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BE36

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Posts posted by BE36

  1. That is best explanation I have heard on the difference between the tubes and solid state. I heard tubes called valves and read a little, very little on Mosfets etc but never made the connection. You have a correlation level of understanding, the highest level, and explained clearly and quickly, Thanks!

    In search of Valves or Gates that have tight bass and warm silky mids. . . Biamp? . . .

  2. Used monster from the Shack after Reading Several articles that said it did not make a difference as long as it was the correct gage. Tried 12 gauge Romex, house wire, after reading that single stand is better - less "skin" friction, somewhat believable if you understand how water flows through pipes - did not hear a difference but it was easy to bend the cables away from other cables etc. so I kept it. Tried CV-4 from Audioquest, heard a huge difference more detail and practically removed Static/hiss from the tweeters. Warmer in the mids, more detail in the bass. I clamped both the Romex and CV-4 directly to the screws on the cross over eliminating a spade connector that the Monster Cable had due to be a stranded cable. Went back and but more to wire from the Cross overs to the tweeters and squawkers, heard a slight improvement in the Mids, warmer, also removed the blade connectors. Having RS-7s with Heritage in the front did not bother me until I replaced the heritage wire, now the rears sound too bright/harsh. I have read much from Roger R. from McIntosh, see equip. list below. If the switch box added a bunch of noise to the signal it my hard to tell the difference in cables hooked up to the switch box. I tried a switch box to hookup my CD player with variable outs direct my amp, it was much worse than direct to the amps so i ended just unplugging until i could afford a good preamp. I am willing to take a double blind test, off to buy wire for the RS-7s. . .

  3. Hooked up CV-4 speaker cable a week ago sounds great, I had tried Monster and 12 Gauge Romex - not much difference between the two. CV-4 has all the detail without the hissing in the tweeters. I had tried JBL2404H tweeters and thought they sounded better than 77s but I could not handle the increase in the hissing. Now that I have hooked up the CV-4 I have purchased some JBL 2404h's and will trying them out this weekend. Also got rid of the Blade connectors and looped the wire around the attaching screw, just like a home electrical connection, at the same time so it may not all be in the cables.

  4. From the Klipsch Commercial Website/Brochure:

    KPT-Jubilee® 535

    45Hz-19kHz ± 3dB,-10dB @ 34Hz

    500Hz, 5kHz

    LF 0ms MF 2.27ms HF 2.81ms

    24dB/Octave

    105dB

    Horizontal 90° ± 20° 200Hz-18kHz Vertical 60° ± 20° 600Hz-19kHz

    LF Device KPT-KHJ-LF MF Device KPT-402-MF HF Device KPT-GRAND-HF-T

    77.25" (196.2cm) Tall

    41.5" (105.41cm) Wide

    24.25" (61.6cm) Deep

    265 lbs. (120.6kg)

    Would be shorter with just a 510 etc.

    Sorry I have not figured out how to get line returns to work on the new imac.

  5. 1) Where do you Like sit at the Movies? Front or the Back? Center? Answer this question and figure out the ratio of distance to screen and screen width at the movies and you have your answer. Too wide and it is hard to take it all in, too narrow and looks like a 19" TV. Some people have more peripheral vision than others -- what width looks best is personal choice.

    2) The screen center should be as close to eye level as possible, WAF and fitting everthing become an issue. . .

  6. Rich Guy you are right on.

    Switched to the Analog outs and with out the gitter got much better results with 5.1 surround utilizing Master and True, on stereo did not notice much of a change if anything versus fiber.

    To me the big change in quality comes from Redbook CD at 44 Khz and 16 bits to 48 Khz and 24 bits DVD/Bluray etc.

    When I go up to 96Khz and 24 bits I do not here the differance - thinking that my DACs are not up to the challenge or my hearing is not up to the challenge?

  7. I do not have an HDMI on my Processor.

    Based on recommendations on this tread:

    Switched from Optical to Anolg outs on the Pioneer BDP-05.

    For 5.1:

    Seems to have improved the sound since taking advantage of the HD track on National Treasure 2 with out all the Jitter?, noticed birds chirping in the Buckingham Palace scene and when the bee appeared at Mt. Rushmore I was looking away from the screen and thought there was actually a Bee in the house.

    Initial I thought it better to use the optical and let the McIntosh with it's better 24 Bit DACs? to do the Digital to Analog conversion versus the Pioneer with Wolson 8740s doing 2 channels each. Bad assumption?

    For Stereo:

    Did not hear a huge difference most likely Jitter with only two channels over the Fiber is not significanly going over 1.5 Mps? Or a little of the Better DACs on the McIntosh? I do not know what the Mc uses for DACs Does anybody out there know?

    I would like to get the DACs replaced in the Pioneer or try a new Player with better & more DAC to see if there is much of an improvement.

    Does anyone know someone who replaces DACs on BluRay's, Upgrade Caps on Blu-Rays?

  8. Center Channel:

    If you are into movies a close match and better yet the same speaker as the L & R is very important.

    I have spent lots of time & money tring to make what is heritage to heritage match academy with La Scalas work but it would have been cheeper, easier, and higher quality if there was enough room for another La Scala etc.

    Surround:

    I have a small room and the same corner issue with the same type design surround, RS-7, but worse since one is a corner, rear wall and side wall, and the other on the rear wall no corner.

