Restoman

View of the EV15WK driver being cleaned up and fixing the double gasket on the basket. When you remove these from the K-horn bass bin you better eat your wheaties------Magnet is 37 lbs. and it is very hard to squeeze it in and out of the mounting position.

I think you are correct---it does not look correct to have the leads coming off at an angle. What is interesting is the other side is the same and based on my DC resistance measurements it is the correct 16 ohm impedance. I have the Electrovoice T25A drivers but they also used the T10A which looks exactly the same except for power rating: 30 Watts versus 25 Watts respectively. With such a small difference I don't know why they even bothered to have the 2 models of drivers. What is even more interesting is that my drivers have the threaded snout on both the rear and the front for mounting on the big 848HF fiberglass re-entrant horn. The older T10A and T25A drivers did not have the 1 3/8 X 18 threaded snout on the rear and they were mounted on std horns at the rear of the horn. I have a pic of the horn with the driver and small forward horn

Another basic view of the 848HF fiberglass horn placed on the K-horn bass bin.

UUUggg!---Bob Crites was right---when I openned one side X336 crossover it was not potted in tar but the other 2nd one was. I guess the only way to go here is to keep the original X336 intact and build new X-overs with new components for everyday use.

Focusing on the EV T25A compound diffraction driver 16 ohm. One side was blown and one side is still good. See pics of diaphragm removed. I have no choice but to replace it with EV part No. 89521A which is the same dimensions but 8 ohm impedance. I will need to repair the blown one and then compare it to how the other original mid horn sounds with the original driver. Note---you must save the original diaphragm gasket so you can use it as a template to fabricate another one. My originals still had "May 1955" stamped on them.

Project restore old family Georgian system. Got this from an uncle who built them in the 50's. Situation was that they were almost thrown out in the garbage and I rushed down to rescue them from the street. New plywood access covers are being made. Picture of bass bin with EV15WK driver remounted inside after resealing all joints in side and out.

Another view of driver parts. Has anyone ever found any rebuild parts out there ? EV T25A driver.pdf EV T25A driver.pdf

Just took out my Geogian 848HF horns with the compound drivers. One of them is open and the other one is good. These are the original drivers. Just like the 15WK woofers you can't find any new diaphragms or after market ones out there. I can do the restoration work if I can get my hands on the right parts. It is a phenolic diaphragm with a 2 inch diam and the whole diaphragm including the gasket shim is 3.5 inch diameter. This is a 16 ohm system. I'm including pictures for anyone else interested.

Thanks for your reply---I'll ask them if they have the right cone kits. For everyone else out there looking for EV15WK recone I have some research info that may help. EV has a cone kit PN 8516XX , however they do not answer my question concerning the voice coil. The EV 8516XX is supposed to be for a EV15W woofer. The cone and voice coil dimensions of the 15W and the 15WK are exactly the same (15 1/8 in cone diam. with 9 in depth and 2 1/2 in diam VC) . The only difference is the VC for a 15W is 11.6 ohm DC resistance versus the 15WK which is 3.2 ohms. They both have impedance of 16 ohms. The other confusing thing is that over the years EV changed part numbers a lot. My current 15WK woofers have the number 7270 in white printed on the back side of the cones. They do measure 3.5 ohm on my Fluke DVM. I also found EV PN 79629B for a cone kit and also EV PN 71157B----all of these are supposed to fit the 15WK but I cannot get any detailed specs from them to confirm correct parts. Considering that they want 90.00 for each cone kit you would want to make sure that you can at least have the correct paper cone and VC diam. Consider this option---I once had to do this for a JBL driver for a friend that had a woofer that was torn all the way around on the paper cone but the VC and spider was otherwise intact. I had to very carefully cut away the cone from the VC and reglue a new paper cone that my friend already had. This worked and the speaker operated like new. This was done out desperation as he did not want to spend any money on a new cone kit because he already had a cone with no VC parts.

The edge surround which is corrugated shaped paper has some mildew on it and coakroaches or silver fish kind of ate some of the top layer of paper off of some parts of the edge. One of the 15WK's had a very small tear on the edge which I was able to fix and is hardly noticeable. I may be able to get away with just coating the edge with some flexible edge damping compound or cloth surround flex coating just to help them hold together better until I can figure out whether to replace them or find the correct recone parts. When I carefully push on the cone it moves up and down without any clearance issues on the voice coil. I measured the DC resistance of both units and it measures out at 3.5 - 3.6 ohms so that is correct for 15WK's. EV currently has a recone kit for the 15W (not 15WK) 16 ohm but I do not think it is the voice coil that has 3.5 ohm DC resistance. I could very carefully just use the paper cone and retain the original voice coils but that would be a very delicate operation to separate the original cones from the voice coils as they are glued with red epoxy. I used to recone JBL and EV woofers for a local pro-sound company back in my younger day so I can recone them myself as long as I can get the correct components. I used to work for Bose repairing their 301, 901 speakers too.

Has anyone else had any luck with trying to find the correct cone kits for EV15WK woofers. I am restoring a pair of Georgian speakers and even though the 15WK's are still working they are really showing the age of 50 yrs. I figure that if I am going through all the trouble of resealing and painting the K-horn bass bins and rebuilding the cross overs I may as well do it right and recone the 15WK units for a complete rebuild.

Sorry--only 1 pic uploaded----I think you are wanting the big bass bins ??

This is the perf sheet from EV K-horns. I am assuming you are looking for the big corner horn bass bins or maybe build them your self. Also included a pic of my bass bin which is being rebuilt.

For all you old die hard tube fans. Ever notice how hard it is to find tubes now or to match them yourself now that you can't even find electronic stores with tube testers ? I was digging through my closet and found a tester I bought many years ago. Cleaned it up and it still works. Going through calibration of it now. See photo----Still had all the paperwork in the box.

Started to reseal my Georgian bass cabs

Would anyone be interested in reprints of old Dynaco documentation ? I have most of all the original manuals and schematics of all the products as one of my friends used to be a Dynaco dealer and Klipsch dealer. I am also rebuilding an old EV Georgian 16 ohm corner horn system and can post pictures and or progress of projects. I can post cabinet drawings and specs for anyone else restoring an old EV Georgian.

I have a pair of Georgians assembled from a kit from EV way back in the 50's. The model 105 was just the dirver components kit and the model 106 was the baffle kit. I still have the original plans for both the K-horn baffle and the plans for the decorative cover shell. I am in the process of rebuilding my pair right now. I am planning to run it bare bones with just the corner horn bass baffle with the 848HF horns open with everything painted satin black. Is your X336 cross over housed in a large silver wood box with EV logos on it or is it a metal can ? The older wood box ones were not potted in tar so you could rebuild them and replace caps and or coils. Original price for my kits were 295.20 per speaker which was the 105 and the 106 kits together for that price. You needed to buy 2 105 and 2 106 kits for a working pair. My original Amp was a Pilot tube preamp with a Harmon Kardon tube Citation II Pwr Amp. I am currently running a Dynaco solid state preamp with a Stereo 150 Pwr Amp.