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  • My System
    Projection Screen: EluneVision EV-TIC 135" 4K [ceiling recessed, remote mechanized]
    Projector: Sony VPL-HW50ES*
    Projector Lift: Monoprice Stealth Motorized Recessed Projector Lift (15495)
    Receiver: Denon AVR-X8500H
    Player: Sony UBP-X8000-M2 Blu-ray/4K/3D
    Fronts: Klipsch RP-8000F
    Center: Klipsch RP-504C
    Sides: Onkyos*
    Rears: MB Quarts*
    Front Sub: Onkyo*
    Rear Sub: Klipsch SPL-120 w/wireless signal transmitter
    Ceiling: Klipsch CDT-5800-C II (x6)
    Power Conditioner: Furman PL-8 C

    *Eventually to be upgraded when budget allows as follows:
    Projector: Sony VPL-VW295ES
    Sides: Klipsch RP-600M
    Rears: Klipsch RP-640D
    Front Sub: Klipsch SPL-120

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saebel's Achievements


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  1. Just following up for those who are curious. New system is finally installed and had the first screening of a movie with Dolby Atmos last night. System is a 7.2.6. Screen Spiderman: Into the Spiderverse. Absolutely stunning. And I don't even have all the speakers yet. Still need to upgrade the sides, rears, and one of the subs. Those ceiling speakers are amazing. No regrets. Added a few pics from the installation / testing process. Everything is nice and cleaned up now.
  2. Hello all. Been slowly building my 7.2.6 system. Due to spacial constraints and recommended specs for Dolby Atmos, I am torn between RP-600Ms, laying sideways on my existing speaker stands*, or perhaps some floor-standing speakers like the RP-6000F or RP-5000F. I already have the following: Fronts (x2): RP-8000F Center: 504C Ceilings (x6): CDT-5800 C II Subs (x1): SPL-120 On my "to get list": Rears (x2): RP-640D Subs (#2): SPL-120 (waiting for a deal) Sides: ??? The room size is approximately 15 feet by 17 feet. So I sort of feel that the floorstanding ones might be overkill. The other issue is that I occasionally throw dance parties which would require moving one of the side speakers out of the way to clear the living room floor/area which doubles as my home theater zone. Granted I could use a dolly, but moving a 50 lb speaker into and out of place just doesn't seem like a good idea to me, even though it won't happen very often. This is my first time diving into the Klipsch world, so recommendations from those who have had first hand experience with those speakers would be great. * My wall space/area is weird. I cannot mount anything to the wall. On the screen left side is an open space, so I have to have a speaker on a stand of some kind or floor-standing speakers. On the screen right side is a large window and the front door. There is a small sliver of space to put an RP-600M speaker on a speaker stand. However, it has to be sideways, otherwise it blocks the light-switch. While I'm sure it's not "bad" per se, I'm just wondering if floor-standing might be a good alternative. The RP-6000Fs are only 40" high and won't obstruct anything. **For those wondering "why not some 502s?" The 502s and similar designs aren't recommended for Dolby Atmos specs, in addition, their design would block access to the light switch when set on stands. ***Option three, get shorter stands and go with the RP-600Ms set up the proper way. Doable, but my stands are basically lovely pieces of functional furniture that I would loathe to get rid of. So either a separate set of stands that goes next to them or they end up sideways on them.
  3. I think I have it figured out: 1. use 3/8 inch plywood, cut into 14" x 18" rectangles (to fit between the 16" joists). 2. Cut the hole in the center of the plywood for the speaker to fit through it. 3. Cut the hole in the ceiling. 4. Line up the plywood hole with the ceiling hole and attache to joists with L-brackets. 5. Take the ME-800-C enclosures and cut off the extra metal trim on the sides so that you end up with a 13.5"ish x 17"ish frame. 6. Attach the ME-800-C enclosure to the plywood plate via duct tape (since the trim with holes will have been removed). 7. Mount the speaker to the enclosure/plate. I think I'm just going to buy one for now and see how if my theory works. If it does, I will buy the rest.
