Erland

It's built from Khorn plans and vented!

Before you start a rather heavy process of sanding and painting, check this product http://www.leeuwenburgh.com/ I am sure they have a dealer in the US. You should be able to put new veener on your speakers for $2-300, and they will look like new! So easy to work with that almost anybody can do it. Just ensure bad dents on corners are plastered. I will post pictures of the process of putting this product on my Khorns in a week or so..

Don't know yet. The horns are still not playing. Right now I am on a oilrig outside Denmark. I will be home in a week, and then I will put veener on the woofersection, and hook them up. The long jurney of building and learning is about to end, and hopefully some great listening is about to start. And then......a set "far out of what you can find in any shop" monoblocks are to be built.....

Hi all, In the question of capacitors for xo networks, I advise you to read the quite large test Tony Gee have done on the subject www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap A rather cheap tweak is the use of the Vishay Rodenstein, in combination with any caps. It works!

Before you deside to add som heavy woodwork to your speakers, I advise you to investigate at product called Lingaflex. It is a 0.6mm thick real wood veener, coated with a thin layer of very thin strong paper on the back. You can bend it around sharp corners without cracking. It is said that this kind of job are not for amatours, but with this product anybody with less than 9 thumbs can do it! You simply use 3M contact glue from a spraycan, and add it on both sides, glue it on and cut exessive away. In a week or so, I will post some pictures of the process when I put it on my Khorns in "Erlands Khorn project" You get Lingaflex in wide selection of real wood veener. (to bad they do not make Brazilian Rosewood)

Hi, There may be an easier way that some of the more experienced forum users can tell you about, but I have found that the pictures you like to post need to be on a server (like a online photo archive, or similar). When you click on the picture icon you type in the "http://***** adress in the window under "image URL". The adress can be found when you for example right-click on the picture on the web, and then choose "properties" That will be the "message" to the system where to find the picture, and place it in your post. I do not think there are any option for uploading pictures from your computer to any server hosted by this forum. I hope this helps, but as said, there may be an easier way? Good luck

Tweeter are the Crites 125 Squaker are K55V Silver name plate and spring connectors

Here are my own design of the top section. You will probably recognise the trachorn aswell. I opted for a rounded off "cabinet" that can be directed to optimise the listening position without looking misplaced out of angle with the woofer horn. The top will be standing on Soundcare "superspikes" The picture are taken after it was varnished an slightly sanded. Of this reason it have a "dusty" look. The loudspeaker cloth are stretched on a thin plywood frame, and the cabinet are fully open except from the top and bottom plate.

Here are the crossover complete The most of you will probably recognise this as Al Klappenbergers ES 400/5800 The brown "cinnamon stick" looking things on top of the transformer are Duelund graphite/silver resistors The white rather fat internal wires are 10ga solidcore 99.99% pure silver, as all internal wiring in the horns

I am sorry for dissapearing halfway through the pricture thread last fall. I have been working a lot, and my project has been status Q in my garage for a while. But thats how DIY-projects sometimes goes. To me hifi-building are just as much relaxation and recreation, and some of the enjoyment are the way to the good sound. Last shown was the complete "package" standing in the garage. I can't find the server adress of that picture, but I will update when i can. Here are the woofersection before I closed it.

So I am building again, Here is what I are working on for the top section. I have recieved several mail asking for links or advise where to find building plans. If you send me a PROPER email adress, able to recieve mail of 5MB+ files, I will send you some plans for free. The ones I have tried to reply to, are coming in return. I will not keep trying if mail are rejected.

Yesterday I closed the basshorns. The internal wiring are complete, and now I begin the work on the squaker/tweeter section and the x-overs. I have not been on this forum enough to know how tense the cable/wire subject are, but I know from local (Norwegian) forums that the topic can cause massive discussions. I am using a 1,8mm thick (believe me, thats thick) solidcore silver wire plated with a material called Palladium. The cable is called "the whistler cable" from the man who had it made. He runs a smal highend supply called Whistler audio. It has become the reference speaker and internal wire for all who has tested it. To bad the cable are "comercially impossible" as the process of cryo threatment and Palladium plating of 99.99% pure silver involves shipping two times between continents. Most people may find this explenation of a piece of wire a total lunacy, but in a direct comparison, this cable seem to be able to catch a nerve in the music that I have never heard befor, even from the famuous and extreemely expensive Nodost Valhalla. But as mentioned, If this cable should be produced comercially, it would probably have a prizetag, even larger. Enough cable bubble, here are the result of my basshorns.

I think this is the picture you are refering to?

