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Youthman last won the day on November 18 2019

Youthman had the most liked content!

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About Youthman

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    LaScala Trio

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    Plant City, Florida
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    Snowboarding, Website & Graphic Design, Audio / Video

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  1. I did some additional testing today and it's definitely the crossover. Swapped XLR cables for Left and Right channel on the processor, swapped XLR cables for left and right channel on the amp, replaced speaker wire to left speaker, all with same results. I just reached out to JEM Performance Audio - https://jemperformanceaudio.com/ Klipsch has authorized them to repair Heritage speakers to factory spec. Most others modify or "upgrade" the crossovers with what they feel are better components. I would prefer to keep them as close to what PWK designed.
  2. Thanks Carl. I'm in Plant City. You can see it listed under my profile photo.
  3. Sorry fellas, that's way over my head. Any chance of getting that in layman's terms? The crossovers are all AA and the tweeters are all K77M.
  4. Looking for some help / advice as you guys are much more technical than I am. Short version... 1) I ran Dirac Live on the Monolith HTP-1 processor and after the calibration, I discovered the left speaker measured quite different than the center and right original LaScalas (1980 model). 2) Using REW and UMIK-1, I measured the Left, Center and Right speaker. The center and right had similar frequency responses but the left speaker measured quite different. 3) I swapped the left and right tweeter 4) Took new measurements. The center and right speaker had a similar frequency response, the left speaker measured quite different So this tells me the tweeter is not the issue. 5) I took three nearfield measurements to try and take as much of the room out of the equation as possible and pretty much had the same results. Below is a video showing measurements from #2-4 above. I'm editing a video now of #5 above and will share it in this thread once I get it edited and will post it here as well. I'm thinking the crossover in the left speaker is faulty and will need to be repaired / replaced. Let me know if there is any other testing I should do before purchasing another AA crossover.
  5. Well, I swapped the tweeters with my Left and Right LaScalas and took some measurements with REW and the issue stayed with the left cabinet so that means the tweeter is not the issue. I'm wondering if the crossover is the issue. I'll update this thread and post in the Technical / Modifications section to see if I can get some additional eyes looking at my issue to help me troubleshoot it.
  6. Would the K77 and K77M sound different?
  7. Looks like he has the K77. I’m needing the K77M.
  8. Thanks Tasdom. I’ll check with him
  9. If I replace the diaphragm from Bob would it still sound the same as the other two tweeters?
  10. Update: No Longer Needed Last night I ran Dirac Live on the Monolith HTP-1 and discovered one of the tweeters in my 1980 LaScalas is not working properly. I need to test it to see if it's working at all but wanted to see if anyone has one for sale. Thanks, Michael
  11. I have an old school Acurus A200 (200x2) that I purchased from @willland many years ago powering my RF7 III’s. I feel it provides better separation of musical instruments, plenty of headroom and solid bass even at low volume.
  12. After listening to The Fives in four different rooms and setups, I have to say these little guys pack quite the performance, especially considering their size. Bass was surprisingly powerful from a 4.5” woofer. There are a lot of things that Klipsch got right with these. Anyone else have a chance to hear them yet? What are your thoughts. Michael
  13. Absolutely. I heard a system that had 3 of them. It was quite exhilarating but Tony had it dialed in so that it wasn't overwhelming at all and blended seamlessly with the rest of his system. We demoed music and movies at Tony's house for probably 2hrs straight. The 4000ULF sounded absolutely incredible, even in 2ch music. If you have the space, I would absolutely go with the 4000ULF. It will be your last sub upgrade (unless you decide to add a second down the road to help smooth out the bass response in your room). I'm glad @RandyH000 tagged me. Just an FYI, you can tag people by typing @ and then clicking on their name in the list. Now that I'm doing Youthman Reviews full-time, I do not have near as much free time to hang out in the Klipsch forum as I used to but still love this community and what Klipsch provides. Speaking of Klipsch, I'm going to get back to editing my review of The Fives. Be blessed! Michael
  14. There is no question you will get more bang for your buck with DIY. Not sure many would argue with that. I used to have (4) Klipsch RSW-15's. Fantastic subs but one amp failed (others likely to follow being they were over 15 yrs old) and they dropped like a rock below 20Hz. I like @David y wanted deeper extension. I reviewed a pair of PB16's and discovered they had plenty of output, dug deeper than the RSW-15's and simply sounded incredible. I sold the (4) RSW-15's and purchased the PB16's. Everyone kept telling my in the comments that if I liked SVS, I needed to hear JTR. I spoke to Jeff and told him I wanted to keep my subs behind my screen. The 4000ULF were about 3" too deep plus being ported, I knew they would blow the screen like the PB16's did (even though you could only see the ripples when the lights were on), he recommended dual Captivator RS2's. Going from dual (2) 15's to (4) 18's was pretty insane. More output than I could ever fully utilize which means gobs of headroom so the amp and subs do not have to work as hard. The additional surface area pressurizes my room and is flat down to 10Hz in my room. The PB16's went to around 16Hz and fell off pretty quickly. It didn't take me long to decide to sell my PB16's and upgrade once again. I always said if I ever upgrade from 15's, it would be to (4) 18's. I honestly do not see myself upgrading again as the RS2's are tight and articulate but deliver massive authority when needed. SVS makes great subs but JTR is on a completely different level.
  15. Previous to 2020, the Denon and Marantz did not have a way of disabling the internal amplification.
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