1504-5

Indeed. And still $.96 per watt. QSC PLX 1104 $594, 310 wpc x2, Free 6 year extended warranty per QSC website http://www.qscaudio.com/products/amps/plx2/plx1104_specifications.htm http://www.djdeals.com/qscPLX1104.htm

Typically, yes, but when you put the amps on a level playing field then some consumer gear is superior (at least in regards to the dollar/watt measure). Compare Emo XPA series amps to the Behringer pro-sumer amps, using full bandwidth, all channels driven power within distortion limits, and you'll find that Emotiva actually has more watts/dollar than the Behringers. That's not to say the Emos are better (lack gain controls, high inherent gain structure), but they do provide more watts per dollar. Emotiva is the present value leader in consumer amps while Behringer is kind of a bottom feeder, so perhaps that's an unfair example. But the point I would like the OP to take to heart is that it is important to make sure you're making an appropriate comparison, as the manufacturer provided specs are often quite misleading. OK, we get it, you don't like Behringer. How about QSC? The following are all class AB, specs are 20Hz-20kHz, 8 ohms, 0.1% THD. Note - QSC lists IM distortion, damping factor, and input sensitivity, Emotiva does not. It's not listed in their manuals, on the website or in their "Audio Precision Spec Test Data" .pdfs! And why does the XPA-2 Audio Precision Spec Test Data.pdf show the 1kHz output as 265 wpc @ 8 ohms (see screen shot below)? Let's talk about misleading. Emo XPA-2 $1.33 per watt - may be more due to questionable spec data, Emo UPA-1 $1.74, QSC RMX 1450 $.96 Emotiva XPA-2 $799, 300? wpc x2, warranty - 5yr Emotiva UPA-1 $349, 200 wpc x1, warranty - 5yr QSC RMX 1450 $499, 260 wpc x2, 800 mono, gain controls, 3+3yr warranty http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/x-series/products/xpa2 http://emotiva.com/resources/media/xpa2/xpa2_8ohm.pdf http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/ultra-series/products/upa1 http://www.qscaudio.com/products/amps/rmx/rmx.htm

I'm not sure what all those emoticons mean, I take it you disagree with me?

I can't argue with this. Some pro amp specs are shady.

Here is a blind test between a Behringer amp and some pricey audiophile gear. http://www.matrixhifi.com/ENG_contenedor_ppec.htm Various Pro Amps tested at the AVS Forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=855865

Pro Audio Amps Pros More bang for your buck Cons Ugly Fan noise - some modify or replace fans, the best solution is to locate the amp to a ventilated closet or another room. Input sensitivity - may require higher input voltages to reach full output power. If you're using a pro active crossover, this shouldn't be an issue. On the other hand, if you're using the preamp subwoofer output of a consumer reciever to drive a pro amp, this may be a problem. Here is some info on Gain Structure, which is useful to know when you start mixing pro and consumer gear. Lots to read here, I would suggest looking at Part 3 first. http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-receivers-processors-amps/35677-gain-structure-home-theater-getting-most-pro-audio-equipment-your-system.html

I apologize for the confusion, I read that the Emotiva UPA-1's XLR connections are not balanced, I'm not sure whether this is true or not. And yes, XLR connections are normally balanced. As was suggested, I would stay away from amps w/o gain controls for active use.

WTF? Even power amps from the 1980's have gain controls. And from what I just read, the XLR connectors aren't balanced.

