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KMyers

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Posts posted by KMyers

  1. The impedance response you get from T/S params is at best an approximation and especially not very accurate at the higher frequencies (where the crossover will be occuring). Also, the stock networks are built to compensate for frequency response abberations in the drivers.

    I'm not saying that a better network can't be built, but relying on impedance predictions and assumptions about the phase and frequency response isn't likely to yield better results - even if you use super fancy parts in the network.

    To engineer a better network I really feel that you'll need some level of measuring capability (which can be done for under $200). The nice thing is that with the measuring capability, you no longer need to worry about the information you're requesting...you can just measure your actual system with all the environmental factors included (like age, temperature, humidty, etc...).

    So apart from being a better approach, it's going to be your only approach unless you get the data you're requesting.

    You are a 100% right but i just figured if i had the specs it would save me some money right now because I'm sure i will upgrade speakers shortly and i doubt i would ever use that equipment ever again. And do you really think Klipsch puts that much time and effort into building those crossovers to compensate for frequency response aberrations? At best i would say they measured a couple sets of drivers when they came out and said well this what they need to be and gave the schematic to China and said here we need 20,000 of these by next month. So i think you get what you get. And the internal wiring leaves allot to be desired along with the build quality of the cabinet. The main reason i have these speakers is because at the time i didn't know what i know now and i got them for 300$ for the pair brand new in the box.When Sound Advice a.k.a Tweeter stopped selling them. I had a friend on the inside. Now don't get me wrong they sound good for what they are but i know what i hear and they have way more potential then what I'm getting from them. So i just want to make them the best they can be. The drivers are great it is just everything that goes with them that is not up to par. But again i cant complain,especially for what i have in them.

  2. You don't use T/S params for building crossovers...you'll need to use the impedance response.

    What's wrong with the existing network?

    Well i can get the impedance responce from the T/S params and the network that is in there is not even close to anything audiophile quality. It will basicly be the same but less and better parts

  3. Well i have a few questions,I have a pair of KSF-10.5's and im thinking of turning them into a pair of bookshelfs. Now the 10.5 have dual 8'' drivers so of course i will only be using one. But should the enclosure for the bookshelf be ported or sealed? And either way how do i find the specs of the drivers to determine what size the enclosure should be if it is sealed or what size port ect.ect. Any help would be great thanks guys!!!

  4. I have a Yamaha MX1 you can have for 350$ plus shipping. It will more than push anything you have and is stable to one ohm. Shipping would be high i think because it is like 60lbs. But let me know it works great im just not using it anymore just sitting in my rack.

  5. Im planning on building new enclosures for my KSF10.5's and while im at it i want to put some better crossovers in them. It has been a while since i have been on this site but i thought i remember someone on here making custom crossover for people? If so who was it and do they still do that? Im not sure what i need but im pretty sure the factory crossovers can be improved upon. Im going to make the same size box just a lot more ridgid than factory.

    Thanks!

  6. I had thought of that also. Do you think that would sound better? Im looking for the best sound from the situation that im in. Not so much worried about cosmetics. What would be the main difference between mounting them flat on the ceiling and having a pair of in ceilings? Other than the fact that they are dipoles:-) Who knows i may try a few different ways and just see what works. The way i was going to mount them flat was,i was going to remove the center driver and screw thru the back of the enclosure in to a piece of wood in the attic.

  7. I have a pair of SS1's as rears and i have them on stands behind my couch. But i also have a 11month old son that loves to yank on wires and try to pull them over on his head. So my question is how would they sound mounted to the ceiling firing straight down?

  8. I say dont worry with the 7.1 for starters. Nothing is really decoded in it anyway so all your getting are like ghost channels. Stick with what you have. and get the SVS sub. You will never beat that sub for the money. Right now SVS is back ordered on the black ones thoe. Im waiting on one my self. The RC35 will be fine also.

  9. I have a pair of these speakers and they are fairly new as far as hours go,and was wondering if they are worth my time to build new boxes? I want them to preform better than stock and sound as good as possible! But component wise are they good enough? I dont want to waste my time building boxes for them if when i get done they sound the same! Or should i just sell them and buy some RF-5's? The reason i wante the RF-5's is because they are as close to what i have in size and looks but at the same time they are reference! Everyone says RF-7's but i think that would be a little over kill for my amp and my Theater/Listening room! Thanks in advance for info you can give me! My room is 11.5'Wx 17'Lx 9'H if that helps or is needed!

  10. ----------------

    On 6/8/2005 4:21:40 PM nicholtl wrote:

    "<a
    http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/Hometheater 21.jpg">

    ----------------

    DUUUUDE you ahve a ton of equiptment!!! What is all that stuff? Do you have a list some where on here?

  11. Well i had thought about something like that but,im trying to avoid permits and property tax increases3.gif I figured if i did all inside and left the outside still looking like a garage maybe i wont get caught2.gif Plus the wall i build infront of the garage door will be the wall that holds the projection screen. And if there were windows behind it it may hinder the picture quality during the day time. From what i hear projectors dont like a lot of light? Im going to take pics of the whole thing from the time i start to the end result and will post them as i go so i can get some quality input. Ideas may change as i go who knows. Right now there is a Jeep wrangler siting in my theater9.gif

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