[Klipschorn upgrades which ones help]

 Not technically "new" to this forum, but for a variety of reasons I haven't visited here for a LONG time! (OK like 7 years! lol)
But mostly due to some down-sizing I had sold off my LaScalas and Khorns many years ago.
BUT

Recently I caught the bug again and picked up another nice pair of walnut Khorns (1980) that are essentially untouched and in need of some love and was specifically interested in the Volti Audio upgrades from Greg Roberts. (listening impressions, value, customer service etc.)
 

I searched, but couldn't find much on here- is there a dedicated Volti thread I've missed??

Thanks

WopOnTour
 

 

 

[Microscope for Stylus Inspection]

Yikes! Is that what a dust bunny looks like?

No THIS is a dust bunny!

What is is crawling on and what is the magnification?

It's a "MEMS" (Micro-Electro Mechanical System) geartrain used in a highly integrated instrumentation system.

Here's a "close-up" LOL

WOT

[Microscope for Stylus Inspection]

Yikes! Is that what a dust bunny looks like?

No THIS is a dust bunny! []

[woofer damage due to shipping?]

Yes, but that was probably standing upright correct? These were apparenty laying down with the cones facing down on tha back of a high-boy trailer. I really not sure if this could cause damage either, but I'd thought I'd ask the group. I really like the sorting bar idea to add back-emf induced self damping- good idea!

Thanks

[woofer damage due to shipping?]

Just wondering if anyone here has heard of or experienced and sort of woofer damage, from shipping Khorns (truck frieght) with the speaker cabinets laying flat on a pallet, i.e. front face down? Is there anyway that on the rough ride (trailers dont have much for suspension) the woofers might get bounced to the point they would exceed maximum excursion and be damaged? Could this cause a voice coil to go open circuit? OR should the suspension of the surround and spider be able to control the mechanical travel when hanging upside down like this???

Let's just say this is all 'hypothetically" at this point. []\

Thanks to any/all replies

WopOnTour

[Microscope for Stylus Inspection]

You need to clean it before looking at it, that think is encrusted with gunk.

Once it is clean you need to look straight down at it, not from the side.

The groove contact portion will look like two grains of rice. When they get 'fat' looking, or lack symetry, it's worn out.

You mean like this?? []

[Microscope for Stylus Inspection]

I purchased an Intel QX3 (Play) microscope off eBay for ~$15, shipped. It connects to a computer by USB cable, has 60x to 200x magnification, a decent depth of field and is reasonably easy to focus.

This is what I use as well. Works awesome IMO (although some will say that even at 200X it isnt enough)

There's also a few websites that describe tweaks and improvements that can be made to the QX3, really a great "toy" LOL

Here's an example (not focused real well but you get the idea)

[K-Horn Finish Codes?]

I realize that of course, but in this case those are not what's stamped into the bass bin and tailboard

The only other stamped ID numbers (besides USA) are BB11 and BB22 inside each of the top-hats

[:^)]

I suppose it might be rosewood, as I'm certainly no expert on woodgrains, I'll take some photos maybe...

WOT

EDIT: Here's a photo, is this rosewood?

[K-Horn Finish Codes?]

Does anyone know what a finish code "RC" means??

I believe the "R" is for rosewood , but these dont look like rosewood to me, more like walnut.

Originally thought that the stamping was "RO" but after looking at both speakers more closely they definately say "RC"

I cant find that code ANYWHERE on ANY database for Klipsch finishes

Just an error maybe? Couldnt find the "O" so used a "C"?

Thanks for any help

Regards

WopOnTour

BTW> I believe them to be 1980 models- serial numbers 16U793 and 794

[Please explain]

Thanks for the review

I was thinking of picking one of these up as I'm a fan of Mark's work

All I care about is the musical results, the L/R issue (assuming it exists and isnt just your unit) is but a minor inconvenience IMO.

I just keep plugging and poking into holes until until satisfaction is achieved! []

Regards

WopOnTour

[Souped-up Carver Amps]

I'm a "back in the day" Carver fan as well

I too had a M-400t and a C-1 combo and loved the detail

The 400t failed beyond reasonable repair in the late 80s but I still have (and use) the C1, which I recapped about 8 years ago.

