kfalls
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Posts posted by kfalls
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I've tried the KV2, KV3 and the KLF-C7. The KV2 wasn't a very good match, too lean, not enough low end. For me the KV3 sounded perfect. I used one for several years and then sold it thinking the KLF-C7 would be a better match with its two 8" woofers same as in the Kg4. Wrong, I didn't like the sound at all. It sounded like all the trebel was going over our heads, no matter how much I tilted it downward. I tried for several months to find another KV3 with Oak finish, then settled for black. I'm always on the lookout for another reasonably priced one in Oak. I love my Kg4s and wouldn't sell them for anything.
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I searched Parts Express and they have all sizes and weights. Can someone give me a general idea what size/weight I should use.h
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I agree the KV-3 is the best center for the Kg4s. I tried the KLF-C7 thinking the 8" woofers would provide the best match for the 8" Kg4 woofers, but it didn't blend well. It always sounded like the sound was going over my head. I had sold my KV-3, but found another on ebay at a very reasonable price. I set up a friend with Kg4/KV-2 combination, but the KV-3 is a better match. Hope this helps.
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I have two pair of the RS-3s for my Yamaha RX-V2095. I mounted mine directly to the wall using dry-wall anchors. These particular anchors were pretty cool, different from most you see. They have a diameter od approx. 3/8" and the body of the anchor is cork-screwed so you can drive them straight into the dry-wall with #2 phillips head screwdriver. They can hold up to 50 lbs, so the RS-3s 12lbs wasn't a problem. I'm more into quality than quantity, but have done my fair share of CRANKING up the volume. They have been mounted for over a year without loosening or any other problems. I purchased mine from Menard's, but have seen them at Home Depot, and Lowe's as well. Hope this helps.
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I've seen several auctions on ebay for the KSB 2.1 stating they are the last US speakers with real wood. I have a pair of the 2.1s and they're rosewood vinyl. Has Klipsch ever made the KSB 2.1 with real Rosewood panels/veneer? An earlier version maybe? I think the guys is full of #*@&, but no one has called him on it. What's the verdict, should I tell this guy he needs to change his posting since he has sold many pairs and has several listed now?
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I love the Kg4s and had two pairs before selling one a few years ago. The second pair is a permanent addition to my bedroom system.
I had recommended the Kg4s to a friend for his system, but he didn't know where to get them. I'm an avid ebay fan and have purchased many items on-line. I found a good pair and contacted the seller several times about condition, shipping, etc. His photos looked good, so I made what I felt was a fair bid and won.
Upon devivery I discovered the seller had used an earlier photo in the listing and the speakers were not only dirty, but had cracks in the surrounds of two woofers (seller had also tried to repair them with silicone)and one corner had been slightly damaged. I contacted the seller and ebay's "Safe Harbor" and practically had to threaten him with physical harm, before he would make compensation (reduction in the selling price). I have purchased over twenty items from ebay, but this was the first I had a problem with. I only provide it as an example of what could happen. I consider myself a pretty savvy buyer and do my homework, but there's always that possibility the seller lies.
What I usually do to minimize my risk is to first talk with the seller. You'll know right away if the seller is into audio, or someone at a pawn shop pushing his junk on the internet. Get pictures and make certain they're recent (learned my lesson). Set a value based on all the information and don't get caught up in the bidding frenzy at the end of the auction. Be considerate and pay ASAP and ask for a tracking number to track when the item gets shipped and when it will arrive. Check the box when it arrives for damage and note it on the UPS/FedEX shipping form you sign. This will save a lot of hassle with the seller should you need to prove it wasn't damaged during shipping. As long as you are careful and do your homework buying from ebay shouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps.
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Are the KSP-S6 surrounds the only Klipsch surrounds of this style? I noticed all of the others are similar to the RS-3 only with different driver compliments.
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Are the post on the KLF-C7 actually 5-way binding posts? The posts on mine are not able to accept banana plugs, isn't that one of the "5-ways" it's supposed to bind? I wanted to use some Audioquest GR8 cables which were terminated with bananas. I had 4 pairs of 5-ways I had from an upgrade on my Legacy Focus speakers and was able to upgrade my Kg4s and KLF-C7. I felt it was easier, cheaper and more beneficial to upgrade the post than the cables.
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Hey all, more good news. The Kg4 woofers have also been discontinued. The originals are poypropolene (white) with a black surround, the replacements are all black. Ran into this a couple of years ago when setting up a system for a friend. I purchased a pair on ebay, one of which had cracks in the surround. I've seen a few on ebay, but wouldn't pay the price they wanted. I believe the part number is K8K. I love my Kg4s and would never part with them. Thankfully consistent use seems to keep the surrounds "healthy" since I've had them for close to 16 years. I recently changed the binding post to allow for banana plugs, other than that I've experienced no other problems.
