dimanata2007
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Posts posted by dimanata2007
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22 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
I have the LX501 and no, you can't do that. There is one crossover setting and it applies to all speakers. 50, 80, 100, 150 and 200Hz. There are eq settings that can be applied to each speaker individually. 7 band I think.
Also if you set the front main speakers to small all others can only be set to small.
I'm not sure but if you step up to the LX701 or higher they may have that capability.
Thanks a lot. The LX501 is already above my budget and LX701 at least $200-300 more, so I guess Pioneer is off my list...
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13 hours ago, 7heavenlyplaces said:
"...but refurbished part is scaring me a bit..."
As well it should!
Shipping costs to return refurb product which doesn't work right can represent a significant loss 😭! Just learned the hard way with A4L...double check B4 you buy the return costs because you may well have to eat them, or keep a bad product😬. New or known-to-be-good-used is the only way to go for me after that.
Ha, I though all returns are free.
That's why I like to buy locally and new: 30-90 days return and I don't have to deal with shipping.
ok. I spent a few hrs yesterday researching a few newer Pioneer Elites LX302 and LX501 and found nothing on setting the crossover point. Based on e-manuals I've seen MCACC should set everything, but there is nothing about setting it manually.Can one one clear that for me? Can set XO to 40/60/80/120 or something like that manually for each speaker or each pair of speakers manually?
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13 hours ago, The History Kid said:
Buy from a reputable refurb dealer, like A4L. Few if any bad experiences with them, and the warranty is a manufacturer's warranty, not one through a third party.
Many of us buy gear that is used without any warranty. Refurb is just gravy.
Well, yes. Unfortunately I know a few ppl that had issues with refurb stuff. I don't know where they bought their equipment, and I'm not saying anything bad about A4L, but dealing with returns, exchanges and customer service even if everything would go smooth is not something that I want to deal with.
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I'm looking for a new Atmos ready receiver as well, but so far every model in my price range (I prefer to stay with Pioneer and spend $450 top) that I like more or less has 75-80W per channel rating. My current Pioneer VSX-819 is rated at 110 Watt - 8 Ohm - at 1 kHz - THD 0.05% - 5 channels (surround).
I'm aware that this receiver puts out no more than 65-70W in real world and Ideally I want something with 140w per channel, so it would give me 90-100W. Another "must have" is an ability to set the crossover point for each pair of speakers separately. Something like Denon AVR S730H would fit the bill, but it's only 75W rated...
There are refurbished Denon x2300 ans x2400, but refurbished part is scaring me a bit...
Any recommendations?
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I bought a very dusty pair of speakers once too and used armor all to soften and then wipe all the dust and filth. Actually I use soft microfiber cloth dusted with armor all original to clean my cabinets and drivers and then wipe the residue with another dry microfiber cloth.
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Thanks guys.
The RS-7 look intimidatingly big, but the difference is definitely noticeable.
My SS-1 in pristine shape and I'm hoping to get at least $150 for them, I've seen SS-.5 going for $100+, so $150 for the SS-1 is more than reasonable price imo.
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Just a little update: as a present I got a pair of used RS-7 (damn they are HUGE!!!
) and they sure sound bigger and fuller vs my SS-1.
So far I decided to keep my crossover point at 80.
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On 12/27/2017 at 3:59 PM, Niterox said:
I am running 2 RB-61s, an RC-62 and an R-112SW with a Yamaha RX-V683. I used the speaker setup wizard in the Yamaha and then tweaked the base down in the sub because it was just too much. When we watch movies it is hard to hear spoken words clearly, which is frustrating.
Can anyone please give me some suggestions on improving this?
What frequency have you crossed your speakers at? Do you know if your Yamaha would let you to cross fronts and surrounds and run center uncrossed?
I'm running RF-82ll and RC-62ll as Large, uncrossed and one of the reasons I'm doing it cuz the dialog sounds fuller and more realistic that way. After running MCACC I left fronts and sub as is, center boosted to +1 and surrounds boosted to +1 and +2.
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We've watched the new XXX yesterday... What a waste of time... The first XXX was ok, the second one was bad, but the 3rd one is... pure s..t....
