Wunsung
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Posts posted by Wunsung
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I've found a pair of 1984 La Scalas for sale in my area. The crossovers and caps appear to be original, so I assume they're going to leave much to be desired. (If I'm correct, these should have the AL crossovers, right?, which everyone says should be replaced with A's or AA's.) Anyway, aside from poor performance from the crossovers, what should my 60 year-old ears be on the lookout for? I have an audio test CD with tones at various Hz and sweeps and stuff. I expect I should be able to identify any problems with the drivers. Anything else to look for? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi Drum365,
Welcome to the forum. A test CD is a great tool for the playback of various audio tones; however, unless you have a reference, or baseline to use for a comparison, it won't be of much use during your audition of the La Scala's. Rather you should bring a few of your favorite CD's and make the determination that the sounds you hear are to your liking.
If you are familiar with the sound of Heritage loudspeakers, then you'll know what to listen for. On the other hand, if this is your first foray, be prepared to be blown away. I find the sound of Heritage loudspeakers unlike any other. Without getting all fluffy, music through them should be presented with transient snap and startling realism. Nothing, with the exception of a few electrostatics, is as fast as a Heritage loudspeaker, and this characteristic is what sets a Heritage loudspeaker apart from the rest. Everything should sound as natural and fully fleshed-out, warts and all, as if the performance is literally right in front of you.
I know this was a brief explanation, and I could wax on this subject for hours, but if the La Scala's are up to par, your favorite CD's should be rendered in such a way that you can't help but become addicted. I hope they work out for you. Let us know how you get on.
Marty
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Am I the only lone one?
Strangely enough, I only discovered the youtube within the last year, and have upgraded from my computer speakers to my Klipsch and power them with old school equipment.
Thought I would post here versus the computer forum as technically not using a computer sound system.
Please tell me that I am being silly and that there are others...drinking the kool-aid...
Hi BillyBob,
You are not alone. I too, visit the Tube, from time to time. It's a great source of entertainment; especially for classic videos and DIY instruction. Just one of the benefits of using a Mac Mini media server, although any computer can do it. Check out Pandora.com, as it is yet another invaluable source for music.
Cheers!
Marty
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I need almost 4 meters of interconnect cables that will let my LaScalas continue to sound good. What do you guys like?
I dont have a lot of $$ to spend on this....
Thanks.
In addition to Monoprice, give this place a look... http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=RCA%20Cables
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Planning to move my LaScalas to another room and will need longer wire. I've been using Speltz Anti-Cable, and I love it...but...is there something just as good but cheaper out there? Monoprice oxygen-free maybe? In the past, I've used lamp cord, Home Depot, WalMart extension (not bad), solid core silver (too bright), etc. I would love some recommendations!
Thanks!
I used KnuKonceptz (www.knukonceptz.com) 16-gauge Karma SS speaker cable to rewire my Belles, and also DIYed pairs of 12-gauge Karma SS to use as my main speaker cable. Nice cable, easy to work with, and very reasonably priced. Its as good as, or better than, most cable I've ever used in the past.
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Would it be possible to use a wireless Macbook laptop and wireless Khorns? I heard a laptop system last night (with a zillion songs on it) and a pair of hardwired B&O speakers. The convenience was mindboggling but he thought it might be possible to incorporate wireless Khorns instead. Just curious.
Lil' Brian,
Something like the Sonos ZP120 or ZP90 will allow what you're asking about. Basically, its a wireless amp that hooks directly up to your speakers, then plays the music that is stored on your lap-top, music server, etc. It's a pretty vague description, I know, but you can get the complete scoop at the Sonos website. It's a very cool set-up, and I was contemplating one myself, but I went pure digital instead.
Marty
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Hi Greg,
I wish I could post a pic, but my camera is so bad it wouldn't be of any help to you anyway. So, I will attempt to explain as best I can:
From the crossover to the top of the bass-bin, the wire has spade connectors on both ends, and is 22-inches long.
From the inside of the bass bin, the wire has a pair of ring (closed) connectors on one end and bare wire on the other end that is soldered to the woofer, and is 17-inches long.
Both the upper and lower wires are connected to a two row, 4-position (4-screw) terminal strip, affixed to the top (exterior) of the bass-bin..
