edwardre
-
Posts
443 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by edwardre
-
-
@&%$#&%@
Proxy bidding is the same as long as no one else proxy bids. If even 2 folks proxy bid, the tendency is to jack the price up of the item prematurely as the proxies try to outbid each other whenever there are 2. Yes, if the reigning high bidder's proxy bid is more than the esnipe bidder's max, the proxy bidder will prevail. But that is the only situation the proxy bidder will prevail in.
Gotta go home now but tomorrow AM I will write the detials of the single Heresy and then you can decide whether you still want it or not. I got it late July for $103 & change, here's the listing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5710655924&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6
-
-
Ah...so sorry. At least it went to another member....(small consolation I know). I really didn't think I would get it. It was a total shock. Might I recommend esnipe (esnipe.com)....set it and forget it. Then it is truly up to whomever wants to pay the most rather than who has the fastest keyboard finger.
I have a single Heresy II just laying around now......
-
Sorry, been awhile since my last visit here.....
It was ME.
I have a 'family' setup in the front living room for the wife and kids to use rather than allow them access to the all vintage Klipschorns 'movie room' setup. Previously, the setup was Forte II's as mains, a single Heresy II as a center, and a pair of 'original' Heresy's as surrounds. A Klipsch KSW200 sub rounded out this rather pleasing little setup as well as a Proscan 50" rear projection TV. The sound was very nice and I had actually mentally finished with any further enhancements.
Based largely in part to the glowing accolades from members of this forum, I had been scoping out epay on occasion for an Academy center, maybe scanning once or twice a month for the past 4 months or so. My limit was about $300 and I had convinced myself that I would never preview an Academy since the going rate was easily a hundred or so beyond my reach. $400+ for a center in a backup surround setup was in my opinion, over the top. You can get a pair of Forte's for that, I've even seen Chorus' go for less.
Nonetheless, I check regularly. One Friday before leaving work for the weekend, I spy an Academy listed with the current bidding at something like $102, with something like a day and a half left. Knowing I wouldn't remember over the weekend to monitor it, I submitted my ESNIPE limit of $127.57 and totally forgot about it. Imagine my surprise when I came to work Monday to a 'Congratulations, you've won a bid' message. Yup my fellow forum members, $107 and some change. Shipping was a reasonable $40 or so, I got out the door for less than $150 total.
It came about a week and a half ago. Packaged rather poorly and due to the rather unflattering listing description, I though that I would have a major restoration project on my hands. WRONG. Despite what the listing said - dinged up - the speaker was actually cosmetically virtually perfect. There was an 1/8th inch (diameter) spot where it had some paint missing on the bottom of it, but other than that, I could not find another exterior blemish. Corners were perfect. No grille as described, but I would have removed it and replaced it with something that matched my Forte II's anyway. The biggest detractant listing-wise was the stated 'cone damage'. Described as a 'crack', it certainly was. Radially, on the right cone about 3/4ths of an inch from the outer rim, the plastic-type cone material had a roughly 4" crack. But no 'hole' as described in the listing. The listing also accuratly stated that all drivers were working. Sure enough, even the damaged cone driver was functionally in working order. To repair, I smeared a thin coating of aquarium sealer on the crack, waited 24 hrs for it to cure, and fired away.
I was completely unprepared for the results. The Heresy is no slouch. However, as far as center speaker duty is concerned, the Academy in that setup made an unbelievable UNBELIEVABLE improvement. Specifically, in the soundstage. It made the whole ensemble sound like a singular set. Timbre wise, it is THE definition of perfectly matched. All aspects of the sound - bass, mids and highs - were enhanced. The Forte's seemed to come alive. I can identify no difference between the repaired speaker and the 'good' one, and being at ear level, it's fairly easy to perform the old one speaker vs the other test. Also, the Academy is a heavy brute. Much more so than it appears. heavier than the Heresy's. Very, very solid.
Kind of funny too. The wife did not like the Heresy sitting atop the TV. I had it sitting upright rather than laying on it's side because either way it looked kind of funky, but at least upright the badge was correct and it seemed to sound a little better. When I replaced it with the Academy, I did so without the grille as there wasn't one and I didn't have the time to make one up, I was initially just testing. So it was there, 'naked', with one cone repaired with sealer for at least 3 days before the wife noticed. She all the sudden said 'hey, you changed the speaker, I like it. It looks much better than the other one which looked ridiculous standing up on top' (Yeah right, that's why it took you 3 days to notice) but I instead said 'I still have to make a matching grille for it'. To which she responded 'take your time, I kind of like that exposed look'. Huh. You just never know. Fact is that you cannot really see the aquarium sealer anyway unless you get up and scrutinize it closely, the crack was a single crack and when placed back into position, was virtually undetectable.