I've been desperately trying to get my hands on Bob's latest creations , here's a photo (yes, 6xKT88 per side)

WopOnTour

[Juicy Music builds a better mouse trap]

Just wow. That poor rodent may have discovered the worlds fastest cure for migranes-

671,000,000 mph!

But to ^above^

You don't have to travel to a 3rd world shhhheee-it hole to find rampant copper theft (and Darwin candidates) these days.

Just Google "copper theft"

In fact the FBI recently spins it as follows:

http://arstechnica.com/news.ars/post/20081204-fbi-widespread-copper-theft-puts-us-infrastructure-at-risk.html

WopOnTour

[K-horn are in the house / thanks frzn]

That amp is FAR from ugly IMO... BEAUTIFUL!

If you dont like the exposed transfomer/chokes you could always add some "dress" covers. K&K Audio had some nice ones I seen a while back...

Still, I'd love to hear that 6c33 amp

WopOnTour

[Help a noob switch to tubes]

I came into a bit of money recently, and am seriously considering making the switch to tubes. I have a 2006 set of LaScalas and a Hsu sub. Currently running Rega SS. I don't want to fiddle fart around modifying old tubed gear, just plug and play. Also, no offense to China, but I want American gear. What about Crites' stuff? Oh, I only want to spend around $3000 total for an amp and preamp. Thoughts? I also don't want to lose that killer tight bass SLAM I get at higher volumes with SS.

$3000 for "Made in the USA" quality?

Well my first impulse would be a heap'n help'n of vintage HK Citation I+II or a Conrad Johnson combo, but since your not interested in messing around too much with older used gear, my best advice would be Ms. EveAnna Manley. http://www.manleylabs.com/hifimain99.html

For ~$2250 you can go integrated (w/ 4 line inputs) via the 40wpc Stingray.(If you dont think 40 watts/ch is going to do it for you with LaScalas, think again!)

If you absolutely won't warm to an "integrated" solution then putting a Shrimp + a pair of Mahi monoblocks on th Bar-B ($4300 total) would probably be my next recommendation, despite going a bit ($1300) over your budget. The good news is these Manley amps really tend to hold up their resale value, so if you wanted to upgrade after a while to a pair of 100wpc Snappers (or better yet the Neo-Classic line) you wouldnt be out that much.

Manley=Top Shelf Gear

JMO

WopOnTour

[Neil Young announces North American 2008 Fall Tour.]

I was told there was absolutely no reserved floor seating in any of the Canadian venues, just GA (General Admission) on a First-Come-First-Seated Only

Please let me know if you find out otherwise

Thanks

WOT

[Neil Young announces North American 2008 Fall Tour.]

4 hours ago Neil Young announced North American 2008 Fall tour. I hope to land some good seats via the fan club presale for the Aire Canada Centre in Toronto and the Nokia in Ottawa. Same band as the 2007 fall tour. If anyone has info on presale dates please post.

The Canadian venue tickets are available NOW on the Neil Young fan site (via MusicToday.com)

www.neilyoung.com

Canadian Dates via:

http://neilyoungcad.tickets.musictoday.com/NeilYoungCAD/calendar.aspx

USA dates (presale still unavailable) via:

http://neilyoung.tickets.musictoday.com/NeilYoung/calendar.aspx

AFAIK all other Canadian passworded presales (such as local radio stations and Nokia Ticket Rush) dont start until tommorrow (8/21/08)

Got mine!!

( for Calgary Saddledome)

But a test purchase for a pair of "best available" seats for the Air Canada Centre revealed:

Section: 118, Row: 21, Seat: 17

Section: 118, Row: 21, Seat: 18

Which are great side-stage seats @$250 each (the floor is all General Admission for $75)

Good Luck

WOT

[External Phono Preamp Preferences]

Rick Rigler just left. He brought over his bottlehead phono preamp which is now hooked up to my system.

Sounds flawless. Dave

I too have a Bottlehead Seduction and LOVE it!

Mal If you havnt done so already, make sure you puchase the $75 Camille Cascode Constant Current Source (C4S) upgrade. The improvement is dramatic! You get a bit more gain, but more importantly with a much lower, jet black, noise floor. Takes about an 1/2 hr to install.