I have taken these measurements from the factory wires on my Belle's. Hope this helps.
Happy New Year!
Marty
Wow, thank you so much Marty! That is exactly the information I was looking for. It's basically just like the La Scala, only the barrier strip is not visible, it's below the tophat in the riser area.
Greg
Glad I could help.
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Hi Greg,
I wish I could post a pic, but my camera is so bad it wouldn't be of any help to you anyway. So, I will attempt to explain as best I can:
From the crossover to the top of the bass-bin, the wire has spade connectors on both ends, and is 22-inches long.
From the inside of the bass bin, the wire has a pair of ring (closed) connectors on one end and bare wire on the other end that is soldered to the woofer, and is 17-inches long.
Both the upper and lower wires are connected to a two row, 4-position (4-screw) terminal strip, affixed to the top (exterior) of the bass-bin..
I have taken these measurements from the factory wires on my Belle's. Hope this helps.
Happy New Year!
Marty
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Jmcg,
Another great place to get good, inexpensive, cabling is KnuKonceptz http://www.knukonceptz.com/productmaster.cfm?category=speaker%20wire
No frills, tinned, OFC copper. Many gauges and styles to choose from. I highly recommend their "Karma SS" wire.
Marty
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Hi Nick,
That’s a good question, and one I have been curious about myself.
I used both Dupli-Color Truck Bed Coating and Professional Undercoat and Sound Eliminator on my Belles. I sprayed the Truck Bed Coating on the mid-horn, inside and out, and the Undercoat inside the bass bin. Did it make a difference? Not sure. I’d like to think that it did, but if I’m being honest, I could not hear any difference; however, I am happy with the results, as the finish—especially on the mid-horn—looks very good!
If it's any consolation, many speaker manufacturers use a bituminous coating inside their cabinets to thwart any unwanted resonances. One of the more notable companies to do so is Harbeth.
Marty
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Wunsung,
I have built a few sets of these for the Belles I've built. What happened to yours? Your Belles are missing the risers? What wood and finish are your Belles?
I still have the original risers; I just wanted a pair that are slightly, say 1/2" to 3/4", taller than the stock ones. My Belles are oiled walnut.
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Hi,
Just checking to see if there is any member who can make, or knows who can make, custom built risers for Heritage loudspeakers? Particularly for the Belle.
Sadly, the gentleman who was going to make me a set, and out of respect who will remain nameless, is no longer producing them. Those of us who received the emails know who I am talking about.
Please, let me (and others) know if this is something you can do. Thanks very much. I appreciate your feedback.
Marty
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Hi John,
I have been in the process of restoring my 1980 Belle's and was faced with a similiar situation, as the top of one speaker had a huge, black, water stain on it. At first I tried sanding, but the stain was too deep, and I did not want to remove more wood than was necessary. Next, I tried bleaching the stain out but, that too, proved to be futile. In the end I just ordered some walnut veneer from Rockler and completely recovered the top. Actually, I ended up doing both tops so they would match.
I used pressure sensitive veneer, and it went on like a dream. Simply cut slightly larger than the surface needing to be covered, orient the grain in the direction you want it, peel and stick. As long as the surface is clean and smooth you should have no problems. Trim the excess, stain (if so desired), and finish. It's that simple.
At first, I had some reservations about using pressure sensitive veneer, mainly about how good it would actually adhere, but my fears were quickly put to rest after doing the first top. The bond is tight and lasting, and seems just as good as any paper backed veneer with glue I have ever used. Best of all, no mess. It takes stain, finish, and oil, as good as any veneer I've used, too.
Anyway, there are many options and methods available to you, as some have already expressed. I just thought I'd share my own personal experience.
Regards,
Marty
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Hello,
Give p3america.com a try. They stock thousands of potentiometers, typically sourced from Asian distributors. They are out of San Diego and I think they might have what you are looking for. I believe the one you are looking for, P/N WXD3-12, is listed as P/N CM1000, but you might want to double check as I am not sure of the specific characteristics.
I have included a link to the P/N CM1000 webpage. I hope this helps. If this isn't it, let me know. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer... we'll figure it out.
