Heritage_Head
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Posts posted by Heritage_Head
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If you have the money go forthe RF7ll's and don't look back.
+1
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. Just to clarify with you guys are both tweeters in these types of surrounds supposed to be as loud and playing same information?
As far as I know yes, I've not read anything to the contrary.
You need to try to swap wires in the speaker from one tweeter to the other and see if the problem follows the wiring (crossover) or stays with the driver.
+1
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Newest member to the family ,rc 64 ii what a big improvement. All i got is wow.
You rock [
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Keep in mind these are suggested setting for ht listing not necessarily other sources. []
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Yes Svs and Epik both recommend running the subs full range (120). (def tec does to but I haven’t talked to them on the phone like I have with svs and epic). Svs told me that movie content for the most part is already crossed over to the sub. Even though the fronts have bass content the other speakers just don’t have much information below 80 Hz anyways so crossing them over in svs words is almost pointless. But bass management is needed with all channel music or really small speakers like bose cubes or something. But any full range speaker that can handle bass below 50 Hz with ease is perfectly safe handling full range movie content as surrounds or even the center speaker. The most common thing I read is set everything to 80 Hz and be done but. Per svs and epik yes that works but it’s not always optimal by any means.There just isn’t a lot low content in most of the 5 channels other than the fronts when watching movies. Bass management has more advantage for 5 channel stereo music than 5.1 movies. The idea that we don’t over work the smaller speakers by sending the low content to subs is a popular argument made by many articles. It’s just not as relevant as it may seem. If there’s no low content going to most of the speakers anyways what are we really crossing over to the subs (other than the front channels)? And if there isn’t much information from 80-120 Hz in the lfe channel. Why would it matter if we set the subs to 120? I swear there are a thousand different opinions on this topic by audio gurus and they all make sense. It’s so far apart that audioholics has one article that says 120 Hz isn’t directional and another article written by gene who says based on a blind test they did anything over 60 Hz is. Lol and they are connected but written by two different people.
This is what I thought...when using LFE output/input I thought you would bypass the subs crossover anyway?! The reason for turning subs crossover to 120hz or higher was if it didn't have an LFE input, it would be open to accepting all signals (thus cranking subs crossover all the way up) that were sent to it from the AVR's crossover. Elemental Designs recommends doing just this, cranking crossover all the way up because they lack a dedicated LFE input. That way (as explained to me by an employee there) the sub will play everything the AVR's LFE output is giving it.
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There just isn’t a lot low content in most of the 5 channels other than the fronts when watching movies. Bass management has more advantage for 5 channel stereo music than 5.1 movies. The idea that we don’t over work the smaller speakers by sending the low content to subs is a popular argument made by many articles. It’s just not as relevant as it may seem. If there’s no low content going to most of the speakers anyways what are we really crossing over to the subs (other than the front channels)? And if there isn’t much information from 80-120 Hz in the lfe channel. Why would it matter if we set the subs to 120? I swear there are a thousand different opinions on this topic by audio gurus and they all make sense. It’s so far apart that audioholics has one article that says 120 Hz isn’t directional and another article written by gene who says based on a blind test they did anything over 60 Hz is. Lol and they are connected but written by two different people.
