longdrive03
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Posts posted by longdrive03
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According to the T/S specs I measured on the K-1036-E (not the K-23 in my post) each of the two woofers would need 59 liters (2.05cubic feet) of cabinet with a 4" diameter vent 5 13/16" long which will turn to 39.68 HZ. The internal dimensions of the KLF20 give about 97 liters (instead of 118 liters) without reducing for the displacement for the woofers, mid and tweeter, bracing etc. Using a 118 liter interior dimension with a 6" ID round port gives a port length of 16.8 inches. You gain about 6hz on the low end by using the bigger cabinet. You can go even larger in box size but it will produce a peak on the low end. As far as a rectangular port a 1" wide dimension would need to be 28.38" long and 16.8 inches deep. The larger the port area the longer the port. However the more narrow you make a vent the more you increase the possibility of vent noise at high volume. Hope this helps.
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Hi Uncle Al. I've got a recessed subwoofer "coffin" behind my upstairs playroom wall housing 8 12" woofer with only a 15 x 15" opening into the room covered by a grill cloth. Sounds great and uses no floor space. I have the woofers firing into the attic (IB). Neighbors get to hear some wear sound sometimes!!!!
If you have some open space behind the wall you can use the cabinet you have or build some larger cabinets which will extend the low end on the K-23-K woofers. I've got the specs on these and can give you some size info if you build. I would vent into the room since otherwise you would be venting into the back space which doesn't help. Should work well if you have the back space and want to save some floor space. I put a double layer of sheetrock on my sub wall. You can also use special sheetrock to this type installation. Good luck
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Hi guys thanks for the posts. Main issue is cost - can get these cheaper but don't want them unless they are very very close as Elmer Fudd would say. I'm sure Bob's woofers would be great.
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To quote a famous line, "Think you used enough magnet there Butch, I mean Bob"???!!!!??? That think is huge. I bet it front mounted easily???? My first set of barbells didn't weigh that much. How did it sound otherwise????
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I will certainly look at the T/S specs first and if not very close won't proceed. My main question is, assumng the T/S specs are very close, does anyone foresee a problem with this driver simply because it has a foam surround and aluminum cone? Certainly don't want any ringing in the cone or a floppy cone because of the foam surround. Thanks for the replies.
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Yeah, I'm trying to see how close the specs are on this unit. Might not work. But if they are close do you see any problem with the aluminum cone or foam roll surround? I know the K-33 has an accordion edge and paper cone. The K-31-E used in the Jubilee has a rubber surround so I thought it might work. Thanks for the comment.
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Considering building a LaScala or University Classic bass bin. I'm looking at an aluminum cone 4 ohm woofer with heavy foam rubber suspension. Don't know the specs on it yet but if it's close to the K-33 does anyone see any problems. Thanks.
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I've used the iron on method with Titebond II glue and it works great with the wood back veneer I have. Mine has a poplar back and is about 1/16" thick. It doesn't bubble at all. I roll on two coats with a foam roller and use the ole' Kroger paper sack to cover the veneer to avoid burning.
I've used wipe on poly with the cherry and mahogany and it worked fine. Just finished a five speakers for a friend of my son and no problems. Here's a pic.I think the problem is the thickness of the veneer and whether it is paper backed or thin raw veneer. Rockets, what kind of veneer were you going to use on you LaScalas?
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You can also buy a banana plug and wire you + and - wire to it and then plug it in the end of the terminal keeping the + and - matched with the terminal side. This is easier and quicker than the above method if you move it much or the install is a tight fit.
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ARCA in Little Rock used to have a set of Cornwalls as they main studio speakers years ago. don't know what they have now.
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Thanks for the info guys. I have 4 of the K-70-G's for sale. One has the Klipsch label and the other 3 don't They are for sale Michael, or anyone, if you're interested. What's a fair price on these puppies??? Here's two photos front and rear. Thanks.
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I picked it up from a friend of mine. djk poster in 2004 that the K44 is from the theater version of the Khorn. Just wondering cause this this is massive. I'm testing it now.
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I know this possibly belongs in the Garage Sale section but I need to tap into the wealth of the Technical Questions audience. What is the going price for a K-44-E woofer in good condition? Thanks guys.
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Does anyone know what speakers these drivers are used in? Couldn't find any info in the archives. Thanks.
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Man that is nice! Does the handle work and distribute lots of silver dollars when pulled? Amen on the raised panel bit set. I've got one in the garage unopened and I'm waiting for the proper time to open. Like when Norm "The old Yankee workshop" comes to my house! Like everything else (except brain surgery) it is probably not that hard once you get the nack. Your project looks really good.
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You will enjoy the fruits of your labor! I agree on the post about veneering using the iron/glue method. I used Titebond II glue and an $8 Wal-Mart iron and wood backed veneer which is about 1/16" thick. I just bought a load of different veneers from a furniture plant and it's fun to experiment. If you like cherry it's great to work with and finish. Birdseye maple ain't so bad either.
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Thanks for the compliments guys. The LCR can all be removed from the TV stand. The center can come out from the front but the LR have to be removed from the back. My friend wanted the LR speakers to fill up the available space. We had to squish all this into 51 inches wide by 14 inches deep. I used wipe on poly clear satin finish (7 coats) which is almost foolproof. I may built an omnidirectional rear surround setup next.
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Here are the pics.
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I just built an HT system for my buddy's greatroom. He need it all in a corner between the wall and fireplace and no more than 51" long. I build his TV cabinet stand for the new Samsung 52" TV and LCR and subwoofer. L&R are two K-1053-K 6.5 woofers and K-99 6 3/4" tweeters. Center is two K-1057-K 6.5" woofers and K-99 tweeter. Rear is a Klipsch sub amp and K-1071-A 12" downfiring sub. LCR are cherry veneer on the sides, solid cherry trim, and waterfall bubinga veneer fronts. Sub is solid cherry legs and trim, bubinga vener sides, waterfall bubinga veneer top. TV table is Solid cherry legs and trim, bubinga pommelle veneer on tope and ends. Sound is great and very clear and detailed with his Onkyo receiver. Rear surrounds will come later. He didn't have room for anything bigger but there's always his empty bedroom for the next project! Here's some pics.
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Home Depot or True Value Hardware stores will carry it. If you want a little "antigue" look you canuse Minwax Antigue Finish Oil. You can go to minwax.com and click the forum section and get some help also. The teak oil or tung oil takes a while to dry.
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Thanks Bob. I figured if anyone knew it would be you! BTW Do autoformers break down over time like caps? I've heard the insulation on the wire can break down.
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Hi Bob. No it is the T24. 3110A is on the paper on the autoformer. This is on a 1965 K horn original network. It has 0-5 taps. Type 1R. Huge air core coila and Pyramid and Mallory block caps.
I've used wipe on poly with the cherry and mahogany and it worked fine. Just finished a five speakers for a friend of my son and no problems. Here's a pic.
SF-3 repair ??
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
If you remove the horn and test it by bypassing the internal crossover I would recommend using a capacitor (probably 3.3uf or higher) in the positive line. This will prevent any low frequency damage. You can test it "naked" (without a cap) but keep the volume very very low. If it plays then you probably have an xover problem. If it doesn't you have a diaphragm problem and could also have an xover problem. If the tweeter doesn't play when tested I would also connect any raw speaker you have to the xover to see if you hear any sound. If you do then it is probably the tweeter alone and the xover is okay. Good luck.