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IMO the back recliner is way too close to the rear surround speakers and your surround area is too compact to deliver the best possible effect. Move your side surround speakers closer to the center of the room (put the left one between your "Chicago" picture and the side window and the right one in front of the opening to the kitchen?) like on the " old picture", then move the side couch and recliner forward and put your back surrounds right in the corners under angle, facing the center of the room. It will expand the surround sound area and put you in much better listening spot. I have a similarly shaped room with one side sofa and smaller recliner on the back and moving the reclined and sofa forward dramatically improved the sound stage and surround effects.
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On 4/22/2017 at 0:25 PM, IbizaFlame said:
Your current AVR is only rated at 250 Watts total power, it's a long cry from the 550 necessary to be 5x110.
It takes 2x the wattage for a 3 dB gain, so if you really are getting 110 WPC (which is impossible), you'd need 220 to hear a difference. An AVR will not provide this.
What brands (more or less common and affordable) are the most honest abotu WPC? I've heard Elite and Harman and the rest are not.
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On 4/22/2017 at 9:49 AM, willland said:
Maybe something with the "unlimited" headroom as your Luxman R-117?
If you like the sound of your Pioneer, but want more headroom, then maybe consider the lowest Pioneer model that has either stereo or multichannel preouts and add one of these.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/169986-power-amps/
Bill
Paired with a set of Chrorus ll the 117 sounded great, but unfortunately had only 2 channels and no HDMIs.
A good 5 channel AMP cost as much as a very good AVR- at this moment this option is not on the list.
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Just now, IbizaFlame said:
Not unless you want to spend more scratch for a quad driver center...
The RP-250c is 2x 5.25" drivers, 60 - 25000 Hz and 125 Watt vs the RF-62ll 2x 6.25" drivers, 57 - 24000 Hz and 150 Watt.
Would the RC's larger drivers and a bit lower frequency response be an advantage?
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I have a RC-62ll for a a few years now and like it very much. It's a very capable center channel, I'm running mine uncrossed (no XO, imo my HT sounds more realistic that way) and absolutely love the sound. I haven't heard the PR-250 or 440, but I wouldn't switch to PR just because I don't like the PR 250/440 looks. Just recently I bought a pair of RF-82ll from a gentleman that upgraded all his HT speakers to PR series and according to him he feels no difference.
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^ I know that "on the label WPC" is just a marketing stunt and most avr's deliver 40-60% of of their paper WPC when all channels driven. My current avr rated at 2x110 WPC and 5x110 WPC per specification, but similar models were bench tested at 45 WPC and usually I don't go over 50-60% of the volume, but sometimes I go higher and cuz I want to avoid clipping, I want something with more WPC.
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Sorry for cutting in, I have a receiver related question too and couldn't find another fresh AVR thread to ask.
What do you think about Pioneer Elite SC-63? I know it's an old model released in 2012 and most of the reviews are very positive. The seller wants $400 and don't budge on the price, imo it's about $100 more than it worth. I understand that the SC-63 is a few steps above the Pioneer I have and not concerned about the sound quality and features, the only thing it's missing is Atmos capability, but even if I'm gonna go Atmos, it might take another 3-5 years, I more concerned about its reliability and price.
I also like an Elite VSX - 43, the seller wants only $200 (sims more than reasonable to me), but I'm not impressed by only 80w per channel rating.
Would you buy any of them or should I wait a bit and get a new Atmos ready lower grade, but 140W per channel Elite 980W that presently goes for $450?
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On 4/15/2017 at 2:59 PM, IbizaFlame said:
HDMI is going to handle HD audio formats, such as DTS-MA, Dolby True HD, and the like. It will also support the Atmos and DTS:X formats. Optical will only handle up to DTS:ES and Dolby EX. You won't get HD audio formats out of TOSLINK.
Based on your purchase of the 3060, half of the features would be unavailable if you use TOSLINK. Stick with HDMI.
+1. DTS-MA and True HD are bad a.s, you don't want to miss them.
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On 4/13/2017 at 2:03 PM, RoboKlipsch said:
The sub is so omnidirectional it matters little where it is pointed or firing, or the port. As long as neither is blocked, firing at the sofa actually is a huge plus. It reduces distortion from the driver itself by abosrbing mechanical frequencies. Try it!
That couch is my wife's throne and she didn't like when the sub was firing directly into the side of the couch- she can some vibration with is gone when the sub turned diagonally or away from the couch, so at least for now it stays as is.
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My sub has an easy to reach and turn gain knob and I decided that it's easier than to mess with the menu. I haven't touch the sub level since then. I thought that boosting the level in the AVR puts more load on AVR?