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I'm not surprised about your frustration precision caps and resistors can be a pain to find. As long as you're going the precision route, let me confuse you even more. There are different tolerences as well, 1%, 5% and 10%. This may, or may not be a bad thing. Lets say you are looking for a 1K ohm resistor. If the engineer specified a resistor with a 10% tolerence, your replacement can be between 900 ohms and 1.1K ohm. However, the bad news is precision resistors and caps have a much lower tolerence (1%) which narrows your range quite a bit. I believe the "sand or cement" material you're talking about is actually ceramic used because of it's ability to withstand and dissipate heat. As long as you keep to the specified wattage, it doesn't matter which type you use (wire-wound, carbon, or ceramic, the problem you may run into is they are not usually the same size for the same wattage which may be a problem if your circuit board has limited space. I'm surprised you have problems with the 33 ohm resistor since this is a standard resistor value. As the above poster stated, you can parallel and series resistors and capacitors to get the value you need. For resistors the formulas to calculate resistance are r1 + r2 + r3 (series) and (r1 X r2 X r3) / (r1 + r2 + r3) (parallel). For capacitance it's just the opposite c1 + c2 + c3 (parallel). The important thing to consider with capacitance is to ensure you equal or exceed the "working voltage" of the capacitor usually listed as "35V WDC" or 35 working volts DC. Hope this helps.
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Trespasser_guy,
You are correct, it couldn't have been 1981. I'm old (47)and feeble, so cut me a little slack. I was trying to remember when I bought them. I had two pair I purchased a couple of years apart. The first was with a prior girlfriend who I'd known since 81', but actually purchased the speakers in 85'. I've never had to repair them and the surrounds still look good as new. I think playing them frequently has a lot to do with it, keeps the rubber pliable.
The proir poster complains about Klipsch and the absence of 3-ways in their HT and less expensive speaker lines. I agree, the Heritage speakers are probably Klipsch' best efforts, but I also know the KG4s, Fortes and Chorus' still fetch a "pretty penny" on the auction and used equipment sites. I don't think you'd find too many "audiophiles" who enjoy the sound of a "good horn midrange" unless they have a pair of Avantguarde Duos, nor do I think Klipsch has plans to build 3-ways with non-horn midrange drivers.
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I'm not familiar with the 3802, but unless it's a 9.1 system you are either a)running your surrounds in A/B mode, or b)running each channel with 2 speakers in parallel. The KLF series speakers are 8 ohms, which is good, but if you are running the surrounds in parallel the equivalent impedance would be 4 ohms and may be the culprit for an over-heated receiver. The 4 ohm load would draw substantially more current and with five other speakers it may have killed your power supply. The Denon's are an excellent amp and I would imagine the 3802 is at least 100W/ch x 5. The Klipsch's are usually an easy load because of their high efficiencies, but I would still be very afraid of paralleling two on the surround channels.
The only way I could see hitting/dropping the receiver as a fix would be if the speaker relay (delays the connection to the speakers until the amp is completely powered up to avoid pops) is stuck in it's disconnect mode and the drop/hit shakes the contacts loose. I would never drop it from 4'you're just asking for trouble. It logical to believe if you can jar the contacts free on the relay, you can also jar something loose you don't want to, ie the procedure may cause more problems than it fixes.
If you're gear savvy at all, disconnect all speakers. If the light is still on, remove the top cover of the receiver and look for the relay, it's probably near the speaker connections, and tap on the relay itself. Monitor the light to see if it goes off. If it does, you know where the problem lies and it may stay fixed, if it doesn't you know where to tell the shop to look. If the light goes out without tapping the relay, you probably have a shorted speaker and it can be found by connecting each one until the relay shuts the receiver down again. Hope this helps.
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I've had my KG4s since 1981 and never had a problem. I use them consistently and believe somehow exercising the rubber surrounds guards against rot. Love'em wouldn't give them up for anything.
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Ebay has their Safe Harbor program which mediates misrepresented sales, it's part of the perks for buying from ebay. Take advantage of it. Depending upon how old the speakers are, the price ain't bad.
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LyleS,
The crackling sound disdurbs me. My first guess would be a faulty capacitor, most likely in the power supply. Years of use and build-up of heat tend to dry out the electrolyte in electrolitic capacitors. This would answer why it would discharge after the receiver has a chance warm up befroe it happens. It could also be a crack in the circuit board which opens and closes as the receiver heats and cools. I've never heard of a problem with static electricity. I assume he believes there's a voltage difference between your source and receiver caused by a build-up of static on one or the other. A simple grounding wire between the two should resolve it. Since most audio gear don't supply grounded AC plugs, ensure the polarity of each is the same (wide blade in the wide slot, narrow in the narrow slot) before grounding them together. Intermittent problems suck. If the problem was more frequent, or continuous you could use a cooling spray on the board to see if temperature was a factor. This is an older model Denon, I assume, so the quality isn't a factor and well worth repairing unless you just want an excuse to buy a new receiver. Try grounding, and check the electrolytic caps for possible bulging at the rubber ends. Hope this helps. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I look at several different BB and Forums.