IMO this unit is one of the best sounding DIY phono pre-amps out there and only $354 (incl C4S upgrade)

WopOnTour

[Low cost SET as DIY]

original form on right

Cool Johnny Thanks! Those look IDENTICAL!

So can you tell me what year, make, model of console this amp was sucked out of?

Is it a Magnavox I presume? Would you happen to have a schematic??

WOT

[Low cost SET as DIY]

Totally agree about the bread board thing, only way to learn what works and what doesnt is to mess around (safely of course) and "fry" a few things LOL

Speaking of EL84 PP amps I won this one yesterday... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300205598807

I decided to bid up to $150 on it because of the local pickup, plus I liked the looks of those transformers and if I'm not mistaken those Motorola branded grey plate tubes are Holland Amperex (D-getter?)

I havnt owned an EL84 amp since I sold my pair of HK A10 Allegros and I miss them!

The wiring is a total mess, no fuse or switch, 2-bit speaker and RCA jacks, crappy caps,no volume control and a ridiculous ground scheme but give me a Sunday or two with it....

WopOnTour

PS> Here's an item I picked up locally at an auction for $50 that REALLY aids in my bread-boarding

[ALK universal gentle slopes?]

Actually I stand corrected. It WAS actually Al's comment embedded into one of the BOM lists I downladed off his site a couple years back. It was in fact referring to keeping with the Litz for the .2 and .3

Dean, given equal mHy having the DCR slightly HIGHER all it will do is roll-off a little sharper/quicker correct??

I guess could spend just a little bit more (another $20 each) and get the 1.3mHy 12gage from North Creek Audio, they advertize .16 DCR I'd perfer to stick to air core

WOT

[Low cost SET as DIY]

Those are probably small inter-stage transformers for the 12AU7s. I've seen a few old organ amps that used inter-stage coupling instead of caps and/or grid stoppers.Do they plug right into an octal socket??

I've never heard a 45 amp but sure would like to! What equipment were they most prevalant in??

WopOnTour

[Low cost SET as DIY]

Well I mounted both the 166L5 and 166L2 heater supply trannies under my chassis, and wired the Angela PTX secondaries so I can easily swap between the 300B and 2A3 with a flip of a switch.(well technically two) Works good! While I much prefer the results with the 1627SEA outputs over the 125ESE (I have these on my bread-boad system now) I see Hammond is now offering a larger version of these open OPTs, the 125GSE that looks like could more safely handle the 80mA cathode current operating point that I prefer.

http://www.hammondmfg.com/125SE.htm

They're DOUBLE the weight of the ESE and are rated to 100mA!

Maybe I'll try a set and see how they compare... one cant have too many trannies (eeww! Did I say that?)

WOT

[ALK universal gentle slopes?]

You call Al, he's very accessible. He will probably tell you two things 1) you can use a 14 AWG at that position, and 2) you don't even really need to use an air core if you don't want to. You can go with a nice steel laminate type from Madsound or PartsExpress (Erse Super 'Q').

Thanks Dean, maybe I'll have to do that. I posted over in AK in case he was still hanging around there. I didnt really want to mess around with his formula...

On his web-site Al specifically mentions NOT to downgrade that inductor to 14g unless you want to be dissappointed

WOT

[ALK universal gentle slopes?]

The woofer inductor should be 1.3 mH, not 0.13 mH.

Yes Thanks I typed it in wrong in that one spot. Fixed!

[ALK universal gentle slopes?]

I rebuilt the AA networks in my 76 LaScalas about a year ago with a conbination of Solen and oil-filled motor run caps. They sound great IMO but I decided I would like to build and try out a set of ALK Universal gentle slope networks if only to improve stability to my Citation II and have began collecting the various parts.

But I recently ran into problems locating the Solen 1.3 mHy inductor. Turns out Solen no longer sells the solid core 12ga inductor and the Hepta Litz version has a different DCR. 1.3mHy 12g solid is .17 DCR and the Hepta Litz is .26

Does anyone have any idea if the 12ga Hepta litz version would still work OK despite the difference? What would the effect be to the frequency response of the woofer?
I've attached a copy of the schematic I'm using
Thanks
WopOnTour