gearfreak

We've seen other altecs with some sort of dampening coating. I wonder if it is the same spray rubber as from the auto store (for your undercarriage) or some special audio sort. I don't think the auto stuff really dries (ever). Maybe a godo thing, but could get messy. I think I will probably do satin on the interior, after some sanding or steel wool to remove existing imperfections. Maybe they'll look nice in raw aluminum though and I'll have something close to Maron's suggestion.

Such a nice green. Alas, these are (flat?) black. When repainting, is there a flat/satin/gloss preference? (for sonic not cosmetic reasons) thanks!

Thanks all. These are black and have the 1" throat. The holes/throats in the cast aluminum 2 bolt adaptors that fit the 22a appear to be machined from 3/4" at the driver to 1" at the mating point with the horn. Thus not a good match with the K-55-V? I'll look up those selenium adaptors and see what they are...

Thanks Marvel, Do you happen to know if they are the only 2 designations? 511B and 511E ? I'll measure tonight. Got started cleaning them up and got the 22a's off and was intrigued that the horn throat looked smaller (smaller) in dia. than the driver's. (maybe there's a 511 with a 3/4" throat?). Enough conjecture.. I'll shut up and just go measure... :-)

Howdy all, I've just aquired some 511 style horns. They have lost the labels, but based on the Peavey 22a drivers and adapters, would seem to be 1", thus 511B? I've been perusing the LH site, but not finding any definative guide of sorts. Anyone have hints for ID'ing whether they are 511B, 511E, etc. ? Any comments on what to do with the 22a's? Have not fired them up yet to see what they sound like as is... thanks

Yes, you will quickly start collecting headshells as well. This is one reason I like to stick to TT's that use the 'standard' 's-shaped-tone-arm' 'bayonnette' style headshells. (all terms typically used to describe them). Easier to swap. Easy to loan to a friend who needs one in a pinch, etc. Then (if not already) you get further into the questions of whether you want ones on the heavier side, vs lighter side. OR which to pair with which cart for the best sound etc. You start buying TT's at yard sales just for the sake of taking the headshell and carts (then when enough pile up, you give the stripped TT's away to members or post them 'free' on that free classifieds site). Don't know about the thorens HS. It can be fun having multiple TT's of different manuf. and vintages, but it can also be frustrating. I have found a vintage series that I like a lot and continue to buy from, which allows me to better concentrate on the differences in the actual media (vinyl) and carts, neeldes/stylus whatever. I have a/b'd multiple copies of albums on multiple decks feeding the same system, to determine which was the better copy, and which played better with a particular cart/headshell combo. (and which combo I liked better).

Mike, I think I have a Grade Green Prestige. Low-ish hours. Less than 2yo. It needs a new stylus. (needledoctor.com, kabusa.com if those have yet to be mentioned here). If interested I'll send it to you and you can put the new needle on and keep if you like it. PM (or however) address etc if so. I'll dig it up and make sure it is what I think it is before continuing. (i.e. don't buy the replacement needle yet) On the vinyl washing note: It is probably sacrilege to some. When I wash LP's (usually garage sale and goodwill sourced), I use the (very clean) sink, with an inch or few of warm/hot water, enough detergent to make some bubbles, and a few capfulls of household bleach. I do 10 or so before bothering to change the water. Sometimes more depending on how much I care about the LPs to be washed. But after 10 or so, the sink is usually starting to fill up and needs emptying anyway. I have selected my softest all-cotton dish towels (usually the oldest ones). They are relegated to LP duty, stored separately and away from sources of cat hair. 1 goes on the bottom of the sink as a matt, then the LP (sink it), wait a few (10) seconds. Less if the water is on the hot side. Then I 'dab' with a second cloth, using decent force, moving in circular motion through the one side. This of course may result in the LP being suctioned (or giving that impression) to the bottom of the sink. To flip without accident, lift the corner of the towel acting as the matt. The process takes 60 seconds if even that. (...longer and most labels start to noticeably deteriorate) Take out of suds, blast groves thoroughly with more warm/hot water from faucet (spray setting) to rinse. Avoid blasting the label. (or who cares... "you don't play the label") Sometimes I finish by spraying with household ammonia. GF does not like this. I just open a window. I dry with the same collection of cotton cloths. I wipe the label first thing, one pass, very little pressure. If they are truly moldy, it will take 3 odd tries or much longer soaking. Usually at that point, we're committed to sacrificing labels. I think that the warm/hot water is key. Albums always only handled by the edges, to avoid fingernail etc accidents. That is why using the bottom towel to flip it works well.

Very nice. Interesting to see the differences inside and out, on that particular model/cab Not to get too OT, but noting differences for posterity, and as there seems to be a derth of info on the LSI. (lost serial numbers etc). : - solder tab K-55_ vs push pin K-55_ - no paint inside and horn bracket/BT black texture pain inside and flat on horn bracket -all black handle, black info plate on jack plate / black-silver handle, silver info plate -different graphics on AA networks labels What's interesting is that they still have the inspected/tested by paper labels. I'd be curious to see if the could be dated based on the names signed on them. (e.g. if tech X left the company in 19xx). That's probably getting a little too in depth of course. Colterphoto1 - do you keep yours all stock? (...and what's the sign in the avatar saying?)

and another for G.Kennedy

and another, though poorer of focus...

