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John Pearlman

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Everything posted by John Pearlman

  1. Yeah that is just a bondo drip, someone drilled a hole previously to get some monster cable into the woofer chamber and drilled it in the wrong spot. It's all filled up now. John
  2. Hi First off Happy Thanksgiving. Secondly, thank you for the advice. I'm going to definitely rebuild the xovers and perhaps flush mount the tweeters. However, the k33's will have to come sometime down the road. I checked Ebay and the last G135-8 I saw only went for somewhere around $40. This seems like a bargain to me for a really nice 15" woofer but than again something is only worth what people are willing to pay for it. I'll have some updated pictures later today I hope of the speakers; the one I am working on currently is coming along quite nicely. Thanks John
  3. Hi I checked the number, it is the G-135-8 woofer. You said this is OK; I checked the specs and they seem close but some are way off. I'll probably run with these for a while and get the K33's at a later date. In any event, they seem like much nicer drivers than the K33 but than again if the specs aren't correct the speaker will still sound bad no matter how nice the driver is. Thanks John
  4. Hi Bob I think I'm going to machine some PVC or Delrin brackets for the caps or perhaps even some wooden ones. How much do your brackets cost? I am also interrested in your use of spade lugs for connections to the caps; why not solder them directly? I would assume this is a better connection. Thanks John
  5. Hi Bob Thanks for pointing that out. As long as the value won't affect the performance I don't mind because I will be building a new crossover board anyway. Thanks John
  6. Ok, sounds like a plan. I figured it wouldn't matter because it is so close and the caps Klipsch used probably didn't measure exactly 13 to begin with. It would be a much cleaner layout to boot. Thanks John
  7. Got a crossover question for you guys. I have to redo the AA networks in my La Scalas and I have decided to go with the standard GE motor run caps as suggested by Bob Crites. My question is this: The Grainger book lists 12.5uf caps and I need a 13uf. I can do a 3uf and a 10uf in series but a single cap would look cleaner. Could I get away with .5uf difference or would it really effect the sound? I suppose to properly rebuild them I should do the two in series, but what are your thoughts? Thanks for your time John
  8. Hi I haven't made any phone calls yet but I'll probably do so soon. What is the ballpark price per yard/what should I expect to pay? I'll probably also do a little digging at the local fabric place. I can't use the stock grills becasue the speakers are custom. Thanks John
  9. Thanks guys, I'll give him a call. Thanks John
  10. Does anyone know where to get grill cloth just like Klipsch used on the Khorn and Belle? I need them for my La Scala project and I don't want to use the el-cheapo stuff from Parts Express. I really like the high quality look of the weaved cloth. Thanks John
  11. The way I routed it the MDF only protruded into the chamber about 1/16", which reduces the volume about 9 cubic inches IF the opening is 1 square foot which I don't think it is. I doubt you could notice this difference and even so the air leak between the woofer and board would probably negate it. But yeah, it is a lot of work and weatherstripping would be fine I believe. If you wanted, you could get 1/2" weatherstripping and rout a little 3/16" track for it to sit in......I'm getting carried away again.
  12. Hi You responded to my post "La Scala Resto" so it's time to return the favor. For my bases, I'm going to rout a 1/4" deep and 15" square recess centered around the hole for the woofer. This will be the "female" and I'm going to attatch a piece of 1/4" thick MDF the bottom of the bases for the "male". Thus, the base will be located on the bottom on the speaker and I'll just have to put a little 1/4" foam weatherstripping around the edge of the woofer cutout. This should seal em' pretty good without much mess. John
  13. Pics of them sanded an ready for "veneer", new base at the bottom=#1 "Veneer"
  14. Yes, four drops of adhesive are what I am talking about. Thank you very much, I KNEW someone here had taken one of these apart before. OK, I feel better now. Tofu, Yes, they are quite the restoration but I only paid $400 so I don't mind. I was contemplating building a pair before I saw these so I snapped them up. It doesn't matter anyway; incidentially I sold a Carver TF 35 to a gentleman from Craigslist for $400 about a week before so the money wasn't really in the bank or anything, it was just in my pocket burnin' a hole through my trousers. I have about 25 hours in them already; new veneer on the sides, cone and "floor" of the cone as well as new 2" riser bases built for both. However, I still have to start on the other speaker. So its going to be a long project but it will be worth it. I will trim out the front with 3/8" oak and build a grille for the horns. I am also building grills for the bass bin. I am actually using a method I have used in the past; construction adhesive and 4x8 sheets of 1/4" birch veneer plywood from the depot. So my costs are low and the wood will be durable. I scoffed at this too until I finished about 10 sets of speakers like this with no ill results. I'm only spending $50 for two sheets and the construction adhesive so I'm happy and I have plenty of lead to weigh the pieces down with. I wil post some pics later today of the progress. I have a lot of blood sweat and tears in these already; I had to carry them down 8 flights of stairs to get them out of the building because the guy's freight elevator was broken. When he came down the stairs my first impression was "biker" and I thought he lived in the building. But when I walked up with him (the whole time I'm thinking how the hell am I going to get these out of here at 130 lbs/piece) I arrived at a beautiful cabinetmaker's shop that was in no way indicative of his appearance (no I'm not being stereotypical and don't have anything against bikers but you just don't expect to find a fine woodworking shop at the top of a bombed out old factory when you are led up the stairs by an heaily adorned gentleman) But all in all I am very happy, the guy was extremely nice (I just rememberd his name is John like me) and I have a new project.
  15. Yeah, actually I bought them off a guy in West Orange from Craigslist, don't remember his name and I've deleted our e-mails. As for the tweeter, did I break it?
  16. Hi I'm restoring a set of La Scalas and I have a few questions: 1) I took the cast lens off the tweeter to paint it. However, upon doing so I broke the glue joint between the back of the "bullet" in the lens and the plastic piece which holds the diaphragm. I'm sure someone here has taken one of these tweeters apart before and knows what I am talking about; its kind of hard to explain. The question is should I reglue this and if so what should I use? Epoxy? Jb Weld? 2) Crossovers: Since I am restoring these cosmetically I would also like to restore the crossover somehow. It is an AA. An ALK unit is out of the question budget wise, so what would be a good alternative? Should I recap it with the same value caps or leave it alone? What about the inductors, any recommended upgrades? Should I build a completely new crossover with the same value parts? I am assuming the inductors are OK; they can't really degrade I guess. 3) The woofers on these were replaced with JBL's from the mid 90's, I believe the number is something like E-135-8, I can check later. I think the stock K-33 is 4ohm, whereas these woofers are 8 ohm. Should I sell the new ones on Ebay and pick up some K 33's? I know the La Scalas don't have the lowest bass response but would replacing with the stock woofer help? When I got the speakers home and tested them they seemed OK so what do you Klipsch guru's recommend? Thanks for your input John P.S. You guys have a great board here; its a treasure trove of information.
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