  4. Hello folks. So I've bought the speakers (six of them), have the wire, have the tools to cut the holes. Before jump to it, I have a couple of concerns and was hoping other folks out there have figured out how to solve these issues. My house was built in 1911 and has a large attic space. Joists are 16" on center. Ceiling is wooden lathe and plaster with drywall/sheet rock below. Obviously not new construction. Now maybe the lathe and plaster is strong enough to hold each speaker? Maybe? They are definitely much heavier than I expected and I'm concerned about sagging. I am also concerned about containment. The attic space has got insulation all over and is wide open. Did a wee bit of research and came up with three possible solutions: Option 1: Bag it: https://www.parts-express.com/pro-wire-isf-147-insu-flate-ceiling-speaker-protector--300-265 Option 2: Box it: https://www.klipsch.com/products/me-800-c-speaker-enclosure Option 3: Foam it: https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-Universal-Speaker-Acoustic/dp/B00L8FDPLW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_13 Option 1 seems like a simple solution for protecting the speakers from the attic dust, etc., but doesn't address potential issues with bearing weight over time. Option 2 has had a very positive response from those who installed them. However, from every description I have read, it appears they were meant to be installed during construction pre-ceiling install and attached directly to the joists from below. The holes on the flanges are 16" on center. That makes them problematic because I don't know how we would fit them in unless we cut out the entire sheet rock, install them, and then put the sheet rock back. Here's a link to the spec sheet: http://images.klipsch.com/ME800C_635042118497170000.pdf Option 3 looks like it might handle the protection element (assuming they fit, it's really hard to tell), but won't address the potential issues with bearing weight over time.
  5. Hi there. Is this a WA-2 kit? I mean it looks like it, but wanted to be sure. What's the reason you are selling it?
  6. CDT 5800 C ii speakers arrived! They are in perfect condition. Can't believe it. Although, I still have to test them out. And holy cow are they big! Just purchased 500' of Monoprice Nimbus 14AWG x4 conductor speaker wire, Mediabridge banana plugs, clear heat shrink tubing, cable pants, and tech flex. These are my first official Klipsch speakers. I'm all in now. Just waiting for the next pay period and the 4th of July sales to start working on the floor speakers. Front Speakers (x2): RP-8000F Center Channel (x1): RP-504C Side Surrounds (x2): RP-502S Rear Surrounds (x2): RP-640D Subwoofers (x2): SPL-120
  7. Not going to be removing the drywall, just going to be cutting holes in existing lathe and plaster. Finally found the detailed info I needed on the bracket and it looks like I won't need it? Although it's kind of confusing because the enclosure seems to be designed to match with it. I think the enclosure is probably a good thing, but it looks like it was designed to be used with the bracket. I'll reach out to the engineers. I'm sure they'll have more info on it. Took the plunge and bought 6 5800s, open box from Acoustic Sound Design via Ebay at over 50% off normal retail. Wasn't even looking for it, was searching for the enclosures. I know open box might be risky, but for 50% off, I'll take my chances.
  8. What kind of connectors did you use to connect the speaker wire to the speakers? I can't tell from the pics on the Klipsch website whether it uses a banana plug or a spring-loaded catch requiring the smaller pin type. Also, did you end up buying any of the mounting accessories (the installation kit or fire rated enclosure)?
  9. I'll have to double check the ATMOS specs, but I dimly recall reading that the rears should be about one to two feet above ear level, but I might be getting my surround systems confused! Too much data (lol). But yeah, if that's the recommended spec, that's a good option. And it will be easier to hide the speaker wire. It would also work for the RP-640Ds. They'll fit quite nicely. I'd just have to move some books/stuff around. Good note on the conduit. That's going to be super challenging as it is. That said, the "pillars" to either side of the pocket door are actually hollow because they have counter weights to keep the door in place wherever you leave it. I may be able to run conduit from the attic, through the pillars, into the crawlspace, then along the bottom and up into either the floor or from the side wall. I'm super nervous about messing up the wall where the entertainment center is. There is a giant window there and probably fire blocks, so going from above on that side is probably a nightmare. Waiting to hear back from my electrician who rewired the place for me and is already familiar with the challenges.
