Jump to content

4tay

Regulars
  • Posts

    289
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 4tay

  1. "A DIY passive is just a few parts in a box--an attenuator. Adding more parts won't make the path cleaner."

    Agree totally. In fact, for those who are handy, and want to experience one with absolutely minimal expense, pick up a cheap aluminum mini-box, a couple of Radio Shack RCA jacks, a 10-15k metal film resistor, and a 10k pot. Wire the resistor between the center terminal of the input and output jacks; connect the pot's wiper (middle terminal) to the output jack, and the end to ground (viewed from the back, use the terminal on the left). Make one for each channel, or put both in the same box. You won't believe the sound that you get! Radio Shack's 10k pot with switch (271-215) used to be made by Alps and was extremely quiet (the switch can be easily removed). Less than 20 bucks for amazing sound- not too bad. If you are driving any of the Heritage speakers at reasonable volume levels, the passive attentuator will allow your amp to deliver more than enough power.

    I used to upgrade Jolida amps with ALPS pots. Small expense, noticable improvement. (Not just sound, but mechanically).

  2. I used a nitty gritty and home brew cleaning fluid. The difference in a real cleaning+ vacuuming is like lifting a towel from in front of the speakers. I cleaned up an old pressing of Al Hirt...and the clean LP sounded glorious compared to simply vacuuming---or not at all.

  3. If you didn't need a remote, the Merlin would be a lower cost option.

    (the Juicy Music products, unfortunately, are no longer made)

    The merlin is more my speed. There is only so much complexity and expense that can go into a passive preamp. Adding more circuitry (remote or whatever) doesn't make it sound better to me, and isn't worth over 2 times the price. I have had good luck with mccormack TLC, Creek and a few others that were not over a grand. A DIY passive is just a few parts in a box--an attenuator. Adding more parts won't make the path cleaner.

    As long as it can drive a sub. I prefer heresey's and smaller with a sub.

    I intend to build an attenuator box pre from diyhifisupply. Basic parts are $119. I can always upgrade the pot to a Penny & Giles.

  4. 200 gram is thicker. I cannot state that they are always better, it's all in the recording/pressing. 200 gram has been released in recent years, especially things like half speed masters and certain special edition records that are USUALLY (but not always) a top notch recording.

    Any specific music or lable you are looking at?

  5. Why the passive line stages fell out of popularity is beyond me.

    Mccormack would agree. But I have definately seen instances that an amp needs to be powered by an active pre. Some folks swear that certain amps just "lack" unless pushed.

    At the end of the day, an active pre-amp, along with things like clips and bananna plugs are another connection/potential for distortion.

    The only reason I can see for decline is: bells and whistles, and HT. Seems like the bulk of the buyers want remote control with all kinds of options. I have read more than a few posts referring to an EQ, another noise and distortion inducing device. "I can eq that out!" (By amplifying distortion?)

    Sometimes, less is more. Ok, most times less is more.

  6. Your original post talked about non-polarized, which I associated with electrolytics. You also said you ordered the BC kits, which from what I have noted uses the electrolytics. Sorry for the assumption. Rick

    It was a safe assumption. I ended up omnitting the NP and using sonicaps all the way except for my center channel...it's not worth a $30 cap over the cost of a $12 for the tweeter (5uf)

  7. This relates to my question in my other thread. So if I am reading this right, the large caps are NP electrolytics but are of a higher end brand? The main reason you do this is because of cost and also space?

    Electrolytic caps have been banned from my speakers. The caps are sonicaps...not NOT electrolytics. I purchased the sonicaps regardless of space or cost. I could have probably gotten similar results with dayton caps, which cost much less, (metallized poly, not electrolytic) But I am done replacing electrolytics with electrolytics.

    Any reason there are two caps to equal the 110uF? I am guessing that maybe the exact value is not available with just one?

    That's the only reason. Sonicap gen 1 do not have a 110uf, so it was necessary to combine 2. This happens occasionally. I like to match the cap value exactly. I could probably have found something .01 to.05 different, but that would alter the crossover point.

  8. A lot of this overlooks driver charactaristics. For example: Some tweeters are really poor below 10K while others are comfortable down to 7K. Some mids are magnificent to 5-6K while others can deal with 7-9K.

    It seems that there needs to be a crossover point that is respective of the FR and accuracy of the drivers in the enclosure, and not some pre-determined curve or frequency.

  9. I replaced all the caps in my Forte II's and it was like taking the speakers from behind a curtain for the 1st time. That was before I installed the ti diaphragms.

