Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

Univek

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

31 Excellent

About Univek

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

Recent Profile Visitors

425 profile views
  1. Welcome to the forum! Some additional context may help people give you more constructive feedback. e.g. Are you looking for side surround in addition to rear surround? Also, for Atmos, sounds like you're aiming to have overhead (in-ceiling) speakers vs. Atmos-enabled (reflected)? In addition, are you looking for 4 ceiling or 2? Dolby has an excellent Atmos set up guide where it shows the placement (angle is important to note here) on the various configurations. You can see with your desired number of channels, if the angle in your room allow for optimal placement. https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/ Lastly, I had in-wall side and rear surrounds and switched to on-wall RP-250s (the old version of RP-502s) because I wanted wider dispersion. In-wall will have more of a 'finished' and hidden look, especially if you paint the grills. So that's also something you may have to consider. I have some photo in my profile you can take a look. With on-wall, there is less of work if you decide to change... where as with in-wall, not all sizes are the same so keep that in mind. Looking on the Klipsch site, I'd say any of their 6.5" inwall speakers should match well. i.e. RP-160rpw, 3650-w. Same goes with the inceiling set of speakers. i.e. rp-160rpc, 3650-c. I just recently got Klipsch RP surrounds and ceilings vs I had Yamaha before. I'd say they definitely sounded better now to me but I don't think my wife can tell the difference. : ) LCR are key and can take your time to fill in the rest.
  2. My suggestion is if you'd be opening up the ceiling to wire for the ceiling .4 if you can. Because u never know when the upgrade urge may come. And for the centre, did you consider the same 5502 as centre vs. RP-405C? You can take a look at my setup (in my profile). I room is slightly bigger and I had in-wall and in-ceiling speakers. And my LCR are behind a false wall so you don't see any speakers. I have since changed to wall mounted for surrounds. In addition, perhaps not needed at start, but look to invest in some acoustic treatments down the line. Especially for the rear and side reflection points.
  3. Ya... likely not the best room to invest in costly HT gear as Placement is key. have you considered something like the 180rpc-LCR? https://www.klipsch.ca/products/pro-180rpc-lcr Nowhere near the presence of the towers but I think for this room config, it may be a good choice. Then save those $ for a proper room later.
  4. Do you have height or top speakers for ATMOS or plan on having? Reason being, with ATMOS speakers, dolby suggests the surround to be more at ear level. rp-402s will have better dispersion, not as direct. But I suspect as @Schu mentioned, if you do the speaker calibration with Audyssey, it may be manageable. If they're too overwhelming, can always further lower the speaker output. Lastly, you may already be doing that in mentioning some canvas coming. In addition to corner bass traps which are great, may be good to look at covering those reflection points behind your seating. Cheers.
  5. Same question as @HenrikTJ. I think a photo if you don't mind may help. Critical to have Center in the front, and next to it would be good to have LR at between 30 to 22 degrees toward the primary seating positions. Dolby has a good speaker placement reference below. On the page, click on the setup you're targeting. i.e. 5.1, 7.1 etc and it has a good guide on placement suggestions. https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/ IMO, the placement of your front towers, will matter more than RP8000 or RF7 iii. Having speakers on L and R will also have some interesting (not good) effect on your nulls and peaks as they interact with the walls across from each other. Usually that happens to surround as well, but there are much more content on the LR vs. surround channels. So IMO, LR (and all speakers) placement is #1 priority, then speaker selection. Lastly, one never needs a subwoofer, or 2 subwoofers : ) But depends on how much low end you want to feel as well as balance out the experience across the various seating positions. Definitely not something you need to add all in one shot, look for deals and slowly introduce components and you can experience what you like more of and go from there. crawl-walk-run. : )
