Wunsung

Artarama, I have heard both Cornwalls' and Chorus' driven by an Audio Research LS-7 preamp and Classic 60 Amp and, in my honest opinion, the sound did not come anywhere close to as refined and sweet sounding as a Scott 299D that had been reworked by NOS Valves. I'm not saying that Audio Research gear is bad sounding, mind, just that, for me, the Scott was better sounding by comparison. Something else to consider about AR gear... replacement tubes purchased through AR are extremely expensive. Why they charge so much, I do not know, when similar, off the shelf and tested tubes, from various vendors, cost only a fraction of what AR charges. As for build and reliability... build is superior to most, and reliability is about average. Again, I'd have to say that the old Scotts', Macs', and Fishers' seem to hold it together longer than a lot of AR gear of the same vintage, though much of that depends on the way the gear has been handled/treated throughout the years. So, to answer your question directly... no, I do not think that getting the AR gear will be a significant upgrade from your current Scott. However, if your Scott has not passed through the hands of NOS Valves, you are certainly missing out on the single most beneficial upgrade on offer to you; one that will definitely breath new life into your Khorns and bring a huge smile to your face. JMHO. I'm sure others will chime in, but I hope this helps. Marty

Hi Drum365, Welcome to the forum. A test CD is a great tool for the playback of various audio tones; however, unless you have a reference, or baseline to use for a comparison, it won't be of much use during your audition of the La Scala's. Rather you should bring a few of your favorite CD's and make the determination that the sounds you hear are to your liking. If you are familiar with the sound of Heritage loudspeakers, then you'll know what to listen for. On the other hand, if this is your first foray, be prepared to be blown away. I find the sound of Heritage loudspeakers unlike any other. Without getting all fluffy, music through them should be presented with transient snap and startling realism. Nothing, with the exception of a few electrostatics, is as fast as a Heritage loudspeaker, and this characteristic is what sets a Heritage loudspeaker apart from the rest. Everything should sound as natural and fully fleshed-out, warts and all, as if the performance is literally right in front of you. I know this was a brief explanation, and I could wax on this subject for hours, but if the La Scala's are up to par, your favorite CD's should be rendered in such a way that you can't help but become addicted. I hope they work out for you. Let us know how you get on. Marty

Hi BillyBob, You are not alone. I too, visit the Tube, from time to time. It's a great source of entertainment; especially for classic videos and DIY instruction. Just one of the benefits of using a Mac Mini media server, although any computer can do it. Check out Pandora.com, as it is yet another invaluable source for music. Cheers! Marty

In addition to Monoprice, give this place a look... http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=RCA%20Cables

I used KnuKonceptz (www.knukonceptz.com) 16-gauge Karma SS speaker cable to rewire my Belles, and also DIYed pairs of 12-gauge Karma SS to use as my main speaker cable. Nice cable, easy to work with, and very reasonably priced. Its as good as, or better than, most cable I've ever used in the past.

Lil' Brian, Something like the Sonos ZP120 or ZP90 will allow what you're asking about. Basically, its a wireless amp that hooks directly up to your speakers, then plays the music that is stored on your lap-top, music server, etc. It's a pretty vague description, I know, but you can get the complete scoop at the Sonos website. It's a very cool set-up, and I was contemplating one myself, but I went pure digital instead. Marty

Wow, thank you so much Marty! That is exactly the information I was looking for. It's basically just like the La Scala, only the barrier strip is not visible, it's below the tophat in the riser area. Greg Glad I could help.

Hi Greg, I wish I could post a pic, but my camera is so bad it wouldn't be of any help to you anyway. So, I will attempt to explain as best I can: From the crossover to the top of the bass-bin, the wire has spade connectors on both ends, and is 22-inches long. From the inside of the bass bin, the wire has a pair of ring (closed) connectors on one end and bare wire on the other end that is soldered to the woofer, and is 17-inches long. Both the upper and lower wires are connected to a two row, 4-position (4-screw) terminal strip, affixed to the top (exterior) of the bass-bin.. I have taken these measurements from the factory wires on my Belle's. Hope this helps. Happy New Year! Marty

Jmcg, Another great place to get good, inexpensive, cabling is KnuKonceptz http://www.knukonceptz.com/productmaster.cfm?category=speaker%20wire No frills, tinned, OFC copper. Many gauges and styles to choose from. I highly recommend their "Karma SS" wire. Marty

