wsu99999

I picked up a Marantz 7001 last month and LOVE IT. Got it for well under half msrp and it will play all of the latest HD codecs. Got it off Audiogon. There are deals EVERYWHERE! If you have the money, today is by far the best time I've ever seen to buy used electronics. It's like all the people going into forclosure also liked high end electronics to go with their ARMs because there is a huge surplus of high end equipment for pennies on the dollar. Do some research, but you should be able to find a top of the line receiver for under 500 bucks if your patient. Check your local Craigslist - at one time I purchased an Onkyo NR1000 (or whatever their flagship model was about 2 years ago - the one similar to the flagship integra that allows you to change out the cards in the back so it is truly future proof) (although Onkyo discontinued it and never made any upgrade cards, it was still a cool concept)..... Anyway, I got one of these for 150 bucks off Craigslist from some rich guy an hour away from me and sold it the next day on Ebay for 1200. Just be patient and do lot's of searching. you will find a killer deal.

Wow - so it would seem to be a no brainer. Would there be a way to change the ports on my existing box? I would probably take it back to the guy that designed the box to do it. He said he could build me a 15 that would handle the power of the behringer. I may go with his design. I will show you the specs when he sends them to me and if you could, take a look at them and let me know your thoughts.

OK - Question for Michael and the rest - What other sub could I drop into my current setup that could handle more watts and that would produce more output. The dvc is loud, and sounds good, but I know I can get more. Do I need to go up to a 15, or is there a 12 on the market that will get the job done?

Yeah, the difference is night and day. Now, I need a better subwoofer because this thing can litereally blow the sub out of the box. When I maxed out the gain on the amp and turned up the gain on the 2200, I could see how easily the right note would make the speaker explode!! The guy that built the box for me is a speaker manufacturer. I want you guys to look him up, his company is Pierce Audio Group. Mainly they do car stereo stuff, but he is building me a custom 15" sub that can handle the bridged power of the 2500 as well as go down to 10hz (supposedly). I went to his workshop and it was quite impressive. Much more impressive than the subs on his website are the custom models he makes. He has a lot of HT stuff not listed. I will let you know the results of the new subwoofer when I get it. Thanks for everything!

It was a voltage issue. Now - wow! I knew I had everything hooked up right The voltage from the 2200 is enough to get a solid signal to the amp I guess, only thing I can figure. THANK YOU ALL so much!!

Michael - Thanks so much for the hard work! I appreciate the help. I'm hoping the 2200 adds some voltage and that is the issue with the amp.

Maybe your right. They would have to be labled differently than the manuel and back of the unit state otherwise I have everything set right. What are the settings you ended up doing? What settings would you use if you were just using one channel for a subwoofer (like my setup)?

I thought they were a bit confusing as well. There's the on/off colum on top and some of the on's are in the off colum. I know it's confusing, but I really think I have them right. I've tried every combo I can think of in bridged and non bridged mode. The only thing that could even effect the power level would be the low pass filter correct? Even at 30hz or 50hz, there is still plenty of base in the 60-120 area that I'm not hearing (at loud levels). I can only think of the voltage thing being the culprit.

yes!

I'm pretty sure they are parallel. It's a dvc sub and I have the pos + neg connected to the other pos + neg and then going to the amp (i think). It's been a while since I looked at it and I can't remember off the top of my head, but either way, even if I accidently did it in series and ran it at 16ohms, the behringer should still be way more powerful than the little plate amp. I'm pretty confident I wired it right, but I'm at work right now and can't verify 100%. There were no changes made since I removed the plate amp.

Exact wiring are as follows.... Rca to Xlr cable to amp (in subwoofer preout output) 12 Ga wire from amp to sub I've tried all jumper settings and none increase the output. The amp is hooked up to it's own outlet. I've hooked up the amp in every configuration I can think of (ch1 ch2 bridged)

The subwoofer has dual 8ohm voice coils, ran together to create a 4ohm load. I've ran channel 1, then tested channel 2, then ran it briged (all the while changing to the correct jumper settings) and there is a significant lack of power. Even when it was setup bridged, it was weaker than a really low watt plate amp (mind you a high quality one). I have a RCA to XLR monoprice cable going from my reciver (marantz 7001) to the amp. Today, the Female to Male XLR cable arrives so I will be running it from the receiver to the Ultragain 2200 then from the 2200 to the amp. I read a lot in the forums that the amp requires like 1.7V and I heard that when running from the reciever to the BFD then to the amp, the voltage is increased. I just really hope the Ultragain does the same thing or else I'm at a loss.