Bottom line is that I am now a member of the Klipsch Academy believer group. This is one fine center speaker and I give my highest recommendation for those on the fence to wait it out and get one if you have Forte's or Forte II based setups. The sound will absolutely make your jaw drop. Is this the only dedicated center speaker that Klipsch gave a 'name' to rather than a designation-type reference?
Very, very pleased....especially for $107.
-
So if the "C"s are flush and the "B"s are set back, wouldn't that mean that in order to recess a "C" to a "B", you would not only have to fabricate an additional 'plate' and collar, but the upper section plates as well? Or you would have to CUT the "C" top piece and 'bottom of the top section' piece (EGADs!!!) in order to have a recessed top that fits flush to the corner, right?
Curious as to how others addressed this. I think the Khorn looks better flush up and down, and so I didn;t think of this until now. Another thing is that any modification I perform needs to be completely reversable, so that I can return to bone stock if desired. I would think that cutting an inch or so off the upper section would devalue.......
-
No kidding. Dylan, WOW. Tom....I assume you are documenting your Belle efforts as thoroughly....?
I have nothing to add other than to wonder as follows. My '53 khorn was a c-type that I likewise converted to a B. However, there is a question in my mind as to whether the b-types were always set back by 5/8" or whether this occured sometime after '53. My '53 c-type was not set back at all but rather flush top to bottom, with just the grille assembly setback 3/8ths. I toyed with the idea of setting the top section back like a modern khorn, but when I had the plate and collar built and set in place, the unit looked much better flush (to me), so that's where I ended up securing it. Was wondering is modern c-types are flush - that is the top plate flush with the center plate - or not?
-
I have a Denon 1600 connected to a Denon 3802 (exact same unit as the AVR1082 - and a fine receiver it is). It too has the same 8 outputs (the 1600 that is). Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that the outputs are FL1, FR1, C, RR, RL & SW for surround outputs, with the FL2 and FR2 being additional outputs for auxillary/additional stereo out....like if you run a pair into another room or something.....not 'enhanced effects'. In other words, the same thing that comes out of FL1 comes out of FL2.
I don't think that the 1082 has FL1, FL2, FR1, FR2, C, RR, RL SW surround inputs but rather FL, FR, C, RR, RL, SL, SR, & SW. The SL and SR being 'surround' L & R - for side L & R placement, and the RR and RL being 'rear' L & R for rear or 'back' placement.
-
Should be somewhere in the Electro-voice lit, I don't have enough time to look, but most of the vintage stuff is there.
I will let you know how that driver sounds in a few days (in a Heresy).....I just 'won' one on epay last week.....$9!! Should be here in a day or so.
-
Watco here as well.....I could be wrong, but it seems a bit more 'refined' than straight BLO....not so 'mucky'?
And remember, steel anything on speakers should be a last resort only. Those little hairs are insidious......they WILL find their way to your VC.......
-
1954 Factory Custom Khorns Type A - front mains
1953 Khorns Type B - Rear Surrounds - rear surrounds
1974 Belle - front center
Matching Belle Clone - rear center
1990 Forte II's - front mains
1979 Heresys - rear surrounds
1986 Heresy II - front center
Klipsch KSW200 Sub
1983 Cornwalls - 2-channel tube
1982 Heresy's - garage
-
Tom....you're getting along fabulously!!! I really admire your gusto. Took me months to get my Belle going because I would come home from work, cut and fit a piece, then a couple of days later do another. Won't be long before you have a fleet.
I hear you on the Mahogany! My first '53 was mahogany. A "C" type. Didn't match my all walnut setup but I just could not bring myself to mar the original mahogany so I got a sheet of 1/4" walnut, cut pieces to match (sizewise) every spot that the mahogany showed, and then affixed it via iron on walnut edge veneer! I also converted it to a "B" type by fabricating a collar and another 'top of the bass-bin' piece. Now, if I ever want to return to the Mahogany, a couple of swipes from the iron, peel the edge veneer off and viola!! Meanwhile, the precious mahogany is being preserved in a sealed environment.
See attached!
-
I have often wondered about the disparity myself. I have 6 K500-5000's. Some of them look like the pic I posted, some look like the pic Bob posted, and some look different still, having 3 chokes. Wonder what the deal is?
-
I didn't read your 'hate H2's' post yet, I'll try and get to it. But what I can say is that I am using a Denon/Heresy combo and they really sound impressive. My setup is as follows....Forte 2 mains, Heresy surrounds, KSW200 sub, and a Heresy 2 for a center channel where most of the sound comes through anyway. The Denon receiver in this particular setup is an older 1701....hardly 'flagship'. I find that the sound is quite detailed and not overly bright.......a lot warmer than I had expected......
I also use a Denon 3802 with 1954 Khorns as mains, 1953 Khorns as rear surrounds, Belles for center front and rear and an SVS sub. The Yamaha I had prior to the Denon was not even in the same ballpark. The Denon is much more detailed and warm, like it is in the smaller heresy setup.
