Hypoxia
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Posts posted by Hypoxia
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Wow! That's all I can say about the Quintet speakers now that I've spent some time in the camper. The sound is incredible.
Now I need some input on a passive subwoofer to replace the Panasonic one. I say passive as I frequently camp without power and am limited to the amount provided by 6 golf car 6 volt batteries.
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Newegg has the Quintet 5's for $250 so I ordered them. I'm sure there will be quite an improvement in sound quality.
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How big can you handle for each speaker (how big are the quintents)? I have a brand new in box set of Polk 5.1 speakers that I am not using.
The Quintets are: Satellite 8.3" H x 5" W x 6.3" D Center: 5" H x 12" W x 6" D
What are the Polk's?
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You say 5.1 in a motorhome? I would think all-speakers stereo, or mono would be a better solution. Also, how much hi-fidelity or loudness do you require? How much power is pushing your speakers?
It came that way from the factory and sounds pretty good considering the speakers. The current system is an LG LHB953 http://www.lg.com/us/home-audio-video/lg-LHB953-home-theater-system but uses the original Panasonic speakers and sub. I just noticed the amp says 4 ohm at the speaker connection. There is plenty of volume now so I don't think that would be an issue.
Amplifier
Stereo mode: 155 W + 155 W (4Ω at 1 KHz, THD 10%)
Surround mode: Left+Right: 155 W + 155 W (THD 10%)
Center: 155 W
Surround: 155 W + 155 W
(4Ω at 1 KHz, THD 10%)
Subwoofer: 225 W (3Ω at 30 Hz, THD 10%)
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I'm thinking it's time to replace the factory Panasonic speakers in the motorhome. In a small speaker, is there anything better (no bigger) than the Klipsch Quintet? The Quintet is physically about an inch larger than the current speakers and I can't fit anything any larger than them.
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It did improve the sound quite a bit. I was tempted to turn them upside down as was suggested but they are so heavy I didn't really want the workout. As far as the original reason I started this thread, RC-64 Clarity, I'm not sure yet. I watched Gettysburg last night & it sounded good so we'll see if other shows are the same.
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My tombstone will read "Left alone he foolishly rearranged the furniture"
It does sound better & everything is aimed at the main listening area. I haven't really checked it out yet. I about got a hernia moving them but I can always blame that on you guys!
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Loads of good info, I'll try some of the suggestions & let you know. I won't be able to get to it right away due to other commitments that have come up.
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With the 7's so high the woofer is near level to the center. There some real interference in that case. That is one of the reasons for xo the center above 60 Hz. I don't think autocalibration can do a good job with the speaker position. The 7's need to be on the floor, the soundstage needs to be spead out. The center and mains don't always play at the same time and are producing different frequencies. The amp/avr may be a problem but, I will stick with the set. The RC 64 is a monster center that you should not have a problem hearing unless like Willand said, the room is real reflective.
Do I understand that you may be inferring that the autocalibration may not work due to the positioning and in your opinion a manual calibration may be required? I realize positioning is a big issue.
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Scrappy, didn't I see that you had an Emotiva amp some time back? Comments? I'm not emotional about any product and just like lots of bang for the buck with quality.
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What I think I'm hearing is although further testing is needed the majority seem to think it is the amp. I also understand the comments about the RF-7 positioning, I should turn them upside down & see what that sounds like.
You can see from the photo that the options are limited as long as there is an opposite polarity influence & I'll be here till they carry me out in a pine box! For a number of years I have kicked around the idea of something like the Emotiva XPA-5 and UMC-200. It seems like once you get a good amp it should last forever but the technology always outdates the preamp, processor and the inputs keep changing. -
Always a slippery slope posting a photo! Willand, I understand the narrow sound stage but have difficulty thinking that causes the center channel clarity problem. I would think that speaker is such a monster that my neighbor down the road should be able to hear and understand it. Derrickdj1, yes it has the DRC turned on. Haven't tried a phantom center, that's an idea as well as Scrappy's suggestion. K5SS, the DLP is tilted down which works very well in my recliner. You should see the bedroom TV, it's up on the pot shelf & tilted down also. All those years in hotel rooms, never did like looking through my knees at the TV.