    Corner placement does not seem to a big issue, I have stucco walls open floor joist that help break up the reflection. If you do have a hotter wall you may have to some material to absorb the reflection.

    Timbre matching can be an annoying, and expensive issue, I would stay with the matching S-2.

  9. I agree that an academy has trouble keeping up, over the last year learning the hard way, see below for things that help get one to an acceptable level.

    FYI - I have to make it work - all I have room for and Heresy does not meet WAF requirements. Ideal would be another La Scala with La Scala and very good with a K-Horn.

    1) Chris's network.

    2) Discovering one Woofer was not hooked up when installng Chris's network.

    3) Making sure that the Speaker was sticking out over the edge of the table it was resting on.

    4) Moving amplifers underneath/farther away from center channel.

    5) Making sure there are no power cords, interconnects, Video Cables, etc. are close to interconnects and speaker cables for the center channel.

    6) Good source, noticable difference ESPN, ABC, seem better than NBC and a lot better than CBS most of the time.

    7) Crossing at 100Hz

  10. Screen Size:

    The best article I read on this tarted out by asking were do you set when go to see a movie?

    Then Stated the obvious:

    If you like it up front go big, the back. go smaller.

    Then said but do the math from the theater and scale to your room and viewing distance.

    Each person has maximum angle they can view with out having to move their eyes side to side. Find your max or biggest comfortable angle, determine how far away you will sit then a simple plug and chug the number and you have it.

    I like to sit at the middle back of a theater, so an 80 inch screen at 8 feet viewing distance is the Max I like for 2.35 wide movies and 58 inch for 16:9 ratio, High Def Cable also at 8 feet seems to work for me - Only problem is have 52 inch LCD until the economy turns around or someone wants to get rid of a 3000 panny projector for less than a grand.

    So I sit a little closer for sports and enjoy the movies the best I can until the projector comes along.

  11. Cornwall it is, I do not understand why busy scenes would affect it. Good connections?, some thing off in the Processor?

    Someone that knows more about processors should chime in.

    Picture of my unique room that images well with 4.5' between La Scalas. Stucco walls, Open Walls, Open Rough Red Pine Floor Joists above all help?

    Tilted up slightly ala Craig NOS Valves.

    I would love to have a bigger room but until the kids move out that will not happen.

    If you are in Detroit bring a BluRay or CD and stop in for a listen.

    GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=a9f

  12. The 7 DB sounds about right, La Scalas are around 104 DB at 1 watt & 1 Meter, Heresy around 96 so a difference of 8 Db and you are the same distance away so 7 - 8 Db sounds about right.

    Distance away is huge factor, sound drops off with the square of distance.

    Do you have the same gauge Interconnects and Speaker Cables to your Center? If you have really small gauge wire or a long run to your center channel that could be a factor.

    Try the room calibration on your reciever or get a Sound Pressure meter from Radio Shack and manualy trim when out puting a test signal = sounds harder saying than doing.

    Some movies and even more music do not use the center channel hardly at all, but if the La Scalas working and being feed properly they should image so that it sounds like the Center speaker is doing all the work when this is done in the Mix.

    Good example is Jewel, Alice in Wonder Land, BluRay, OK bad example, nothing goes to the center in the acoustic part but you would swear the center is doing most of the work.

    My La Scalas are less than 5 feet apart, the image is amazing, only issue is that I have to sit 7 feet away or less. . . .

  13. I can hear the difference in new cables, X overs, amps, etc. but having RS7s in the back with La Scalas/Acadamy in the Front has never really bothered me when actually watching a well recorded movie.

    Really only bothers me when I read my equipement list or when talking to an Expert.

    Would also bother me if I hit the Lotto.

    I am less critical of Movies, sounds better than most thearters anyway, and more critical of 2 channel.

    My old Forte IIs sound good with a good amp, preamp, and source.

    I view it as a chain: Person Making the Noise - Person Recording the Noise - Person Mixing the Noise - Source/equipement decoding the Noise - Wires sending the noise - AMPs increasing the Noise - Speakers Playing the Noise - Room the Noise is reproduced in

    Also each of these can be broken into subsytems BluRay for example: Transport, Power supply, Layout, DACs etc,

    As all these are improved the more noticable a weak link becomes, but ironically compaired to the whole, relativily little is gained by upgrading the last component. For proof just ask my wife or kids that noticed a big improvement when the Fortes were replaced with La Scalas but can not hear any differance in the last 3 upgrades.

    Also the last upgrade was the best .... until the next upgrade becomes the best ....

    All that said I would guess Caps or crossovers, if poor or dried out, are usually the best bang for the Buck.

    Others swear by timbre matching, it is probably like money -- it's not everything until you have had it . . .

  14. I use a McIntosh, MC-240, that has been rebuilt. Tube convert from Pioneer Elite and Adcom. 40 watts gets me over 105 Decibels at 8 feet when the pre is around 1/2 volume. Most of the time I am at 1/3 or less volume, around 80 Decibels.

    Using Tubes in the AMPs with a good Solid State Preamp and Velodyne Sub are the best combo I have yet. My pre splits off both channels to the sub at 80hz. Some would consider this a little to low to start for the split for La Scalas but the I love this combo, especially when using ALK's Crossover.

    One of my friends cranked this system up over 110 Decibels at 8 feet no clipping.

    NOS valves, VRD AMPs are very popular on the forum, I plan on listening to a pair real soon.

    Juicey Music Preamps are also popular.

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