J Harris

Hi Klipschguy, I'm not explaining the crossover very well -- in fact the positive lead of the squawker goes to tap #2 on the T2A, not #0 -- so I've drawn a crude diagram of it (not a schematic!) and uploaded it. I don't know whether it displays in the message or whether you have to click a link, but either way, it should be here. Could you please check it out, and then let me know if you think it's still safe to attach the negative lead of the tweeter to tap #2 on the T2A? Thanks once again! J!

Whoah. Wait a moment, this now looks different from what you're describing. Let me go into more detail, and then maybe you can recommend what's the safest way to proceed. First of all, there is a terminal strip with 8 pairs of terminals which all the leads go into. On one side of the strip is an uninsulated spiral metal clamp which touches alternate terminals on the inside. (I hope that's clear.) Secondly, the T2A taps are labeled as follows: 1, 0, 3 on one side, going up from the bottom, and 2, 4, 5 on the other. The negative lead from the tweeter goes to one of the terminal pairs. From there, a 2.2uf cap goes to tap 3 of the T2A. But the negative lead of the squawker does not go to tap 3 of the T2A. Instead, it goes to the terminal strip and ends. There is no wire on its matching terminal, but that spiral metal clamp touches it. If you follow the spiral toward the T2A, it then runs to the terminal of the negative woofer lead, then hops to the terminal belonging to the negative input lead. From here, a wire leads to terminal 0 on the T2A. I know I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this. (Does anyone have a schematic of the E-2?) If any of this makes sense, can you recommend how I might use the T2A taps to attenuate the tweeter? Thanks again! J!

Well, I just opened up one of the speakers and the E-2 network does indeed have a T2A with the arrangement just as you describe. I'm going to try moving the tweeter lead from tap 3 to tap 2. I'll report back with results. J!

Hey Klipschguy, My tweeters are still hurting my ears. I know it's partly due to the way the speakers mate with the room, but I do think they are out of balance with the mids and woofers, so I want to give this one more try before switching to a new set of speakers. All I've done is put in new caps and wiring on the crossover. The architecture is identical. What are T2As? Inductors? Thanks, J!

Anyone know if this tweak will work with the E-2 type crossover? I've got the mid-'80s Heresys with the K-53 squawker. Thanks, J!

I have a line on a pair of K400 horns with alnico K-55 squawkers. I'm thinking of buying them to put in my late-model Heresy I (1985 with ferrite drivers and a plastic horn on the squawker). A few questions for the knowledgeable: 1.) Is it worth exchanging my plastic horns and ferrite drivers for the metal horns and alnico drivers? 2.) One of the two alnico drivers is a K-55-V and one is a K-55-M. Does this make any difference to the sound? 3.) I have the Type E-2 crossover. Will I have to modify this to accommodate the older drivers? Thanks for any help you guys can give! J!

Does anyone know whether the P-Trap will work in the E-2 crossover used in the mid-80s Heresys? I've already upgraded all the caps in the current crossover. Thanks, J!

I finally replaced the tweeter and squawker caps with the Jensens, and the change has been pronounced, especially in the highs. Much smoother and less piercing. This gives the entire frequency range more clarity, since there's less distorted high-end tizz competing with the rest of the music. To answer your question about the 33uf cap: on the advice of an Audio Asylum poster, I'm replacing them with Solen metallized polypropyplene. I have them on order -- can't wait to try them out. If you decide to do this, I'll be looking forward to hearing your results. Have you tried upgrading the internal wiring? or front mounting the drivers? These are both options I'm considering for future mods, and I'd love to hear how they've helped other posters. (I've long-since damped my horns.) J!

Aha! I thought I was losing my mind. I've never seen caps that look like that. So will I still an improvement from putting in the Jensens? Do you know how I should wire them -- positive to where, negative to where? (Sorry for the dumb questions -- I'm just starting out in the electronics hobby.) Thanks! J

Please advise me. I just got 4 Jensen PIO capacitors to put across my Heresy tweeters to smooth them out. I was under the impression that there would already be caps on the crossover which I would simply exchange with new ones! Instead, there is only one cap on the crossover -- on the woofer. There are also two little plastic boxes screwed onto the crossover panel, but I'm assuming they're inductors of some kind, not caps. I have a 1985 Heresy with an Type E-2 network. Did the model simply come with no caps on the tweeter? Can I simply add my new ones to smooth the treble? And if so, where do I put them, where should the negative and positive leads go, etc.?? Thanks in advance for all your help! I'd like to do this tonight if possible... J