I keep hearing Yahama being repeated & that may be the problem but that's a big step. I keep looking at Emotiva's web page though.I know, I know, I know the speaker positioning sucks but it's better than it was when they were behind the furniture. She doesn't mess with my work shop & is very vocal about her area. I haven't been able to design a muffler that works on her but I'm still working on it. Have you ever tried to put a muzzle on a tiger?
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Nothing between the speakers & me, the plant gets moved out of the way during video. The RC-64 is under the TV in the cubby & my seating position is about 20 feet directly in front. I have done the Yamaha automatic audio setup. I haven't really fiddled with tone much, everything else sounds great.
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I'm using DeanG RF-7's in front with an RC-64 center channel and Paradigm rears driven by a Yamaha RX-V3900. I always struggle to understand the verbage through the center channel while watching movies. I always assumed it was my hearing but after a recent hearing test I know that is not the case, at least not entirely. The center volume is good, I'm just wondering what I can do to improve the enunciation?
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Wow, what a thread! I feel fortunate to have had DeanG's help years ago when I used his expertise and did the mod to my RF7's. Very informative thread & great input from youthman and others.
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I've had that problem with my Custom 2's. I have 2 pairs and it has happened with both enough times I carry a large paperclip in the headset case. I now am real careful & pull them out slowly, that helps but not 100%.
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I agree, the first place to look is always the last place the technician touched. [6]
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I will also throw my hat in the ring for the UMC-1 if there are any "throwbacks". I'm also interested in a XPA-5.
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It was interesting, I did one speaker and listened with one original and one modified board. The mod took the "harshness"? out to my worn out ears, there was quite a difference. I didn't spend but a few minutes listening. The mod has had such a following I figured all of you folks know better than me!
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Parts list I used from Parts Express, 2 of each: 005-1, 005-2, 005-10, 027-872, 027-890, 027-938
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http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/37223.aspx?PageIndex=1
T20 Torx, remove horn (it's heavy hang on to it), disconnect the wires (use screwdriver to push terminal down), put horn aside. Back of speaker, remove terminal panel, boards are attached to it. I was only doing the HF board for horn so I took the 4 screws out, pulled the HF board out along with the horn wires. Desoldered all capacitors and resistors & heated board with heat gun to soften the adhesive that holds the components to the board. A hair dryer would work also.
10 ohm resistor in parallel with 2 ohm, I just wrapped the 10 ohm wires around the 2 ohm for a good mechanical connection & soldered it. Mount the resistors underneath the board so there is room on top for the caps. I used hot glue for everything. The 5uf cap mounts on top of the coils, the rest mount in the original positions.
Put it all together and enjoy DeanG's mod.
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Searching through your 17,000+ posts to find the info was the hardest part! [:'(]
With your posts describing the process, especially the heat gun to soften the adhesive and where to mount everything it was equal. I've fooled around with electronics for over 40 years, made my living as a USAF Avionics Tech for nearly 10 years and have a solder sucker, soldering station etc. so that part of the process was easy. I'm not particular about solder resin residue so I didn't spend the time you do making everything pretty afterwards. [+o(] The second speaker was 60 minutes from the time I touched it until it was working again. The biggest time saver was leaving the LF board attached to the speaker on the second one. It really helps that Klipsch puts the parts value on the board so we don't have to worry about making a diagram of part positions.
Thanks again for everything.
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I just installed the DIY version of your RF-7 mod with the parts you suggest from Parts Express and your description of the install which made it very easy. They sound great.
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
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You could always call them with a change of address [8-|] Mine ! [+o(]
You can see from the photo that the options are limited as long as there is an opposite polarity influence & I'll be here till they carry me out in a pine box! For a number of years I have kicked around the idea of something like the Emotiva XPA-5 and UMC-200. It seems like once you get a good amp it should last forever but the technology always outdates the preamp, processor and the inputs keep changing.
I keep hearing Yahama being repeated & that may be the problem but that's a big step. I keep looking at Emotiva's web page though.
Motorhome 5.1 Speakers
in Home Theater
Posted
It is an LG LHB953
Amplifier
Stereo mode: 155 W + 155 W (4Ω at 1 KHz, THD 10%)
Surround mode: Left+Right: 155 W + 155 W (THD 10%)
Center: 155 W
Surround: 155 W + 155 W
(4Ω at 1 KHz, THD 10%)
Subwoofer: 225 W (3Ω at 30 Hz, THD 10%)