nyt
-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by nyt
-
-
Peter,
I don't know if this will help you that much, but here is a video going from volt meter to spl meter at my LP, which is 15' from the mouth of each sub.
-
1
-
-
Crossing at 40hz is a waste, bump that shit up. It will be way more efficient / more headroom down low than your khorns.
I just decomissioned all my klipsch speakers, new pics in my sig link, crazy how much more efficient, and working great with the THTs =]
-
1
-
-
looks good, youre gettin there!
-
1
-
-
-
..... no
I'll be keeping the KSB 3.1 as my rears since space is limited. I MAY eventually replace my surrounds, but I see no reason to at the moment. I can't wait to get this stuff =]
Interestingly enough, the KSB 3.1's are the first klipsch's I ever owned. I bought them a good 15 years ago when I still lived with the folks =]
Should I start my stopwatch now to see how long you can hold out from upgrading?
-
1
-
-
Nah, I still have my SS-1 surrounds and my KSB 3.1's as rears =]
speaking of builds, JBL is building my new fronts and center channel! =]
I'm gonna have to find something to do with my RF83s/RF64 as they're getting replaced by 4722N's and a 3677 =]
I'd love to hear the 4722N. I've always felt like the CornScala (or more like a CornJub) is like a clone of the 4722N. It must rock! On the other hand, you will be leaving the Klipsch fold...
-
1
-
-
nice, I can't wait to see the pics of these all together. Bondo works great for speaker enclosures if you're painting them =]
nyt, what type of filler did you use? Would drywall mud work?
it will shrink, best to use bondo. or even wood filler =]
I ended up using bondo. It was the first time I ever used it. That stuff is awesome! There was a slight learning curve in the mix ammount vs dry time, but once I got that down it went great. If you close your eyes and run your hand across the side that I put all the screws in, you can't feel even the slightest variation in the surface at the screw holes. It feels like a solid piece of undrilled wood.
-
1
-
-
seriously. pics! =] it's nice to see how builds progress.
speaking of builds, JBL is building my new fronts and center channel! =]
I'm gonna have to find something to do with my RF83s/RF64 as they're getting replaced by 4722N's and a 3677 =]
-
1
-
-
I didn't bother with the angle, but keep in mind the plans were originally for the tempest / dayton DVC, which has a taller gasket. You can see the space here. I also came a bit closer to my t-nuts.
and another pic showing the dvc drivers
-
1
-
-
there was only an overhang on panels 1/2 in my plans
-
1
-
-
nyt, what type of filler did you use? Would drywall mud work?
it will shrink, best to use bondo. or even wood filler =]
-
The plans say you can have one access hole,or one on each side to make woofer installation easier. I'll stick with one then.
Did you use any nails on the second side? It looks very smooth on the pictures.
Yep, I just filled that side better. I didn't feel like messing with filler and sanding and stuff around the gap for the panel and all the screws, so the side by the panel is a little ugly. It's hidden so I was like screw it =] I used a bunch of filler on the rest of it and sanded it smooth before painting. This is after the first coat, pre sanding.
-
There is only an access panel on one side. It's not necessary to have one on each. I didn't have any problems installing the driver with access from only one side. I used hex bolts.
As for the number of panels per sessions, The only time I had to stop due to glue drying was on the lip for the access panel to make sure the glue set flat and smooth.
Basically, I put the glue down, set the piece, clamped it in place, then used a ton of nails to hold it in place. Once the nails were in, the clamps came off.
It's tricky clamping pieces in place with the glue making them slide around and creating a mess, but that's basically the fastest way to go. It was tougher since I used 30" panels. You'll need a lot of clamps =]
Yeah, I rushed the finish on these like crazy. That side isn't visible so I didn't really care. The filler contracted more than I thought it would on the side there. I gave some spots a second coat but didnt bother with the other side. I just wanted my subs inside
The visible sides look great though =] The flash also brings out all the imperfections like 10x what you see in person. Are those brad nails showing on the outer edges?(okay for the hammer and nails!)
Looking at your pictures, it looks as if you didn't use any fasteners on the second side at all. Is that right?
Also, how was getting the driver installed with only one access hole? Not too bad?
How mant panels do you guys installin one session? Only one until it sets? or more as long as the clamps of the previous work don't get in the way?
-
filler will show up a different color most of the time when stained.
-
You're going to need three 4x8 to do 30" if you do it with no mistakes. I ended up cutting 8 sheets to build 2, but I have a few mistakes. stuff happens when the only time you have to build speakers starts after midnight
. you will need a lot more 5x5 to build that since each 36" side is gonna leave you with a lot of unusable scrap. 2-3 of the standard caulk gun sized PL Premium should do the trick.The reason PL is used is due to the way it dries and expands to seal cracks, instead of shrinkig. Its also polyurethane, it will not degrade as much over time.
Also, there are lots of long cuts on this, they will not line up exactly perfect, and due to the size there may be some warping as well. PL fills these gaps very easily.
