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Everything posted by Stevo

  1. You have got to be kidding.... no crossover at all?? Insane. So both loads were being driven by the full signal? What were the jacks plugged into, just nothing? That is interesting. Were they bridged internally or simply independently wired, each driver to each jack? Perhaps the previous owner had biamped them.... ? Just a thought.
  2. Bobby, If I had done it right, the same fix would likely have worked for my board, good call. I can't see evidence of them necessarily having been replaced, but I believe these were from the era when industrial and manual solders looked the same, so much of what I've seen could go either way. They both seem to sound good; although I've been spending time on the amp and acquiring the rest of the setup, so I haven't strenuously tested them. Good job man. Stevo
  3. Thanks Colter. Bobby, I'd put enough signal out of your amp to get a decent bounce in your needle when you measure AC voltage exiting your amp (Red probe to Red out, or positive; Black probe to Black out, or negative). When I say "signal" I just used a current pop tune with a lot of fluctuations at all frequencies, that way I'm going to get a good oscillation no matter where I am on the crossover circuit, high or low freqs. I also have a clip to attach on the end of the probes so that I could clip the black probe to the -HF in. Verify signal across +HIN / -HIN. Leaving one probe (black) on the -HIN, proceed through your circuit with the other probe (red). from each component to the next, checking for the voltage fluctuations before and after each component. The place where your voltage disappears is highly suspect - that component, or solder, is where I'd begin your further testing. Being firm here is, IMO, okay - I'd use that red probe to press on the solder joints, to see if they're loose. I got lucky in that I pressed hard enough to expose a loose solder joint *purely by accident*. When you do find that disappearance in voltage, I'd suspect the joint where you located the disappearance, and the component before that joint, and the joint before that joint, and the joint after that joint. That's a lot of joints..... I.e. if your troubleshooting went like this: +HIN (okay) .... joint to transformer (okay) .... joint after transformer (okay) .... joint to capacitor (okay) .... joint after capacitor (NO VOLTAGE HERE) .... then I would suspect the joint after the capacitor, the capacitor itself, and the joint before the capacitor. check those solders and components for proper values and use resistivity to check continuity. Note: You could also use pink noise, or a tone track, if you know the tone you're working with should propagate through the "side" of the crossover you're testing. Best luck. Post how it goes for you....
  4. Well that was [Thank God] easier than I'd imagined... One loose connector (on the ground) trips the whole protection circuit. It works now.... I'll post pictures when I take some.
  5. I have a amp by Crest: "Professional Power Amplifier", Model 4001. I have schematics, but have never troubleshot an amp before. Is there anyone on here willing to offer guidance and/or advice as I make this attempt? Diagnostics: Right channel works, Left channel doesn't (constantly in "protect" mode). I can work through stuff systematically, but if either A) this is against forum policies to have another brand's amp on here or you'd all just prefer I buzz off/ not do this here, then I'll not put posts on here. I just figured someone out there with experience might be able to help... Stevo
  6. Booyah. Being artsy... So I tried bridging (shorting) that small capacitor. It did not solve the problem I began to work through the circuit with a VOM set on ACV. The signal stopped at this connection. As I was probing around the connection, I jumpered the component lead to the solder lump and spooked myself when I suddenly got sound out of the horns... I added a healthy amount of solder to the lead/solder connection, but it didn't solve the problem (no picture, sorry). I went probing around again, and jumpered the solder to the board during the testing - the joint had come off the board. So I removed as much solder from the connection as I could and scratched a through the insulation on the PCB.... No picture of that result either, but I fired it up, and man does it sound good. Of course, it's after midnight and I'm being quiet so as not to wake the rest of the house, but chalk one up to troubleshooting. Thanks for the help Colter. Next on the table I have a Crest Amp that I'll be troubleshooting; would there be people here who can help me through that, and is it appropriate to post about here? Stevo
  7. Thank you Colter; as long as I watch my levels it will be okay to jumper the KLIP circuit, since it's just a emergency protection limiter, correct? So just jumper (short) the small cap out of the circuit... will give it a try tonight. Thanks. Stevo
  8. First thing I found was this dismounted component. From my limited experience, it's a transformer, yes? The mounting (silicone) is done, but the piece itself is still attached. It appears to be on the LFcircuit anyway, so there should be no issue here... Then I found this connection which appeared to be a little bit long, and might have been touching the hanging component from earlier. I pared it back.. Here's an image of the board. Everything appears to be in order - no loose solders, and no obviously blown components. The other side. The jacks / fuses. Yes the fuses are intact, yes, they are the 20A fuses, yes I will be changing them to the recommended 1.5A and 3A fuses. The boards are messy and dirty, yes - I'd expect that after 25 years of wear. No obvious problems to my eyes, can anyone with more experience say anything about it? Stevo
  9. Howdy out there; first post here and a question: I just picked up a pair of Klipsch 3002's, and have scoured the forums already for information. The internal crossover in one of them is inoperable, the HF out is non-functioning. [Originally I thought the horn driver was bad and have a replacement for it, but on a hunch, I checked the drive PCB from the other housing in the broken one and the horn started working again. So obviously the HF channel on the distribution circuit is bad.] One friend suggested powering the speakers and tracing voltage along the PCB until I got a dead reading, and then presuming that component was bad. Is this a viable test method, or how else should I go about testing the board? Will replacement components be available, or should I just plan on buying a new control board? Pictures for the fun of it: The suspect panel with screws already removed The grille and front Bottom reinforcement added by the previous owner? Corner damage. If I have time, I'll reinforce these with rounded metal corners similar to those you find on the roadready boxes. I plan to follow the 15th post of this thread to help with the "restoration." (It's more of a function thing than a good looks thing; I just want it to work well first... We'll worry about looks later.) The idea is to go with a less expensive and portable system similar to JoeyDingo's Beer & BBQ system. I also have a "Crest 4001 Professional Power Amplifier" that I'll be troubleshooting soon, it has one channel out. Is this forum an appropriate place to discuss that? I have little to no experience troubleshooting sound system amplifiers. Thanks in advance, Stevo
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