BE36
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Posts posted by BE36
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Check out this link and think about how an electric motor works.
AC Power cords running next to your interconnects are bigger offenders, try to keep those isolated from the rest of your lines -- If cords have to run side by side try to keep like cords by like cords: Interconnects by interconnects, speaker wires by other speaker wires, power cords by power cords etc.
I used to work in a factory that used a Dielectric Welding process to join two thin sheets of plastic, they would keep a loose flourescent bulb on top the machine, if the bulb would "light" a few seconds during the machine cycle, they would know a significant amount of current flowed through the machine and the part probably had a good weld. No light called for an inspection.
Optical connections do not have high bit rates but are unaffected by EMI and do not affect other lines or each other.
If the lines have to cross close together try and make the crossing perpendicular to minimize the affect.
Keeping this in mind when running your lines can reduce or remove hum and improve the clarity of the sound.
Don forget this on internal speaker wires also, I have improved the sound of speakers by routing the wires away from each other but more importantely the cross-over and magnets. Cross-overs that have wound wiring that can really generate bad things. See ALK website on building Unversal networks.
Current in speaker wires generates a Magnetic field, so wraping extra cord around the throat of a horn or around the magnet itself is not recommended.
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Factors that determine speaker wire size are current flow, which we know from your speaker/Amp type and length of the wire.
If your length of run is less than 50 feet 14 Gauge should be fine. See link from Adcom pick a GFA-545
http://www.adcom.com/manuals.aspx
Try to keep the wires the same length not a biggie if they are different as long as the same guage is used.
Keeping them apart, couple of inches, is better so that EMF from one channel does not distort the other but in lots of good installations they are close together.
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I suspect they are damaged and maybe that is why they came back into your possession. That is just my suspicious self. My FII still sound great.
Before you start up grading anything, you should get them back to where they are operating correctly.
I'd suggest:
Put them on a chair or counter where you can see things.
Take off the front grill. You need a butter knife or a big paper clip which you have put a right angle bend about 0.25 inches from the end. You can get this hook behind the grill at an edge. This is just to pull off the front grill, which is held in place by magnets. It will pop off.
With spread fingers, push in on the front woofer gently. A good one will travel smoothly for 0.25 inches. If it feels gritty and jamming, you've got a partially hung up voice coil which has been damaged. It might still produce some sound but little bass.
While you're pushing it in, see if the rear passive moves. The box should be air tight and therefore when you push in on the front, the rear passive will move out. If not, you've got a leak someplace. Inspect the woofer and passive for damage.
As an electical test, if you have something like a 6 volt battery, hook it up to wires feeding the input cup. (Disconnected from the amp). A good woofer will give an impressive thump as you connect and disconnect. If not, something is wrong.
While you have the unit at ear/eye level. Try playing music and listen to the mid and tweeter individually. Some people use a paper towel roller tube as a stethoscope.
Further, even though both may be damaged, you might find interesting differences which will indicate something gone astray.
Let us know what you find.
Wm McD
William you always make it sound simple - Sign of True Genuis.
I would fix what is wrong by start doing what William says and upgrade the speakers and amps till hitting the magic piont.
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Good evening,
I'm Roby from Italy and I'm sorry for my very bad american.
I've listened and/or owned several european speakers with conventional drivers and efficency (5" "woofer", 85 dbW/1) until I've had the opportunity of listen Klipsch Heritage Series. It's another league, another dimension of listening!!!
I love Klipsch sound!!!!!!
I can't install a Klipschorn (should be my next dream...) so I decided to build a Cornscala (that I named Cornscala III).
I bought all the components from Bob Crites (thank you very much for your patience Bob !!!!!!) and he advice me to use the PH 800 horn (the reason is the other Pyle was discontinued).
I started to design my cabinets for the new volumes of the squakers and several internal modifications that I'll do (on the cabinet and on the components). The final result will be (I hope...) a little bit higher than a standard Cornwall III.
Then I started to cut and the glue the MDF with a friend that is a professional woodworker.
If you're interested I'll post more infos and shots.
Thanks in advance for your advices.
Roby.
As mentioned by other members do not worry about your language you are doing great.
I do not worry about the difference between English and American but you show that you understand the difference! Two countries separated by a common language!
When living in Europe I had a harder time understanding English than German!
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Tractrix Tweeter, adjustable Mid like Wilson Audio with added benefit of Tractrix all on top of K Horn Bass -- What a combo!
When done tweaking crossovers and drivers you will have of the performance of a $30,000+ speakers at less than 1/10 the cost!
Way to Go!
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Good chance you are do for some scheduled Mx. Make sure you have them in proper place in the room before spending $$$$.
Did you put them back into the same room? Same spot on the floor? Is the room still acoustically similiar?
Fortes are very critical on placement from the rear wall and side wall distance.
Same Preamp? Same AMP?
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Upgrading while repairing is fun and cost effective.
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KLF-C7 is best if you want to stay all Klipch to replace K-1011-KV, is there a better none Klipsch Alternative?
Is better to have Academy Woofers rebuilt?
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Great Job!
Were are you goning to Cross those?
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Picture of Grill being made.
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Cool,
I think I can be within an 1 or less of 12 3/4 and if they look half is good as yours it would be great!
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Jhoak,
Great Job!
What are dimensions of the tops?
They look a little taller then stock, WAF is driving me make some Tops with Fastracs & JBL2404s that have similiar dimensions to these.
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Finished except Polyurathane.
