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vw_calvin

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Everything posted by vw_calvin

  1. Does anyone have any recommendation for light tracking that rattles real bad due to bass? Was going to get strips of the soft side of velcro and stick that all over, but felt pads would probably be cheaper.
  2. No, I'm familiar with the RC-64 from my dreams..... I WISH I could get the RC-64, but unfortunately Futureshop doesn't carry it! It's about as big as a full RF-62 right? We don't have too much hi-end stuff When I first started, I had the options of either the Klipsch RF-82 II HT system, Energy Veritas system, or Martin Logan Electromotions but no matching center/rears/etc. The Veritas were really crisp but too bright/sharp? for my liking (at the time). They didn't feel like they had much "oomph" where the Klipsch did. Lots of my co-workers went with the RF-82 system and recommended it. So I went Klipsch! Plus they were cheaper.... I've now grown to like bright systems..... That or maybe I've just became accustomed to really clean audio, the new receiver is a crapload more bright than my old HK. First I wasn't 100% pleased because everything was so harsh but after listening to it for 3 weeks it's waaaaayyy better! Question tho! I can't seem to get MCCACC to work properly. It keeps telling me my sub is way too loud (before the calibration started!) and I've got it turned all the way down... Then if i just hit skip to proceed and ignore the sub, the final settings end up like L: -12.0dB C: -12.0dB R: -12.0dB SL: -3.0dB SR: -2.0dB where -12.0dB is the minimum my amp can adjust to, so who's to say that it doesn't want to go even lower and it can't! Then when I was out of the house my roommate setup his macbook with a nice mic, my Apogee Duet (DAC), and used some program and manually calibrated it, and found that the 3 front speakers don't match up dB wise as in L: 0.0dB C: -1.5dB R: +1.0dB Why they all difference levels? Thanks
  3. My RC-62 came in the mail yesterday, the thing is a beast! Haven't had a chance to listen to it yet, I just unboxed it an put it beside the RC-52 before work yesterday. Excited to get home!
  4. and ya, the SC-1525 is crazy! I love it, all the little things are so 'crisp'.... I thought my AVR-354 was loud. You were able to hear it slightly outside of my front door (on the same wall of that big window), but my house is quite old/thick and I live on a busy street. Now when I turn it up, you can hear it down my driveway and across the street! lol
  5. Nah... I still have 5 remotes I'll probably get a 900, I think I like the idea of being able to adjust volume without having to look down at the remote and that kind of thing.... maybe I can ask for it for Christmas Can anyone explain exactly how the RF works, so that it can adjust the settings of the components. Does it plug into crap etc?
  6. There's been a couple upgrades in the last while.... A month or two ago: -Monster HTS 1600 Powercenter $100 Last week: -Started off by getting 3 more pairs of the new Panasonic 3D glasses I only had the 1 pair before. Sadly finding out there's no loop-holes around getting surround and 3D to happen simultaneously with a HDMI 1.3 receiver which led to get.......... -Pioneer SC-1525 (SC-35 without the RS-232) for $600 :D OMG this thing sounds amazing, haven't fully got MCACC working, and I need to buy a SPL meter but still, so much nicer than the AVR 354! Yesterday: -Klipsch RC-52 This is also amazing, makes it sound as if real people are in the room, rather than 'listening to a speaker'.... I know I should have got the RC-62, but this is just temporary. I'll easily be able to sell if for what I paid, and then get a 62.... Future plans: -Harmony One or 900... I'd rather the 900, but depends if I feel like spending that much at the time -RB-61's for either surrounds or rear surrounds
  7. The 1/4" on the sides was unavoidable, and I fixed the top part. The HK was wider than most receivers, and it had to fit in my stand. I decided to go with the Pioneer SC-1525/SC-35..... I talked my boss down to $599
  8. So my work has a sick employee sale going on for receivers. 50% ticket price..... It's too good to turn up... I've got a HK AVR354, and well, it's a AVR354..... I think it has overheating issues, I dunno, but I only paid $85 for it. My options are: -Denon AVR-3312 $600 -Pioneer SC-1525 (demo model, but hardly used) $700-might be able to talk my boss down to $600 -Pioneer VSX-1126 $500 The SC-1525 is basically a SC-35, but Futureshop exclusive. Mostly a toss up between the 3312 and the 1525, but the 1126 is a lot newer so I thought it might have some extras. AirPlay is cool, but I have a airport express, so dont favor the Denon in that sense. What're your opinions?
  9. I work at Futureshop Victoria..... Don't be posting employee prices online I've got the RF-82s. Definitely worth it. Later pick up the RC-62 (online only) and RS-42's for rears. if you want 7.1 get the RB-61's for surround backs...... Check quickly if her store has any Velodyne 12"s or 15"s in stock!! They've gone on clearance and have gone really cheap! I've got the 15 and loooove it! So much that I'm tempted to buy a second one As far as receiver goes, check out the Pioneer SC-1525, that went on clearance recently too, so look for a dirty deal on that as well... My boss goes crazy with clearance and does stuff way below cost.
  10. 240Hz version is also out as well as the 3D version. Next year it's going to be an 80".
  11. Do you have to mount dipoles (Rs-42) on a wall? Or will speaker stands work? I can't mount em in my current place because they're plaster walls and on one side there's a window, so I have to use stands..... Also, is there and negatives of using RF-62s or 82s as surrounds if I've got the space? Cause I don't know how good RS-42s would match, and I can't order in RS-52s. So I'm stuck with either RB-61s, RF-62s or RF-82.
  12. I'm running monster banana plugs on everything. The noise was coming out of all 5 speakers tho :S but I'm thinking it was over heating, cause it's stopped for now.
