rosc2112

This should perhaps be in a different thread, I wanted to keep this one specifically about the Sonicap's construction/materials, but since we're already here.. Considering that PWK himself originally used military surplus oil-filled caps (yes I know milspec is usually quite high quality), I'd hazard a guess any modern cap will do. Actually, I've been wondering if modern caps might in fact have TOO low an esr compared to the old ones, I'm worried it might change the characteristics of the crossover. I recall reading something about "Q" factor in relation to ESR, and possibly even using a small resistor to make up for the lower ESR found in newer caps, compared to the old. Some of the theoretical stuff goes over my head. Maybe these factors are really too small to tell the difference. At this point I'm leaning toward the ClarityCap SA's, because their manufacturer has been in business for 20+ yrs (it's good to support indepedent manufacturers who don't employ slave labor =) producing their own products rather than rebranding someone elses, they're designed in cooperation with well respected audio engineers (B&W among them, iirc) and they're realistically priced. PWK didn't seem too fussy about particular parts, so perhaps neither should we (my opinion of course I guess since Sonicraft won't disclose the info I was looking for, we should consider this topic closed.

Understandable..I bet if someone cut open a Sonicap, they'd find a rebrand of some other manufacturer.

I've read that review page, it ranks the Sonicap much lower than the cheaper Claritycap, for example.. Still, these are subjective judgements. I had higher expectations for SoniCraft, but they're letting me down :/

Ok, well now I'm pretty upset, the reply I got back from Sonicraft was complete bullsh*t, similar to the arguments I've seen in regard to Bose not disclosing their tech specs cos apparently we consumers are too stupid to use such information to make any kind of informed decisions. This leaves a really bad feeling for me, and pushes me more toward the much cheaper competition's products (at least they're upfront about their products. None of this hiding behind marketing hype crap. I'd sent an email asking for info about the caps manufacturing/materials, and here's the completely useless reply I got (and my reply to the reply.) >>We find that 99.9% of customers are unable to determine sound characteristics from construction details. Our stand is that in reality, none of them can determine sound quality via construction details. We have never had a page that discussed construction details. >>This is what I can tell you, they are all axial lead. The voltages/dimensions are given. If you have some special application requirements, feel free to submit them. If we see any problem, we will advise. >>You are also welcome to contact the President of Sonic Craft, Inc., and the designer of the Sonicap, Jeff Glowacki (940) 689-9800. reply: Does that mean you won't disclose this information? Sounds like Bose's load of BS to hide inferior products. I'm disappointed. -- I don't like being blown off or bullsh*tted like that. Especially when they claim some "revolutionary" bs makes their product worth the 400% price markup compared to their $4 competition.

I'll send them an email to equire

I looked around their site yday, and only found their sales blurb, nothing about the actual manufacturing. Saying its "revolutionary" doesn't tell me much, sounds more like propoganda =)

I've been researching all day/night, and I've only come across one post saying that Sonicaps are film & foil type capacitors. I'm wondering if more info is available? Most other brands I've looked at, describe things like the winding process, soldered leads, film type/thickness, etc. Maybe that's just more sales blurb too, but at least it's somewhat informative. If Sonicap is just another metallized poly type, then there seems little to distinguish them from the competition (Dayton offers 1% tolerance, compared to Sonicap's 5%, makes Sonicap look a bit mediocre in the absence of any other specs.) Don't wanna open another cap debate, just wanna get more specs for the Sonicaps, to help make the big decision

Hi gang, I'm back. I got a pair of tweeters, and now, I find one of the capacitors is indeed leaking, so I'm researching caps, I've read the various threads and reviews here, and, damn am I confused! <p> If anyone would like to chime in on what might be a decent replacement cap, in the $20 or less range, I'd be much obliged. I'm looking at the Jantzen 1.8uF 800V Z-Superior Capacitor ($12 range), but I'd definitely appreciate hearing others opinions about how this might affect the speaker's performance, or other caps that might perform better (Ideally, I'd like the replacement to come as close as possible to the original specs. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the OEM caps were automotive tin/oil types, is that correct?) <p> Also, apparently the nimrod who put the Realistic brand tweeters in here, hooked them straight up to the input power line, and spliced a cheapy 3.3uf cap on the + terminal of the tweeter. Anyone have a good close-up photo of the type B crossover so I can see how this should be wired correctly? I hope that horrible hack job hasn't done further damage to anything. <p> thanks