Marty
http://www.p3america.com/multiturn_wirewound_potentiometers.htm
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Hi Sterling,
You're right, the Chorus's do get overlooked, and that's too bad, because they are wonderful sounding/looking loudspeakers. They were the direct replacements (correct me if I am wrong, please) for the venerable Cornwall loudspeaker and I herein is where the problem lies...
If there is one thing I have learned over the years, there is not a more passionate and loyal following than lovers of Klipsch loudspeakers; in particular Heritage Series loudspeakers, i.e. Klipschorn, Belle, La Scala, Cornwall, and Heresy. Like Harley-Davidson, McIntosh (audio), and apple pie, there is nothing more American than a Klipsch Heritage loudspeaker. Like them or not, they have stood the test of time, and that in itself speaks volumes.
So, when Klipsch decided to discontinue the Cornwall back in the day, not only did it send a ripple of horror throughout the audio community, to then hear that this new, almost normal looking, (by Klipsch standards) Chorus loudspeaker was to be its replacement, sent a seed of discontent, as well.
Whether or not the Chorus was intended to be included in the Heritage Series line-up is debatable, but certainly, upon hearing them, at least, they are a worthy addition to, if not a replacement for, any of the Heritage Series loudspeakers.
I have heard both Chorus I's and II's side by side, and except for a bit lower bass in the II's, they are virtually indistinguishable sounding from one another. I know this is lunacy, as they utilize opposing horn technologies, Tractrix versus Exponential but, to me, the similarities are far greater than the differences, and much too small to try and describe.
Marty -
Tpjrs,
I used both a Quicksilver Line Stage preamp and a pair of Horn Mono amplifiers to drive Cornwall III's a few years ago. The sound was nothing short of stunning. Warm, detailed, dynamic... all of the audiophile superlatives apply. Simply put, they were a perfect match. I see no reason why they wouldn't sound equally as good with La Scalas.
Of course, like some of the others have chimed in and said, there are numerous choices that will fit the bill. Ditto on the EL-84 recommendation... particularly in a Dynaco ST-35 which, interestingly enough, can be purchased in kit form again from Dynakitparts.com (no affiliation). Some of the sweetest 17.5 watts around.
The choices are virtually endless, so it comes down to budget, engineering (which tube/circuit you prefer), and availability. Good luck on your search, and let us know what you end up with.
Marty
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Hi Kevin,
The quietest tube preamp I know of is the Modwright SWL 9.0SE. Besides being quiet, it is a wonderful sounding pre, too boot. Good luck!
Marty
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I've used it a couple of times, in particular with mahogany veneer. Reason? mahogany is an "oily" wood and contact cement can sometimes not cure completely. It was from joewoodworker.com If you are doing the Belles, you really should look at a full sheet from joe as it will allow you to bookmatch the panels. He also ahs a number of excellent articles and "FAQ's" on veneering that would be of assistance to anyone venturing into this area.
OBTW..... the 3M pressure sensitive contact adhesive used on the PSA backed veneers from joe will stick, as in really stick, as in really, really, really....
But.... you will want the surface really, really smooth, with no oils, lacquer residue, etc. Before applying the PSA mahogany, I sanded the substrate plywood with #800 just to make absolutely sure.
I had considered getting full sheets of veneer and simply redoing the complete pair but, honestly, only the tops (and really only one, at that) needs doing. The rest of the speakers need only a refinishing. I had a look at the Joe Woodworker site; very informative, with great tutorials. Thanks for the information and link.
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Thank you for the information. I sincerely appreciate it. Indeed, there is a USA stamp on the upper edge of cabinet, just several inches from the maker's initials. I have yet to remove the woofer panel but, rest assured, I will within the coming days. I look forward to seeing what's in there.They are 1980's Belles (see: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/103886.aspx ). The initials are for the cabinet builder who assembled them in 1980. I had a list of the builders' initials, but was asked not to list them in the reference thread for privacy reasons. I can say that anything "RB" built is good!!! LOL!!
There should also be a USA stamp somewhere on the rear edge. If you "flip" them upside down, remove the riser, and take off the woofer access panel, you might find some pencilled dates, names, etc. There may also be a PRIDE sticker stapled inside with dates on all stages of construction, including the initials of each employee who worked on them.