Thats why wood glue isn't used here.
And a bit of advice about PL, don't smooth it out with your finger on the outer edges where it squeezes out. You can let those dry then just peel them off by hand or with a razor really easy. Insie its fine to smooth it, just don't do it anywhere you want to paint or finish. Also, get some nitrile or latex gloves for working with it. It gets everywhere and doesn't wash off hands so easy.
Using a biscuit joiner will prove troublesome for you once you get to laying down the inner pieces. If you do use a biscuit joiner, your build will be slower, since you will have to wait for the glue to fully dry and hold the pieces in place before you can move on.
Does anyone have cut sheets for a 30-inch? I have to work out if it's better to get 4x8 or 5x5 for this build (it could even be a combination!).
How much glue do I need to buy?
I'd like to use cookies to hold the parts in place while the glue dries, instead of nails or screws. I'd likely sand the walls prior to assembly and might stain the baltic birch to match my walnut oil Klipsch speakers. So there would be no screws or nails showing on the outside. No problem with that? (I have actually yet to read through the whole plan; it's not light reading and hard for me to follow.)
-
I'm going to build one of the Tuba 18's and won't be pushing it very hard in 2 ch., I was just curious. I've got an IB in my HT that I'm very pleased with. Do you set your meter on DC?
Nope. It's AC.
-
Also something of note: Looking at the measured specs, it shows it supplying up to 44 volts, the THT with the dayton woofer in most home theaters will never even demand more than 30 volts during the most bass heavy movies.
I've been doing some reading at the BF website and people are always referring to limiting and or checking voltage in reference to protecting the drivers. I don't see how it's checked. Do you just parallel a volt meter to the speaker wire? AC or DC?
Most people don't even bother. easy way is to just put a volt meter on the terminals and see what it's doing.
I have two of them, with both receiving ~15v max, 5m from each, I was hitting 125db.
figure one of them would be hitting about 120db at the same location, from 15v at 5 meters, in a completely open room to 1200sqft.
hitting xmax will only be a problem around 22hz due to the horn, and I believe the limit was around 28v.
It's not something you need to be terribly worried about. I've beaten the piss out of these things and they just shrug it off.
-
Yeah, I rushed the finish on these like crazy. That side isn't visible so I didn't really care. The filler contracted more than I thought it would on the side there. I gave some spots a second coat but didnt bother with the other side. I just wanted my subs inside
The visible sides look great though =] The flash also brings out all the imperfections like 10x what you see in person. Are those brad nails showing on the outer edges?(okay for the hammer and nails!)
-
Most people use some kind of self tapping screw it seems, since its just a lot easier.
Businses cards work really good to line up the panels with.
I ended up painting over the screws I used, let me see if I can get a pic for you.
I was going to stain them originally, but ended up painting black since the stain I had wasn't penetrating good, and I had black paint handy.
Not the greatest finish work, but its in a dark theater and the panel faces a wall / speaker so its not visible.
-
Buy the 50 pack of T nuts and bolts, you will need them for the woofer mounting and the access panel, using self tappers may work OK but if you need to get to the driver for any reason the self tappers will strip out rather quickly making nothing but a headache with noisy leaks robbing you of performance from your new build.
yeah, gotta be real careful with the self tappers not to overtighten. I used nice long ones and got a good bite without stripping any of em.
I really just didnt feel like drilling out holes for that many tnuts, especially since i built two at once, and then having to worry about getting a good gasket seal around the hole as well.
-
The plunge cut is fairly easy. I'm by no means a woodworker and I didn't run into any issues building the enclosures.
For the access panel, I ended up using self tapping metal screws =] I didnt feel like pre-drilling the holes, and using wood scews would have split the edges.
http://countercultured.net/pics/ht/tht/build37.jpg
-
The access panel is cut out of one of the sides of the THT. Try to make the cuts as clean as possible, and finish them with a jigsaw. The panel is cut out of the 36x36" side, and the cleaner you make the cut, the cleaner your access panel will be, since the piece being cut out is used as the panel as well. The bracing for it is one of the last steps in the plans iirc, but cutting it out is early on.
-
lots of people use the dayton 240 which you can get from PE.
I went with something with a bit more headroom and picked up an elemental designs lt500.
-
You can get posts or a panel. I went the panel route, doesn't matter either way.
You also need to get some speaker gasket tape for the access panel.
260-542 Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 1/2" x 50 ft. Roll
260-309 Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Rectangle
I angled mine into the corners. You don't have to go a full 18" from the wall, some say it sounds best there, see what works for you.
Leave it up against one wall, and face it at the other, or aim it at the corner.
. you will need a lot more 5x5 to build that since each 36" side is gonna leave you with a lot of unusable scrap. 2-3 of the standard caulk gun sized PL Premium should do the trick.
WHO HAS THE MOST BASS???????
in Home Theater
Posted
Oh hi.