ClintonH
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Posts posted by ClintonH
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Just read your thread and yes that does look appealing. My only concern might be how close together the LR would be if I tried to squeeze them into the screen width. I guess I could just build an entire front wall that is AT and leave them about where they are. The other part I need help with is best placement of LR (distance from from front/side wall etc) Thanks again for sharing.Just throwing this out there.
If you can swing it I would 100% go with a Acoustically Transparent screen. I just converted mine over to AT a few weeks ago (my thread is a few down from this one) and It is IMO the best thing I could have done for a theater like experience. And it was super cheap to do, would be even more so if your in the US
I also went with matching LCR which was a huge improvement. Just another option before you really start building.
Edit: Found this pic on AVS. Guy built a floating screen. I could just hide the center?
That's basically what my screen is behind, it just floats infront of the speakers. And yes you can still put your L&R on the outside of the screen if you want no need to cover them if you think they would be too close. Just for reference my screen is 96" X 54" and sits out 12.5" from the wall. An my mains are 93" from outside edge to outside edge behind the screen with a small amount of toe in, I feel they are better placed then when I had them on the outside of my screen beforehand. IMO being too close to the corners make them muddy.
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ClintonH- I really don't want to loose the space that would require. Since I am a novice, I'm impressed with what I have, I'm just wanting to make sure it's set up the best it can be.
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I get that, your not actually loosing any space since your speakers are taking up the space reguardless. You will loose about 1.5" more depth than you have now, My screen is exaclty that distance from the front baffle of my speakers. Like I say just throwing it out there, if your in the US it would only cost you around $70 is for the fabric.
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Thanks for your welcoming reply.
Distance from main seating is about 13-15 feet. I'm trying to keep the room usable for more than just fixed seating.
Projector is mounted at about 12 feet.
Screen size is where I'm really torn. It may sound funny but it drives me crazy that previews are not show in the same format as the movie, so I'm confused as how to set it up. If I build a 16:9 and adjust the projector to fill it, the previews with food over the border no?
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That's the issue with movies and HD TV there is not set format, there are 3 main ones (and few others) 16.9 and 2.35. If all you do is watch movies 2.35 would be a good way to go but you will get black bars on the sides when you watch a 16.9 movie. Go the other way and you get black bars top and bottom. You just need to pick which bothers you less, I went 16.9
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Just throwing this out there.
If you can swing it I would 100% go with a Acoustically Transparent screen. I just converted mine over to AT a few weeks ago (my thread is a few down from this one) and It is IMO the best thing I could have done for a theater like experience. And it was super cheap to do, would be even more so if your in the US
I also went with matching LCR which was a huge improvement. Just another option before you really start building.
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I had the opposite happening, pop on my pro amps (for subs) when I shut down. I traced it back to my Cable PVR. Ended up running a grounding wire from it to my AVR and a isolator on my coaxial cable. I believe it was the isolator that fixed it for me. But it could be a lot of things just have to go through the elimination process.
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Looks awesome! Wakejunkie made a DIY screen with two layers is spandex. Think it was silver in front and white in back. Looks fantastic
Thanks man
Yes my screen would be the same white with the "silver" on top, that is what it is listed at but really it's a light grey. This stuff is Canada only (first time for everything) tested a bit better than the stuff from the US that was tested. Just a bit better for AT, not sure about picture. -
I don't think I could pay $1100 for R2D2 LaScalas when I could get a pair of mint LaScalas in original finish for that price.
In the US yes here I would. lol Our prices and availability seriously sucks.
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Not a bad price, but man someone shoulg have taken away all his paint brushes. lol
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Sorry for the double post, had time to take a few screen shots last night before we put on Spectre (wow talk about ATMOS experience in that)
These are taken with my Galaxy S6 so still just phone pics since I can't find my real camera. lol
Still can't believe I am getting this kind of image on a piece of light grey Spandex.
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Hmmm...the youtube video's I'm looking at show that you need a multimeter AND a clamp meter to test for wattage output on an amp. Is that right?
