SilverFog

quote: Originally posted by The_Shark: Sounds like a dirty connector ... First I'd try some contact cleaner and clean both the jack and the plug. Hey, The_Shark -- no problem cleaning plugs, but...how the hell do you clean the JACK? I notice that if my plugs move slightly in the sound-card jacks, I get a lot of static/popping (dirty connection) -- I'd like to clean the jacks, but what fits up in those F-plug jacks? Even better question: how do you clean the contacts on the inside of a DIN jack? Squirrel-sized Q-Tips? This message has been edited by SilverFog on 08-30-2001 at 01:40 AM

Ah, finally -- a review on the ADS-2000 that addresses the concerns of a 4-speaker system user that wants a 5.1 signal down-mixed to 4.0* channels, so they're not wasting 1.1 channels (centre and LFE): http://www.3dsoundsurge.com/reviews/ADS-2000/ADS2000.html For anyone that is confused, the ProMedia 4.1 system takes 4.0 channels as input, and siphons the low-frequencies off the 4.0 channels (fronts only? I am not sure) sending the low-frequencies only to the sub, and everything else to the satellites. From a 5.1 signal, you want the centre-channel spread across the front channels, and the 0.1 (LFE/subwoofer) spread into the rest, for (hopefully) your amp or pre-amp to pull off for the subwoofer only. Maybe this was for my benefit only, but thanks to the above article, I will be placing an order for a MidiLand ACS-2000 or Klipsch AudioTornado, whichever manufacturer can promise me one the soonest.

quote: Originally posted by justin_tx_16: My friend has all AMD computers and they are good, but the Blue Screen of Death pops up just a little too much for me. I'd be questioning your friend's knowledgeability regarding building and configuring computers instead. No major hardware review sites have reported any compatibility or stability problems in the Athlon line (Tabbycatt dropped a few of the larger names.) The only hardware issues remotely related to the Athlon have been from a few SlotA and SocketA motherboards that weren't up to spec. When in doubt, just buy the best-reviewed motherboard at the time your CPU was released. Don't blame the CPU. The CPU is one of the last pieces of the system (software included) that is likely to be the cause of instability, as long as you are clocking it to spec. That Tweeters thing sounds too good to be true, but sweet if thats their policy. I can understand doing it with, say, audio systems, but they must take a hammering on depreciation when it comes to computer systems.

Yes, it will "work" with ANY speakers, but more importantly, will one be missing any discrete channels, that is -- center-channel and LFE? I've just e-mailed Klipsch (Amy!) and MidiLand (AudioTornado=ADS-2000) with the same question, but more specifically: Will the ADS-2000 (MidiLand) or AudioTornado (Klipsch) down-mix 5.1 to four discrete channels? That is, will it mix the center-channel into the fronts and the sub/LFE channel into all four? I am assuming the ADS-2000/AT have a total of six discrete channels (count channels, not physical plugs) coming out the back (LF,RF,RL,RR,CTR,SUB) as a traditional surround-decoder has? I would prefer the electronics to handle the mixing, instead of having to manually patch these all together between the decoder and amp. What I am looking for in hardware is what I've seen done in software -- that is, down-mixing 5.1 to 4.0. Can we have an owner of an AudioTornado or a ADS-2000 comment on this? They're probably not just trying to up their post-count and can put these questions to rest permanently. Even better if someone can snap a pic of the BACK of the decoder, or scan the diagram of the rear from the manual. Thanks. This message has been edited by SilverFog on 08-28-2001 at 03:02 PM

As for the heat, I would try and leave some amount of ventilation around it -- although you will notice that there is no venting or exterior heat-sink fins on the unit, so it may in fact not generate much heat (or, its already close enough to tolerances by NOT having these features that you may be pushing your luck) -- I know my amp gets warm enough at low-volumes that the cats like to sleep on it on cold days. As for placement of the sub versus sound quality, this will take some experimentation. I have found that the more open an area the sub is in, the less bass I seem to have, whereas when its under my desk and either against the wall or (even better) in the corner, I often have to set the subwoofer on its lowest setting, the bass is so much louder. The mathematics behind evaluating it measurably is beyond me, but I do know it has everything to do with the size and shape of the resonant cavity within which the source is placed. Low frequencies are less directional than higher, so you run far less risk of occluding the bass sounds (and hurting sound quality) by enclosure. Case in point -- a lot of high-end car systems have the subwoofer in a separate enclosed air-space (the trunk, or in the spare-tire well) and do not sound that much different when the sub is placed in the same air-space as the listener. Experiment with placement re: sound quality, but the ambient temperature tolerances of the amp is best answered by a tech. I'd leave it SOME openings for flow, just to be safe, unless you plan on never driving the thing hard.

quote: Originally posted by Sexgirlpatrol: ...in surround sound and doing the test my right and left fronts pass, but my rear left and rear right comes out ofthe same speaker, only one of them, depending which is plugged into the right rear port. Hey, SGP -- very strange indeed. To rule out sound-card or amp, try swapping the inputs and see how it changes. If it now happens that the problem shifts to the front-channel, I'd investigate the sound-card. If it is no different, I'd blame the Klipsch amp or pre-amp...more likely the pre-amp, since you CAN get audio out of either rear speaker if you swap the wiring that exits the amp/sub correct? Also...as for sound-levels, I've had high-end audio for some time and have never encounted a situation where speakers needed to be "broken in". Unless these Klipsch speakers are magic, or use some mysterious materials I'd say that some other factor must have changed in your listening environment. (btw, love your handle -- been a while since I've seen that KITH skit)

I have developed it as well, but have determined it is the connection of the F plugs into my SBLive! card. In your case, does the popping change/happen when you jiggle or rotate the plugs where they enter your soundcard's outputs? Have also noticed that the F plugs that go into the backs of each speaker are prone to this (oxidization perhaps?) -- and am having my stereo guy replace them with either banana plugs or crimps. Awesome speakers, but small, annoying, bad technical design in this regard. Anyone comment on what/how one might go after oxidization on the INSIDE of the female plugs on my sound-card, if cleaning my male F-plug ends doesn't help? quote: Originally posted by JMAcuff: I just upgraded to the new CP-1 Control Pod and no matter what type of Audio I listen to all 4 speakers have very distinct Popping. I have verified that all of the speaker connections are secure including to the SBLive soundcard. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.