    Bob Crites has stated that the larger caps are very spendy to replace, and as a blocking cap, aren't a big change, unlike changing the tweeters cap. The one thing it does seem to do is help prevent image drift. I can tell you, ditching the electrolytic caps made a difference in that from the mids on up.

    Look at the caps in the palladium xover...and you can see what Klipsch's opinion is of high end component use...(they didn't skimp)

  10. Here is my personal Hi-Fi disaster: I purchased my first lp back in the 60's. I continued to collect lp's through the 70's and early 80's. I had amassed a collection of original Beatles, Stones, Led Zep, Pink Floyd, etc. Not re-releases but the first pressings. Then along came the CD in the mid 80's, promising to be the "Savior" of the music. I jumped on board with both feet! After a few years, my CD collection was growing nicely. When it was time to move one year later, I looked at all those old lp's (500 to 600), and decided there was no reason to pack up those relics.

    25 years later, you can find me lurking at thrift stores and flea markets looking for the very same "relics"!

    What??? you mean you believed them when they said "Perfect sound forever" and Klipsch had to add "Digital ready" to the speaker displays in stores?

    I used to haunt Amoeba's in Berkley, Ca. My last LP was "Shahrazade" and half speed masters of Floyd and Mannhiem Steamroller/Fresh Aire series.

    Vinyl horror: I know a fellow that had an original (nice copy too) 45 of Elvis/Blue Moon of Kentucky from his first lable. His mom ended up selling it (circa 1980) at a yard sale for probably .50 cents. I haven't dared look at it's value now.

  11. The only complaint I have is that they do not have a walnut finish.

    I did just order new caps so I figure this will be all that is needed for now until the tweets go then maybe some titanium ones. But all in all I am very impressed.

    duder

    The caps and tweets make a *H U G E* difference. Just the caps alone were night and day...

    Have you considered veneering the speakers? You can have any exotic finish you can think of.

  12. 4tay: You will of course have to agree that none of your assertions carry any weight (other than in your mind) until the stock crossovers and caps have been measured and found to be deficient for their purposes. If indeed the stock parts are measured and found deficient, as in improper levels of distortion or undesired crossovers frequencies and slopes, then we have something.

    It's not a question of faulty...it's a question of inferior. It's like saying a stock mustang GT isn't improved when a Shelby GT 500 package is added. The stock caps are indeed, junk. They have a MEASURABLY high ESR, and can be more improved by a $2.68 cap than any given variety of electronic front ends. So, we do indeed have something. Never mind that I have modded them and gotten results. We are talking measurable here, not some kind of snake oil that few can hear.

  13. Klipsch forte (I) were made in that era that a lot of individuals liked to critique the things that were irrelevant.

    1) 100 watt handling - that seems arbitary, because my forte 1's could handle most amps with no issue

    2) Treble: some early Klipsch were listed to roll off between 17.5-19Khz

    3) The forte's were listed flat to 32hz.

    In the right room, I found my forte (I) to be true full range speakers. Paired with the right gear there was not an issue with glare, horn shout or roll off. I felt that it was one of the few affordable speakers in the 1980's that didn't need a sub. The problem is back then, the poor quality of midfi electronics. Old timers used vinyl and tubes, and Klipsch were bliss. Younger folk used the Kenwood receiver and cheapo cd player of the day and complained of shout and harshness. In the vernacular of the layman, garbage in=garbage out. Klipsch got underrated and scorned from this bad experiment.

    Paired with something like the VMPS larger sub cossed at 30hz, it will help with program material that has low bass content, but it's not playing if there is nothing down there. Match made in Telarc heaven.

  14. . Android is more open.

    This is a HUGE point for me, not to mention choice of provider. I don't need to be a porn mavin to appreciate the fact that big brother isn't dictating content. I am my own consenting adult, and don't need some company limiting my options. IMO, it's no different that having the choice of R or adult pay per view. Don't want to see it? Don't buy it. But never, ever tell me, in this country that I can't have a choice if I want it.

    Remember the 1984 macintosh commercial? Apple has decided to be like the big brother they railed against back then with the Iphone.

  15. Speaking of parties and beer:

    I

    There is a recurring nightmare I have had since the events I have witnessed. It involves well meaning, but drunk or clueless friends ruinining my stuff for me. I can remember in the 80's when people worried about blowing speakers because they thought speakers could be overpowered by an amp. This was a repeated worry for potential Klipsch buys. "100 watts??? that's all??" When in reality, it was the amp clipping, popping or shutting down that was the problem. UNDER power.

×
×
  • Create New...