Only if your testing a car audio amp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq2goZXCbMM
Okay, thanks again. So you turn up the gain until you can hear your speaker distorting? Is there any danger in that? Does it matter if the speaker is in, or out of the box? Is it easier to hear the distortion with the speaker in free air?
That's just a example to show how you measure, AC voltage BTW.
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Hmmm...the youtube video's I'm looking at show that you need a multimeter AND a clamp meter to test for wattage output on an amp. Is that right?
Only if your testing a car audio amp.
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Those JL boxes are gorgeous!!!
Thanks that was the second sub I built for this space, it went super quick compared to my first.
The JL is far better in every aspect besides maybe looks, I really liked my original build but the wife hated the size so it had to go.
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The RC-7 is leaps and bounds ahead IMO.
It's a really solid center for sure. I'm still going to build a version with 2 10's to better match up with the RF7's
Ha, perhaps I should just build a custom center! That would be really awesome! How would you go about doing that, where would you buy the drivers, ebay?
This is where I ordered my drivers for my RC-7 hybrid LCR speakers. The 8" drivers out of the RC-7 have been replaced by the K1122 8" out of the RC-35, I measured it compared to the original with TS specs and it is within 1/2 dB through the range. I would call it a wash since it was 2 different test jigs and newer or older drives etc.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/klipsch-k1122-ob-8-lf-speaker/
Here is my thread on building these if you want ref and if need help feel free to ask.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161905-lcr-rc-7-hybrid-tmm-configuration-or-mtm/
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13W7 isn't that a car subwoofer? A very good sub nontheless I used to have the JL Audio 12w3 and that thing was pretty damn good! How's it working out for in home application?
Lol yes but it's not your average sub and it's almost exact to what they use in there home line of Subs. The Fathom hase a little stronger motor and a bit more excurssion, other than that same dirver.
And yes one of these destroys my old TC Sounds LMS 15" that was in a 4 cubic foot box.
I have two 13W7's (other one is not veneered yet) each in 1.875 cubic foot sealed boxes, they extend fairly flat down to 10hz in room and they will take everything the Nu6000DSP can give which is 1800 watts per channel RMS .
And behind the couch for nearfield I have a 12W7 run in a 1.375 cubic foot box, it will be run off a NU3000DSP 1800 watts RMS. It's running off one side of the Nu6000 right now since I only have the 2.
Anyway yes they are fantasitc subs, very happy with the time and effort I put into em.
Here is the the first sub measurement with REW no EQ etc, the dip at 60 is a room null where I had it placed. Don't pay attention to anything after 10hz, REW is not accurate past 10 as far as I have read.
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AT screen is 100% the way to go.
It won't be too long until I am able to experience it firsthand myself. Can't wait!
Your going to love it, you'lk wonder why you didn't move that dirrection years ago.
At least that is how I feel.And to follow up I got word on my center drivers, they should be here Tuesday so I should have that in by mid next week I hope.
Also finished up a cover for the AV rack (of sorts) lol It's just black speaker cloth wrapped around a 1" square poplar frame.
I'm now thinking about a motorized masking system for the top/bottom, will be very light and simple if I can make it all work.
For reference if anyone is curious or missed it here is the build on the LCR speakers and the RC-3 crossover rebuild to RF-7.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161905-lcr-rc-7-hybrid-tmm-configuration-or-mtm/
And I took a measurement today of the right speaker with and without the screen as well as without Audyssey incase anyone is interested. It is set to Audyssey Reference with dynamic EQ on, so I am guessinfg that is why the large bump at the top end. 3ft away center of the right speaker.
Blue - no Audyssey Red - with Audyssey no Screen Green - With Audyssey and screen in place
And for the record I ran Audyssey with the screen and everything in place as it would be while watching.
I absolutely agree with you about AT screens. We love ours.