  10. Thanks for the feedback! Re: the RP-640D: I have a very unusual situation with the rear space positions: Built in book shelves and a pocket door that goes up vertical into the ceiling. There is a little bit of shelf space above the book shelves which is where I currently have my rear channels. However, the space is limited. It's about 6" deep, 18" high, and 36" wide. And although it looks as though there is a wall to have a built in or to mount speakers, that blueish rectangle is maybe 1/4" plywood or drywall on the other side of which is a room. Mounting or drilling anything through it would totally mess up the aesthetics and I shudder at the thought of what would be required to repair it if I damaged it and change my mind later or needed to sell the house. I originally looked at the Bookshelf lines, but they are all too big. Even the RP-400Ms would jut out over the edge too precariously for my taste. I can't use the RP-500SA, because they are too deep, top heavy, and I can't mount them to the wall. I hadn't even considered the 502s, because I just assumed they would be too big. I took a second look. Due to their polygonal design, the majority of the weight would be on the main shelf. So not quite so precarious as a bookshelf. Only a little bit of the narrow center would jut out about 1.5 to 2". Still not great. Then I had a look at the 402s. Those would jut out maybe .5 to 1". That's actually not too bad. And if the sound quality on the 402s is superior to the RP-640D, they might be the better way to go. That said, the RP-640Ds would fit absolutely perfectly and have a clean look. So if the sound quality of the RP-640Ds is superior to the 402s, then that'd be the way to go. In comparing the specs between the two, what I find interesting about the RP-640D is the use of the quad radiators to complement the two 3.5" woofers. The frequency range is much broader than both the 402s and the 502s. The width being 28.5" inches means that the sound will get fairly well distributed, the low bass frequencies should be nice and smooth despite the lack of speaker cone depth. It's not using the dispersion technology of the 502s/402s, but based on the location and intended use, I'm not sure how helpful dispersion speakers would be in that part of the room. They essentially both the use the same tweeter, so I think that's a wash when it comes to comparing them. Re: sub-woofers placement: Agreed. I've read up a lot about how there can be issues with multiple sub-woofers if they are placed in symmetry. I'm getting two 10' LC-1 cables so that I've got some flexibility in placement.
  11. Up until recently, my home theater system has been a rag-tag group of adventurers thrown together with whatever came my way when I could afford it. However, I got a new job, bought a house, and for the first time can really dive deep into a fully developed home theater system without worrying about pissing off the landlord. :) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If you want to skip the back story and get to the question, skip to THE QUESTION at the end... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Let me tell you the story. No, too long, let me sum up: 1. Disc player: Upgraded from Panasonic DMP BDT310 to Sony 4K UBP-X800M2. A subtle but noticeable improvement in a system that had no other 4K gear. 2. Upgraded from a Sony STR DG800 receiver to a Denon AVR X8500H. Don't get me wrong, the Sony was fine for what it was, but damn that Denon is smoken. I have a 7.1 speaker system, and the sound quality improvement with just that piece was noticeable. Spiderman: Into the Spiderverse broke it in, and, just. absolutely. mind-blowingly. amazing. 3. Upgraded my Panaview Greywolf 106" manual pull-down textured grey screen to an Elunevision Reference Studio 4K Tab-Tensioned Motorized In-Ceiling Recessed 135" screen. I freaking love it. I broke it in watching Avatar in 3D and saw details I never saw before on the old screen or in the movie theater. (see attached pic of the screen just after we finished installing it) That's as far as I've gotten as I slowly work through my system overhaul as budget allows. Future improvements (in no particular order): 4. Installing a motorized lift to recess/hide the projector. Have the lift, currently working on the design to make sure I don't mess up my ceiling. Not rushing it and am working with a guy who is a license/bonded general contractor who has experience with the sort of thing. 5. Upgrading my Sony VPL-HW50ES 3D projector to a Sony VPL-VW295ES 4K projector. This will probably be the last thing I do. The current projector is doing just fine, including playing back 4K disks at 1080p. It's rather pricey, and I'd rather swap out the speakers. 