Trying to determine if Sqwauker should be in 1 cabinet roughly this size and the tweeter in the smaller size or just make one top about 4 taller but the same width as stock.
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Another possibility is the pa/insulation like material in mine was to bring the volume of the box down and dampen wall reflections mentioned earlier.
May be they switched to cotton or vis versa.
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May be some thought their Academy was ported. See Below:
A typical enclosure is shown in Figure 02. Generally, about 60% of the
cabinet volume should be filled with damping material, while being
careful to leave an open path from driver to the vent. For enclosure
volumes up to about 50L, one vent is generally sufficient. For cabinet
volumes of about 50 to 80L, two vents are needed, and for volumes of
more than 80L, three or more vents may be required.FYI Direct radiating speakers should have some foam or other sticky material to seal them to the cabinet. So even if the Woofers where removed at one time if done right they should have factory type seal of some that needs to broken to remove them.
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FYI JBL 2404H Tweeters do not have them. Just watched a Movie with out them sounded better. . . I will get in about 50 more hours listening before making a final determination.
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I would agree with bugs being the criteria.
Listed to 6 tracks that listen to initialally evaluate a change. One rock track, 1 acoustic getair track, 2 female vocal with piano tracks, 1 Jazz track and 1 movie Scene (too predictable Pod Racers Strack 1)
Over all I would agree with many other posts that clarity was improved, most noticable in background female vocals.
On rock track, Dark Side of the Moon, Track 1, I notice that the clock starts at 32 seconds instead 40 seconds were I notice it normally. Also there is Hammer sound around 50 seconds that I never noticed over the clock noise.
On the more Dbz or not: I removed the Left Screen on male voice reminded Dead Center so the conclusion is that it did note increase output. But after I listening to the Femal vocals I would swear that their output was increased. If this increase is a hump in the response curve, I would pay for this imperfection!
I will listen some more to determine if the was my most cost effective upgrade yet.
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Going by memory from a couple years ago, I think there are two pads around 1 inch think.
Might want to try posting in Technical Questions or Updates and Modifications.
The real knowledgable ones on this Forum seem to monitor those more closely than home theater.
If you can wait I will be opening mine up in a week or so to rewire all the drivers and replace a tweeter or horn I will post some pictures.
Klipsch Parts may still have some the orginal stuff for purchase or know if it was in stock or not, I just bought a Tweeter and Horn for my Academy this week from them.
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Wide, Dog House width, version filled an ready for matching Grill Cloth from Bob, Stain & Polyurathane.
I fell a little guilty triming these out before finishing the trim in the basement, but not enough to actually do something about it.
Not that I heard any disortion on the small version but this version should have less?
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I would call it more like an insulation to go on three of the four walls to minimize reflections.
Three out of four walls so that reflections are not symetrical.
If there is more material than an inch or so thick on the sides the volume of the box could be changed enough have a negative effect on Bass Quality - over damped.
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1,700 miles Round Trip left very early Saturday Morning, listened to La Scala's Sunday Evening.
Metro Detroit to Mississippi.
28 hours of driving during 37 hour stretch.
Ten year son was navigator.
Slept at rest stop for a couple of hours Sunday morning.
Too cheap to pay for a Hotel, shipping or boxes.
Curtis was asleep why should he be disturbed?
Spare driver would have been nice, but my son still talks about that trip.
Had to make up another Trip for Heresy I(s) so the 5 year would have a Road Trip of his own and stop complaining about missing "the" Road Trip.
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I know tweeters are not that expensive, but over the weekend my Academy started making some funny noises. Thought it might be a good idea to replace the tweeter or at least have spare since it is over 12 years old. Shipped out the same day less than 30 Bucks for both the horn and driver.
Klipsch could certainaly charge more and have much less friendly customer service.
Thanks Jeremy & Klipsch.
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I never made any mods to my Forte IIs but the best thing I did for them was purchase a McIntosh Preamp. I actually purchased the preamp after I have been listening to my La Scalas for several months. Someone who wanted to buy the Forte IIs wanted a demo so I pluged them in I was very surprised on how close they came to the La Scalas. When I had lower quality gear the La Scalas made a huge difference much less bright. But when using better/warmer amps the difference was not nearly as great, still not selling the La Scalas though. I am lucky to have a wife that likes them even though thy take a lot of space that we do not have.
PS. He did buy them on the spot.
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Someone said the like the sound of the K-55v with the Bug
Screen removed. I read some posts on removing the screen some were
concerned with getting bugs, particals in the diaphram during removal,
and that the design might require them to sound correct.Worry number
1) I was worried about this until I realized that my tweeters did not have Bug Screens for years.
2)
Hold the Driver with the throat facing down, run a small screw into the
screen slowly, after 1 full thread of engagement into the screen pull
straight down. Screen slides out the bottom - all particles fall on top of your
shoes. (Gravity always works, get it to work for you - Henry Ford)3) I will listen and see what my ears tell me, yours might tell something different.
If anybody has tried removing the Screen:
A) How many if any Db drop was required after removing the screen?
Did you like the way it sounded? C) Did the screens come about do to outdoor use of La Scalas? or Do they serve an Acoustical purpose? (Some did not want to redesign a Crossover?)
Did you like the way it sounded?
Speaker wire size for RS-42's?
in Home Theater
Posted
Running surround wire side by side would most likely not create a noticable issue to most people. One channel is on the other is off a lot, they are not used alot, volumes/power levels are low when they are used etc. but for the same reason as power cords you would try to avoid running them next to each other.