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If you hate forums why are you reading and posting? There is no perfect science to this so if someone wants to try different things then they should. Setting your sub to 80 Hz for movies is fine but it’s not the recommended number in any normal set up. Would love to hear the facts behind why it’s the best way because you failed to give any. The fact that subs have 24db/12db (ported/sealed) roll offs is irrelevant. Could you please list what was posted that was wrong and then please list the facts to why before just calling people yo yo’s.wow, this is why i hate forums. Nothing but wrong information gets passed around. Set your sub crossover to 80Hz , frequencies roll off, so even though your set at 80hz the frequency band will roll off each side, so you will still produce 90 hz and above but it won't be as predominant as if you actually had the knob set at a 100 hz or a 110hz. Setting it at 80 ensures your subwoofer will reproduce the frequency below 80 hz and some of the mid range above80hz. If you set your sub at 120hz then your going to reproduce way to much mid range and its going to sound terrible. Stop thinking your going to miss something by not getting this setting right. Set your speakers to large and call it good, let them produce what they can produce. If you want to set your receiver crossover to anything then set it to 80hz and call it good. question 2) thats corect question 3) don't increase levels at all, set to it to zero question 4) thats because these yo yo's told you to set it at 120hz, set it at 80hz like i told you and tell me how much better it is for movies. question 5 ) if you set those rf 52s to small then your going to short yourself on the low range frequency, that speaker can reach as low as 36Hz, if you decide to set it to small then your telling that speaker "hey i want you to produce 60hz and above (not sure where small actually sets the crossover for that speaker but im sure its 60hz or above). so set it to large and call it good question 6) never heard of bass out, skip that until you know exactly what it does. Never hurts to call Yamaha directly and ask them. So in short , like this thread should have been. Set the sub to 80hz, set your crossover to 80hz or less (lowest i would set it would be 60hz), sit back, relax and enjoy the show
I was just reading through this thread. I kind of knew some of these things before, but think I understand them with more clarity after reading through this. Thanks for the discussion. A few things I'm wondering if I've got right...
- Sounds like you always want to set the knob of your sub at 120hz or above, just so it can receive signals that high if they're coming from your LFE channel (or if you've set your crossover on your receiver higher). For example: if I have my crossover on my receiver set to 120hz, and my sub's knob set to 80hz... I'm effectively loosing everything in the 80hz - 120hz range? (Not that I would do that.)
- I'm assuming that when I set my crossover on my receiver, that is ONLY effecting the frequencies going to my L/R/C/SL/SR that get sent to the sub and NOT capping the LFE frequency? So if my crossover on my receiver is at 80hz, my sub could still receiver 120hz signals from LFE during a movie?
- My Yamaha receiver has a "level" for each channel, including the sub. Basically like a volume or output or gain or something. I'm assuming that effects ALL bass output to my sub, whether it's from LFE or taken from the other channels?
- When I listen to movies it sounds like there's a lot more bass than when I listen to music. I'm constantly having to push up the aforementioned "level" of the sub around 5-10dB more when listening to music. I'm assuming that's because I get both low frequencies from L/R/C/SL/SR AND LFE in movies, and only low frequencies from L/R when listening to music? (Kind of annoying constantly having to adjust the bass.)
- I have RF-52 IIs for my L/R (36Hz-24KHz), RC-52 II for my center (67Hz-24KHz), and RS-42 IIs for my SL/SR (62Hz-24KHz). Due to the range of all these, I'm assuming I need to set my receiver crossover at around 80hz. However, I'm wondering if I should set just my RF-52 IIs on "large" rather than "small" so they aren't effected by the crossover? Or is that not a good idea? In my head, even though they go a lot lower, seems like perhaps there's bass going to L/R channels that would probably be handled by my SUB-12 better, but wasn't sure.
- My Yamaha receiver has a "BASS OUT" with options of Front, Sub, and Both. Anyone know what that's about? Does it effect only LFE, only channel crossover, or all bass output?
Any expert opinion on the above would be appreciated
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Looks like you’re getting it. Your Yamaha receiver’s bass out options is like a double bass feature. It gives you the option to send the lfe content to both your sub and mains. I would leave this setting to just the sub. And yes the bass goes down for music because there’s no lfe content. I wouldn’t set your sub to 120 for music. You’re going to have to find a good crossover for your room and speakers. Every room has different room gain so tinker with it tell you find what you like.I was just reading through this thread. I kind of knew some of these things before, but think I understand them with more clarity after reading through this. Thanks for the discussion. A few things I'm wondering if I've got right...
- Sounds like you always want to set the knob of your sub at 120hz or above, just so it can receive signals that high if they're coming from your LFE channel (or if you've set your crossover on your receiver higher). For example: if I have my crossover on my receiver set to 120hz, and my sub's knob set to 80hz... I'm effectively loosing everything in the 80hz - 120hz range? (Not that I would do that.)