Belles came in Walnut Lacquer, Walnut Oiled (early ones), Mahogany Lacquer (very rare), Medium Oak Lacquer (and oiled, but rare), Black Lacquer (somewhat rare), and Unfinished Oak (very rare).
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Thank you for the brief history on the Belle's. It is a small world, isn't it? I purchased them from a friend, who got them from a friend, who got them from you... Yes, the stain, too bad, as it is all the way through the veneer and will not even bleach out. I've decided the best thing to do is simply re-veneer the top; actually, both tops, just to keep things symmetrical. Apart from that, they are wonderful sounding speakers (as you very well know), and deserve the complete restoration I am in the process of giving them.A little history on that pair.
A father bought them new and left them to his sons. One son moved out of state to care for mother so bought out the other's half. Left speakers in basement and wife (now ex) put something on the top that created the round stain. Mom passes away, son wants to move back to Fl but has no interest in moving speakers. Yadda yadda, they are yours now. Don't know when the labels vanished in that time frame. -
That's good to know. I need to re-veneer the tops on my Belle's, and I see where Rockler woodworking supply has these 32" X 24" pressure sensitive veneer sheets, that would be perfect for doing the job. Thanks for your input.
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Hi,
Has anyone used pressure sensitive veneer in their Klipsch restoration projects? Just wondering what you thought of it as compared to paper-backed, or raw, veneer types. It seems simple enough; I'm just concerned about long-term adhesion. I appreciate your thoughts/comments. Thanks!
Marty -
From 1971 until 2005 they never show Birch Raw as being offered. These being 1980 Belles they definately fall into that catagory. There is no RB for raw birch it actually show BR for birch raw but not in a Belle.
Perhaps, the RB stamp doesn't have anything to do with the finish, at all, and means something else? I really don't know. I wish the labels were still on, as that would put it all to rest. Nevertheless, they are wonderful speakers, and after I give them a little TLC will be good as new.
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I was about to jump the gun and suggest Raw Birch until I finished reading the post...(I'm bad for that).
Are you both certain the Walnut is factory applied?
I suppose it's possible that someone could have applied walnut veneer over the raw birch at some point in their lifetime. It looks factory, to me, but I know there are some very talented woodworkers out there, and on the pages of this fourm, who could easily do the job.
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Hi,I just picked up a pair of Belle's from a good friend (Texas42) and need some help identifying a code that is stamped on the back (lower section, upper edge). Both speakers are stamped 3U584 and 3U585, respectively. However, in the middle of both speakers (same edge as the serial no.) the letters RB is stamped. It is this RB that has us curious.
Unfortunately, the rear labels have been torn off both speakers; so much of the information has been lost. Our first thought was that the RB meant raw birch; however, the speakers clearly have factory walnut veneer. Anyway, it's just something that has us curious. Hoping one of the experts can chime in and shed some light on this.
Thanks in advance for any information you care to share.
Marty
Opinions Please Audio Research
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Artarama,
I have heard both Cornwalls' and Chorus' driven by an Audio Research LS-7 preamp and Classic 60 Amp and, in my honest opinion, the sound did not come anywhere close to as refined and sweet sounding as a Scott 299D that had been reworked by NOS Valves. I'm not saying that Audio Research gear is bad sounding, mind, just that, for me, the Scott was better sounding by comparison.
Something else to consider about AR gear... replacement tubes purchased through AR are extremely expensive. Why they charge so much, I do not know, when similar, off the shelf and tested tubes, from various vendors, cost only a fraction of what AR charges.
As for build and reliability... build is superior to most, and reliability is about average. Again, I'd have to say that the old Scotts', Macs', and Fishers' seem to hold it together longer than a lot of AR gear of the same vintage, though much of that depends on the way the gear has been handled/treated throughout the years.
So, to answer your question directly... no, I do not think that getting the AR gear will be a significant upgrade from your current Scott. However, if your Scott has not passed through the hands of NOS Valves, you are certainly missing out on the single most beneficial upgrade on offer to you; one that will definitely breath new life into your Khorns and bring a huge smile to your face. JMHO. I'm sure others will chime in, but I hope this helps.
Marty