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An obvious clue here is the display stopped functioning. So it sounds like the problem is with a portion of the power supply, not necessarily the tramsformer. A shorted voltage regulator is my guess. I haven't really looked at receiver schematics recently, with most I have looked at being tube amps, but usually there are several voltage supplies running off the same transformer supplying power for control logic, processing, Op Amps, etc. Also, when purchasing a replacement fuse, if you can't find the exact value it is better to get one of lesser amperage. Fuses blow when they draw more current than they are rated for, if the engineer placed a 3.15a fuse in the circuit, you definitely don't want to draw 4a before the fuse will blow again, it may take several components with it, which I'll bet happened when you powered it back up with the 4 amper. Also Pioneer used IC outputs, which are not able to dissipate heat as well as discrete transistors, it's very possible the load of 4 speakers over a long duration was too much for it and the outputs are shorted. Long story short, give up the old Pioneer and buy a new receiver.
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I have a C7 in Mahagony I paid $300 for a few months ago. I bought it for my bedroom system to match my kg4 mains and RS-3 front and rear surrounds, but on my cabinet it fires over my head and can't be adjusted properly in the given space. I replaced a KV-3 which I sold and wished I hadn't. It didn't have the feet, but everything else is in very good condition. I'm just looking to break even on it, so you can have it for the $300 I paid plus shipping.
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I bought a pair of AudioQuest GR-8 cables from
HCM Audio (www.hcmaudio.com) at a great price. Very nice high-end cable with quality (WBT I think) banana or lug connectors for $107 12'pair. These look and sound much better than the 12ga zipcord-style cables, such as the Monster Classic. I'm not really into "exotic" cables and had purchased these because they were much a better quality (materials and workmanship) for a small premium in price. I was pleasantly surprised at the increase in detail and smoothness. They seem to mellow the sound, smoothing the edges a bit, without sacrificing clarity. I opted for the bananas, but discovered my Kg4s wouldn't accept them. It required replacing the terminals with some spares I had leftover from updating my Legacy Focus terminals. I love my Kg4s and will never part with them. My Klipsch system includes:
Kg4 Mains
KLF-C7 Center
RS-3 front and rear surrounds
SW-8 mid-subwoofer
ACI Saturn low subwoofer
Yamaha RX-V2095 Receiver
Sony NS700P Progressive Scan DVD
Pioneer DVL700 Laserdisc/DVD player
Sony KV36XBR450 HD-Ready TV
Nakamichi BX-300 Cassette recorder/player
EchoStar (Dishnetwork) PVR-501 DSS receiver/recorder
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I have a Home Theater system which includes a pair of Kg4s as mains, RS-3s for front and rear surrounds, SW-8 for mid-bass, an ACI Saturn sub for low bass, and a C7 center channel. The C7 is a replacement for a KV-3, but it doesn't sound like a good match. Which Klipsch center speaker would be a good match for this system driven by a Yamaha RX-V2095 receiver?
An obvious clue here is the display stopped functioning. So it sounds like the problem is with a portion of the power supply, not necessarily the tramsformer. A shorted voltage regulator is my guess. I haven't really looked at receiver schematics recently, with most I have looked at being tube amps, but usually there are several voltage supplies running off the same transformer supplying power for control logic, processing, Op Amps, etc. Also, when purchasing a replacement fuse, if you can't find the exact value it is better to get one of lesser amperage. Fuses blow when they draw more current than they are rated for, if the engineer placed a 3.15a fuse in the circuit, you definitely don't want to draw 4a before the fuse will blow again, it may take several components with it, which I'll bet happened when you powered it back up with the 4 amper. Also Pioneer used IC outputs, which are not able to dissipate heat as well as discrete transistors, it's very possible the load of 4 speakers over a long duration was too much for it and the outputs are shorted. Long story short, give up the old Pioneer and buy a new receiver.
I will probably get bashed for asking this...
in Home Theater
Posted
Surge/EMF/RFI surge protectors do improve the sound quality by surpressing voltage spikes, current surges and stray electrical and radio frequency interference. They use a combination of components; capacitors and varistors which impede and smooth sudden voltage spikes (snaps, crackles, pops), and inductors which impedes and smooth current surges. Having a seperate breaker doesn't totally eliminate surges and spikes, but can reduce it substantially while protecting your equipment from excessive currents. Unless you're driving inefficient speakers with huge amplifiers , like the Krells or other Class A' amplifiers requiring substantial continuous amounts of current, a 60Amp circuit would be overkill and not very safe. With a 60Amp circuit, line current would have to be 60Amps before the circuit will trip. Most breakers don't react instaneously resulting in the possibility of several full 60amp cycles passing through your equipment before the breaker has an opportunity to trip. If the fuse on the equipment doesn't open, or is slow to open, substantial damage can result. I'm not sure about anyone else, but I use a power conditioner for a noisy line, or for lightening protection. But be warned, if you read the guarantee closely, most, not even those who state they protect your equipment up to $100,000, will guarantee against lightening. Hope this helps.