Quiet_Hollow
-
Posts
2477 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Quiet_Hollow
-
-
I can appreciate that.I just don't if I have the room for them.
It's the one mounted on a stock Canon GL1.I was going to ask you what mic you use for these videos
-
Videos of my system: (more to come soon)
and...
-
My "secret recipe" for extracting every drop out of the XR has been to simply run it with a sub. Alleviating the XR amps of bottom bass duty. The money I had left over from the purchase of the Panasonic bought an linear-phase EQ and a nice subwoofer amp. I run that with a high-sensitivity horn loaded subwoofer. Those coupled with the La Scala's and my hearing runs out of gas well before this system even gets close to it's limits while maintaining impeccable composure. Not that any of that max effort stuff significantly matters though, as I listen to it at -75 on the dial the majority of the time, but it sure comes in handy for movie night. ;-)
-
This is frequency dependent for mains and satellites and doesn't apply to signals higher than the baffle diffraction step of the cabinet. In the case of subwoofers, figuring in boundary-loading assumes the owner knows how to correctly place their equipment. It would be more conservative to stick with the lower value.The typical 90 dB @ 1 w @ 1M in an anechoic chamber is increased to about 93 dB by "room gain" from a typical listening position in a 3,000 cu. ft. room (see ahead),
Indoors, it's still 6 dB for every doubling. You can check that with a meter. Being off by 3 or more dB in calculation would be quite an issue when figuring out power demands or why things aren't as loud as they should be. [H]then reduced by 3 dB for every doubling of distance (INSIDE ... it would be 6 dB for every doubling of distance OUTSIDE).
-
LG consistently favors well in Consumer Reports, but just like any product, it's model specific with the top tiers usually performing better regardless of brand. If I could make a recommendation...Keep your Sharp and hold onto the cash or put it in a CD for a year because when OLED/QLED televisions hit the shelves, people are gonna dump anything less. It's that good. 3D and blu-ray are a fart-in-the-wind compared to this paradigm shift in viewing technology...has to be seen to be believed, just like high quality audio.
-
For less than $1000 you can get a builder to make a Bill Fitzmaurice Table Tuba shipped to your door. That, or I'm sure Mr. Hedden at Danley could hook you up with a CS30 for right around the high side of your budget. Both, IMHO, are some of the finest consumer level horn-loaded subwoofer product of the last decade. Either one will leave your jaw on the floor and a dollop in your pants.
-
Only if the the tower speakers and subwoofer signal arrive at your ears, in phase, across all frequencies with which they share...So in reality, not a chance.if a subwoofer is added to play with a pair of floorstanders that are rated to go as low as 37 db at 100db. would this sub add 3-6 dbs more to the already low going woofers of the towers
By neutering the signal going to the floorstanders and letting the sub become part of the big picture.how does a sub improve the bass if most of the frequencies that are in a music are reproducable by the floorstanders themselves too ????
The bandwidth of a typical sub, properly implemented, is much wider than that. More like 25-250 Hz. (even higher if you include induced harmonic content from certain woofer alignments)usually 50 to 90 hz....
So, how does a sub really help a tower speaker?
Mind you, this is a question that requires a book to fully describe, but I'll try to give it a go in a nutshell.
1. When crossed over properly, a sub prevents the two towers from fighting with one another acoustically over a pre-determined bandwidth.
2. When placed properly, boundary-loading significantly reduces the amount of power required to achieve desired low frequency SPL's at the listening position. Lower power equates to less induced harmonic content = better sound.
3. Low frequency content (less than 250 Hz) requires a unique combination of space, cabinetry, power, and / or signal processing that is not taken into account in your average sub-$10,000 tower speaker. There are of course exceptions, but I've never seen these special cases as affordable as even the most high-zoot subwoofer, if you know what I mean.
