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rplace

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Everything posted by rplace

  1. I work with a woman that lives on Marry Jane Lane, she once told me how often her street sign gets stolen and she did not understand why none of the others in the neighborhood did. I clued her in on what MJ referred to and she was floored. "Well, I had no idea those kids are just terrible". No lie true story.
  2. My 87 Khorns had a metal horn and AK-2 XOs
  3. But it can't just go to nothing can it? I'm curious about the mechanics of how it works. If it works such that the owner of the fund/etf decides they don't want to play anymore they simply can't say it is worth nothing. Don't they have to buy back all outstanding shares? If that were so and we knew it wouldn't the street just keep buying until that day to inflate the price? I get when GM went out of business if you had shares they were worth nothing, but GM effectively went out of business. New company new shares, old shares worthless. If that were the case and a index fund for the S&P 500 went up quickly like the end of 19 beginning of 20 the fund company, say MFS can't just say sorry we are closing our doors....can they? From what I read it sounded like Credit Suise <sp> was deciding not to play. I didn't feel like the actual exchange they are traded on said we don't think you are worthy like sometimes happens to a shrinking company.
  4. I too like Schiit products, I currently have a Freya + pre. Agree with @CECAA850 that you are most likely to hear what others currently have or want to buy. Like the OP I've also had a few Sonos Connects around the house for casual dinner/party/pool/drinking music. I very much resisted the digital urge in my music room in favor of a turntable and vinyl. Recently the convenience and ADD got the best of me and I started to dip my toe in the waters of something better than the Sonos. I started a similar thread over in two channel. You might want to give it a look lots of good info from others there. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/190406-dac-suggestions/ My must have was balanced XLR connections, so that limited a lot of the cheaper options. While I've not pulled the trigger on anything very expensive I have picked up both a Raspberry Pi 4 with HiFi Berry + DAC and something I found out over at the Roon forums I knew nothing about. Orchard Audio Pecan Pi. It is quite the little package. Dual mono Burr Brown DACs, separate linear power supply for the DAC that in turn powers the RPI3, all in a really nice case. I wish I found it before the RPI 4/HiFi Berry because it sounds great and does not break the bank, plays HighRez files including DSC all for about the cost of a Sonos Connect. You could probably buy one while you shop for the ultimate solution and sell it down the road and only be out the cost of a nice dinner and bottle of wine. Fantastic little plug and play Roon endpoint. Here are the specs on it: https://orchardaudio.com/pecanpi#5e660ba9-cda1-4297-a124-7c006f40563a Good luck, let us know what you end up with.
  5. @Jeffrey D. Medwin Help me understand why TVIX is getting delisted. How does it work if you are currently holding shares of it? What happens between now and the time those 9 get delisted. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/credit-suisse-ag-announces-its-intent-to-delist-and-suspend-further-issuances-of-its-velocityshares-etns-301080971.html
  6. rplace

    What I Got Today!

