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MitsuMan

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Posts posted by MitsuMan

  1. Allow me to revive a VERY old thread. [:P]

    I remember both of Flip's stores in Crestwood. I bought my original Mitsubishi DA-A10DC amp and DA-C20 tuner/preamp, along with my Mitsubishi MS-20 studio monitors from Flip in 1979. I used to spend hours in that place, and they were always willing to let a young kid ( I was 17!) have the run of the store. I listened to just about everthing they had in the store, and they never made me feel like I was bothering them.

    My first installment loan was not for a car, it was for the Mitsu stuff mentioned above. My dad co-signed the loan for me so I could buy it. I still have the speakers, amp, and tuner/preamp.

    I was feeling a bit nostalgic today, and was searching the innernets for Flip's Stereo and came across this post by Sheltie Dave. Thanks for posting this Dave, and giving me the opportunity to remember the good old days.

  2. It just seems to me in the threads I read, that most of the references are to what CD was used for a gear comparison. Many people's sigs seem to list all kinds of CDP's and DVD players. I don't see many with TT's in them.

    I was just thinking out loud. I've started a thread about Grado cartridges before and got not one response. I saw only 16 replies to the thread about "best bang for the buck turntable." If there is a great deal of threads about vinyl, I'd love to read them.

  3. I was running my RF5's with a Pioneer Elite receiver rated at 80 wpc, which sounded great. I then hooked them up to a McIntosh 2125 amp that I had purchased for my Khorns just to see. What a difference! The reference series certainly thrives on a little extra power! I guess my point is that a more powerful amp will really bring the RF5's to life.

    Agreed, I run my RF-3's with a Mitsubishi DA-A15DC power amp. 150 wpc @ 8 ohms.

  4. Well, deep down I know I should just refoam them. If they were going in any of my 4 main systems, I wouldn't even ask and would just buy new surround kits. Since they're going to basically be a garage/workshop speaker I wasn't going to bother. But on the other hand, they would be good candidates for my first DIY surround project as I paid less for them than what the new surrounds cost. [^o)]

    I think I'll try the repair first, and go ahead and order the kit. Again, thanks for the input gents.

    Craig

  5. If you don't want to spend the time or money to replace the foam, patch it.

    I have used Weldbond and patches cut from a thick plastic bag (it may have been a ziplock type). If it's not thick enough you can use multiple coats of Weldbond to build it up (allow to dry between coats).

    Thank you for the suggestion. [:)] It's not the money, more the time, as they will probably end up in my workshop system. I just hate the idea of the hole being there.

  6. I picked up a pair of Boston Acoustics A100's locally for $20.00 but one of the surrounds has a dime-sized hole in it. The surrounds themselves are soft and pliable and really don't need to be replaced. Any suggestions for how to "patch" the hole? I've repaired treated cloth surrounds before but never attempted to patch a foam surround. Any help would be appreciated. [:)]

  7. "..........is a cheap shot from others who make no other useful contributions to the points................."

    Methinks you did take it personally, and that's ok. Unproductive, but ok. Not knowing me or my background or what I listen to or my experience level, it seems odd that you would get defensive. Maybe my post was somewhat blunt, but it appears to have struck close to home.

    Being a mechanical engineer myself (for 23 years) I don't feel I need to defend myself, as I'm not trying to convince anyone that I'm an expert.

    A philosphy is open to interpretation and SHOULD be a matter to invite debate. You appear to convinced in your conclusions as being correct as given. Therefore, there is no debate.

    We now return you to our regularly scheduled program. [;)]

  8. Someone who cannot spell or use proper grammar should not try to sound like an expert.

    Well, I have published over magazine 200 articles in 2 field. Also, English is my second language. I am very good at spelling, grammar, and writing style, but I always make errors, especially on the Web. I was quoting someone else's observations about horns and recognized the error, but made no judgement about the intelligence of the author. One of my best friends, who is extremely intelligent, has a speech impediment and is the worst speller I ever met.

    So, assuming that others, from different countries or not, who are not purfict spelurs, are unintelligent or cannot make positive contributions on the Web, is a cheap shot from others who make no other useful contributions to the points.................and perhaps, why we as Americans can be construed as arrogant.

    Are you the author of the article you posted? That's not how I took it. You portrayed it as if you were just posting someone else's philosphy. In no way was it meant as a cheap shot at you. If you took it that way, then you have my apologies. I still stand by my original statement, however. [;)]

  9. Loudspeakers

    Loudspeakers should not be bass reflex. No dipolar operation in any forms. No synthetic driver’s cones. The wider dynamic range is better but after 110dB/W the Transient/Tone balance rapidly goes down. No impedance equalization, no resonators of any kind. No crossovers more then 6db/octave if possible; in very specific cases higher order might be used but very reservingly, very “creatively” and with the very well-determined purpose. Loudspeakers should have more then 3 channels and the channel should be painstakingly and meticulously time-aligned not only geometrically but also acoustically. Any minute phase discrepancy between the channels religiously tabooed. Loudspeakers should be viewed only in context of their listing environment and should be positioned according the DPoLS concept (search my site for further explanations). The “quality” of the loudspeakers should bear ONLY on the quality of drivers and the loudspeaker design should recognize and to embrace (not combat!) the idiosyncrasies and the craving of the drivers, and consequentially the design should furnish the best possible environment for the drivers to let them operate at thier full blossom. Horn loaded loudspeakers are the most advanced topology of any loudspeaker. The properly implemented horn-loaded loudspeaker is more superior topology then juts “horn-loaded loudspeakers”. The properly implemented and advancely performing home-based horn-loaded loudspeakers are practically unknown to wide audio public.

    They were my very basic principles according which I shaped my playback. If you do not like them…
    then I have others....

    Romy the Cat from the "Good Sound Club" site.

    Someone who cannot spell or use proper grammar should not try to sound like an expert. [*-)]

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