Actually, it will always light up when the volume is loud (whenever a bass drop hits), but it's nowhere even remotely close to the power of my 100 or so watt plate amp. I know something is wrong because I shouldn't even be able to turn it up loud hooked up to this amp. I expected to have to turn down all of my settings with the pre-amp and only use the gain at like 50%. I'm pretty confident that it's hooked up right. I got it off ebay from a guy that sells audio gear regulary and it was used, but he has 100% feedback and is a power seller. i don't think he would have shipped a bad amp.

The signal light doesn't always illuminate. Sometimes it will if the volume is loud enough. Its almost as if the amp is on mute.

I've set my sub to as high as it will go in my receiver as well as cranked up the amp all the way. Their isn't much power pushing the sub and with the gain so high on the receiver, I think it's affecting the sound a bit (it's somewhat distorted). The jumper settings are right as far as I know (i have the limiter off, and I read all the instructions). I've heard of some people having issues with too little voltage going from the receiver to the amp, but I'm running a farily new Marantz so I would think it should be ok if any receiver would be. I'm definately not spending any more money to get a converter box that jumps the voltage up - if that's the case, all this gear will be listed on the forum in the "garage sale" section! I also heard that if you hook up a BFD (something I found locally and passed on earlier in this thread for 40 bucks) it will fix the voltage problem. I'm hoping that the preamp will do this as well!

Mike, I sincerely appreciate your help through all of this. I went against your advice and just ran the behringer to my sub without the preamp (or whatever you call it) and have played with all of the jumper settings, but nothing I do seems to give the sub much power. It's clearly hooked up because it's getting a little juice and I've tried both channels with the same results. I know it's probably something stupid - what am I missing?

Hey - I got my Ep2500 today and have the ultragain 2200. Can someone please tell me the settings for the ultragain 2200 that are needed to save my dayton dvc sub from blowing? Thanks!

Oh - forgot to mention... I did get a new box. 19.5 x 19.5 x 19.12 with 2 - 3" ports 18.41 long. 3 ft^3 after displacement and tune to 25 hz.

If the above is what I need - is there anything else? What wires? I have xlr to rca cables (2 of em) will that be enough? Or do I need a xlr to Rca from the Marantz to the ultragrain pro then xlr to xlr from the ultragrain to the behringer? If so, I need to buy another cable too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130288138583&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123 Is this what I need? Please respond - the guy will send it to me for 80 shipped. I think it's the same as what you linked me to, but I want to be 100% sure.

Now I gotcha. Thanks so much for all of the help. So for that Behringer Feedback Destroyer, couldn't I set the gain extremely low on everything below 20hz? Wouldn't that essentially do the same thing? Only reason is it would save me 60 bucks. Clearly my logic is flawed or you would have already said it would work. I guess I'm going to have to spring an extra 100 out. This is getting to be a hassle!

So, if I'm taking this correctly, the Marantz will limit frequencies above say 80hz from going to the subwoofer, I need the device to limit the frequencys below say 20hz from going to it. Is that right?

Man! That is really too bad. So there are only two models of high pass filters that will work. I guess I really don't even understand what the high pass filter does. Wouldn't my Marantz control any signal going to the subwoofer? If I tell the marantz not to send anything out the LFE channel above 60hz or 80hz, how can the material still get there? Thanks for all of your help guys, I guess I really am still a bit confused - although you have all been very helpful!

Behringer DSP1124P - Dual Channel 24-Bit Feedback Suppressor/Parametric EQ Will this work? I found one local for 40 bucks. I need to act quick though.

Darn! I really hoped I was done. What is the absolute cheapest route I can go? I don't even know where to begin to look. I saw the one referenced above and it looked like something nasa would have in a space ship. Are there any little sister models to that one? What would the absolute rock bottom unit be that would still be f unctional? I will probably need your help setting everything up to. Thanks guys! Sorry for being such a little ***** about this, but I really don't know much about what I'm doing obviously.