- I'm assuming that when I set my crossover on my receiver, that is ONLY effecting the frequencies going to my L/R/C/SL/SR that get sent to the sub and NOT capping the LFE frequency? So if my crossover on my receiver is at 80hz, my sub could still receiver 120hz signals from LFE during a movie?
- My Yamaha receiver has a "level" for each channel, including the sub. Basically like a volume or output or gain or something. I'm assuming that effects ALL bass output to my sub, whether it's from LFE or taken from the other channels?
- When I listen to movies it sounds like there's a lot more bass than when I listen to music. I'm constantly having to push up the aforementioned "level" of the sub around 5-10dB more when listening to music. I'm assuming that's because I get both low frequencies from L/R/C/SL/SR AND LFE in movies, and only low frequencies from L/R when listening to music? (Kind of annoying constantly having to adjust the bass.)
- I have RF-52 IIs for my L/R (36Hz-24KHz), RC-52 II for my center (67Hz-24KHz), and RS-42 IIs for my SL/SR (62Hz-24KHz). Due to the range of all these, I'm assuming I need to set my receiver crossover at around 80hz. However, I'm wondering if I should set just my RF-52 IIs on "large" rather than "small" so they aren't effected by the crossover? Or is that not a good idea? In my head, even though they go a lot lower, seems like perhaps there's bass going to L/R channels that would probably be handled by my SUB-12 better, but wasn't sure.
- My Yamaha receiver has a "BASS OUT" with options of Front, Sub, and Both. Anyone know what that's about? Does it effect only LFE, only channel crossover, or all bass output?
Any expert opinion on the above would be appreciated
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One of the forum members sent me a deposit to hold them for a couple weeks till he could pick them up. It's actually been 3 weeks and still no further response. You think maybe he just wanted to give me $100 for kicks? Lol I marked them sold when the check cleared. I'm sure he b in contact at some point.
Lmao i can’t imagine having awesome speakers just waiting
for me and not doing anything. He’s a stronger man then me. I just order my
first SACD cd (pink Floyd dark side of the moon) can’t wait to try it out. It’s
really hard for me to listen to cds in just 2 channel. I’m too spoiled now with
digital 5.1. So im excited to hear how a 5.1 SACD will sound in my set up(The Wall
is coming out in feb2012). By the way still waiting for your review on the
rf-7ii. -
I thought you had your rf-63 sold?
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Wow the 7s make the rf-63s look tiny [
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I want to thank everyone for the GREAT feed-back on this topic i started.... one wouldnt think there was so much to consider when setting up crossover points on subs, I think it helps when we remember that L.F.E. and bass management are 2 seperate items that must work together at times! and each of our systems will be set up, maybe differently when it comes to crossover points, but the general rules still apply.... Ray
Np ray sounds like you got the jist of it. Bass in general
for so many reasons can be really hard to get right depending on how you want
it to sound. For some it’s as simple as a $150 10” 100watt polk sub. For others
it can cost thousands. It’s easily my favorite part of ht when it’s right. -
So, if LFE content goes from 10-120hz, and your speakers are also playing everythingfrom 60 or 80 and up, why is it called LFE? If I cross my mains over at 60hz, the center at 60 or 70hz and the surrounds at 70hz, I was under the impression the sub is playing everything below 70hz. You're saying there's a separate stream of info playing from 10-120hz? Nevermind the subs crossover, I always open that all the way up and let the AVR send what I want to the sub...which from what I'm reading is all frequencies from 10hz-120hz?
I think when you are playing music (2 channel) or anything not 5.1 encoded; only the crossover settings apply.
When playing 5.1 encoded (movie) tracks; the LFE channel is separate. (I believe). If I am mistaken on this; please correct it for me. (Break it down in a simplified manner please).
Brunt; I am with you; I let my sub do 60 hz and down.......
I may experimant more with the LFE settings; but honestly; my movies sound great and my music even better; so.....
Right on iron slave you nailed it. The .5 is separate
channel of its own but when listening to 2 channel music 120 hz would be way to
high imo. There is no perfect science to
all this so whatever sounds best to you is going to be the right setting.