I can not refer to any experience with your amps, and my listening experience with Khorns are limited (yet), but as written earlier in this thread, there are HUGE differences in SET amp. A frend of mine use to run his DIY Hammer horns on a CJ11A with very good results. Then we hooked up a Audionote SET KT88 amp of about 12W(yes in not usual with KT88 as SET, but this one are). The result was jawdropping, with dynamics and bass even better than the 4 times more powerful CJ11A. I have heard similar results with SET amps several times, and there are two keywords that follows SET systems that deliveres good bass;.... MASSIVE powersupply & very high quality output transformers. As a reference look for example at what Borderpatrol (www.borderpatrol.co.uk) deliver as outboard PSU for their 300B SET amp, or the Audionote kits PQ 300B/2A3 amp. I agree that you generally and more easily will get a better bass with a large transistor amp, but then you loose that lovely liquid mid/top part. By going SET you can have it all. Next year I am going to build a couple of SET blocks to go with my Khorns (under build). I am going to build around a pair of Tommy Hørning torroid OPT's that I managed to buy. The handmade TH torroids are of several SET "gurus" considered "the best there is" even when Tango and Audionote OPT's are compared. When the amps project are proceeding, I will post a picture-thread on the forum. Good luck and enjoy your Khorns

When the speakers are complete is hard to determine. I have some plans for the squaker/tweeter section that diifers some from the regular "box" and there are crossovers to build. I recieved a message from Norwegian customs that the caps from Solen has arrived and will be released this week, and the coils from Partsconnexion will hopefulle be here sometime soon. I have also promised my wife to build a noew kitchen before christmas, so the horns is something I do an couple of hrs every day. I hope to have the Khorns playing music for my new years party, but if it does not happen I will not panic:) The RF5's also does a very good job in my system.

Hi, I have a spare pair of K700 mid horns (metal) laying in my garage. They are absolute mint condition, and came with a pair of K55V drivers that I bought. I can not find any use for them, so you can have them for the shipping charge I you like. I am living in Norway, so I would expect the shipping to be $20-30. Drop me an email if you are interested, and I will check on the shipping. Erland

And now the hatch. I relation to your comments on the hatch, and that some find the 1/2" plywood a litle to flexible for this area, I have tried a different solution. The part that I cut out is made as an inner hatch and enlarged by 4cm in all directions. In between I have glued a 2mm thich rubber seal. The plates and rubber is glued and screwed together, and the outer plates edges nicely rounded off and sanded to "baby skin" finnish as all the plywood. Some may find my sanding and other detailing as "nitpicking", but as mentioned earlier, I want to try to make this horns the best I can in any way withing the limitatations of myknowledge and squills. To sit listening and regretting that I did not do this or that, and wander how much better It would have been if I did, is not my style.

You know it is hard to determine how much time passing by when you're having fun:) I have been working on this a few hrs. a day for a while, but I am working a lot out of the country, so I am having diifeculties to keep any track of hours. But if I had to make a wild guess; It would probably take me 7-8 days of consistent work to build the basshorn. I have both the Klipsch and Speakerlab plans and a lot of pictures that I have collected from this forum and the web in general. I have used the Klipsch plans for measurment and cutting, but the Speakerlab plans has a lot of explinations, tips and hints that has come useful for an amatour.

Now the other side..... Details like this does of course not mather on the sound, but when building somethings that I plan to keep in my home for years to come, I like all details, even the hidden ones to be right. I have cut the hole very carefully and intend to use the part that came out as a reinforcement of the hatch.

Another question; The surface the Khorns eventially will be standing on are wooden floor. To place the plywood bottom directly on the wooden floor does not seem right to me. What is recommended to place between? I have a set of threaded Soundcare Superspikes here, but I have never seen a Khorn on spikes before, so I am not sure if that's the way to go? More of the rubber mat that I used insidethe horns? Please chare your experienses....

To reply on the heading of thos thread.... I have once needed the customer support of the Klipsch Dealer in Norway where I live. The Klipsch dealer are Audiocompaniet. The owner by the name of Olav Flugsrud contacted me personally and ensured my problems were solved. And even that I admitted that the reason for the problem probably was me to blame, he supplied the part to fix it free of charge. I make sure I let everyone bringing up the subject of Klipsch customer support know, because my experience are that it's the best there is!

Then it's time to start closing the thing off:) So this is where the am am at the moment. I work on my horns a coupel of hrs. every day, and will keep you posted. Any advise or suggestions are welcome.

Even if it requires a litle more complicated woodwork, I preferred the horizontal "ducktail", as it in my opinon gives a more firm and rigid constructon.

Then the next step;

I have seen different solutions to seal of between the plates where the woofer is fixed. I bougth a large roll of 2mm rubber, and cut it in the size of the woofer-plate. This will ensure a tight seal, and prevent vibration.