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BE36

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Posts posted by BE36

  1. Even though I am Mechanical Engineer I got some of it.

    HDMI connection would still be better? No Buffering?

    Do you recommend a Brand that is higher quality?

    If you come by Detroit we can have a few Daddy Pops and you can hear an Elite with HDMI vs. McIntosh with Fiber on 2 Channel.

  2. Many good comments about HDMI & Fiber Optic Cables.

    I had a system with HDMI / BluRay and both the Pre-amp & Player were able to decode True-HD & DTS HD.

    I switched to older, higher quality pre-amp and Fiber Connection with out the ability to decode True-HD & DTS HD and performance actually improved:

    1) Better preamp much more realistic sound and more detail.

    2) Studio Bit rates are limited - Not many BluRays are recorded at Sampling & Bit Rates any higher than at what DVD's are/can be recorded.

    3) Law of deminishing returns - After 48 KHz by 24 Bits my Ear can not really hear any improvements at higher Sampling Rates. When I had the HD Pre-amp even the super Sampling & Bit rates recodings, Chris Botti 96 KHz & 24Bits did not sound different then when that same disk was played at 48 Khz & 24 Bits.

    4) Well recorded & Mixed DVDs when press at recorded at higher Sampling & Bit Rates, 48 KHz X 24 Bits, Dave Matthews & Tim Reynolds at Radio City for example, sound better than 96 KHz & 24 Bits that was not well recorded and mixed.

    I still like the migration to BluRay since the ability to store more data encourages the use of atleast 48Khz X 24 Bits while still being able to include other tracks, Spanish, French, etc.

    Off note all these bit rates are higher that was is avilible to the Movie Theaters on film. The reason sound is good at the Theater - Room size, Biamping, Good equipement, preamps, amps etc. managing room reflections, speaker placement etc.

    Link to info on Bit Rates:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DTS_(sound_system)

    There may be some Audiophiles that can hear the the differane between 48 & 96 Khz at 24 bits, until I get equipement with higer quality DACs, I can not.

    What I can hear is the difference between:

    CDs at 44.1 KHz & 16 bits versus 48 Khz & 24 bits of DVDs & BluRay.

    Well recorded, mixed and pressed DVDs & BluRays versues not so well done DVDs & BluRays.

    Good equipment and room acoustics.

    So in summary just because there is a lot of data availible from the equipment/cable the room, DACs, Pre-amp, Amp and the Studio have to be able to take advantage of it or it is just cancelled out by the weakest link in the chain.

  3. It the first watt that counts.

    My MC-240, 40 watts, get just as loud as any one could stand and then some. I have never turned volume past half way and have been over 105 Db at 9 feet.

    I have a C-26 and a MX132.

    The C-26 is upstairs and have not compared it side by side to the MX-132 I will do so next weekend.

    The best thing I did for the sound of my system was replace a Pioneer Elite Surround system with a MX132, less than $1,500 used.

    ALK Universal crossovers also make a big difference, I have tried three different types of X-Overs.

    MC-240 also made an improvement but not as much as the other two. Could be as all the components improve there is less to gain. . . .

    The best thing about MC-240/tubes - sounds good at lower volumes so I can listen with out upsetting the wife and kids.

  4. I am not an Electrical Engineer I was probably a litttle to general whe when I said Low Pass Filter. I mentioned the Bryston 10b which would be an active "Spilter" between my Pre and Amps.

    Is a Bryston required? Does a Dbx 223 do the job?

    I would pay a forum member to make a 700hz Splitter that was designed to by transparent or assembly one of the kits that are avialible. (I do all of my own plumbling and electrical but I have never been taught or learned on my own soldering electrical connections.

  5. With the Assumption that I have:

    1) ALK Crossover that can Biamped

    2) McIntosh Mc240 Mids & Tweets

    3) Adcom 535 for bottom end

    Would hooking up a Low Pass Filter, Bryston 10b, be a realivily simple event? (seeting the Cross over at 700hz, Test CD and My Sound presure meter to match the volume and we are done?)

    Do I have to be concerned with any phase or time delays, etc?

    The Mc240 is a great amp and much better overall than my Adcoms but I am looking for my cake and eating to, Crisp Low End with great mids and Highs.

    Bobs Cast Woofers? VRDs any other suggestions?

  6. From the K-Horn manual avialible on Online Klipsh.com: http://www.klipsch.com/media/products/owners-manuals/Heritage%20(english)2005_.pdf

    K-Horns need 25" beyond the Speaker Grill of flat surface. If this is not availible False corners can be built.

    Many more tips on room size are avialible in the manual.

    There are many threads in 2-channel on the distance between K-horns, 7 feet would be on the low side.

    The closer the speakers are together the closer you have to sit to be in the Sweet spot.

    I have 7 feet between the centerlines of my La Scals and neet to sit about 6 - 7 feet away or closer for them to sound really good.

    Hookup em up, sit close and enjoy!

  7. My newbie 2 cents:

    Adcom GFA-545 can be had used for a little over $200 and has 120 watts per channel plus. This amp is known for Very Strong & Tight Bass but still having good tube "like" sounds in mids.

    Only really big down side like all other SS it does not sound as good at low volumes as it does at high volumes. Tubes can sound pretty good at low volumes.

    Do a search on Stereophile.com for their reviews on the Adcom GFA-555, same family of amps, very similiar sound but 200 Watts per channel - very highly reccomended. Adcom just started making it again, $1,000 from a distributor.

    I would buy a used GFA-535, 60 watts per channel plus, $100 used, versus a lower quality new amp from someone else for $200.

    I have owned 535s, 545s, plus an Adcom GFA-5400 and listened to Argon and Pioneers on my La Scalas.

    IMHO for $100 used the GFA-535 is the best value in amps. Has similiar numbers to McIntosh Including, Dynamic Headroom for movies and shaking the walls for a lot less than McIntosh.

    I like my McIntosh MC240 better but with the type of bass you are looking for, you would like SS better and it can be had for a lot less and a lot less hassle.

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