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Get the RC-62.
I had a few different smaller center speakers for a while and never complained about my center just because I never tried a bigger one. Then I got a RC-62 and immediately understood how much I was missing. The RC-62 and 62II have identical specs, so you wont hear any difference (correct me if I'm wrong).
My previous smaller center speakers were XO'd at 80Hz, but the RC set as Large and is not XO'd (I know that I'm in the minority here, imo it sounds much more realistic that way) and there is no way any smaller speaker could've give me the same ability and the sound.
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^ maybe. Due to the furniture placement I can put the sub only to the far right or far left corner of the room. Right now it's in the right corner 2' to the right off the right front speaker. I've tried to put the sub back on the floor and next to the wall and imo it sounds heavier and cleaner when sub is placed on diagonal and raised. The F-12 is a front firing rear ported sub,and if I place it next in the corner next to the wall it's firing into the side of the sofa and if I put on diagonal- it's firing diagonally through the room.
I watched Rouge one yesterday without touching my latest setting. The only thing I played with and was the sub gain, but in the end I left it at the same level.
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I played with my set up for a few hours yesterday using Guardians of the galaxy and Jack the giant slayer and tried to X-over everything at 120 and 80 (I couldn't go lower, cuz my surround limited at 60Hz) and then XO'd the center +surrounds at 80Hz and surrounds only at 80Hz. Well, according to my ears my set up sounds wider, more realistic and dramatic when the fronts and center are set to Large (no XO), the surrounds crossed at 80Hz and the sub set to Sub+. I left the fronts and center channel set per MCACC, boosted the surrounds +2 and set the sub gain at 4 with no change to the input signal.
I'm gonna keep my old SS-1 for now, but thinking about a better AVR that would let me to set XO for each channel separately.
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^ I had one Sony and one Yamaha AVRs and all my latest receivers were Pioneers, so I have no experience with Audyssey, but I know a few Pioneer Elite "tifosi" that had a lot of different receivers and they all swear by MCACC for its accuracy.
I'm boosting level only on surrounds, but keep the distance the same. I've checked the distance a few times and it was off a few ft, but when I set it up according to the measuring tape, it didn't sound as good as per MCACC setting.
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Thank a lot for such detailed response guys.
Yes, I know that sub should/will fill up frequencies below the X-cross point. According to the specs my BIC America F-12 12" sub goes down to 25Hz. I'm not an "addicted to bass" person and that is plenty low for me. My room is 13x16' and 8' sealing and the sub is positioned in the far right corner under an angle, about 3' away from the right front speaker (the left front is in the left corner), so the sub is firing on a diagonal. Also, the sub is raised about 9-10" off the floor, imo it removed an occasional boominess and now it sounds tighter and more defined. I'm not sure if this is an ideal location for the sub, but because of TV stand, couch and recliner placement there is no other place to put the sub.
I've tried to cross all speakers to 80Hz and it sure makes the sound more uniformed and seamless, but I'm not sure I like it that way and yes I know it's not normal :). Imo it works for some not loaded with sound effects movies, but when it comes to the action movies I prefer to set my fronts and center as Large and sub as Sub+ (the low frequencies send to the Large speakers and sub). The surrounds always stay Small. I like when sound effects are separated between the front and surround L and R channels (I even boosted surrounds 2dB), imo it sounds more realistic and that's why I'm looking to upgrade my surrounds, so I can cross them lower and hear more sounds coming from them vs the sub covering the frequencies that the surrounds can't play.
My AVR's doesn't have Front Align calibrating (I think it's reserved for 4 digit Pioneer models and Elite avrs), it runs ambient noise, speaker size and distance, and channel delay and channel level calibration only, but since my front and center are timber matched now and only surrounds are out of timber the effect shouldn't noticeable at all.
) and they sure sound bigger and fuller vs my SS-1.
Enough receiver for now?
in Home Theater
Posted
I have a similar dilemma. My current Pioneer with 250W power supply is 110W 5-channel rated
on Pioneer.com, but manual states 80W x 2-channel. Personally, I doubt it pushing more than 50W per channel in stereo mode. I want something with more power per channel. After researching options and specs I like Denon x2400 that has a 500W power supply and rated at 95W x 2-channel. They also say Denon is more accurate with numbers when it comes to wattage.