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So, if LFE content goes from 10-120hz, and your speakers are also playing everythingfrom 60 or 80 and up, why is it called LFE? If I cross my mains over at 60hz, the center at 60 or 70hz and the surrounds at 70hz, I was under the impression the sub is playing everything below 70hz. You're saying there's a separate stream of info playing from 10-120hz? Nevermind the subs crossover, I always open that all the way up and let the AVR send what I want to the sub...which from what I'm reading is all frequencies from 10hz-120hz?
The .5(lfe) is aseparate channel of bass content of its own that’s
mixed in by the sound engineers for the movies. If you could somehow disable
all the other channels the lfe would still pump out its own bass content. That changes
when you start setting speakers to small as I go over in the above posts. When watching
a movie the lfe bandwidth content is 20-120 Hz. If you crossover your sub lower
than that you will lose bass content that’s in that channel for that movie. That
doesn’t mean you can’t it’s just not recommended. This is for movies as the
link above goes over. So when listening to other sources like cds it would be
better to set the sub much lower than 120 Hz (probably like 50 or 60 tops).
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It was my plan if the AVR didn't work out as a sub amp. But so far so good. I like that particular Behringer amp because it has RCA inputs and LED levels
which the EP series don't, but you can't brigde 4-ohms on them as they
don't handle 2-ohms. That's what made me hesitate.
(50watts is still too small for any sub application
even horn loaded for my taste)
Did you read where I wrote that my AVR is capable of 157W, so it's not really 50W? I could use a 300W amp for 3 dB more than now, but not much more without fearing to max out the sub. So there's little point in the EPQ-1200 which would give me 600W into 4 ohms (6 dB more than what I have now) and give me fan noise which I don't have now.
Did you also read where I can play Tron at reference level in my room using that AVR as sub amp? So far, that's the loudest LFE movie I have.
And, if you really think 50W can never be enough, check this out:
50 Watts each into two THTs and 125 dB in the room. Still think it's too small? The thing that makes me use more juice is my EQ structure, so I need to tame my room to fix that rather than apply more power.
Lol Yes I read your post sorry my comment wasn’t meant to
sound like I didn’t I was just talking about amp sizes in different types of
subs. The 50watt amp comment wasn’t actually directed at your set up. Although I
can certainly see why you would have thought it was after re reading my post. Anyway
anything’s possible but head room would be my main concern running a small amp
vs a bigger one. It might have the potential to reach a high db rating but
would limit your overall settings. A good example would be your comment about how
using an eq limits your power. Even though
someone could get a high db level with a small amp what happens on the next
movie that has even more bass demand does the amp clip. And to take that a step
further if some is watching a movie it would be way easier when the bass really
hits to run an amp to clip vs a larger one with more head room.
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It may seem backwards but because of how audio engineers mix
movies you’re not really changing that much using the small setting for most of
the channels when using 80hz or lower (other than the fronts and maybe a tiny
bit for the center). They know better that anyone how things are set up in
movie theaters and ht. And they mix the audio tracks accordingly. It wouldn’t make
any sense to put a bunch of 20 Hz content to speakers they know wouldn’t have
ANY chance of reproducing it (even in there studios). So all the low content gets
sent to the lfe channel before we even get it to are blu ray players.
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Brunt LFE is mixed at 20-120 Hz so the sub itself when watching a movie should never be crossed over under 120 Hz or you could be losing bass content in the movie. But when using bass management in your avr by setting speakers to small, what he’s saying is to not crossover those speakers that are set too small to over the 60 Hz range. Or you increase the odds of adding content to your sub that will make it more localizable. (Wow that’s actually a word lol)
LOL...I'm not sure I'm following either
What I think your saying is that you want your sub playing all LFE content available and that said content goes up to 120hz. I'm sorta cloudy on what setting your speakers to big or small actually does. I don't agree with some people's advice to set all your speakers to 80hz but that may be a seperate subject. My on screen display and owners manual does not do a good job of explaining the "small" and "large" settings.
