Rootpusher

Listening to tunes last night (certainly not overly loud, but not background level), I noticed a raspy sort of buzz that I isolated as coming from one of the passive radiators (PR) on certain lower, prominent bass notes. I tried tightening all the screws holding the PR to the rear baffle board, but that did not alleviate the problem. If I placed my fingers lightly against the PR cone while music was playing -- sort of a five finger spider thing -- or placed a finger or two on the surround during those low notes, the problem stopped. No visible damage anywhere. Dust cap appears to be firmly affixed. Any thoughts re: what is causing this (new development -- wasn't happening hours previous to this session) and how I can fix it? Thanks! KAF

I have a line on an MC250 checked out and brought up to spec by mcintoshhomeaudio.com (Tom Manley and Terry DeWick) and a line on an MC2120 checked out at spec by AudioClassics. How would those amps differ in the context of my C504/Forte II system? Which would you prefer and why? Thanks!

Arghhh. I ordered a C1 grade MC250 on AudioClassics web site yesterday -- up at $299! -- and they called today to say the listing was an error, and that it is an "F" cosmetically. (C denotes good cosmetics; 1 denotes amp checked out and working to spec.) The search continues; thanks for all your suggestions.

Greetings! As a result of lurking here, I scored a pair of oiled oak Forte IIs and went the Bob C. route for internal wiring, diaphragms, and crossovers. NICE. I have a high-end digital frount-end, and recently acquired a Mac C504 preamp. I'm thinking about a Mac amp to complete this "vintage" rig and the MC502 that matches the C504 is intriguing, but is not a "classic" autoformer Mac. I'm also looking at a supposedly working-at-spec MC250 (which uses autoformers), but worry that solid state that early could sound terrible with a speaker as revealing as the Klipsch. Any other used Mac suggestions? I'd love to stay under a $1,000. Autoformer Macs greatly preferred over their direct-coupled designs? Thanks

Thanks to all who responded. At the very end of last week, I walked into a pair of $400 oiled oak Forte IIs from 1993 that are in great shape. They're now happily plugged into my system awaiting Bob Crites titanium tweeter diaphragms. (I was impressed with that upgrade to my Heresys, so decided to repeat.)

I have a set of Heresy II. I'm interested in adding Fortes to the home roster someday. I stumbled on a pair of mint KG4 at a good price; should I hold out until I find my Fortes? Can anyone describe the audible differences between the Fortes and the KG4?

I'm going to make a pair of slanted risers so I can try my Heresy II closer to the floor (although I am currently enjoying their sound on 12" high metal stands). How high is the front and how high is the back of the factory-issued model angled risers? Do some of you believe those heights are not ideal and, if so, what heights do you recommend and why? Thanks

I never even took it out -- I was able to thread the wires out through that slit. Judging from your response: Would I be correct to assume that Klipsch arrived at that exact (and presumably optimal) configuration after a lot of trial and error, and that nothing can or need be done to further damp any reflections inside the cabinets? Thanks again,

When removing the crossovers on the '89 Heresy IIs I recently acquired (I'm sending the crossovers to Bob Crites for an upgrade, and also getting the titanium tweeter diaphragms), I noticed inside each cabinet a large piece of light greenish-grey foam -- maybe 1.5" thick, open cell -- wrapped in a "U" shape, with the round side of the "U" following the curve at the top of the woofer, and each long side of the "U" terminating at the interior floor of the cabinet; this foam "U" runs the full front to back dimension of the cabinet. 1.) Is this stock? 2.) How would the sound change if I removed it? 3.) Has anyone experimented with removing this foam and instead loosely packing the cabinet with something like PartsExpress "Acousta Stuf," or some other form of loose fiber packing? Thanks!

Greetings all; I'm new here and it looks like a great place. I joined because: I just acquired ($20 yard sale) a pair of Heresy II (sans risers) made in 9/89; oiled oak finish with a light-colored, basket-weave type grill cloth. One speaker has a 7" diameter, grey, circular water stain on stop; the exposure to water has raised the veneer grain within the circle. The grill cloth on that speaker shows some very slight, small water stains. Both speakers work well and sound fine; there is no apparent damage, water or otherwise, to the baffle board or drivers of the stained cabinet. 1.) Is there a way to clean off the water stain on the cabinet? 2.) Is there a way to clean off the water stain on the grill? 3.) Can the cabinet veneer withstand light sanding? 4.) If sanding is appropriate, what is the best method of matching the original finish? I'm inclined to the Minwax rub-on (satin), one-step oil stain/finishes, probably the one called "Natural Oak." 5.) The grills seem far too thick to be acoustically transparent. (I have not had time to listen to the speakers with the grills off.) Is the grill acoustically transparent, or purposely not acoutically transparent (maybe an attempt to reduce highs)? 6.) Crossover caps necessarily shot after 19 years? Should I recap w/the assistance of Mr. Crites? 7.) Do the horn diaphrams wear out? Or is a case of, "if it works, it works?" 8.) Any other "must-do" mods for these speakers? 9.) I'm enjoying their sound on 14" high stands; do some feel that the speaker is "voiced" for floor (or low riser) mounting? Thanks in advance!