You might want to read this entire article before you start buying stuff. Active Vs. Passive Crossovers http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm Exerpt: 2.2 - The Active Solution With an active crossover, the amplifier is connected directly to the driver, and the only thing between them is the loudspeaker cable. The amplifier presents the maximum damping factor at all times, regardless of frequency, and is not affected by the crossover network, since that is also active, and located before the power amp. The loudspeaker driver now has the maximum control that the amplifier can provide, across the entire frequency range - not just the crossover network's pass band. The difference in damping is quite obvious, and although some (very well behaved) drivers will show little improvement, the vast majority will be much better controlled, and this will show in an impulse measurement. Not at all uncommonly, it will also show up on a swept sinewave frequency response measurement as well, with the amplitude of peaks and dips generally reduced (albeit marginally in most cases). Well apart from the other advantages of an active system, this is perhaps one of the most compelling reasons to use an active system rather than passive. Not only is it possible to achieve the maximum damping, but if it is determined that a particular driver is best suited to some defined impedance, this can be provided by the amplifier, and will be stable across the frequency range. In some cases, just a series resistor will be sufficient, and even though there will be some power loss, if it makes the driver behave the way it should, then any small power loss is a small price to pay. In short, there is simply no comparison between the two systems. A passive XO will always add (usually) undesirable impedance to that seen by the driver(s), the impedance is frequency dependent, and ranges from perhaps an ohm or so to almost infinite. The potential for uncontrolled cone movement, intermodulation distortion and loss of performance is so great that it is impossible to determine in advance, but it is all negated in one fell swoop by using a fully active system.

DBX DriveRacks http://www.dbxpro.com/DriveRack_Family.php

PC based solutions - for those interested in DIY Open Source I haven't been keeping up with this, although there are several threads at DIY Audio. Check here if interested. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/ Closed Source http://www.thuneau.com/index.htm Frequency Allocator - 4 way Xover - USD $149 PS- If you go with the Behringer DCX2496 digital X-over, here is a multi-thousand post thread at DIY Audio. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/15943-behringer-dcx2496-digital-x-over.html

MiniDSP http://www.minidsp.com/ Starts at USD $99, software plugins are $10 Thread at AV Science Forum: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1281290 MiniDSP Forum at DIY Audio http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/minidsp/ I use 2-2x4's w/ 2.1 Advanced software in a 4-way config. One 2x4 handles Subs and HF - the other for LF and MF. Both are USB powered via rackmount PC. Total cost was $218 for the 2 kits and one plugin.

1. The following best describes www.hps4000.com: a. welcome to 1998! b. worst.ProSpeaker.website.ever. c. vomit d. @$$! e. all of the above 2. The business plan of HPS is: a. @$$! b. vomit c. @$$!-vomit d. govmnt teet e. who needs R&D, we'll just copycat Klipsch horn loaded speaker designs! f. all of the above

Do you mean the area that the red arrows are pointing at?

Nice job! I see your Budget Tweeters™, now tell us about the rest of your mods.

See page 5 section 3.6 of the attached EV 7100 manual. EV_7100_Amplifier_Manual.pdf

Thank you. Also, thanks djk and moray james. ps - if you ever open these up please post internal pics in this thread.

Thanks for taking the time to do that kg4guy. If it's not too much of a problem could you post a rearview pic? No need to disassemble anything - I just want to see the back of the cab.

That's all well and good but I'm interested in MB-2 plans at this time.

Actually, the MB-2 is 2 segments. It looks like s1 is parallel. Some measurements would be helpful - hint, hint kg4guy

Thanks djk! Those are huge, as wide as 2 FH-1 bins!

Have you ever thought of building a pair? Seems like an easy build. Maybe someone could post dimensions.

I resemble that remark! Nah, I wasn't confused, I guess I should have used one of those smilies you kids use these days... Are you looking for Mb-2's? How far are you willing to drive? There is a pair of "empty with magnets" MB-2's down here for $100. I'll be taking a drive up to Ohio in the near future to pick up an engine, I could possibly meet you somewhere on the way up. Of course, I would want to be reimbursed gas for going out of my way. My vehicle is rated at 24/27mpg. Here's a pic of the actual bins.

Those vents look bigger than 1.5"!

Now I would love to have a pair of those bass bottoms and the MB-1 horn's is this your set up ? No, the Project 1 is not mine. I had a longish story to go along with the pic, but somehow it didn't post... I'll spare you. The best way to increase low end with the FH-1 is to either stack them 4x4 or add subs Seriously though, I never run my FH-1's below 100Hz. Unless stacked, they don't have much useable below 80Hz. Heck, even the FH-2 bin from the Project 1 used the HDH Sub-which by todays standards would require another sub!