mustang guy

I figured it out guys. The neutral needs to be dedicated from the GFCI to the outlet. There is a second neutral that goes to the bus. Everything is working fine.

It seems like this big air leak would affect the sound a lot. I would call a reconer and see if they can be repaired. Here is one that does Klipsch speakers:
 
http://www.simplyspeakers.com/klipsch-speaker-repair.html

here ya go

Here is the simplified schematic:

I may not be a competent tech, but I am persistent. I joined the DIYAudio tube forum, bought a couple books, watched videos, read articles, acquired a bias tester, turned a fan controller autotransformer into a bench variac, opened an account at Mouser, ordered new caps, cautiously installed them, installed a ground cord, installed bleeder resistors on the caps, tested all resistors, tested voltages, and have used the amp successfully. Here it is:

Welcome to the forum.
Are you getting music from the sound bar? If so, here are the steps for troubleshooting subwoofer pairing difficulties:
no sound from subwoofer • Is it plugged into a “live” outlet and “Main Power” rear switch turned on? • Is the rear subwoofer volume control turned up? • Has the subwoofer “paired” with the soundbar? Subwoofer will not wirelessly “pair” with the soundbar (subwoofer green status lights continue flashing) • Move subwoofer closer to soundbar • If other wireless devices nearby (i.e. baby monitors. cordless phones, Wi-Fi, etc.) have multiple channel selection, switch their channel • Turn both the soundbar and subwoofer off, then turn on again to initiate a new pairing sequence • Using the end of a paper clip (or similar small device) lightly press in button inside of unmarked hole on the left side of input panel to the left of the “L” (red) source input for 5 seconds then, within 10 seconds, lightly press in button, with same device, on back of subwoofer on the top right labeled “Factory Use Only” If these steps do not fix the problem, you will need to call Klipsch.