It's the nature of the beast. By virtue of design, a pair of standard tower speakers, played full-range, are acoustically poised to have low frequency issues (destructive interference between the cabs in the mid-bass region most audibly). As PWK said, put'em in a corner. That solves a lot of the issue if the room is big enough. Using a separate sub, or Bi-amping the towers in some instances can take care of the rest, typically sounding better due to the increased low frequency extension, in most cases. -
An insightful write-up...Thank you very much for posting! :-)
-
Disabling the video circuits potentially cleans up the signal a little bit, if you happen to be using the analog audio inputs, per the manual. I make exclusive use of fiber optic, so I wouldn't know any different in practice. I do know that there is some pretty fancy MHz-range signal traffic taking place along the amplifier boards, therefore shielding and managing EMI within the chassis is a big deal with these puppies.
-
The SA-BX500 is still in production, but is only sold in Europe. All the other XR's are out of production as of '08.was just going to ask if they still make any of these as they seem to be popular...or maybe just the flavor of the day
Wuzzer asked me how I liked the Panny. I gave him my thoughts. Next thing I know, there's re-newed interest on the forum.Oddly enough, the TI amplifier boards are still in production and used extensively by Panasonic in several of their recent HTIB product. I checked myself by dissecting one right at Best Buy in front of their Panasonic rep. It's a shame how many consumers will never know what they've got underneath the hood of their budget systems. Back in '01 my neighbor had an XR-10, and when we had house parties his system just sounded so friggin' good when cranked. I had an RX-V595 paired up with some NS-A2837's. They could go louder, but his system sounded a lot cleaner at über-levels. Had I known about the technology back then, I would've passed on the Yamaha a long time ago.
Check out what model of JBL he has and make sure he's not trying to play his vinyl through the blasted thing. Their current floor models have very low sensitivity (~88 dB SPL @ 1 watt IIRC). So with only 18 dB of gain available, the XR's shouldn't be expected to work miracles like driving large bass transients at goofy levels into thirsty speakers such as planars, ribbons, dipoles, or sealed cabinets where some gnarly monoblock would normally be loafing along.I think he has JBL speakers. He wants me to come over and help him set it up when he gets it. It will be interesting to hear what he has once we get the Panasonic installed.
-
The XR70 is fine, it's just the predecessor to the XR55/57.
The "wunderamp" line-up goes something like this:
SA-XR10
SA-XR24/45
SA-XR50/70
SA-XR55/57
SA-XR700
and finally..SA-BX500
-
They are two distinct models.what about the SA XR70???...I have seen that mentioned but also the XR700...typo or two separate models...wuzzzer...still diggin' yours???
Bill
-
Sure thing.My $40 pair of Sony MDR-AS40EX are my reference. I can hear anything on those buds, and It has been quite an escapade trying to put my home system on par with that. I'm close, but the sound from those buds is very intimate, as you've so described. One plus of the home system is that it can shake everyone's clothes and bend gravity at war volume. ;-)does that happen with you guys too.
-
+1 I'll second Russ's recommendation.Can I make a suggestion? Your housing situation is going to change a few times until you are out of the military and settled into a new life. Maybe it would be best to buy a pair of Heresys (easily boxed and moved) and keep those forever. When your life settles down, then it might be time to get a big pair of towers. I know I wouldn't want to move my main system around that much but a pair of Heresys and a small amp will make a great little set-up.
P.S. Just get the Klipsch, you'll like the efficiency.
-
Topology appears similar to the Crown DC-300A series. Nice piece of kit you got there.
-
Certifiable? How about a liability instead? That's a lot of cash tied up and sitting around if you're not listening to it often. I had four La Scalas at one time. After three years of collecting dust, selling the second pair freed up coin to get other cool gizmos like a subwoofer EQ and amplifier. To my chagrin, they would honestly still be collecting dust with no guaranteed value otherwise. I simply didn't have the space for them. Probably preaching to choir here, but hoarding a bunch of anything, hobby or not, just isn't smart money.