6. Upgrading the speakers. I currently really do have a piece-meal system. There is no consistency in brand or design. They are all mostly lovely on their own, but I really want to take it to the next level. So after months of research, I settled on Klipsch because I want to go for the full Dolby Atmos experience with a 7.2.6 system and I want to be sure they are using the same technology/design base. Based on my spacial limitations, budget, and reviews, this is my plan: Front Speakers (x2): RP-8000F Center Channel (x1): RP-504C Side Surrounds (x2): RP-502S Rear Surrounds (x2): RP-640D Subwoofers (x2): SPL-120 In-Ceiling Speakers (x6): CDT 5800 C II (or CDT 5650 C II?) Currently just about everything is out of stock and on back order, so I have time to decide. But I *really* like to plan things out, wait for sales, do research etc. Cable wise: I've already bought the HDMI cables I need, and they seem to be working just fine. For the current subwoofer, I bought an LC-1 subwoofer cable from Blue Jeans cable and plan to buy a second one when I get the new subwoofers. The speaker wire I am using is all the same: E326425 (UL) Type CL2 14 AWG stranded with black outer casing and red/white inner casing. Each wire is made up of around 120 thin strands (probably 35 AWG?). I bought the wire over ten years ago, so I have no recollection of who the maker is. I am considering swapping it all out with Monoprice Nimbus Series 14AWG 2-Conductor CMP-Rated Speaker Wire. I don't have enough of the older stuff to run the lines I need with the new ceiling speakers and I've heard good things about the Monoprice cable. So I'd rather have consistency with all the wiring being the same cable type and from the same vendor. (Is that a bad thing? [that's a question, but not *the* question]) Budget is definitely a consideration. I don't have any spacial constraints. I've attached a floor plan if folks want to see what I have in mind. My house was built in 1911, btw, so it has a lot of character, and also limitations (which I won't go into now, but explains why I have to go with RP-640Ds for the rears instead of standard bookshelf). Btw, my personal background is as an occasional fillmmaker, part-time DJ who also does audio-mixes for dance performances, and does my own audio editing, music recordings, etc. I don't consider myself to be a true audiophile. But I am very picky about sound quality and mixes and audio quality. So maybe? Perhaps this new system is my final journey from which I shall ne'er return to the land of normal audacity. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ THE QUESTION ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Did you skip the backstory or read it all? That's also not *the* question. This is: Is there any significant difference between the CDT 5800 C II and the CDT 5650 C II to justify spending the extra money on the 5800s considering the rest of my planned system? While I feel confident about all my other choices, I am not confident about my initial choice of going with CDT 5800 C II for the ceilings. I've seen lots of positive reviews for the 5650s and very few "official" reviews of the 5800s - just anecdotal reviews from folks on sites like this one. I stumbled across Crutchfield's sound comparison tool, which was very cool. But even with my best headphones (beyerdynamic DT 1770 Pro), the differences in quality were nearly indistinguishable. Most of the time the various audio clips sounded identical. There were occasions were I thought I heard differences. Sometimes I liked the 5650 and sometimes the 5800s. So either their tool is flawed (it's not clear to me how they arrived at providing the audio clips) or the differences between the two really are just that subtle. And if I can barely tell the difference on those headphones, I highly doubt I'll be able to tell the difference in the actual room. That said, I can see how the frequencies and output of the other speakers may justify the 5800s because they will be closer in spec to the rest of the system, but I don't know if that's actually true. I want Dolby Atmos. I love the idea of watching a helicopter come straight at you and hearing/feeling it fly over your head and then behind you. But if the actual differences between the two speakers are essentially negligible all other factors remaining the same, then it makes more sense to save some money and go with the 5650s. I've never gone this deep before. And I've learned tons in the last couple of months as I have been researching. But I've just gotten to the point where it's time to ask those who have traveled this road before me. Feedback, suggestions, information, criticism is very much welcome and appreciated. Thanks! saebel
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