I agree with others, I do not think there is an issue with a Denon/Klipsch system, but I'll read your prior post and see if I'm missing the point (not uncommon).
-
Scotty, a K500-5000 looks like this.
Despite what the 'Dope From Hope' says about the K500-5000 being used up until about 1955, I have personally seen several later model Khorns with this network.
-
Hi Dean, I'm using an old Dynaco ST70 tube amp with Van Alstine mods. Dynaco PAS2 pre-amp and a very old Sansui CD player as kind of a test bench setup where I can sample different speaker combos. I guess it is all relative and like I've stressed, just the way my ears hear things. Certainly not meant to be anything but opinion.
The speakers I use normally with the ST70 setup are a pair of modified '83 Cornwalls. This for 2-channel listening.
I have one small HT setup in the living room with stock Forte II's as mains, stock Heresy (1's) as surrounds, and a stock Heresy 2 as the center coupled with a KSW200 sub and I have to admit, in this configuration the K55V's, K77's and whatever the Forte 2's and Heresy 2 has in them sound very good, not too sibilent. Very clear and detailed. This setup uses a Denon 1701 receiver which in my opinion has some problems decoding pro logic. But feed it a digital audio signal and it performs fine in DD5.1 mode.
-
Jon, I would be delighted to trade you. I sent you an email basically asking if you could take a picture of your 69 straight horn so that I can get you an exact match. I'm thinking that your 69 horn is a cast aluminum looking horn, about 1/4" thick. Should be a K400. Let me know please!!
-
Hi Bob, according to 'The Dope From Hope' Vol 12 #5, the K500-5000 was used up until 1955.
-
Watco - the 'natural' (clear) flavor......
-
At the risk of starting yet another range war.....in my opinion, if age 'degrades' the K77 so that it is outputting 3bd - 6db less, that would be a good thing. I would call that 'breaking in' or 'mellowing out' a tweeter that is in my opinion - stressing MY OPINION ONLY - a 'fresh' K77 is almost unlistenable. It is the shrillest tweeter I have ever laid ears upon. Well, that's not really true, I've heard far worse of course, but the point is that to my admittedly pedestrian hearing, that tweeter is way too harsh and is the leading cause for anti-horn or 'hornaphobes' to point at a horn speaker and say "see, I told you horn speakers are abrasive". It is of course all a matter of taste.
As an owner of a pair of 53 and a pair of 54 Khorns, as well as one who has tried pert near every Klipsch Heritage component iteration known to man, I have to agree with Gil. Unless you hear something blatantly wrong, leave it be. The shelves of my 'movie room' are packed full of K33's round and square mags, K55V&M's solder on's and push on's, K77's with round and square mags, networks galore. A's, AA's AB's, AK's, B's, B2's, B3's, E's,K500-5000's. Stephen's Trusonics and EV's, University's and Altecs. I have experimented with every combo imaginable to where my wife and daughter call it my 'sick obsession'. Through all of this one thing has become as crystal clear as a well oiled Khorn, nothing sounds better to me than the older vintage components. Seems like the newer the shriller. So much so that I have replaced the components in my '74 Belle and my '83 Cornwalls with older vintage parts.....they sound glorious, and by the way, they don't 'break down', they 'break in' with age.
In fact, if anyone wants to trade their old degraded components, I would be delighted to replace your outdated Stephen's Trusonic 103LX2's or Electro-voice 15WK's for brand new shiney K33's, your degraded old University SAHF's for brand new shiney K55V's, or your old wooden sectoral horns for brand new straight horns...pick your flavor...K400, K500, K600 or K700's, or your old dusty K500-5000 networks for any of the abovementioned networks......just send me a PM.
-
Colterphoto1...I'm using Stephens Trusonic 103LX2's. It is a 15" woofer made from the late 40's to late 50's. The LX2 designation identifies it to be used specifically for Klipsch horn loaded systems (4 ohm impedence). Klipsch offered the purchaser the option of this driver or the Electro-voice 15WK. Around the end of the 50's, early 60's timeframe, both these drivers became unavailable to Klipsch to use in their speaker systems. It was at this time that they switched LF drivers to the more familiar K33 line of drivers. The point being that from an engineering design standpoint, they are suppose to be interchangeable.
-
While I admit to not trying to build on the back porch in the dead of winter.....Tite-bond II was one of the glues I tried and IMHO only, Elmers Pro-bond worked much better for me. The Tite-Bond had a 'thinner' characteristec than the Elmers.
-
So TB...no further comments on the use of vintage drivers? I would really like to know if I am travelling down the wrong path or if my thought process did not consider something?