On the first part you are correct about my point that the
lfe channels content goes up to 120 Hz. Lowering your subs crossover below 120
Hz would lose lfe content. On the large vs small I have spent so many hours
learning on this topic and just when I thought I understood it all I found that
to be untrue. Here’s the most basic way it works: if you leave all your
speakers set to large all that means is you’re not changing anything, and
everything is going to play just how the movies audio engineers mixed it to
play. We could call this a factory audio setting I guess. If you change any
speakers to small you are changing the factory setting to what audio information
goes to what speakers. So if you set your speakers to small and cross them over
at 80 Hz you’re rerouting the audio information below 80 Hz to the subs channel
(lfe). The thing to remember is that almost all movie theaters crossover there
surround and rear speakers to 80Hz (that’s a fact!). Audio engineers that do the
audio mixing on movies know this so they don’t put much if any content below 80
Hz to the surrounds anyways (what would be the point). Having a seamless audio
mix means no overlapping frequencies so if you looked at a graph and ran just the
surrounds you’re not going to see any low frequencies coming out of them
anyways. So setting them to small at 80 Hz does very little if anything. If you
have super small surrounds and want to protect them by setting them to 120 Hz
that would probably change it a little but it would be more for peace of mind. A
big reason that they say to set your fronts to 80 Hz is so you don’t have phase
issues with your subs. As I said before speakers use analog crossover
networks, and the avr and a lot of subs use digital crossover processing. Digital
and analog processing speed is different so that can mean the timing/phase can
be different. Depends on the sub though my old klipsch subs integrated fine. But
my svs uses a digital processor so it took some tinkering. Having a bass eq
like the sms-1 makes it way easier to get a smooth bass response having the 3
subs and setting the mains to large. In your set up Jason I would run it all
large unless you’re having bass issues then you might try setting your mains
and center to 50 Hz. But if you like your bass and don’t have phase issues I would
go large.
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I agree 50 watts for a sub would be really light. I have 2600watts
total rms in my 3 sub amps (1200/800/600).
Apples and oranges... My sub is horn-loaded. It wll reach reference typically with 30W depending on frequency content (I use EQ extensively because my in-rrom response is preety bad), and it shakes the whole house in Tron at reference level maxing out the amp. I'm lying a bit about 50W... It's a harmon-kardon avr-325 rated at 55WPC but bench tested at 157W into 4 ohms driving a single front channel, which is close to what I am doing. I could double that power into my sub, but likely not much more, before reaching x-max. This way I feel comfortable knowing I am not that close to bottoming out the driver. But I could use a second THT for sure, or a Cimena F-20.
EDIT: The THT sub is under construction in my current avatar.
(Agreed) That sub does look awesome and if I had better wood
skills I would have probably built all my subs just like that one. Also I understand
the value of the enclosure is huge. The bigger the box the less power is needed
that’s why small little cubs like sunfire, and def tecs use monster amps that
are always in the 1000 to 2500 watt range, and still can’t compete with a big
box with an amp half the size (50watts is still too small for any sub application
even horn loaded for my taste). Have you thought about trying a pro amp like behringer
for your sub? I have read a lot of people love them and are an amazing value
for price.
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Brunt LFE is mixed at 20-120 Hz so the sub itself when
watching a movie should never be crossed over under 120 Hz or you could be losing
bass content in the movie. But when using bass management in your avr by setting
speakers to small, what he’s saying is to not crossover those speakers that are
set too small to over the 60 Hz range. Or you increase the odds of adding
content to your sub that will make it more localizable. (Wow that’s actually a
word lol)
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Also that article you linked is exactly what I have been
saying in this thread about how it all works together. The 5 to 7 channels are
all Full bandwidth (20-20,000 Hz) but they don’t handle any of the lfe content
unless you have an avr function like double bass turned on where you send the
lfe content to the fronts. All that full bandwidth means is that those channels
have the ability and flexibility to have the full bandwidth of information to
them from 20-20,000hz. I think when people see full bandwidth they immediately think
it means that all their speakers are getting the full load as well as lfe content
unless they set the speakers to small. That would be false because there only
getting the content from their separate channel. So when making a movie and
mixing the audio channels they aren’t going to be sending a lot of super low end
content in the 20-75 Hz range to the surrounds or even the center anyways. So setting
those speakers to small in most cases (other than 5 channel music like cds) doesn’t
really do too much (unless you crossover really high like over 100 Hz). The fronts
however do get a pretty good amount of low end bass content (but it’s not lfe content).