I'm surprised by the bump at ~ 14KHz. Usually, Audyssey Reference reduces the treble (compared to Audyssey Flat) by about 2 dB at 10KHz, about 4 dB at 15Khz and about 6 dB at 20KHz. True, DEQ will turn the treble back up by some if you are playing at low SPL, but the main effect of DEQ would be to boost the bass at lower volumes. Your measurement (REW?) was very close to the speaker compared to where the Audyssey mic positions would usually be, so your measuring mic probably was "hearing" different response than Audyssey would "hear" during calibration. How far from the speaker is your usual listening position? I'm assuming mic position number 1 of the Audyssey calibration was done at ear level at your main listening position. Did you use all 8 mic positions during Audyssey calibration? Your graph seems to go down to only 120 Hz -- is that where you are crossing over to the sub (which wasn't on)?
Yes your correct I was at 3' and my MLP is about 11.5'. And yes the front subs (soon to be Subs) are at 120hz and rear (couch kicker) is at 80hz. And yes used all 8 postions when I did the setup I'll have to redo it again when I get my second 13W7 veneered and back up front was well as my matching Center finished up and in place.
I was actually posting up the measurements to show the AT screen works really really well for 2 layers of heavy lycra, it does not change the sound at all that I can hear and the graph shows little attenuation. I just thought it would be a good time to see how Auydessy actually shaped the sound from a raw measurement, I'm sure it would look much different from the MLP. Once it's all finished and new speakers/subs are in there place I'll run REW again at the MLP and see how it's all looking.
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And to follow up I got word on my center drivers, they should be here Tuesday so I should have that in by mid next week I hope.
Also finished up a cover for the AV rack (of sorts) lol It's just black speaker cloth wrapped around a 1" square poplar frame.
I'm now thinking about a motorized masking system for the top/bottom, will be very light and simple if I can make it all work.
For reference if anyone is curious or missed it here is the build on the LCR speakers and the RC-3 crossover rebuild to RF-7.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161905-lcr-rc-7-hybrid-tmm-configuration-or-mtm/
And I took a measurement today of the right speaker with and without the screen as well as without Audyssey incase anyone is interested. It is set to Audyssey Reference with dynamic EQ on, so I am guessinfg that is why the large bump at the top end. 3ft away center of the right speaker.
Blue - no Audyssey Red - with Audyssey no Screen Green - With Audyssey and screen in place
And for the record I ran Audyssey with the screen and everything in place as it would be while watching.
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You are way more capable than I when it comes to DIY.
Great looking room, I bet it sounds awesome!
Thanks but you would be surprised what you could do if you research a lot. lol I spend 90% of my time reading up and making a game plan. It's all thanks to others that shared the info in the first place.
And yes soulds much better than the way I had it, AT screen is 100% the way to go.
Even though it makes perfect sense, I had never even thought of the idea that you can build a real theater at home with a screen and speakers positioned behind it. The setup looks so darn good, and unlike 99.99% of home theaters, you have ZERO of the talk/hype about center speaker position. My only question is why I picked the wrong friends growing up
Beautiful setup!
I can't take credit for that I'm just following what others have done.
No sorry I guess I should have put that picture first. I worte above it, That is what it looked like before I tore it all out. I built it into a shadowbox with speakers on the sides about 8 years ago that is that picture # 3 shows. I have since upgraded to a projector with 2.5X the lumens and no longer needed the shadow box and wanted to go AT screen. The sould coming form the proper location is sooo much better than under and beside, should have done this years ago.You did a great job!!! That room looks nice and I say sit back and enjoy the show.
Thanks I plan to.
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I did just that in a room with a large window on one side and a recessed area on the other that would not let me do in wall or free standing. I spoke with klipsch tech guys and they agreed they would work. One caveat, the tweeters are opposing left and right to allow for a wider field when in wall at ear level. In the ceiling I moved them closer towards the center than normal with horns facing front to back. I felt this would get the listening area in good range of horns. Have enjoyed them for about a year now.
Not sure I follow what you did with your speakers? I was looking to use them as standard surrounds to replace the RS-42's I have currently (same type WDT) I have since conviced the wife I don't need to spend the $$.
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The crossover schematic is in the Crossover thread, here it is
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Very nice. I love seeing DIY builds. It just goes to show that you don't have to spend a fortune to have a nice dedicated home theater.