Hi Nick, That’s a good question, and one I have been curious about myself. I used both Dupli-Color Truck Bed Coating and Professional Undercoat and Sound Eliminator on my Belles. I sprayed the Truck Bed Coating on the mid-horn, inside and out, and the Undercoat inside the bass bin. Did it make a difference? Not sure. I’d like to think that it did, but if I’m being honest, I could not hear any difference; however, I am happy with the results, as the finish—especially on the mid-horn—looks very good! If it's any consolation, many speaker manufacturers use a bituminous coating inside their cabinets to thwart any unwanted resonances. One of the more notable companies to do so is Harbeth. Marty

I still have the original risers; I just wanted a pair that are slightly, say 1/2" to 3/4", taller than the stock ones. My Belles are oiled walnut.

Hi, Just checking to see if there is any member who can make, or knows who can make, custom built risers for Heritage loudspeakers? Particularly for the Belle. Sadly, the gentleman who was going to make me a set, and out of respect who will remain nameless, is no longer producing them. Those of us who received the emails know who I am talking about. Please, let me (and others) know if this is something you can do. Thanks very much. I appreciate your feedback. Marty

Hi John, I have been in the process of restoring my 1980 Belle's and was faced with a similiar situation, as the top of one speaker had a huge, black, water stain on it. At first I tried sanding, but the stain was too deep, and I did not want to remove more wood than was necessary. Next, I tried bleaching the stain out but, that too, proved to be futile. In the end I just ordered some walnut veneer from Rockler and completely recovered the top. Actually, I ended up doing both tops so they would match. I used pressure sensitive veneer, and it went on like a dream. Simply cut slightly larger than the surface needing to be covered, orient the grain in the direction you want it, peel and stick. As long as the surface is clean and smooth you should have no problems. Trim the excess, stain (if so desired), and finish. It's that simple. At first, I had some reservations about using pressure sensitive veneer, mainly about how good it would actually adhere, but my fears were quickly put to rest after doing the first top. The bond is tight and lasting, and seems just as good as any paper backed veneer with glue I have ever used. Best of all, no mess. It takes stain, finish, and oil, as good as any veneer I've used, too. Anyway, there are many options and methods available to you, as some have already expressed. I just thought I'd share my own personal experience. Regards, Marty

Hello, Give p3america.com a try. They stock thousands of potentiometers, typically sourced from Asian distributors. They are out of San Diego and I think they might have what you are looking for. I believe the one you are looking for, P/N WXD3-12, is listed as P/N CM1000, but you might want to double check as I am not sure of the specific characteristics. I have included a link to the P/N CM1000 webpage. I hope this helps. If this isn't it, let me know. I have a friend who is an electronics engineer... we'll figure it out. Marty http://www.p3america.com/multiturn_wirewound_potentiometers.htm

Hi Sterling, You're right, the Chorus's do get overlooked, and that's too bad, because they are wonderful sounding/looking loudspeakers. They were the direct replacements (correct me if I am wrong, please) for the venerable Cornwall loudspeaker and I herein is where the problem lies... If there is one thing I have learned over the years, there is not a more passionate and loyal following than lovers of Klipsch loudspeakers; in particular Heritage Series loudspeakers, i.e. Klipschorn, Belle, La Scala, Cornwall, and Heresy. Like Harley-Davidson, McIntosh (audio), and apple pie, there is nothing more American than a Klipsch Heritage loudspeaker. Like them or not, they have stood the test of time, and that in itself speaks volumes. So, when Klipsch decided to discontinue the Cornwall back in the day, not only did it send a ripple of horror throughout the audio community, to then hear that this new, almost normal looking, (by Klipsch standards) Chorus loudspeaker was to be its replacement, sent a seed of discontent, as well. Whether or not the Chorus was intended to be included in the Heritage Series line-up is debatable, but certainly, upon hearing them, at least, they are a worthy addition to, if not a replacement for, any of the Heritage Series loudspeakers. I have heard both Chorus I's and II's side by side, and except for a bit lower bass in the II's, they are virtually indistinguishable sounding from one another. I know this is lunacy, as they utilize opposing horn technologies, Tractrix versus Exponential but, to me, the similarities are far greater than the differences, and much too small to try and describe. Marty