    Must be back to school shopping time already.
  7. Remind me again how to do that, please? I seem to remember when I was using an ordered/named crossover you looked at that value say 400Hz for example, and placed your cursor on one of the curves to read the amount of milliseconds it was off. Not having a High Pass and Low Pass at an exact value I don't recall how to do it. Thanks!
  8. By the dashed line jumping left or right abruptly, not having a smooth curve to the right and down, correct? As I am hardly good enough at this to help myself let alone anyone else, I find myself doing just that....round robin iterations. PEQs, XOs, Delay, repeat, repeat, repeat to arrive at the flattest phase and least amount of PEQs. Lately I've had a hard time matching up what the spectrogram and Group Delay are telling me. So if I end up with GDs below 2ms I just let that be and use the Spectrogram exclusively to set the delay. Is that a reasonable approach?
  9. @Chris A I've been doing #2 after #5. How would you set delay correctly before implementing the no name crossover in #5? I must be missing part of the concept.....not the first time. I thought it was basically Flatten Highs Flatten Lows Gain Match Cross where the drivers tell you to be closely matched in phase and use PEQs to do that high/low crossing Use group delay and spectrogram to set the delay (adjust polarity as necessary). This is still the most difficult for me. I spend many hours messing with spectrogram. Any additional pointers on how to attack that in a more systematic way would be greatly apprciated Flatten more with input PEQs Listen and wonder why you didn't make the jump to Active DSP sooner
  10. @Rudy81 NOTE that Chris is saying and NOT shelf filters. I've switched to using only PEQs on mine. ie no shelf filters.
  11. I'm totally going from memory, but as I was reading this from the first post I was thinking 26' was the width between khorn corners. I had no recollection of depth or ceiling height. So your 26 above jives with my memory from buying mine in 2004.
  12. It's not that hard. You just have to learn the steps and apply them in the right order. Time consuming at first.
  13. Not really. Not in the sense it is carrots and beans and sprouts chopped up and pressed into a patty. They are highly processed foods, with lots of sodium. They have about the same nutrition good and bad as similar sized beef patties. Don't get me wrong I buy them, cook them and eat then. The look and texture compared to more traditional veggie burgers is nothing short of amazing. They are perfect for the lunk head who pounds his chest and says I only eat meat and potatoes. If you think they are healthy or good for you. You better think again. Not the type of stuff you grab in the produce aisle.
  14. rplace

    Yo, saw dudes

    I need to trim this out. If you are heading to them please ask for ballpark price. longest length at bottom is 29.5"
  15. rplace

    Yo, saw dudes

    Given the task at hand and I'll have it next time I need it I don't think that price is off the charts. It is 1/6 thick, BTW. I make my living with my fingers so point taken about safety. Thanks! I read online, dangerous I know, to apply painters tape to cut area to reduce flying bits. Will also brace with wood block and clamp to fence. I cut aluminum t-track with fine tooth hacksaw for a drill press table/fence. It was not pleasant and they were 90* cuts. These will be 45* for trim work. I'm hoping for cleaner results.
  16. rplace

    Yo, saw dudes

    I found a model number buried up under it. MS1250LZ1 1" arbor 4,000 RPM unloaded....I guess that means it spins at 4K when not being thrown up against a 2x4 So we are in agreement that as long as it has a 1 inch arbor and is rated at 4,000 RPM or greater I should be good with a 10" blade?
  17. rplace

    Yo, saw dudes

    Thanks @CECAA850 I figured if I got a smaller one I would not have the range to cut as wide/deep of material and have to lower the arm more, but since I only want to cut 3/4 inch angle I figured a 10 inch should be fine, no? It has a retractile guard around the blade when lifted, the mechanism on the saw pulls it away when the arm is lowered will that interfere with things if I put a smaller blade on it?
  18. rplace

    Yo, saw dudes

    I have a Ridgid compound miter saw (I think it is called). The blade tilts left/right when looking at it straight one, as well as pivots 45 degrees when looking from above. It does not slide forward or back when cutting, (toward or away from you). Great for cutting 2x4s to length or base board molding, even crown molding. I've only ever used the standard (probably cheap) blade that came with it. Now I want to cut some 3/4" aluminum angle and I want it to be precise and clean. I gather from looking on-line that I need a non-ferrous blade. However most of them seem to be 7-1/4inch or 10inch. Do I need a 12 inch blade since it seems to be designed for a 12 inch blade? Also, do they all have the same size hole in the center to mount them or do I need to know a bit more about my saw before I buy a blade. I can't seem to find a model number on it. I'm reasonably sure it is a 12 inch blade as my circular saw is 7-1/4 and my table saw is 10" and this is bigger....I've not removed it but putting a tape measure as close to the center as I can it is right at a 6" radius. What say you lords of the saw? Thanks!
  19. Music in various rooms/locations around the house or all in one room for home theater?
  20. Panic! at the Disco. I just made my afternoon coffee and I'm out of expresso beans. Come on Atomic Coffee get that order delivered.
  21. rplace

    RIP Jimmy Cobb

    Oh, bummer. One of my favorites. I saw him along with Cobb's Mob in a small venue. The drum kit was front and center with all the supporting musicians to the side and behind.
  22. And/or something like ToolShed
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