-
If you absolutely insist on modifying your vintage La Scalas, start with a pair of K-401's, then a pair of AL-3 networks. Those components will actually improve the resale value of the speakers along with improving the sound. Messing with the tweeter won't help. With all respect, there's nothing you can't do with EQ and a good working K77M that you can do with a Crites tweeter. For that matter, I recommend checking out Al Klappenberger's site for some structured perspective.
-
If you can hold out for for XR55/57 or XR700, they had the latest updates in the slim chassis design and the most features. The XR700 most notably with auto-eq if that's your bag. They all sound the same though, and you can't really go wrong as long as you score a unit from a good home.should i wait for an XR45 or higher, and skip the XR25? or does it not matter?
-
1
-
-
It's how they well they sound for the price you pay. Coupled with a pair of high-sensitivity speakers, the XR's let you truly hear everything. No amount of charts, numbers, or hearsay can describe the sound of one of these amps when deployed correctly. You can't help but laugh at the absurdity when you realize that you spent less for your amp than what some spend on cables or a bottle of fine Scotch, and it sounds that good. The raw data to pay attention to are that there was, and still is, significant positive discussion about these amps. There's a good reason for that.i am still not getting it. what's so great about the SA-RX series?
I'm certainly not saying that. The XR's aren't exactly feature intensive, so they may or may not get much notoriety in direct comparison to other high-zoot receivers. Park the signal juggling, up-converting, and decoding aside and the most important part to your ears is the amp inside. That's what the XR's have in spades.are you saying it's better than an integrated stereo amp from the like of H/K, Nad, Onkyo, etc.?
-
Welcome to the club ;-) You'll never look at a big 'ol monoblock or pile of tubes with the same enthusiasm as before. And wait until you listen to it for a year or so, then visit a "hi-fi" store. The last Audio Research demo I experienced had me fervently reaching for the ear plugs. Not bashing here, seriously...but do expect your ears to become used to that creamy-smooth delivery of the XR.Considering that virtually any of the SA-XR series can be purchased for less than $200 they are an amazing value for the money.
-
1
-
-
Won't make a bit of difference. I recommend leaving it the way it is.
-
" I see! " said the blind man. [H]If I didn't hear it myself, I wouldn't have believed it.
It's cool to hear that you've realized such an improvement, but....I'd
say that 8 is a good place to start. My corners are already filled up
almost half way up the wall with speakers so the 8 were perfect to
finish off the corners. If you have no speakers in the corners, I'd
probably buy 16 and be done with it. It's better to overdo it then take
some away if needed (sound is too dead or not lively enough).
I think you could've gotten by with a lot less if more consideration was given to your room and the dispersion characteristics of your speakers in the first place. Stuffing corner traps everywhere can be sort of counterintuitive when using horn speakers if you catch my drift. You've got to know what the problem is before you can determine the appropriate solution.
-
+1How about using Volts and Min Z. Then with a little math you can find most anything else you want.
No second guessing, and the warranty departments would be happy campers.
-
Perhaps only in the given situation. Fiber optic carries a multi-channel signal just fine.fiber optic is only limited to 2 channels.
It seems like somethings not setup right, because on page 35 of the UMC-1 owner's manual, it indicates the sound field processing you enjoy most can be applied to any of the digital inputs. Are you certain your signal sources (PS3 , etc.) are set to output "bitstream" over their fiber optic outputs and that the UMC-1 is configured to recognize it as a legitimate digital input per pages 29 & 34?The UMC-1 i have will not let me change the sound field types with an optical connection, it stays in stereo unless you use direct input. I like to choose different sound fields, mainly doly pllx,
http://www.emotiva.com/umc1/manual.pdf
If that's the case, lift the ground on the UMC-1 using a cheater plug. Then unplug and bypass that HDMI from cable box again. That'll spell relief. I also had bad hum problem with my subwoofer when I tried to use HDMI to feed audio to my receiver from the cable box, I feel your pain bro.... but you are right, at one point i did have a ground loop via that but i unplugged allt he cables the other day one at a time and the hum was still there.
Bass comparisons ?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
A phase-linear EQ goes a long way to bring order from chaos in the crossover region.