DrWho wrote the following post at 05-25-2005 3:58 AM: You can also use a metal can (as long as it conducts magnetism) and position it around the magnets as well...it works by deflecting the magnetism. Perhaps a smaller magnet in combination with a can might be in order. [....] I know this is an old thread, but maybe someone can elaborate on this? Any old steel can? Simply fitted over the magnet? How does it effect speaker performance? I googled around a bit, but most of what I found about shielding, revolved around wrapping the whole speaker cab in wire mesh or foil. I've never heard of using a can to cap the magnet before, and the subject has become important to me, because those Cornwalls I found? I can't get within 2' of my tv! Not unless I really like green [grin]

Cool, I didn't know there was another mirror out there

Ohh one more question: Is the grill cloth glued on? How to get it off without ripping?

... especially when the owner vanishes from the trailer park (pronounced long prison sentence) LOL - Well close, but the owner of the park actually did illegal evictions, under pretense of closing/selling the park. It was like a refugee camp and everyone was fleeing. .... how hard to you have to be livin to have this fall in your lap to help even up your karma? Given our lifelong bad luck, it's about friggen time something *good* happened to us. I got some pics today, nice sunny day. I posted them here: http://members.dandy.net/~fbn/klipsche/ And yeah, I just realized I spelled Klipsch wrong (or maybe Paul did? German(?) names usually end with an E? The image "front-logo.jpg" shows the wire grill, and "metalgrill-gone.jpg" shows the front after taking off that stupid wire and picture frame junk. Although, now I have to worry about the cats using the grill cloth for a scratching post! I am glad to see the original WK logo plates are still on the speakers. I could use some advice about replacing the capacitors (specifically, the proper specs/ratings. I can get caps pretty cheap from Mouser, $40 for 4 caps seems a bit much, but then again, I haven't priced caps yet.) I'm a computer admin, so not completely unfamiliar with electronics & soldering. Advice about refinishing would be appreciated too. I'm leaning toward stripping the old veneer, seems like it would give better results and would be easier compared to cutting/splicing bits of veneer to fill the torn spots. The veneer is peeling pretty bad at the edges (Hubby just ripped it a bit more moving the speaker outside for the pictures, snagged it on the carpetting..) I'd really love to see these with a mahogany veneer, or some other type of veneer with a lot of glow & chatoyance. I'm going to give them a good cleaning with Murphy's oil soap, first, see what kind of results I can get that way. I took a couple of broken chunks of veneer and cleaned one, to compare. "veneer1.jpg" & "veneer2.jpg" show the cleaned piece on the left, the current color on the right. There's also several layers of ugly paint on the top (red on top of green afaict.) The more I research, the more excited I get about finding these (And that's usually when the bad luck kicks in - whenever I allow myself to get happy )

I found the url for belgaudio's review of the Cornwall speaker in various posts here, but, as I'm sure many people have noticed, the site is defunct. So.... I went and dug it out of archive.org, grabbed all the important images, fixed the pages to make them usable locally, etc. I posted it here: http://members.dandy.net/~fbn/belgaudio.review.zip Unzip it in a local directory, then point your browser at the directory ( file:///path/to/dir/ ) If it's possible to attach zip files to posts here, maybe a moderator can do that for me (or at least tell me how Then you'll have a static copy of the review on-hand for archival purposes.

PM sent to TWKh. I'll get some snapshots for posting tomorrow hopefully (need full sun for the camera I have, it's pretty low res and does best in full light.)

What is the URL for Bob Crite's website? Google isn't much help.