. All Carver all the same width. I dont have any other rack mountable equipment to compare to.

    When using rack mountable equipment dont you simply take the handles off, put equipment in the rails and hold it in place with the screws??? Am I confused on how to mount the equipment or does my Carver equipment have non-standard spacing?8.gif

    Thanks, Rich

  15. Interesting, because that is the exact projector I was considering over the Runco. I would think between 3k and 9k (Aprox MSRP) that there must be some benefit I am not seeing...but I am finding it really hard to justify the extra 6K. I can buy it locally for $2,199. Thanks for the tip on the FL company. Looking more and more like Runco it out.

    Thanks!

  16. In the interest of public service the only recommendation I would make as the receiver of the package would be to giggle/settle the peanuts then add more to make them denser. They settled a lot during shipping and there was lots of air space. This let the box become beat up and mushy instead of stiff. But since they arrived safe and sound I am not complaining.

    Thanks again, Brad

  17. I bought the HBR Heresys that Brad Marshall (Redtop) was selling a couple of weeks back. All I can say is great packaging and excellent communication. Brad was a pleasure to deal with and an all around nice guy. I would not hesitate to do business with him again, nor should you.

    Thanks, Brad

  18. Man, you guy are the best. So far this week you have set me straight on the single Forte for my center and its orientation. The right way to figure the screen height from the floor up and how/why to put my Heresys on their sides in the rear. Many many thanks!

    So on to the question of the day. I thought I was pretty smart as I finished off the rest of my basement last fall prior to the HT work that is in order this fall. I put a 1.5 inch PVC pipe running the 40 feet from the nasty side of basement (read furnace, water heater, etc.) to the finished side. My thinking was that I could pull any future wires through it. I had a local A/V store come check out my space and put the sell to me on some equipment I still need (tuner/preamp/processor, screen, and projector). We talked about wires for projector and future expandability for Crestron and cat 5, coax, etc. Anyway, I mentioned the pipe and that I was going to pull my dedicated 20 amp circuit for equipment and 15 amp circuit for miscellaneous lights through that pipe along with the 2 cat 5s, extra coax, and 2nd room speaker wires that they suggested I do. They said it was a bad idea to have a long run of romex/power in conjunction with the other wires/cables.

    So what is ok? The PVC pipe sits in the cavity created by an I-beam running the length of basement. So I have about 6 inches top to bottom in that cavity. Can I run some of the wires in the pipe and fish some outside the pipewill that be sufficient? Is there anyway to shield things? What sort of spacing do I need between power and other cables? If they must/should go in completely different paths I am really in trouble because the rest of the basement is already dry walled, painted, trimmed and finished. I might be able to get another complete run of PVC in that cavity. That would provide two PVC pipes sitting on top of each other. I doubt what ever the electromagnetic problems that are in question would be negated by two wall of PVC pipe. Would it?

    Thanks again! Rich

    BTW, the equipment in need referred to above is shaping up to be:

    Stewart Screen, Sunfire Theater Grand III or IV, and a Runco D-710 projector. Projector looks great, but the price is high when you just look at similar features and specs of other projectors. Any thoughts/advice on any or all of this equipment???

  19. Since you all did so well earlier in the week giving me info on one center channel speaker or two and helped out with screen height (Thanks colterphoto1, Olorin, Strabo, DrWho, radiob, dougdrake) I now turn to you for round 2.

    Looking like my rear Heresys will need to go on their sides close to the ceiling. If all goes well stealing the idea where they are mounted in the ceiling angled down like the recent pix posted. My question is do I put the top horns in toward the center of the room or out toward the side walls? Once we establish what way they go can you give me a reason to satisfy my curiosity?

    Thanks, Rich

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