To summarize, I am using drivers that are a direct replacement to current drivers - well actually, it's reversed...the current drivers are a direct replacement for the drivers I am using. All authorized by Mr Paul himself as the original drivers the enclosures were designed to use. The only real difference is that I have substituted a Cobreflex horn for the K600 mid-horn. But that should be OK since I'm using the vintage K500-5000 xovers, right?
The result is (to my untrained ears) a considerable increase in bass....like bass times 10. Tight, forceful, not at all 'boomy'. Bass goes considerably lower without rolling off as well. Pant-flappers. The midrange is very spacious....every seat is in the 'sweetspot' - due to the Cobreflex's. The upper mids and highs are 'mellowed' out...not sibilent and raucous like the K55/K77 combo can be.
-
Cast my vote for the "YES" pics! I only wish I had taken the time to document my build. The plans Formica has produced are spectacular. Would have been nice to have them so I wouldn't have had to take my factory Belle out of commision during the process as well as had to run in and out in and out to remeasure, check, etc. There were so many little 'gotchas' that I can now look back and say 'phew-ee, glad it's over....but at the time it was rip roaring fun. I think the hardest part was keeping the fine wood 'fine' during construction. I used Elmer's Contractors Glue - the 'Pro-bond'. Tried several other types.....all suppose to be 'contractors grade' but always came back to the Elmers. Went on the smoothest, not too thin, excellent adhesive properties. One thing that really helped was using an air brad gun to set the initial tack. Glue, press the pieces together and clamp, clamp, clamp. I must have purchased 25 clamps of assorted sizes. Corner clamps, pipe clamps, c-clamps of many different sizes and shapes. You will have to get very ingenious with the construction of 'jigs'. to continue though, glue, press together, clamp, hit it with a brad nailer, drill then screw.
I wanted to answer some of your final measurement questions but was confused about exactly what you were referring to by 'baffle board'. Plus, subsequent posts pretty much nailed all the questions. If there are any further measurement questions or requirements, let me know. "Yes', the grilles lay against the angle of the doghouse on the inboard side, and are held in place on the outer sides by 1/2"x1/2"x6" pieces of wood that are screwed from the top and bottom of the bin. So if you're looking at the top (or underneath) of the bass bin, you will see the screw heads holding the angled side of the doghouse and these pieces of wood. Kind of an "M" pattern.
I will print and take home your latest AutoCad drawing and review against my factory Belle for accuracy.
-
Yup...you're both correct. Age is creeping up on me......sorry again for any confusion, it is most certainly trapezoidal in shape.
Marvel - maybe there's something wrong with my H1's? Since I got the cabs then populated with existing components that I had, perhaps I have made a faux pax in the component mix. Here's how I populated the pair I deemed to be 'screetchy'.......first, the xovers are the original Type "E"s. Not the ones with the small caps laying sort of flat, but rather the ones with the large oil filled upright caps. These networks look identical to the Type "B"s I yanked out of a pair of early 70's Cornwalls, only I believe they utilyze a different transformer tap. Very spartan (component wise) in appearance - not much to them. The tweeters are stock K77's from a 1972 Khorn that my dad had 'upgraded' with a mid-80's component upgrade kit from Klipsch. These K77's are the ones with the round magnets, not the flimsy square ones. The mid-horns are K700's, and they are the 'sand cast' looking aluminum ones. About a 1/4" thick. Not the thinwalled stamped looking ones. The mid-driver is the standard K55V, the ones with the push on connector setup. For the woofers, I think the designation is K22-"E" (but maybe "R"?). They have metal colored baskets and magnets, which are round. They are not the black basket units with the round or square magnets, though I just received a pair of those black basket ones yesterday that I think I might try out instead.
Also, what woofers do your JBL's have? I have a handful of JBL 12" woofers that I am thinking I will try out in the 'garage pair' of Heresy's just to tinker. A couple of D123's, a 2212, a 2130 and another one which I forgot the designation of. So far I can't really tell much of a diff from the Klipsch K22's, but they are nice looking speakers......:-)
One thing that made a huge difference in mellowing out the screech factor was putting a Jensen RP302 in place of the K77, but try and find a few of those for under $650/pair.......ha ha ha
academy just sold for 107.50 on e-bay
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Friend, I'm not here to belabor any point nor am I the resident 'esnipe shill'. I'm simply passing on experiences that worked for me. Take it or leave it - makes absolutely no diff to me. In fact, the less people who use it the better the chances for me......I have 'won' (the right to buy) many, many klipsch items that I can directly attribute to esnipe....a partial list:
85 Cornwalls - $255
single Belle (WO) - $275
the single Heresy - $103
6 Stephens Trusonic 103LX2's - not one over $50
7 University SAHF's - not one over $25
pair of Forte II's - $275
Infocus LP350 front projector, brand new in sealed box w/mfg warranty - $375
SVS 20-39 PC+ - $385
The Academy - $107
Yeah, you're probably right, I would have got this junk anyway using proxy bids....nobody else was bidding those days....