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mikieboyblue

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Posts posted by mikieboyblue

  1. Oh my! What in the world happened?? Connected the tweeter to the wrong terminal?

    Well, what a learning experience I had today. I managed to install Crites Crossovers in my Chorus IIs today.
    installed the titanium diaphragms in but ran into problems.

    I managed to destroy one of the titanium diaphragms, and
    then the two original ones I had pulled out. Just for good measure I pulled my tweeters from my other 2
    Chrous Iis and screwed those up also.

    Three more diaphragms on order. Those suckers are fragile fragile fragile. My confidence is this DIY stuff
    is shot..

  2. I've done the crossover replacement and titanium tweeter diaphragm upgrade all from Bob Crites. Big improvement. When I did the crossover replacement, I also replace all internal wiring with 14 ga. speaker wire and newly soldered connections.

    No disc...were your Cornwall horns metal...that is usually the reason people caulk them...your Chorus II horns are plastic and don't ring and would not benefit from any caulking...the woofer cage may be metal...best way into the II is through therear passive radiator...if it were me I would update the crossovers if you feel the need to tweak...since you have experience with DeanG's crossovers, you may want to start there...if not...member popbumper or Bob Crites...you may also want to add the titanium tweeter diaphragm to those tweeters...made a difference in several Klipsch speakers of mine and they were available from Bob and Michael Crites...perhaps from Klipsch too...a warning that some found them bright...I did not and I changed two pair of Quartets (smaller but same Family as the Chorus II) and KG 5.5s...

    Good Luck,

    Bill

  3. Hi Greg,

    The only place I was ever able to find replacement passives was directly from Klipsch. Give them a call and follow the prompt to the parts department. The part number is KD-16. They are in stock hit or miss. If they don't have them now, call back in a month or so.

    Mike

    hello - i need to replace passives on chorus IIs as well.

    Any tips?

    Where did you find the replacements?

    Thanks

    Greg

  4. Hi Gary,

    I had refinished the speakers a few years ago and had stained them Walnut. When I did that refinish I used 300 grit sand paper to take off the oak oil, sticker residue (yes stickers...these speakers were owned by a college radio station that I ran prior to me acquirering them), and sand down other blemishes.

    For the recent refinish, because they were mostly smooth at that point, I used 180 grit sand paper to rough up the wood and remove some of the stain so the paint would adhere.

    For paint I used two coat of Rust-Oleum American Accents flat black smooth finish latex paint and three coats of Cabot fast drying super clear semi-gloss brushing lacquer.

    I did not need to sand between coat of paint or lacquer. I did the entire process inside to cut down on dust. (Just besure to open a window in the house because the lacquer is a killer.)

    Thanks,

    Mike

    Mike,

    Excellent job! I would be very interested in what you did to get such a nice black finish over the old oak cabs. I've got a pair of oiled oak Chorus IIs in need of some work and would actually consider going with the black to cover the imperfections. Please let me know how you got these to create a near-factory finish.

    ...

    ~Gary

  5. Thanks! I finally had time to play with the placement of the speakers and after moving the left speaker a few inches the sound is now even. I used a long piece of string to make sure all four corners of the speakers lined up with the proper location across the room. (The inner front corner is alinged with the outer corner of the couch.)

    They are amazing speakers!

    Congratulations! You did a great job with them! Wow...

    Just switch the speakers to check if it's your receiver being louder on one side.

    Make sure you are centered between the speakers. It doesn't take much for one to sound louder if you're just slightly closer to it.

    I own some Chorus II and they're some amazing speakers!

    Enjoy.

  6. Hi folks,

    First, thank you to each and everyone one of your for your support.

    I finally decided (after more than a year) to take the time and get my Chorus II speakers fixed. I was able to purchase a pair of Klipsch KD-16 passive radiators to replace the missing pair. I also installed the new crossovers and a new pair of tweeter titanium diaphragms from Bob Crites. In addition, I replaced the old wiring with new 16 ga copper wire. All connections (except those connecting to the crossovers were soldered. Lastly, I refinished them. They now have two coats of black paint and three coats of semi-gloss lacquer.

    The following album contains photos of the operation.

    They now sound 200% better. They are much louder and sound amazing. The only hicup is that the right one now sounds louder than the left and I have a hard time repositioning them to ensure the sound is even. I need to acquir a multimeter to check the voltage of the left and right channel to make sure my receiver doesn't have a problem (can this even be done?). Of course, maybe my ears have a problem.Or they are just mis-positioned. Or maybe they just sound so much better I am not used to it. Either way, +1.0 to the left and -1.0 to the right seems to help.

    Thanks all!
    Mike

  7. Whoa, thanks Doc. You and some of the other folks on this forum really amaze me and really make this forum a better place.

    I might not always understand every post, but I do learn something each time.

    I find it interestesting that putting two of these Dayton 15s in the cabinets actually matches stock. Makes me wish I could get the stock PR.

    The main reason why I am still leaning to get a PR is becuase I would rather have the speakers back to their orignal state as oppose to modified with a plug in the back. Who knows...putting the MDF in there is certainly cheaper by many dollars.

  8. Ok, I am going to revive this nearly year old thread as I have still not gotten around to taking care of this...sign...

    So, new question. We were discussing putting two 15 inch MDF discs in place of the passive radiators and possibly adding a port because the passive radiators seem hard to come by. However, will searching for a replacment M&K driver for my father, I cam across these Dayton 15 inch passive radiators and was wondering if that would work as well?

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-194

    Obviously they would be much more expensive than the MDF route but just courious. I actually have to read this thread again to figure out what I was suppose to be doing!

    Thanks,
    Mike

  9. According to my numbers, using two 2" ports would still have the air moving a bit faster that I'd prefer (meaning there would be more of a chance for port noise). I'd instead go with two 2.5" ports (like these http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-478) that are 1.5" long -- or better yet two 3.75" ports (like these ) that are 4.75" long. I'm talking per speaker so you'll need a total of four ports with those options. That single 6" port would have been nice, but the depth of it looks like it might cause issues. If you can find someone selling 5" ports then you could go with one of those per speaker (and make them 3" deep). All that said, you could try the dual 2" ports (since they are 0.75" deep and thus just holes in the wood) first and see how they work -- just position them so you could upgrade them to dual 2.5" or 3.75" ports if need be. Their location doesn't really matter.

    I'm sorry. The one you linked to 8.5 inches long. And I cannot find a 3.75 x 4.75 port on the same site. Also, what's funny is you mention I can try 2 in. ports leaving them at the 3/4 in. deep MDF and see how that goes but how in the world would I know if it is right or wrong. I find it interesting there are so many options. How do you know what to choose or what is correct?

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