Thanks
Yeah wish I had a dedicated room to do something like yours, will be the next house. For now a gym/theater room will have to do. lolGoing to install a cap on that window frame when I swap out he RC-35
Just fill it in with rigid acoustic panels, actually works quite swell. Very lightweight, insulates, and any extra sound absorption typically isn't a bad thing. You can order them one at a time for cheap, they're like 15-20 bucks.
In the US I would guess that would be the case here there is nothing you can buy for that kind of $$. I was thinking I would just make a 2X1 frame with rock wool wrapped in speaker grill material since I have a bunch. It will be mostly hidden when I get it done anyway, I have 3-4 Ironman helmets and Captain A helmet to go up there. Just have to get cracking at making some of them, never enough time in a day.
Very creative and a decent amount of DIY elbow grease can do wonders. Looks great and a great use of the space. Do you put up false panels on the side of the screen for movies? It looks that way from pic 3 to 4.
No sorry I guess I should have put that picture first. I worte above it, That is what it looked like before I tore it all out. I built it into a shadowbox with speakers on the sides about 8 years ago that is that picture # 3 shows. I have since upgraded to a projector with 2.5X the lumens and no longer needed the shadow box and wanted to go AT screen. The sould coming form the proper location is sooo much better than under and beside, should have done this years ago.
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I decided about a month ago to redo my theater build since it's not actually a dedicated room and it just looked to dark and closed off. It has a gym setup behind the couch and it's open to the upper floor as there is no way to do a door, open concept split level.
I wanted to go wtih a AT screen and Atmos, so new AVR and screen I needed to rebuild my screen and setup.
Bought a Denon AVR X4100 open box for a good deal and 4 6" coaxial OSD in ceiling speakers.
Screen is 1" ceder frame with a layer of white lycra and light grey, I went with the light grey to get better viewing with the lights on. I have a Optima HD25VL so it has a ton of lumens so the grey didn't make it any darker once calibrated back up. But it does make for far better viewing in the light and detials in the dark areas are way better.
I have only one of my JL 13W7's running up front right now as well as my JL 12W7 behind my couch, both running off a iNuke 6000DSP. The other 13W7 is being finished right now since it was raw MDF, will go on the right side once finished in a week or so.
Speakers I built out of RF-7 CD/Horns and RF-35 woofers (RC-7 Replacements) with modded RF-3 crossovers, which are now RF-7 corssovers for the most past with Solen Caps and mill spec resistors. So basically a larger RC-7, I'm still waiting on the 8" drivers for the center channel but it's all ready to go when they get here. Just have to pop the screen off it's mounts (about 30 sec) and swap out the RC-35.
Still have lots to do but so far the rebuild is going well and a really tiny budget.
Frame for the new screen, Going to install a cap on that window frame when I swap out he RC-35
LCR brackets and speakers in the new home.
What it looked like for the last 8 years or so.
What it looks like as of last night.
And 2 bad screen shots late last night, movie is not paused (PVR was acting up) First one is with the lights full on at the front and second is with them at about 25%. I'll take some better screen shots when everything is done.
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Staining has begun!
Very nice. And awesome choice of color to go with, just a fantastic look. First thing I did when we bought our current house was the full upper floor in 3/4" Imperial Cherry Hardwood.
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I am not so sure about that. With all of the press Atmos and DTS-X has made recently, I am sure there will be updates available. At least I hope there will be...
That's fine, but it's not going to add in the extra amp channels needed etc. I'm sure it'll be another hardware upgrade you would have to purchase after the fact.
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Yeah, a good receiver can run around $1,500.
The one thing I don't like about the advertising is that they don't show the power wires, which each speaker still needs..
If you want to stay 5.1 or 7.1 you wont need a reciver, but if you want room calibration or DTS:X, Atmos or Auro you'll still need a preamp at min.
Yes my screen would be the same white with the "silver" on top, that is what it is listed at but really it's a light grey. This stuff is Canada only (first time for everything) tested a bit better than the stuff from the US that was tested. Just a bit better for AT, not sure about picture.
DIY Speaker Placement and Screen Size
in Home Theater
Posted
Matching LCR are far better for sound seamless across the front, being they are all matching and all vertical. I just went this way and it's a huge difference in sound stage.