  6. Wanted to share some things I learned over last few month around my HT. I'm sure many people already knew about those, but it was definitely an ah-ha moment to me. The topic was around the benefit of baffle wall, specifically around how it help control speaker boundary interference. This was one of the great articles I read that got me going on this adventure: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013322baffle-walls/ I always thought baffle wall looked great, and although I read about boundary interference, I thought I didn't quite need to worry about it because I have all those traps etc. What got me looking into it more was after I finished my recent update (with added ceiling soffit and additional bass trap membranes), I still found that my LCR, particularly my Center had some noticeable nulls around 70 and 114Hz. Even with massive bass traps added, as well as playing with my sub EQ and reflection points on the wall, those were little improved. However, when I simply added a piece of 1/2” thick plywood that is flush with my La Scalas, the improvements were day and night! I included below a REW measurement of the response without the wall (pink) and one with (green) and you can tell the huge difference. The finish has bottom portion of the wall with 1/2” plywood fronted by acoustic foam between the La Scala. Top has 5” thick acoustic panels flash and behind are 2 2’x4’ bass traps hung on the ceiling/wall. So the space behind the screen is mostly filled. Net is, I think if you're able, having a baffle wall is worth looking into. It doesn't just look nice, but will make your HT sound even better!
  7. That's a tough room to map out a proper LCR. If TV is to go to the wall where the fireplace is, I think there is too much light for projector to work well, so acoustic transparent screen is out. Also, ideally, you'd want LCR to be on the same plane / height which means mounting Cornwall on ceiling, mid wall, even if you could, may not yield good results. I do think the phantom suggestion may be best or see if you have the heart to try a completely new LCR (since you have RP640D, get matching LR for it) and then move the Cornwall to another room for music listening. Or configure as another zone for music in same room . Just some additional thoughts.
  8. I feel the RP-500SA is designed for ATMOS height speakers as its main role. If you have the room for RP402S or even in wall. They may be better than RP-500SA for rear surround. Remember ATMOS spec for surround is at ear level. (reference: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technologies/dolby-atmos/dolby-atmos-home-theater-installation-guidelines.pdf)
  9. In my room, SVS is stronger below 27hz and PSA stronger between 34-44hz. I think that matches what people are saying and experiences w/ how SVS and PSA are tuned. i.e SVS more low end and PSA more of that mid range bass. I do like the SVS with the parametric EQ and the ease of the app to fine tune the bass. But for the money, PSA is the winner IMO. I just happened to find a SVS at a good deal so I couldn't resist. : )
  10. Awesome! AcousticSoundDesign has fantastic reviews (100% over last year and total of 11589 reviews?!). I'd think if u have issues, they will respond. I'm sure you'd enjoy the 8" over 6.5". : ) At least you won't have the bug that get you to think I should have gone bigger. lol All the best! And make sure to send photos along the way of the progress!
  11. I believe they are spring loaded but @Robert Gervais can confirm. The new construction mounting kit is where you don’t have drywall up. It is able to mount onto the studs vs without it, you cut a hole in the drywall and the speaker clip onto the drywall. I’d say if your drywall will be removed then by all means get the mounting kit. I can’t speak to the fire rated enclosure tho.
  12. I’ve read that horizontally oriented center speaker design are challenged with on-axis of the woofers. I found this article that get into it better than I could. Worth a read before you commit. https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/vertical-vs-horizontal-speaker-designs
  13. Here is the Dolby 7.1.6 overhead guide: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.6-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.html More detailed placement description are in this one: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technologies/dolby-atmos/dolby-atmos-home-theater-installation-guidelines.pdf The good thing is you don't have to hard mount it so have the flexibility. Even the seating as well, once you have the speakers, you may find moving a few inch front or back may drastically change your nulls or peak. : ) lots of 'fun'.
  14. Ah, thanks for the explanation. I love the hidden room in the back. : ) Have you considered mounting/placing the rear surround channels lower at ear level in place of one of the shelves? May fit better with the recommended ear level for surround speakers in ATMOS spec. An additional suggestion I have, and this was one lesson I learned is to make sure you have a conduit for your HDMI cable (if you were to run it in ceiling/wall). This way, as technology change, you can easily replace them. : ) Lovely room and I'm sure you'd enjoy the process of building it and even more once its complete!
×
×
  • Create New...