ifi123

me and some other guys here managed to fix our iFi docks with one capacitor replacement, as ronwes mentioned. it's a 4700uF 25V capacitors. you can definitely send it to someone who do this kind of soldering jobs since it's pretty straight forward. the cost of the capacitor itself is probably a dollar or two. please read page 7 of this thread.

I just got off from another forum. someone is experiencing the same thing, subwoofer hums at 50-60hz when not in use. when I suggest him to wiggle the DIN cable,he claims the hum stops when he wiggles it. so, just like my iFi, watchout for the fragile DIN cable.

i guess if you're hooking iGroove it shouldn't be too difficult. just have to match the battery and the iGroove DC input rating.

I am replying to my post back in December '10. Within light to moderate usage, I can conclude that my iFi has been working 100% now. However, certain position of dock cable (mini DIN) especially if it's like how I used to setup, can cause the iFi to shut itself off. Now I'm pretty sure that if I change the whole 9pin mini DIN cable altogether the problem will be solved, except it's quite difficult to find the plug and cable. For those who have malfunctioning dock, please do try to play around with the dock cable. It appears that the cable is fragile and it may cause the shutting off issue. Also try to replace the 4700uF 25V capacitors since it supplies power to the dock. Many thanks to everyone here who assisted me especially dbert and fuzion78. It's very nice to have the iFi back w/o problems.

you can try plugging the promedia 2.1 into the SWS slot. but without promedia 2.1 control pod i'm not sure if it's possible. beside, i don't think it will make any difference to the dual 8" from your PM Ultra.

Suggest a contact cleaner. i usually use silicon based liquid from car dashboard grooming stuff since i have plenty and it works well with volume knob, even hinges. do not use WD-40

at the end of the dock. i cut about 2ft of the cable and solder it directly to the dock board. before that, if i wiggle the DIN cable either left or right channel will go out. occasionally the dock will shut itself down.

iFi on a computer = awesome. well at least compared to other PC speakers on the same level.

okay. several pops this morning. and when i moved it into another room, the wire gets worse. so i decided to cut about 2ft of the cable from the dock, remove the socket, and solder the wire directly into the board. bare with me for the mess since i am not good in soldering. i guess the DIN cable is the culprit for now. btw mine is the 230V version.

if i remove the 'resistor' i wouldn't able to power up the iFi because apparently it has been cut thus leaving the power and fuse lead an open circuit. it was wired to the burnt marks on the right but i moved it to the left so it looks neater. bad news, another pops and short crackle within 24h left on with iPod Nano 2G (8GB) docked. good news is yes, no more hissing sound. before the caps replacement i can hear some hissing when it charges the ipod and it's noticeable. i have a feeling i need to change the 4 bigger caps into better one. well, i probably change 5 of them. thing is i need to find 'taller' instead of 'fat' capacitors so it can fit without having to use cable or separate small PCB. probably do it next month when i got the time. what happened with your iFi?

[uPDATE MAY 2011] Here is how I fixed my Klipsch iFi dock problem: i just replaced the 4700uF 25V with United Chemi-Con SMG 6800uF 25V. i bought 5pcs of ELNA 6800uF 35V but it's way too big for any 5 of them. paralleling them is possible but not now. In my used iFi I found that there is one resistor between the main AC line (track have been cut open, it wouldn't run without it) probably to prevent blowing of fuses. It turns out that my DIN Cable is also busted. the weak DIN cable is to blame. so I cut the cable and re-solder them into their pins at the dock, because the problem lies just behind the dock, not at the end of the plug. After months of light usage and transport, my Klipsch iFi still works perfectly as new. Just a piece of advice it take good care of the weak DIN cable.

i forgot to add, commonly it happened because there is loose solder. try to wiggle every component and see if it persists, or see if anything could be re-soldered. that's what happened with my iFi and another non-klipsch PC speakers.

I guess that explain these?

I just noticed there are difference between the earlier and later Promedia 2.1. source: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000062VUO/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_all http://www.laaudiofile.com/pm21.html i think that explains the lesser screws on the metal backplate. promedia 2.1 wireless still have 'many' screws though.

mine gets worse until it's unusable. kept turning itself off. so i decided to open the back panel and wiggle every components. now the damn thing doesn't shut itself off but has random pops that gets often if i push the bass level at maximum. at least it's usable now. yes mine is also using rifeking, cheap caps found in crappy mobo, i heard. according to this guy: http://www.rvramblings.com/?date=2009-12-03 there is one 25V caps apart from the four 35V caps on top. if replacing caps helps, i would try to replace mine too.

If a vacuum cleaner or tweezers cannot suck out the pin that stuck on the female part, maybe I suggest you to open up the speaker and substitute the connector. The problem is to find a set of male and female connector that has the identical size. Otherwise, I will recommend using set of male and female MOLEX since it supports up to 4 pin, easy-to-wire and is easy to upgrade / replace in the future.

Somebody managed to successfully repaired his iFi which has blown fuse and capacitor. http://www.rvramblings.com/?date=2009-12-03

that's great if your speaker isn't warm. cause i'm living in a warm place. yes, you don't need a on/off switch as I never touch them as well. just leave them on 24/7 like wi-fi roouters. lol

I leave my PC speakers 24/7. recently then I noticed the back panel gets quite hot even after long period of inactivity. Not only klipsch, but altec lansing and logitech as well. then I decided to blow it using a 80mm 12V fan via extra 12V DC adapter, or with USB (slower speed). Mount it using little blutack dots for the gap. Small laptop cooler also works. I don't know if it actually helps to protect the equipment this way, but the temperature have been decreased significantly.

I recently worked with my old PC speaker system, re-wire everything back and i have same issue. except the speaker i mess with isn't my klipsch. All i can say is check the wire, when they overlap each other. or even grounding circuit isn't perfect. touching metal parts also. have you try operating the promedia with the amp not screwed in place? i know they will sound bad but if it works fine when it's detached then clearly there's problem with the wire, just like my system.

Just like typical home theater setup, SWS allows you to connect to extra powered subwoofer.

disconnect the audio cable to computer and see if the buzz persists.

i don't think so... although it would be great if they come up with promedia 7.1 with optical and coaxial in (like gmx 5.1) and traditional analog in (like promedia 5.1). we all know klipsch already prove they can do it, just clearly reluctant to continue making more.

First, All your peripherals such as tv receiver, x360, ps3, wdlive audio should be all connected to your TV. Then, just plug the promedia into the 'headphone' jack from your LCD TV and therefore it will replace your TV speakers. Also you can control the volume with your TV remote.

no idea... but i somehow thing it may be the dock. sometimes mine would only sound at left with the dock light off (both indicators), sometimes only right and sometimes no sub. well that seems to be the common thing people are complaining... including me.