  13. I think it was an overheating issue. Because I unplugged it for 10 or so minutes. Then ran it and it never came back. In the stand I have, there's only about 1/2" room on top, and 1/4" on the sides. So if it happens again, I'll phone up HK and see what they say. I was reading up, and often HK replaces the unit with either a refurb or a AVR2600. I really wouldn't mind a 2600 cause it has 3D capabilities (with firmware upgrade via USB rather than stupid RS232), I'm running hdmi spitters to my tv cause the 354 doesn't do 3d.
  14. unplugged power for a few seconds and plugged it back in and it went away... but it came back
  15. f*********ckkkkk! My receiver randomly started making weird noise! Was watching star wars episode 1 on -10db and now it 'pulses' somewhat. The regular movie audio plays fine, but behind it, even when I mute the receiver, it's makes a weird sound, on and off, on and off. It's a quite sound, not very loud, and doesn't get louder/quiter with adjusting the volume output. It does it regardless of receiver mode/volume. Of course stops when I power off the receiver, but otherwise it does it so as it's turned on... And I had just put my secondary AVR-354 for sale on CL! haha. The secondary one's firmware is all mess and I'm having trouble updating it. baaahhh
  16. I always run it in stereo when listening to music, but I don't under stand what you mean "present a net negative" lol. Do I need to run a hpf on the sub? Won't it just not produce the sounds and not do any harm? Or can harm be done?
  17. Setting your speaker to large means you're running the speaker full range. It is rarely recommended to run in such a configuration for a variety of reasons, although some people on this forum seem to like it. Setting your speakers to small and specifying a crossover frequency means that the receiver will apply a high pass filter to the speakers and a low pass filter to the subwoofer. IOW, if you set your mains to small and specify a crossover frequency of 80Hz, a typical result is that the receiver will set the 3dB down point of your mains at 80Hz, and apply a 12dB/octave rolloff beyond that, ie they will be 15dB down at 40Hz, 27dB down at 20Hz. On the other side, the subwoofer will receive bass data from the main channels, but will have its own filters, a common setup being that it will be 6dB down at 80Hz, with a 24dB/octave slope above that (ie it would be 30dB down at 160Hz). This is what I've got set. Fronts: 80Hz. (RF-82) Center: 120Hz. (Sound dynamics cine-center 4" drivers, it's crappy) Surrounds: 100Hz. (Technics towers) Subwoofer: 15 inch. (velodyne DLS-5000R, with the crossover set at around 1/2. Stupid velodyne didn't give me a scale, so not 100% what hz it's at.) Everything seems about right, that's what the calibration set stuff at with exception of the RF-82 were set at Large, and it didn't take in the sub size. what exactly does setting the 'size' of the sub do tho? I understand the crossover for the sub being set when adjusting the fronts.
  18. Woah! That's crazy, it looks almost identical to that PSB. No it was a older Fidek 12" that my room mate had. Was a POS with a 100RMS amp. It ended up being blown after watching Tron
  19. The abyss was discontinued. The more recent model is the Dynamo. I can only get the dynamo 500s tho. With your 1100, do you find it annoying having to look at the remote (buttons) to adjust stuff? Rather than having button locations memorized? I'll prob end up with the 1100, just cause it's baller, and I work in HT at Futureshop, so it's always good when you've got the best stuff... My favorite's when people are saying 40s&32s are plenty big, then proceed to ask what size I've got... Lol. That'll be the case with the 15" sub now too. Everyone I talk to thinks this thing is redonkulous.
  20. So I brought home the demo 15" today and I'm loving it... Still have to fiddle a little more to get it blend nicely. I'll pick up a brand new one tomorrow... I've got my RF-82's crossover set at 80Hz, and well my dumb receiver doesn't have a cross over setting for the sub, otherwise I'd set it at 80. However it does have the option for speaker size.... What does that do really?? The one 15" is pretty darn powerful, probably won't need a second, maybe later I'd I have extra cash to throw I'll bring one home and see what kind of difference there is. Still want to get: RC-62 (next paycheque, wish I could order the 64 :'() Harmony 900 or 1100 (opinions?!? I just like the cool factor of the 1100 but the 900 is probably more practical) Monster HDP2550 Surrounds (haven't decided bookshelves/dipoles/towers yet) On a side note, I set up some Martin Logan XStat Vistas today with the ML Depth i (new, none broken:P) and a Pioneer SC-1525K and man oh man am I jealous!! Sub woesn't even turned on in the received at first and I was even impressed with the bass...
  21. What's your guys thought on dual velodyne 12s vs single 15? Cause I'm thinking of running two subs, but dual 15s might be overkill
  22. Ya, I've read that... too bad! I'm OCD and would've loved to have all matching brands here's a quick layout of the room....
  23. Or the option of these subs too... -Martin Logan Dynamo 10" -Martin Logan Dynamo 12" -Energy Veritas VS10B -Klipsch SW112B (impossible to find decent reviews)
  24. Fffff!!! The sub is messed :'( it claps during the real heavy low stuff... Calibrated the system, boosted the sub level by 1-3 compared to the autocalibration for movie, and now during star wars the real deep stuff in a sense "hyper ventilates" even though this sealed. now. I'm looking at Velodynes.... The 12" DLS-4000R or 15" DLS-5000R. I'll end up with two of them, I like bass and LFE (maybe I should get some buttkickers ) What do you guys think as far 12" vs 15"?? The 12 is is rated down to 25hz and the 15 down to 23... But I'm thinking the 15" would be 'slow', for music n stuff. I'll double check prices, but I think I get the 12" for around $300 and the 15" for around $430.... If someone could chime in right away that would be awesome, because I'll be exchanging the stuff tomorrow probably. but I might change my mind and get the RC-62 this paycheck cause my center is so pinner!
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