The biggest issue with setting your mains to large is phase and timing issues
with your subs. Because speakers normally use basic analog crossovers and an
avr uses a digital processor. The speeds in processing are usually different from
each other. So it’s easy to end up out of phase. So in most cases it can take
some time getting your sub or subs integrated with your front speakers if you
set them to large. And as I can attest to that can definitely take some time
and tinkering to get right.
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It seems to me that confusion arises because LFE channel and subwoofer channel are used without proper distinction.
Here is one website.
http://www.genelecusa.com/faq/multichannel/lfe-channel/
But even there, I believe they got it wrong. The orange box at the lower right should be called subwoofer and not LFE.
Here is my understanding.
5.1 and similar numbers always refers to what is on the speaker side of the decoder.
Back in the day Hi-Fi VHS had two good FM modulated tracks derived from an extra head on the spinning magnetic pick-up. (The other head did the video.) But if we look at the subject diagram, we'd say there is only two recorded channels.
Dolby decoders would create extra outputs to the right side of the diagram.
Just L
Just R
Center was L+R (a mono signal)
The surround was L-R (a mono signal) and this would be sent to usually the left surround speaker and the right surround speaker (both the same program) but with some delay.
If you had a sub, it would be fed L+R but only freqs below 70 hz and we'd hope that the other speaker never got anything above 70 hz. This crossover point may have been adjustable. This was the .1 output.
You could play an LP and get some good results. Naturally the center mix was the same as what PWK was doing years before. Ambient or surround sounds picked up by recording microphones tended to be random and thus did not add up in the center. It is complicated but L+R gets a power gain while L-R fed with random does not. (I think. Smile.)
= = = =
Note that there was never 5.1 channels on the VHS tape even though it was used to feed decoders with 5.1 speaker. There were only two input channels. You may say this is an historic point of little interest. But I bring it up to show that we have to be careful to distinguish what goes into a decoder and what comes out -- and what to call them.
= = = = =
The Wikipedia article appears to describe a movie theater system when discrete digital tracks became available and there was a discrete bass channel. That went, pretty much, unprocessed to a sub behind the screen. But that is not our present home situation.
= = = =
Now we have digital storage and transmission systems which are shown on the left side of the diagram. It appear on the table that the LFE channel of storage and decoding puts bass info below 120 Hz into the LFE channel. Important: that is what is going into the decoder.
It is incorrect to jump to the conclusion that the discreted LFE channel on the recording/transmission is what the decoder sends to the sub unless there is some special setting for it (and I don't know if your decoder can do this if asked).
As we've seen, the decoder menu asks all sorts of questions about whether there are mains big or small, a center, and a sub. Importantly, where the crossover point to the sub should be set.
I believe that it does take into consideration that the LFE input up to 120 Hz has to be preserved independent of the chosen crossover point output to the sub. Therefore if the LFE input is up to 120 Hz, and you set the sub crossover to 70 Hz, the LFE channel input signal between 120 Hz and 70 Hz goes to the mains.
= = =
To belabor. The LFE concept is on the storage/transmission end and input to the decoder. The subwoofer concept is on the output / speaker end of the decoder.
