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Posts posted by bliss53
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I hope they sound as good as they look. How about a cornwall drop in?
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Gratuitous off topic dog picture
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Here is mine. Homemade design and build.
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501 Mark II. The best I have. Better than my Benz Micro Glider, Ace and Zu 103
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Very nice Shelter towing a bit of fuzz.
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Let me throw out an obvious possible solution which I discovered by making some stupid hook up mistakes. Are the any of the connections out phase (positive and negative switched, or a stray wire fray that it touching something it should not). This can cause the flat sound you described. It can also be interesting to switch just the mid drivers phase while leaving the rest of the drivers properly phased.
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I think you should honor their heritage by putting little smurf stickers on them, painting the emblems background blue or put a blue stripe on the rim of the horn drivers. See the bluebuddies site (http://bluebuddies.com/Smurfs_Merlin_Smurf_Stickers.htm).
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I think these are the ones that I bid on that were located near Lowell MA. My bid was rejected and they were sold much later to someone in southern NH. Sounds like these are the ones. You are doing a great job on them. Enjoy.
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Did these come from Massachusetts or is someone cloning smurfs?
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Also check out:
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I know the original post was related to Windows but I wanted share the recording method that I have come across. I use a Mac mini with Pure Vinyl software. I like the Mac because it has no cooling fan to make noise. The software applies the RIAA equalization curve to the raw digital file. The software in my case eliminates the use of a traditional phono stage. I record the raw digital file. In my case I modified the tonearm cable with XLR plugs and connect to a microphone preamp (TC Electronic Impact Twin). The preamp is then connected to the computer with firewire. There are other topologies but this one worked best for me with an MC cartridge. This particular preamp allows for 196/24 files. It also has a good sounding DAC for output at 196/24. The software also includes a plug in for itunes called Pure Music that does a great job up sampling lower density ripped cds and mp3 files. The software is free to try so you have nothing to lose if you have a Mac.
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Wow...Bob very nice. My router and I are now in the technological dark ages.
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What a great toy.
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Do you sand out the taper? I have seen some who put the pieces in a jig and use a large cylinder wrapped in sand paper to produce the taper on two opposing pieces at the same time.
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I have a Richard Gray 400 conditioner. I got it used and my tube gear really seems to like it. The sound seems more grounded...sorry but I could not think of a better word. I do not hear a big difference but it does seem to knock some hard edges off the sound of some of my gear, especially my Conrad Johnson stuff. I have two friends that swear by their regeneration power supplies but these are way out of my budget.
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BLISS53 ...... you mentioned this in your other account ,here it goes ....
As to speaker placement, my suggestion is to leave no more (and no less) than ~56 inches between the front inside corners of your speakers. I would place them so that same front inside corners are at least 4 feet from the wall behind them (experiment with a bit more if you can). I'd place the main listening position at a point just behind (further from the speakers) than would make an equilateral triangle. I'd also toe-in the speakers so they are aiming at the center of the wall behind you when you're listening.
this worked for me towards 70 % improvement , i did the same just a day before i read it ...and though i havent installed or got hold of any bass traps or diffusers , the sound has somewhat become listenable at medium levels .
now im thinking of those corner treatments . and the bass traps.
but what should be done for the stairways and the computer corner .?????
i thank you for ur link , a billion .
I sounds like you are moving towards a near-field set up. In this set up I found that you eliminate some reflection problems but you may loose some depth and fullness. Keep trying the suggestions that do not cost money. I threw up couch cushions, pillows and blankets all over the place to try and figure in out. As far as the stairways and computer desk, these are irregular surfaces that can diffuse the sound so that it does not bounce back in an undesirable way. I only know a little more than what you read in the link I gave you, but it makes sense if you think about the chambers that speaker designers use measure their designs, they want to remove all reflections to measure only the speaker's performance.
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I am not sure what you want me to post. Email me and I can send you what you need in larger resolutions. You should join the forum. It seems to emphasis music over equipment in the discussions.
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Very nice job. Now you have given me more method to consider. I may never make a decision.
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Does any one have plans/drawing/measurements/listening experience for the slotted base bin modification in the picture? I do not know who owns these to ask directly.
Thanks,
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Marc,
I hope you post some pictures,
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I forgot to add that covering a large hard surface video screen also helped the room. But it did not solve the problem. Here is a thread that has pictures and some really good advice.
http://www.stevehoffman.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=121066&highlight=
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I struggled with what sounds like the problem for over a year in almost square room. Square is bad. I lost mid base in my square room. Your room is slightly larger so your loss is a little lower it seems. The label for the problem is mode cancellation. Same principal as noise cancelling earphones. The bass sound waves in a square room meet each other and there is an elimination. I tried a ton of absorption and acoustic treatments and it helped but the only solution for me was to move to a different room. Ironically the best sounding speakers (I tried many) in that room were horns. The bad room had me trying everything i could find and that is how I discovered that horns were for me.
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I have a piece of studio type gear who's dac performed well enough for me to sell my wavelength brick. It is a $400 TC Electric Impact Twin. It is a 24/192 output and input. I use the input for raw vinyl recordings that run through a program called Pure Vinyl on a Apple Mac Mini.
Koa Jube Clones even better than expected....
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
These look great. Congradulations om a fine effort. Can't wait to hear what you think of the sound.