Agreed, I forgot to mention that. Almost amazing. The insides as well, not any noticable dust... no decaying specs of wood, and not even a fingerprint. nada. The only oddity were the tweeters... which I only noticed upon reviewing the photos. Could be normal patina of the paint revealling tool marks or something from the metalworking process... but looking at the pics, I'd swear the gold housings were scratched. Maybe they all look like this @ 25+ (?) years. I'll definately take a closer look when I open them back up. As I think I am interested in a pair of ALK networks and Bob's tweeters. ... Will try to wrangle a high res pic in here... the trick seems to be to use the 'options' tab of the post applet that is presented, to include as a file attachment. All other options fail to deliver in IE and FireFox.

Here's *.zip with all the files if someone is interested. lsi_trapezoid_disassy.zip

Thanks again colterphoto1. Dissassembly was a breeze with your commentary, and I didn't remove anything unessecary. I'd note in addition that: -you need to be carefull lifting the top, to ensure that the K-55 does not bang into the crossover. - you'll probably need a snubby swivel-head ratchet and box wrench both 7/16" (at least for this model) I have loosely documented pics of the process, but this interface refuses to let me post them... trying again...

...(assuming they are original) can we surmise anything from the trappings of the industrials? e.g. Mine have a stamped/cast metal jack plate, vs the (we assume newer) plastic jack plate. Maybe that changeover occured across the board at some point? other details: AA, K-77, K-55V, K-43 K-43 cone(back) has "1 79" stamped on it. Possibly Jan 1979 I am thinking likely due to the pristine AA inside. Have tried to discern details of date coding the drivers from other threads. Will keep looking for something that makes some sense with my numbers.

Good advice. Mine are plywood. ...of course, they are designed to be somewhat durable, right? So I was planning to at least wipe, maybe spray down the 'zoids while the components were removed, to get some of the crud buildup (out of the screw heads and where the trim meets the wood, etc.) Would that in general be ill-advised for the black textured finish? Maybe there is a preferred method or solvent?

Fantastic... thanks guys. I plan to try tomorrow or this weekend.

Thanks G.Kennedy. We'll try to get some pics up. I am behind in my pic taking for all threads on all forums. I doubt I can compete with that scenery though!

Planning to disassemble my Industrial La Scala top's (the trapezoid) at least far enough to get to the crossover and see what drivers lurk inside. Mine have the full aluminum trim around the trapezoid. (Have seen others that do not). I was thinking that the jack plate would be a good starting place, for a peak inside... If anyone has experience and suggestions on where to begin, or what not to unbolt/unscrew, I'd be interested in hearing from you.

Planning to disassemble my Industrial La Scala top's (the trapezoid) at least far enough to get to the crossover and see what drivers lurk inside. Mine have the full aluminum trim around the trapezoid. (Have seen others that do not). I was thiking the jack plate would be a good starting place for a peak... If anyone has experience and suggestions on where to begin, or what not to unbolt/unscrew, I'd be interested in hearing from you.

...and now we have a pair of 19?? LSI BT's (industrial 2-piece La Scala's, Black Textured) ...and the bass bin mod threads are making my head hurt. First, tweeters and Crossovers though, will post anew to see what suggestions there are on opening up the trapezoids. thanks all!

Thanks to everyone for contributing, especially the value assessments. As such I think I'll pass on these ones for now, or wait until the seller comes down on the price a bit. I've got some others to investigate as well... will post back what (if) I end up with some. Hopefully I'll be able to report on how some sound with my Almarro a205a SEP. cheers, gearfreak

Thanks all. The cane looks like somebody stuck thier foot through one and did a little hokey-pokey... The other was not much better. Too many rips to repair unless someone was really motivated. If I end up with them, I'll try to salvage it for someone. Fwiw: Going rate for the K-33-E (eminence) from Klipsch replacement seems to be $130. Thanks for clarifying the laminate question Marvel. My poor choice of words. Yes, what I was referring to I would assume is formica. I will do a search on 'cleaning' the diaphragms or try to contact Bob. Did not consider that cleaning was an option either. Good point.

Thanks All. Colterphoto1, Good point about the buzzing possibility. When you say seems - do you mean of the laminate only, or the cabinet's plywood itself? (I guess 'run away fast' is my obvious answer to the plywood aspect) I think (think) they are structurally sound at the plywood level. Unless there is some characteristic stress point that I should be looking for. Corners might be ground down from dragging or walking them. Will have to look.

Howdy all, Newbie here interested in purchasing some older early 70's La Scala's. As they appear to have been used thoroughly (or abused), and (re?) laminated at least once... They apparently were used by a band, so I am interested in knowing what structural/driver/overload pitfalls to look for overall. e.g. -Should I (somehow) inspect the horns for cracks or damage? -Do the diaphragms need to be replaced if old, or is it just a matter of 'they work' or they don't work' They both played, though the woofer in one seemed weak (remained such, in light of L/R switch of speaker cables at the amp and repeat of same test track) I believe the Mid's are K-55-V Networks are AA. Other description: -the laminate would need to be removed. I would probably do so and simply sand and paint, or is that Sacrilege? -Cane grillwork (stapled or tacked on) will need to be removed outright. I would not bother to replace. I assume I'd want to recap or replace (ALK etc) the networks. Hat anyone got a ballpark price on what their re-cap job on an AA cost them? (i.e. using moderate priced and not entirely esoteric $$$ audio caps etc) I plan to ask Klipsch support separately about cost/price for a replacement woofer... Feel free to offer a ballpark idea of what the value would be as-is if you have an opinion. I have no pics, but can describe from memory in more detail. Thanks for any input!