WMcD
Not positive if I understood what you meant but to be clear
the .1(lfe channel) is 100% separate from the other channels. It doesn’t take
any information from other channels unless you send it there by setting
speakers to small and setting a crossover point for those speakers(Bass
management). Then and only then does your sub handle bass content from other
channels other than the lfe channel. Before we had Dolby digital 5.1 your right
the processors took the stereo 2 channel information and then split it into separate
channels based on all the info we gave it and it’s processing. But from the very
first 5.1(someone might jump in with an earlier one) system tell now we have completely
separate channels that have all their own info including a separate lfe channel
stored right on the disc. Bass management is where we reroute the low frequencies
from those channels (l/r/c/sr/sl) to the sub (on top of the lfe info). Audioholics
had a great article on this they did blind fold testing to find out what frequencies
really where non directional (it’s said to be 120 Hz). They found that 60 Hz
was actually the magic frequency and anything above 60 Hz is where people could
stat pointing out where they had placed the sub in the room. So he said when possible
run the lfe(sub) at 120hz and the other speakers no higher than 60 Hz. So you don’t
get any extra content to the sub from other channels above 60 Hz. This is just
one article of one person’s opinion so it’s not facts. Sometimes depending on
what speakers we have 60 Hz isn’t an option.
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Bingo. Maybe in a large room type a difference would b more evident.tell you the truth I cant hear a difference between my onkyo 3007 and the emotiva xpa-5. Guess I'm not playing my system loud enough.
Wow, there's an honest (and rare) opinion! Unless you are driving the amp to clipping and the amp can handle the impedence of the speakers, you probably won't notice. I don't either.
Interesting...Do you think this is do to some (not all) people "hearing" the amount of money they spent on an amp versus an actual improvement?
Depends on how loud you listen to your system. Personally I crank
it up pretty loud. It’s just easier to watch at reference levels with more
power. A 200x5 amp gives 1,000 watts total. An avr is more like 120x2 which is
240 watts total. I think some avrs are better than others when it comes to
power. So the upgrade will be more with some than others. I think my avr was
bench tested in a review at only about 45x5 watts (it’s a 2k retail avr. Paid
only 1100 though). I did read a denon
avr review that benched close to about 70x5 so it varies a little. But if someone
watches movies at an average of only about 1 -10 watts per channel. Then the
avr would be plenty. But if you like to listen to stuff at about 100 watts or
more average per channel then you would want that extra 100 watts per channel
of head room for the loud parts of movies. In my system I noticed a huge difference
when watching movies. But when just watching tv at normal listening levels I don’t
hear any difference. So an amp isn’t for everyone.
In my case, movies are less demanding on speakers than some music, but more demanding on my sub amplification. I have lots of headroom with the speakers, about 10 dB, reaching reference level for movies with my 50WPC AVR. So the external amp is not needed there. Only on rare music demos will I crank it up louder than that for music. The sub on the other hand has no headroom left because I use one channel of another 50WPC receiver to drive it. I could get a pro amp for it, but than I might be worried about overdriving it with excessive voltage.
I agree 50 watts for a sub would be really light. I have 2600watts
total rms in my 3 sub amps (1200/800/600). I probably use about 80% of it (2080watts).
Depending on the movie I probably use about half of the xpa-5 power (500watts).
One could certainly drive everything with 50watts per channel and be happy. I
guess my argument was if someone could hear an advantage to having 200x5 amp vs
just an avr powering everything. I think a large % of people don’t need it. But
i think a large 100% of people will notice the difference.
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I am going to try to place my center, on top of my sub. Any thoughts??? I will be using a heresey center, and a RSW-15 sub. I plan on using a thick rubber mat to go between the sub and center.
Anyone have any input???
It can’t hurt to try it but subs are picky about the spot
they sit in. if you set it up and are satisfied with the bass performance, and
it looks nice I say go for it. But my guess is you will probably lose bass
compared to other spots. But ya never know.
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I can’t speak to Velodyne directly but I know almost all
speaker brands that were sold at ultimate electronics (friend worked there) the
retail price was almost twice the actual cost. So if they sold a pair of rf-7ii
the stores cost was about 1600 for a pair. Def tech was even less so it’s a crazy
mark up. I said this on another forum a few months ago but if these brands don’t
change they will all be gone.
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Lets see YOUR Home Theater:
in Home Theater
Posted
If anything you want the surrounds to be to the side and
behind you a bit. But if you want to keep them there I would point them toward
the back a little. Looks good though man nice job! We all have room and seating
restraints we deal with. So compromises are made in all are set ups.