robc1976
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Posts posted by robc1976
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did you screw the bottom is speaker to mounting plate?No, mine were a little different.
Mine were BT77 (no longer available). Here are some stock photos of them.
And here are some pics of them with my previous RB-35's.
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Best pics guys, I think I want a bit more tilt, seriously considering these but drilling holes for mounting is a bad idea.
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where they these by chance?I too had almost identical mounts as Tasdom under a different brand. Extremly sturdy for my RB-35's but the only downfall was they only tilt 7 degrees which wasn't nearly enough angle for my setup.
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how much tilt do these have? How far away from wall does it hold speaker?These aren't ceiling but are very strong. I use them with my RB-75's. Very clean look and will swivel and tilt.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UV03MW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ant these really close to the ones here:
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Great info guys, found these to!
http://m.ebay.com/itm/140910284026?cmd=VIDESC
http://www.speaker-stands-store.com/home_speaker_stands.html
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Almost done with my theater build and need some heavy duty mounts for my RB61II heights/surround. In the past I have used shelves but want these on mounts for a cleaner look and the ability to swivel ect. I have tried other mounts in past and they just don't hold the weight. I would prefer a mount that hangs from ceiling instead of wall.
Found these so far, if anyone has used these or has other ideas please post them.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-smb-s1b-swivel-speaker-mounting-bracket-black--300-249
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In the middle of building my theater, I used DD "Soundbreak" on all walls, ceiling even though all walks have 15" concrete) with 3 tubes of green glue per sheet. If on budget go with regular DD 5/8" with green glue and apply 1.5-2 tubes of green glue per sheet.
For door go with double solid core, thresholds and automatic door bottom on theater side. Seal door jams with psd seals.
While post pics of my build soon...fun stuff! Enjoy it man!
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In need of a Emotiva CMX-2, PM me your price...need ASAP
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the drywall will see no weight...the feet of all gear is on a 2X4 contact point. I will say the drywall I am usingsis 1 1/4" thick (5/8" sound break pressed together with green glue in between. I actually put it on a shelf and stood on it lol! Great idea on the seal, will check it out!How about sealing your door with magnetic freezer gaskets. Or firmly compressed rubber gaskets. I don't know what they are called but have seen thick, firm, black gaskets with self adhesive on them that could be used inside the wall and have speakers placed firmly against such gaskets for a seal. I hope you are not planning on using drywall for shelves. I would not trust it to hold stereo gear. If you feel you must have drywall shelves I would recommend using plywood under it. That's just me though. If you know your design will hold, go for it.
John
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Building a new home theater and would like a bit of opinions on sealing the gear/Center speaker in the wall. My theater has a control room behind the front wall the gear/speakers are in and I would like to seal it so no sound goes thru the front wall but still have acess to it from rear. My subs will also be in wall but framed seperate from enclosure, was going to make one big enclosure but decide to have subs seperate.
I am a bit conserned about the amps getting hot from lack of air but on the other hand it is a large space so they should be plenty of air?
In the pics below it is just "mocked up" not framed out, floor in control room being replaced ect LOL!
the enclosure will be framed and I will be using 2X 5/8" Soundbreak drywall with green glue in between and "safe & sound" in enclosure ect. The wall behind control room is concrete & framed, DD W/Green glue ECT if that matters. Gear will have dywall shelves, sides & tops ect.
What I need advice on:
How do I get acess but still retain the sound proofing in the rear? I was thinking doors with a rubber seal but that will be a PITA to make a latch on it and would probably rattle.
I was thinking of makeing a channel that a VERY thick piece of plexiglass could slide in and seal up against back (Barn yard door style) but that would probably echo and also rattle.
Is ther a possible way to seal the gear to the wall from behind and leave back open?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
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Sold!!!!!
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Bump!!!!
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yours looks awesome to my friend!Looks like a fair price to me.
Good luck with your sale.
By the way, your system looks like it would rock.
Bill
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I have for sale a Denon 3311ci for $500.00 plus shipping. Receiver was hardly used and is in great condition.
Will add pics when I get home.
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There is a row of 3 seats, I am adding a riser with a aditional row of 3-4 seats also.Nice, robc. Is there only one seat in that room?
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Thanks!!! I still have to paint but it is coming along....sounds awesome!!1976, all I can say,at first glance, is awesome at least on your asthetic taste. If I had more tme I could say more; i have to get ready for work an I am very busy with my own theater. I was so impressed, I had to, at lleast say something to you about your wonderful inspiring work. Nic
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Figured I would update with some pics, I have 4 QRD's to be ordered and placed or rear side walls to complete the room.
Right MLP:
Left MLP:
Rear wall:
QRD diffusor: -
100% correct...calibration with software is a must for a great picture. Most grayscales are WAY off from the factory.power conditioners are great....for making stable power and protecting you from surges. To make your tv look 10 times better....not so much at all. YOu are definitly experiencing the differences in sets.
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I have my fronts toed in so there about 6-8" on the outside of my ears, my heights are about 4" outside my ear, center tweeter is right at ear height but my wides actually are pointed at my ear...not to much of a option with those. I may toe my heights out a bit more.I line the center of the tweeters to cross just behind my listening position. To me, this provides a great soundstage and creates even a phantom center when listening in 2ch stereo. There have been several times I had to get up to verify the center channel was indeed turned off.
I definitely recommend toeing in your speakers towards your listening position but do not like pointing them directly at my ears.
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Thats the info I needed...I think I will pass on it to LOL!!I've heard that before. Tried it very briefly while I was playing with toe in on my 82s and didn't care for it. It doesn't take much effort to give it a whirl though.
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These are awesome trapsDo those cut down on the bass response? I think thats the problem I'm currently having with my room, and I am investigating some good bass traps.
Here is a link:
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If it rolling off the highs that is what the audyssey curve does...you can try the flat curve but it is really bright. sounds like you have a reflection issue...maybe some panels and bass traps would help...did in my room!Maybe thats what I have going on...for whatever reason, my room seems to kill signals in between 40-30 HZ.
Audyseey always kills the bass response of every speaker. This and it rolls off the high end something terrible. This is why I don't use it. I figured the room must be echoing like crazy if Audy turns them down that much.
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Totally agree!!Bass traps don't cut down on bass response. They keep the bass waves from bouncing out of the corners and cancelling the waves in the room. They can actually increase the bass at the listening position and clean up the sound.
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I have heard some people saying that klipsch horns should basically be placed so the horns baically cross at your lap instead of pointed at your ears. Anyone here try this?? If so what did you think of it? I am thinking this is mayby for "larger" horned speakers EX. 'cornwalls" or something.
Any thoughts?
mounts for RB61II
in Home Theater
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